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 > Your search for posts made by 'BenK' found 469 matches.

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RE: The TFL guys bought a 7.3L

Never ending argument and you folks will have even more to argue over very soon... Compression ignition gassers are here for cars...and think soon for our trucks Diesel will still rule, but the MPG differential is much less I've never owned a vehicle based in part due to resale value. Get my money's worth and sell it when don't want to or can't fix it anyone. Most happy not having payments, but do make payments into a bank account for my next vehicle
BenK 01/17/20 06:38am Tow Vehicles
RE: Coast on the uphills accelerate on the downhills

Your latest info says to me, that air flow is the main issue. Highway will have much more air flow than stop and go...where the fan is the key to keeping air flow up there Even if you have an El Cheapo radiator, running with just the driver, it should not behave like that...heating up in stop n go, as you still have the external aux ATF cooler Since a 2500, EVERYTHING is sized for HD usage. Thermal abilities are one of the main attributes making your truck a HD towing vehicle. The margins (head room) are there to absorb that kind of short term usage needing more HP in spurts (acceleration from a stop) Hope that is all there is, but you never know until the situation is completely fixed.
BenK 01/15/20 10:53am Towing
RE: Tesla Semi truck unveil & test ride set for Oct 26th !

Regenerative braking is only as good as the amount of battery capacity and its rate of absorption Meaning, any battery has an absorption rate in voltage/amperes. You can tell the controller to dump more regenerative power, but the battery will NOT take much more without heating up FAST and shortening it's life span If you do have the large enough of a battery array, then the rate of power dumped into them is spread over many, many batteries so that it can brake harder Below some rate, mechanical brakes are a must Look up rail dust from trains
BenK 01/14/20 11:48am Tow Vehicles
RE: Ford Increases GVWR for 2020 Trucks

Up to a point...this is eating into their design margins and the cost is in longevity and service costs
BenK 01/14/20 11:44am Tow Vehicles
RE: Coast on the uphills accelerate on the downhills

SweetLou is correct, but mainly for a forced fed ICE. Meaning the pedal (diesel's do NOT have a throttle plate) can force more than the listed displacement specification. A 6.7L can become a 8L/10L/etc...until it produces so many BTU's via more fuel injected, that the surface area of the thermal rejection system can NOT move those extra BTU's away fast enough to whatever rejection system component it has...that the metal will raise to glow, then melt On a N/A ICE, it can ingest a bit over the displacement specification via inertia ramming...AKA scavenging effect There are many other attributes that contribute to the BTU development of an ICE, but the above are the basic's If you wish to delve deeper into this area, here are the 2012 GM 6.0L L29 torque/HP curves just found for this discussion. They are from the GMPowerTrain site. Mechanically, these L96's are the same. The main difference is in the state of tune. There would be differences in the thermal rejection components and sub-systems This is for half ton pickups with L96 6.0L width=680 This for HD pickups with L96 6.0L width=680 This for 2500 Suburban with L96 6.0L. width=680 This is for Express/Savanna 2500/3500 full sized vans with L96 6.0L width=680 As a general rule of thumb, the best MPG while towing heavy is to choose an RPM just below to at peak torque. Going over that RPM will gain HP (torque x RPM / 5252), but cost MPG's and produce more BTU's Figure what HP you desire to tow heavy at and then choose the gear that keeps your 6.0L in that range
BenK 01/14/20 11:33am Towing
RE: Chevy 8.1 truck with low miles?

Not apples to apples There is a current reason why there are no tiny displacement ICE'S forced fed big block volumes of air in higher class trucks It is not just HP for TV'S...especially towing heavy. There is a thing called duty cycle...
BenK 01/12/20 10:54am Tow Vehicles
RE: Coast on the uphills accelerate on the downhills

BenK maybe on to something with that engine radiator. I installed this in my 2007 3500 with the 4L80E transmission, The factory transmission coolers on the 4L80E were marginal at best. GeoBoy, that is one of the best types of low PSI, stacked plate radiators out there. Best if the connections between each plate is brazed together and think this vendor does so width=640 Those which have gaskets, tend to leak over time. More so in dynamic applications with vibration. Solved by brazing the plates together with past filled with brass & heated to fuse them together...they even had upset areas on the plates that touched the other plate to lessen ballooning of flat surfaces in higher PSI applications OEM stacked plate types are good, but not as good as this type of stacked plate (flattened round tubing) I'm of the opinion to have as much external aux ATF cooler as you can stuff in. Main caveat is that the ATF must also be plumbed into the engine radiator and in extreme cold, a by-pass to remove the external aux cooler 'Was' going to install a larger external, aux ATF when still owned the 8.5K lb boat + trailer and my 7.4L continued to get hotter and hotter while towing. Until it also heated up just commuting to work (32 mile one way, Silicon Valley can get really hot during the summer and fall), which meant something else was wrong Installed a severe duty fan clutch thinking it was going bad. Instantly cooled it down for a while, but then it started to get too hot again. Turned out to be plugged radiator from DeathCool (Dexcool and coined it because almost lost the 7.4L). Had the OEM radiator rebuilt (new plastic tanks and rod'ed out the core). Still have the modified 180*F thermostat in there...think it's #3 Then never needed the bigger external aux ATF cooler. Will do so when I rebuild the 1996 Suburban. As the 7.4L will be 'built' and other goodies that will increase the BTU's to be rejected
BenK 01/11/20 05:15pm Towing
RE: "Death Wobble"

So what brand has the most Death Wobble? chevman OK Alliance, World’s Largest Shopping Cart Maker About half of the shopping carts at my local supermarket has this death wobble... :B
BenK 01/10/20 07:26pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Coast on the uphills accelerate on the downhills

Lazy, so just poked around the internet and found an image of the radiator cap off and looking into the radiator cold tank. That is the ATF radiator El Cheapo would have a tube instead of a finned radiator in there This one is the 5 fin for a small block automatic tranny "border=0" For Full-Size Image.
BenK 01/10/20 11:28am Towing
RE: Coast on the uphills accelerate on the downhills

Maybe Grit isn't as young as me too, flex fans were the coolest invention of that time. Almost put a SS flex in on my 1973 K5 Blazer, but never got around to it. It's still in the garage somewhere... As for lock up. My 1996 4L80E locks up in 3rd and also around 200-300 RPM drop when it does lock Difference is that mine is direct linkage to the throttle and yours fly by wire. So there is more of a lag flying by wire and checking requires eyeballs to stay on the tack a bit longer than mine Also, fly by wire has the ECU 'think' a bit longer before it does whatever you told it to do...especially dealing with power mode...nailing the throttle to the floor will have it think a bit...check the sensors to make sure it is okay. Mine is NOW, unless it is already in a lower power mode My 4L80E, manually in 1st will shift up a gear by itself once it approaches red line. Marty dislikes the 400/4L80E, as they failed on him. Think his diff ratio the culprit, as 1st is not low enough (2.48) helped by the TC coupling losses & torque multiplication Mine is 4.1's and going to 5.38's or whatever can find that has a front diff gear set to go with the rear gear set Back to the OP, think he has the 4L85E. IIRC GM had the gears nitrided (hardened) and heavier duty clutches. Maybe some other goodies, but don't remember what else Ask the OP if he has the work order, etc sheets listing what they did to 'fix' the radiator leak. Patrick is spot on for some 'El Cheapo' shops who will put in that kind of radiator. Fine for light driving, but anything demanding higher BTU rejection will over heat OP, look into your radiator cap opening (assume you can, somewhere all the OEM's went away from that and had a pressurized over flow bottle). There should be an ATF radiator inside the cold tank of your main radiator. Small block had a 5 fin and big block had a 7 fin radiator. I'll find time to dig into my image file system (Photobucket screwed my posting system/files and have to go back to the HDD in the safe). If you have that tube Patrick talked about, have it changed. Heard about them, but never eyeballed one Agree with Grit...most likely you, the OP, has a few issues stacked up on top of each other due to several things 'fixed'. Again, suggest going to the least costly and IMHO, that is the fan clutch. Get the severe duty and change the serpentine belt & idler while at it Good luck and please post updates as it goes
BenK 01/10/20 11:11am Towing
RE: Chevy 8.1 truck with low miles?

Thank you Grit, spot on...add that there some of us who just won't (whether can or cannot afford) pay the kind of pricing for new/newer and are just fine with something older Looking like around $10K, plus whatever the cost of the 'built' 7.4L will be. Know many of the newer rigs has more HP, whop my 7.4L (just barely), but I'd rather spend less on something that fits me like an old shoe (yes, I do resole most of my shoes that can be) Whatever makes 'you' happy...go for it ! I know what "I" want... "border=0" For Full-Size Image.
BenK 01/09/20 03:38pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Coast on the uphills accelerate on the downhills

To the PM asking why I didn't talk about a radiator going bad, as it also has these symptoms... Yes, but the OP somewhere in earlier posts on this thread said it had a radiator leak and had it fixed So, assumed it was done correctly (assumptions are dangerous, but the OP said had it fixed). Also assumed either new radiator or the old radiator fixed (re-tanked, rod'ed out, etc...another assumption). That means it is or should not be the radiator Hope they didn't just toss in a bottle of stop leak, one of the worst things you can do involving Deathcool (, or red coolant...AKA OAT's, Organic Acid Technology). It will react to form acidic globs that then stick to cooler surfaces (like inside the radiator, which will block flow and acidic means eat/rot the radiator from the inside Curious why folks are harping on this small block's RPM while towing. The 4L80E is an 'automatic' and just leave it to it's computer to manage it. The manual does say to tow in 3rd, not OD. IF the OP is towing in OD, then the tranny will hunt and over work the gear sets Gears get hot while working at or near it's design limits. The why differential gears get hot and there isn't a TC in there. Any gearbox will get hot and hotter as you approach design limits. Ditto in an automatic and toss in the hydraulic coupling losses of a automatic will get hotter than a manual, everything else the same Of course, Grit and the others who think the 4L80E is failing could also be right, but the OP hasn't provided any info that would point to that. My guess is the fan clutch and is the lowest cost component fix at the moment based on the OP's info posted
BenK 01/09/20 02:07pm Towing
RE: Coast on the uphills accelerate on the downhills

I'm older than most likely experienced more fan clutches than the kid.... ;) Fan clutch failures generally start to couple less and less water pump shaft RPM's...till they almost free wheel Since a failing unit still couples, there is enough air being pulled to take care of low the demand for more air goes can not a accommodate...therefore the coolant can not reject enough BTU's and the engine heats up Lowest cost component or system first, else tossing money away....till you get to that lower cost thing...
BenK 01/08/20 12:31pm Towing
RE: Coast on the uphills accelerate on the downhills

PPS...while changing fan clutch, change out both the serpentine belt & idler
BenK 01/07/20 09:23pm Towing
RE: Coast on the uphills accelerate on the downhills

What you experienced is a classic fan clutch going bad symptom. It will run just fine...until it needs more CFM On that, the thermal system is designed to run at a preset temp range (thermostat, fan cutch, etc). As you demand more cooling...AKA towing, hauling, going up an incline, speeding up, etc...the cooling system will increase until al of their component/sub-systems reach their max performance capacity...then the temp will raise until the temp reaches preset safety temp points Then the ECU will drop off of power mode and start to go into ever lower limp modes...if you would have experienced it going into limp modes, until it would only allow crawling OEM fan clutches couple water pump shaft RPMs around 40%-50%. HD and SD couples around 80%-90% or more water pump shaft RPM’s. The main diff between HD & SD is in the bearings, shaft clip, keep it from taking off like an airplane into the radiator It is about time anyway. Fan clutches d wear out. F you go with a new one...suggest only getting a severe duty ROAR will be significant, so beware and don’t get startled...a very good thing to have almost twice the CFM of an OEM fan clutch... I like TRW fan clutches and hope they haven’t gone bean counter management of decreasing quality for a few more bucks profit... Almost forgot...let the new fan clutch sit over 24 hours with the nose “UP”...has to do with settling the coupling fluid internal to the clutch (Edit)....dash temp gauge drops like a rock once my fan clutch kicks in
BenK 01/07/20 09:00pm Towing
RE: Coast on the uphills accelerate on the downhills

The Lowest cost and easiest things to look for before taking on larger/expensive items Thermostat might be sticking, coolant might need to be flushed ( and when it needs to be goes south fast), fan clutch (and if so, there are three levels...OEM, HD and Severe Duty...get the SD) and as noted by others, check the radiators for debris (all three, main ENG coolant, AC and AFT. Also, the ATF might be in need of a flush, but if it has been neglected...the fresh fluid might loosen up some varnish to ruin the tranny. So take our time checking into that area {edit} NOT open the radiator cap to check coolant fluid level. Use the over flow bottle. It is translucent and check the level there. Air (O2) and Deathcool do NOT mix well
BenK 01/07/20 03:33pm Towing
RE: Chevy 8.1 truck with low miles? "border=0" For Full-Size Image.
BenK 01/06/20 06:52pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Ford is interested in 4 wheel steering

'Crab' is when the rears and fronts steer at the same angle...called 'pro' 'Con' is when the rears go the opposite steering angle
BenK 01/06/20 06:16pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Chevy 8.1 truck with low miles?

^^^^...yes Grit has it and add that they didn't have the gearing available as does everything today Approx 410 ft/lbs at about 1,300 RPM. Flat till about 3,200 RPM and drops off a cliff at about 3.6K RPM Too high a 1st (low numeric), nor double OD They have the torque and torque curve to get higher MPG with a double OD My 7.4L big block with 4.1's used to get 12.X MPG on the highway and occasionally (often enough to claim it) got 15MPG. Not empty, but with the volleyball tournament team going from the SF Bayarea to Vegas (8 folks, from my 6'4" guy to the 4'10" gal...8 gym bags, team bag, ball bag, 2-3 ice chests, etc...includes my ~200 lb toolbox) Beat the snot out if it and am down to a consistent 10MPG {edit} The 8.1L has about 40 ft/lbs more than my 7.4L and red lines over 4k RPMs, while my 7.4L red lines around 3.8K RPMs
BenK 01/06/20 06:11pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Ford is interested in 4 wheel steering

From the control & design side, it is NOT the upside of things but the Mr Murphy side of things that is the driver of decisions...along with the fine print/labels/read-me-first/etc that then CYA's the team and company On the highway speeds...having the rear axle computer have a brain fart can kill the vehicle's occupants and neighboring vehicle occupants. Shall it go 'con' or 'pro' or even be on...then how much angular steering at those speeds where at slow speeds the higher angles would be fine Slow speed, like the parallel parking option that many have now, it is okay as the potential to do harm is way less As for older rear steering axles, they didn't have the level of computer power and sensors we do today. Even at that, there is a question whether there is enough (think autonomous and how it is doing today)
BenK 01/06/20 11:57am Tow Vehicles
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