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Snowman9000

IL

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Posted: 09/25/12 06:20am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

burlmart wrote:



I am pretty sure that on ours, where the rubber roof (is it EPDM or TPO - it has never been verified to me) goes under the two horizontal seam moldings along the top of the sidewalls, there is no caulk, and none is needed.

I say none is needed as a Camping World roofing guy explainded this at a Louisiana Good Sam Samboree Tech session on (EPDM or TPO?) roofs. I think I remember this, and it made sense to me at the time he explained it.

Maybe someone other than TL put those beads of caulk . Maybe you can ignore them and not risk a roof membrane tear.


Burl, I thought it was EDPM but your question made me look again to be sure. Turns out it is TPO, I had their characteristics mixed up. I will edit my earlier post! This would point me to the Dicor product, then.

Here is a quick article on the differences

(I think Markopolo, who once had a TL and posted here about it, is named Mark Polk. Wonder if he is the author?)

I don't buy the CW guy's take on it. For one thing, there are screws holding the molding in place. Any water getting behind the molding can get into the body via those screws and cause delam.

I don't know, but mine sure looks to be factory applied. It's part of every seam construction from the fender flares to the rear cap components, to over the windows and the roof side moldings. The beads of caulk are pretty slim, though.

Citrus cleaner/degreaser does a decent job of getting the stuff off, but it is not to be used on the roof.


2014 Sunseeker 2300 Class C (Chevy 4500)


burlmart

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Posted: 09/25/12 08:19am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I cannot remember for sure if anyone here has definitively told me TPO or EPDM, but some brochure and maybe some 'most like;y's' did point to TPO.

I am gonna go look at that roof seam.


2005 Trail Lite 213 B-Plus w/ 6.0 Chevy


burlmart

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Posted: 09/25/12 08:36am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I guess there is a thin bead of something semi-translucent along the roof seam after all - my eyes ain't so good, even with a magnifying glass.

When I first went up there w/ Dicor years back, I convinced myself there was no caulk on the roof seams and never put any except near the front and rear cap ends.

Snowman9000

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Posted: 09/25/12 09:01am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I called Dicor. The woman said their lap sealant will stick to most anything but silicone. I think I'm going to lay a bead on top of what is already there and see how it goes. I'll clean the existing bead first though.

I'll keep an eye on the Dicor and if it fails because of the stuff underneath, I'll deal with it then. The way it would fail would be because of not being "necked down" as they call it, down into the seam.

Snowman9000

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Posted: 09/25/12 10:50am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I decided to test how easily the caulk would come out. It comes out pretty well, so I removed the driver's side caulk in about an hour.

I blunted the tip of a new blade in my utility knife, and drew it along the molding side of the caulk, being careful not to go to the bottom or hit the roofing. At first I only did an inch or two at a time to make sure of how deep I was running the knife. But after a while I was taking two foot runs.

Just one cut along the molding, then pull up the end and it comes right out. There were thin remnants but they practically wipe off by either back-dragging the knife blade over them, or using another blade type tool like a putty knife. I dampened a rag with WD40 to wipe it down. It's not good for roofs but then nothing is. I made sure to wipe it off right away.

There is putty tape under the molding and it appears to be in fine condition. I don't think the awning side will be as fine, because there is already one gap visible before I start. So I could have ignored the driver side, possibly. But I have had an RV that needed structural repairs due to leaks, so I'm pretty finicky about caulking.

I thought I had seen the non-sag Dicor on the shelves of my area RV dealers, but I called them and came up empty. One of them suggested silicone, and one suggested another sealant that doesn't stick to TPO (when I looked it up). Dealers, jeesh. So I have to order the caulk. Good thing the putty tape is in good shape.

Bottom line, it's worth checking to see if you have any suspect areas. Beyond that, your mileage may vary.

Snowman9000

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Posted: 09/26/12 04:23pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Another TL question.

Does your radio work on the ACC key position?
What brand of radio came installed?

Mine only works on the IGN key position.

I cannot find anything in the fuse box under the drivers seat which becomes hot in the ACC position. I can find one that is always hot, no problem. But I don't think I want that for the radio either. I'll search the interwebs for an ACC source for radios in the GM vans.

* This post was last edited 09/28/12 12:03pm by Snowman9000 *   View edit history

burlmart

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Posted: 09/27/12 06:40am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Second click of ignition key, I yhink. Our radio has a funny German name I don't remember - a friend said it was a hi quality company.

Snowman9000

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Posted: 09/27/12 08:36am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Second click would be the IGN position.
Funny German name would be Blaupunkt.

Same as mine, then. You'd think in an RV they would have enough sense to provide a way to listen to the radio without having the actual engine ignition on.

gkreutzer

Aspen, CO 81611

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Posted: 09/27/12 11:56am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Same here, Blaupunkt stereo on ignition position only. Always has been a bone of contention for me.


2003 Trail-Lite 211 B-Plus LE
Chev. 6.0L Vortex

It's more than a motorhome,
It's a car I can go to the bathroom in.
– Homer Simpson


burlmart

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Posted: 09/27/12 01:51pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I refuse to use it in this mode as the improper wiring that likely exists will surely create a short in some part of the GM system requiring a huge stealership expense (and ultimate phantom never solved problem). Too bad, the CD and house speakers are kick-a$$ good!

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