Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Search
Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  



Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by '2112' found 311 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 16  
Prev  |  Next
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Why won’t my Champion C46540 generator run the microwave?

... partial credit for the nice diagram though Thanks I missed one orange line and didn't bother correcting it. I left a switch blowing in the breeze. I got the point across without it
2112 01/05/22 04:38pm Tech Issues
RE: Why won’t my Champion C46540 generator run the microwave?

...... ...... You can get a regulated 120V 3500W using the TT30A connector, but ......Your close, but not quite correct. When the switch is set to 120V only, both 120V windings are connected in parallel. This means that not only all of the 3500W is available on the 30A RV outlet but the voltage of both windings are fully regulated by the AVR.First sentence of last paragraph covered that. Maybe it wasn't clear enough? Do I get partial credit for using less words?
2112 01/05/22 01:38pm Tech Issues
RE: Why won’t my Champion C46540 generator run the microwave?

I performed one more test before I switched back over. I replaced the 600W pot (590 something measured) with a 1140W measured space heater on L2. MW & Heater ON, L2-122.4V 59.2Hz I didn't bother measuring L1
2112 01/05/22 11:17am Tech Issues
RE: Why won’t my Champion C46540 generator run the microwave?

I decided to connect my generator to the house and simulate what OP is describing. Mine is a model 64514, similar to his. What I found really doesn't surprise me, but good to know, and not good. With typical loads: fridge, TV, satellite receiver, satellite internet modem and router, charging 1 phone and 1 laptop. All measurements using Kill A Watt P3 L1-123.4V L2-120.6V 60.6Hz 1200W Microwave on L1, 600W coffee pot on L2. NOTE: MW is specified as 1200 working watts. The P3 flashes 1700 during operation, indicating the actual load is greater than the P3 1500W rating. However, 8oz of water was placed in the MW. MW was operated for 30sec during each test and operated as expected. The water warmed up each time. Coffee pot ON, L1-123.4V, L2-117.8V 60.3Hz MW & pot ON, L1-120.6V, L2-126.5V 59.8Hz Now here's the kicker Just MW ON, L1-120.6V, L2-133.2V 60.4Hz With a heavy load on L1 and little load on L2, L2 goes over 130V End of Test Yea, I'm bored
2112 01/05/22 11:01am Tech Issues
RE: Good battery for Boondocking Palomino Puma 19RL

Replace your box with something like THIS and use two 6V GC2 batteries. Get a short cable like THIS to connect the two batteries together in series
2112 01/05/22 09:15am Travel Trailers
RE: Why won’t my Champion C46540 generator run the microwave?

Let's look under the hood to see how this generator works: Here: a color illustrated schematic of your generator https://i.imgur.com/CBCzRKbl.png Notice MW1 and MW2 in the red square boxes. These are your two windings that output your 120V. Each has a maximum of 14.6A (1750W) Notice the switches, up is green and down is orange. This is the 120V/240V switch you move to select which outlets have power. Notice the blue square at the bottom of MW1. This is where the AVR samples a portion of MW1 voltage. This is all the AVR knows, the voltage of MW1. Now, when your switch is on 240V you are using the green and purple wires on the L14-30R connector. They are common to the black wire. MW1 120V is at the purple and black wires, MW2 120V is at the green and black wires. 240V is at the green and purple wires. 240V at 14.6A is 3500W. I believe your microwave is being powered from the green and black wires, MW2. This is an unregulated 120V 14.6A (1750W) leg. The AVR is looking at the purple and black wires, MW1, so he's clueless to your microwave's existence. This is one flaw of this design. Let's look at the 120V side. When you move your selector switch to the 120V position you are now using the orange wires powering the TT30R connector. This places the two windings MW1 and MW2 in parallel. Two 120V 14.6A windings in parallel will provide you 120V 29.2A, or 3500W. You can get a regulated 120V 3500W using the TT30A connector, but the L14-30R is limited to 1750W regulated on MW1 and unregulated 1750W on MW2. This doesn't matter if you are powering only 240V devices. The AVR sees that. The problem occurs when you split them as you did. You're not the 1st one to stumble onto this issue, and you won't be the last. I hope this helps
2112 01/05/22 07:13am Tech Issues
RE: Why won’t my Champion C46540 generator run the microwave?

Before i got a 240V generator, I connected my 30A 120V generator to my panel by connecting hot to the L1 lug on the panel, neutral to the neutral bus and ground to the ground bus. Then I turned ALL 240V breakers OFF. After that I jumped a 10AWG wire from L1 to L2. This powered everything 120V. Disclaimer: I did not say do this, I did not recommend doing this, I do not advise doing this. I'm just saying I did it.
2112 01/05/22 04:07am Tech Issues
RE: Why won’t my Champion C46540 generator run the microwave?

You should have 4 wires running from your generator to your panel. I'm going to guess at the colors, L1-black, L2-red, neutral-white, ground-bare. The AVR regulates L1. My guess if your microwave is on L2. Swap the red and black wires at the panel. This will put the microwave on L1. The problem is this will move other loads, maybe the coffee pot to L2. The coffee pot is a lower resistive load so it should have less affect on L2.
2112 01/05/22 03:56am Tech Issues
RE: Why won’t my Champion C46540 generator run the microwave?

Is this a model C46540?
2112 01/04/22 07:38pm Tech Issues
RE: Why won’t my Champion C46540 generator run the microwave?

Also consider many split single phase generators have the AVR on only 1 phase. If you are loading up the non regulated side the voltage would certainly drop.
2112 01/04/22 07:30pm Tech Issues
RE: Why won’t my Champion C46540 generator run the microwave?

That's an old generator. The generator total harmonic distortion (THD) many be too high or the output voltage may be too low. If may be time to replace the brushes. Does the microwave have a loud hum when running?
2112 01/04/22 06:07pm Tech Issues
RE: Converter failed

lithium converter Did you become a senior member by doing internet searches for people? If you could stop posting on my threads, that'd be greatWOW No, 2oldman became a senior member by answering questions like yours for 20 YEARS. No need to disrespect anyone here. And don't worry, I won't be posting on your threads either.
2112 01/02/22 07:38am General RVing Issues
RE: Honda Eu2000 valve job/repair

My take away: Why spend $240 for an old broken generator that you don't know you can repair? Then, put in all that labor with the possibility of needing expensive parts. Why not spend $500 on a different brand and get a brand new generator?Considering his knowledge and tools on hand it wouldn't be unreasonable to conclude this is his livelihood. He would know a replacement inverter module retails for $700. The stator is $150. Many other donor parts as well.
2112 12/31/21 11:07am Tech Issues
RE: Honda Eu2000 valve job/repair

Sitting here thinking about this video over my morning coffee I had to ask why a 6 yr old generator had so much carbon build-up to begin with. I concluded it ran cheap gas at idle on a job site for long periods of time. My guess is the owner never put much load on it and allowed it to idle on eco mode all day. The real take away on this is to occasionally load up your generator to keep if healthy.
2112 12/31/21 07:53am Tech Issues
RE: Honda Eu2000 valve job/repair

Very informative. I wonder if a good ATF soak for a few days would have helped? I would have tried that after the leakdown and realized the head wasn't removable.
2112 12/31/21 06:00am Tech Issues
RE: Retiring from the RV world

Someone like myself, coming from the camper world looking to get into an A, buying the complete package would be a big plus. I know nothing about setting up a toad, nor do I own one. Turnkey is good. As far as everything in the basement, don't look a gift-horse in the mouth. If it's something I couldn't use I'd pass it on.
2112 12/30/21 10:41am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Pandemic in Mexico V USA

My observation is I live between two worlds here in Texas. We live between two communities. 15 miles one way is a rural, blue collar community that lives like COVID doesn't exist. No masks to be seen in the HEB or restaurants there. 20 miles the other direction is a somewhat larger, wealthier community with a Krogers. Krogers takes all the precautions such as sanitizing carts and requesting masks worn. They can't require it. Masks are the norm in that community.
2112 12/29/21 11:56am RVing in Mexico and South America
RE: How do I relocate my outside compartment Cable connection

I had to put an extension on mine was well. A short cable with an F-Type barrel connector on the end.
2112 12/28/21 07:42am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Advice on replacing my IOTA battery charger for boondocking

BFL13, I just checked. The input wattage on the 60 amp PD is 1000 watts. That will not make a 2000VA generator run flat out.Add 30% PF for 1300 apparent power and you are very close to the Honda 2000 rated output of 1600 VA.The advantage of this is when OP hears his generator starting to slow down he knows he's charged. Putting a positive spin on it
2112 12/27/21 08:52pm Tech Issues
RE: Advice on replacing my IOTA battery charger for boondocking

Considering battery longevity, does OP want to charge his two 6V 220Ah Costco batteries at 60A? That's over 20%c. Going that high occasionally wouldn't be a concern but should that be his SOP? Need to weigh generator run time vs battery longevity? At 13.6 volts that's not really going to matter much. What is recommended is .125 C. With 220 amp-hours that works out to 27.5 amps. Above 85% state of charge, if the voltage is higher than needed, the battery will gas.The PD bulk voltage is 14.4V whereas the Iota is 14.75V. This is why I don't like my DLS-35, it bulks too high for my 100Ah DC29. Just something for OP to consider
2112 12/27/21 08:45pm Tech Issues
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 16  
Prev  |  Next


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:




© 2022 CWI, Inc. © 2022 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved.