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 > Your search for posts made by 'Blacklane' found 8 matches.

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RE: Dometic refrigerator

By the way, if the clip does not stay on the fin, you can tighten it with a Clam Clip, binder clip, paper clip, or any number of products found in office supply stores.
Blacklane 07/19/20 07:26pm Tech Issues
RE: digital temperature controller

My Dometic DM2652 refrigerator came from the factory with a small 12V fan and a snap disk temperature switch. I never checked to see what the values were. I would also look into one of the many kits available that have the fans, brackets, temperature switches, etc. for a reasonable price. Some are two-stage, multiple fans, etc. One source: https://rvcoolingunit.com/Dometic-add-on-Frame-Fan-bracket-kit-2-fans-thermostat-wiring--P3261872.aspx
Blacklane 06/22/20 08:58pm Tech Issues
RE: Ventline Stove Hood Fan Blades

RV Net Link I posted this several years ago. It might give you some ideas.
Blacklane 06/20/20 02:18pm Tech Issues
RE: RV dining table leg for bed posistion

That is a really nice solution, but honestly, I have never seen this kind of short table mount.
Blacklane 05/20/20 07:09pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
Lagun Table Mount

For years, I had been trying to think of a way to add some counter space to my RV in the space where a slideout passes the cabinet. There was almost a foot of wasted space there. I had considered some type of drop-down shelf or removeable shelf, but I worried that some day the slide would be retracted with the shelf in place and damage the shelf. I finally discovered the Lagun table mount. This device has an adjustable arm that can swing and lock in any position plus is adjustable in height. It is rated for 50 lbs, which is way more than I need for my project. The plan was to mount it to the slideout structure where it couldn’t get damaged, yet have it reach out to hold a table. When underway, it could be securely stowed over the couch. The results were far better than expected. The table can indeed act as a countertop with the slide extended and can be locked in an out-of-the-way position with the slide retracted. However, we also discovered that it can be lowered and swung across the couch for a handy work surface or eating area. The first step was to find a way to mount the thing. After removing the slideout trim, I made a two-part mounting block. There could be nothing protruding through the slide-out flange, so I installed two stainless T-nuts behind the flange. That way I could install the mounting block using two machine screws on the flange side. I had to shorten the machine screws a bit to ensure they did not protrude. On the beefier frame side, I used two lag screws into the frame. I then installed a second block of the same size that contained four 5/16” T-nuts on the back to hold the table mount. Those two blocks provide the clearance I needed from the wall to swing the table. Since my slide-out goes over a wheel well, there was a chance that, if the table leg was lowered when the slideout was extended, the bottom of the leg could catch the wheel well. To prevent that, I made the blocks just long enough to clear the wheel well and added a stop block to the bottom of the mounting blocks. The Lagun table mounting plate was too big for my table and space, so I cut two inches off of one end. By mounting the plate toward one end of the table, it added even more flexibility to positioning the table. Since my table is natural wood, I slotted all of the holes to allow for cross-grain expansion. This would not be necessary if using plywood or composite board. Making the table was another project. I wanted to try to make an epoxy river table, so this was a chance to practice on a small scale. It also turned out far better than I expected. https://i.imgur.com/bF9GMnSl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/5ARw0Njl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/uoDtqzil.jpg https://i.imgur.com/4SrA3JHl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/66fXyeUl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/VeofLvNl.jpg https://i.imgur.com/YbnGuhNl.jpg
Blacklane 05/18/20 07:53pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Frost free hydrant for potable water

If you’re going to install a hydrant, I highly recommend a Murdock hydrant. Those are commercial-grade, reliable, and repairable. They’re also expensive. If that doesn’t fit into your budget, then the Woodford is a distant second place, but way better than whatever you will find in the big box stores. Since I put them in in 2002, both of my original hydrants have failed. The first failed to seal, even with a re-build kit. Of course, you have to get that repaired before winter, so I just installed another one from a home center. Now I regret that. On the second hydrant, the rod broke off at the bottom where it meets the stopper. There was no way to get the stopper out to replace it. I replaced that with a Woodford, which seems much better. Replacing a hydrant is not fun. You think, “Oh, It’s only 3 feet deep. I can handle that.” But then you discover that the hole has to be big enough to get into so you can hold the bottom joint, or roughly the size of a grave Then that may be below the water table, so you’re into sticky, heavy clay mud. Plus, you try to leave a step to stand and kneel on, so you have to work below your knees, in a hole, in the mud. Most hydrants offer an “EPA” or "Sanitary" version. This keeps ground water out of the hydrant drain, since in a regular frost-free hydrant, the drain is open to the ground water. This is what you want for potable water.
Blacklane 05/15/20 08:03pm Tech Issues
RE: Hard start capacitor

My Coleman Mach air conditioner came with a hard-start capacitor already installed. I replaced it with a soft-starter with good results. I can run my air conditioner using a modest generator, but I rarely do. It also reduced the clunking sound when the compressor first starts, which is nice. The two technologies are totally different. The hard-start capacitor stores electrical energy which it then releases into the compressor start winding on start-up. The soft-starters, such as Easy Start, work by limiting the current to the main (run) winding during start-up and allowing the current to ramp-up over a quarter of a second or so. The result is far less in-rush current and a smooth start. As stated, there is much more posted here if you do a search for it.
Blacklane 05/12/20 03:24pm Tech Issues
RE: Differential fluid change

Another vote for no gasket. On a previous truck, I installed a gasket instead of sealant. Years later during a hard tow, the gasket failed and a lot of fluid was lost, coating the hitch, where it was evident. It turned out that all of the bolts were loose. Since I know they were torqued properly and to specs, I think the paper gasket softened and compressed over time, reducing the pressure on the bolts. I tightened the bolts, added a lot more fluid and continued the trip, but a few months later the differential was shot and had to be rebuilt. That problem never happens to people who use sealant.
Blacklane 04/28/20 08:25pm Tow Vehicles
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