| |
Subject |
Author |
Date Posted |
Forum
|
 |
RE: door lock won't open
Ack, no! Oil in a lock cylinder works temporarily but is a long term kiss of death. It attracts and traps dust which kills the lock in short order.
Locks should only ever be lubed with dry graphite.
Totally true on a properly functioning lock with no issues. I agree 100%
However, on a lock that will not open, and the intent is to get it to open one last time so it can be removed for replacement without destroying it, I would opt for thin penetrating oil to try to free it up. In this instance, thin oil will be a better choice.
If the OP can just get it to open, he won't have to drill it out and make a mess to remove the non functioning lock.
And yes, to all others, haul out the graphite! :)
|
BobsYourUncle
|
08/10/20 07:38pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: door lock won't open
As mentioned above try lubing it, squirt oil in the key slot. Use a light oil, even penetrating oil.
In addition to that try running the key in and out multiple times. It's possible that it could be gummed up in there and one of the pins is sticking.
Also, after oiling it, try tapping on the key cylinder with a small hammer or similar. This may dislodge a stuck pin if that's the problem.
Tap tap,tap, insert key multiple times tap tap tap, key in and out again.
Then try turning it. One stuck cylinder pin will prevent it from turning.
Fortunately, these door handles and lock systems are widely universal. Should be no problem finding a replacement if needed. Yours will likely fit my TT and the neighbors MH and everyone elses too.
|
BobsYourUncle
|
08/09/20 08:36pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Need input into newer GM D/A dually trucks
The Duramax used thru 2016 was the LML. In 2017 they started with a new Duramax called the L5P. The L5P uses a Denso fuel system instead of a Bosch system. The old Bosch CP4 injection pump had a bad reputation for failures on both Chevy and Ford diesels. When the pump went out it generally took the rest of the fuel system with it. I would much prefer a 2017 or newer with the Denso pump. The L5P also gained 80 hp and 250 lb ft.
I am also astounded at the kind of money people pay for trucks. I've been shopping for a new work truck myself as my 2005 that I bought new now has 270,000 miles on it. Mine is still doing quite well but I know I'll need a new one before long.
When I build a crew cab diesel dually cab and chassis truck with 4wd exactly like I want it the sticker is about $56,000. The price from the dealer is around $49,000. When I look at used trucks the majority of them 5 years old or so are going for more than I can buy a new one for. I can't for the life of me figure out what you add to a truck that's worth an extra $30,000 over what I'm specifying.
That's good to know about the pump, thanks. Good information. I had to put a pump on mine at around 300,000K. Expensive...
The price difference Canada vs US is a lot. I built one last year similar to mine, a few more options but not everything and it was 84G Cdn. Hard to justify.
Boggles my mind the price of used trucks.
|
BobsYourUncle
|
08/02/20 08:07am |
Tow Vehicles
|
|
RE: Need input into newer GM D/A dually trucks
40,000+ snip
No, snip
Think he meant the new one. 4 years old and 160K kilometer's, which is, 40K klick's per year. I think he was thinking 160,000 miles per year.
That's only approx 24,000 miles, so not horrible. Little high. Probably still used for hauling.
Mike
Ah yes! Now I get it - Lol! I have to agree with you, thanks. Not enough coffee yet today! :)
|
BobsYourUncle
|
08/02/20 07:47am |
Tow Vehicles
|
|
RE: Need input into newer GM D/A dually trucks
40,000+ miles a year? Sounds like it was used for hauling.
No, 14 years as of the 15th of this month and 403458K on it, or 250,697 miles.
That's 28,818 K per year, or 17,906 miles per year.
It has been my work truck since I bought it new Aug 15, 2006. Never used for hauling.
|
BobsYourUncle
|
08/02/20 07:21am |
Tow Vehicles
|
|
Need input into newer GM D/A dually trucks
I am considering replacing my truck, it is getting old with over 403,000 K on the odometer. Reliability is waning a bit, stuff starting to break. (Truck in sig)
A lot of people say keep and fix it, as the LBZ was the best. But a vehicle gets to a point where things just start wearing out.
My old beast has been good, but 14 years as a dedicated work truck has taken its toll, even though I try to take care of it.
Are there any inherent problems with later model GM Duramax/Allison trucks? Any ones in the 2016 - 18 range I should be wary of? Any to stay away from?
I know the DEF system is a pain in the rear, but what about other issues?
I found a nice clean 2016 3500 D/A dually, loaded. 160,000 K on the odometer. I haven't contacted the seller yet, want to do my homework first. It is half the price of a new truck. 48G sticker.
Still astounds my how much used trucks go for....:E
Thanks. :)
|
BobsYourUncle
|
08/02/20 06:59am |
Tow Vehicles
|
|
RE: Checking on Wheel Bearing Heat
Another vote for the temp gun.
I carry one at all times.
So simple to point the laser beam at the hubs and read the screen. I use it on tires too, including my inner dually.
|
BobsYourUncle
|
07/29/20 07:53am |
Fifth-Wheels
|
|
RE: Guess what happened to me today!
Well Mitch, that's downright creative of you!
Nice work, right down to the custom vent strips!
Nothing like a little roadside ingenuity!
I too have a rolling hardware store with me in my truck. I even have a 12' 6" brake up there and a roll of flat stock to make stuff with. And I've done many CG repairs for people over the years. Nothing like being prepared.
:)
|
BobsYourUncle
|
07/27/20 07:40pm |
General RVing Issues
|
|
RE: Converting a enclosed trailer to a RV TT
My friend who built one attached a manual RV awning to one side of his trailer. Great idea, it offered the same benefits as on an RV, and gave him some shelter from the weather.
|
BobsYourUncle
|
07/25/20 06:55am |
Travel Trailers
|
|
RE: Converting a enclosed trailer to a RV TT
A good friend of mine did just that.
His was about 14 feet I think. He converted it to a TT for his own use to go fishing and such.
I was very impressed at his ingenuity. The bed folded up against the wall for daytime use. He wired it for lighting and such.
He carried his fishing boat on a rack he built for the roof.
It had a side door and a flip down ramp that he could run a quad up inside.
It was very basic but it worked well.
|
BobsYourUncle
|
07/23/20 07:18pm |
Travel Trailers
|
|
RE: Camper black water tank fluid heats up
Did you have bean burritos for dinner before this happened? :E
:B
|
BobsYourUncle
|
07/21/20 08:43pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Blogging website - recommendations?
Thanks guys for the suggestions, and 1492 for taking the time to detail your reply.
I shall check it out.
|
BobsYourUncle
|
07/19/20 07:06pm |
Technology Corner
|
|
Blogging website - recommendations?
We have a couple blogs going through the free stuff that Google Blogger offers:
There are inherent limitations of course, largely because we are not paying for the service, just using the free part.
I'm looking for input on what some of you may be using, or suggest or recommend for a decent blogging site.
We are limited with Google Blogger unless we sign up for a big monthly fee. I don't mind paying for a service, but dont want to have a hefty fee for something that is non commercial, and really, only a hobby. Hundreds a year is not happening.
One is an art blog for work created.
The other is for our life together, as a couple, and our journey. We want to post about our RV travels and adventures, then offer it up to family and friends as a story of our life. The idea would be to provide a running story for the kids and grandkids to follow us around with.
Didn't really want to make it completely public, but rather just have it for select people, family, friends and others who ask. Google I think limits us to 7 emails to have access to it. Not enough with only 7.
We want to have the ability to post by topics with separate pages from there, such as RV trip to XYZ and the trip outlined there etc. Then other sections for other topics, not necessarily RV related.
Looking for suggestions and examples.
Thanks.
|
BobsYourUncle
|
07/18/20 07:41pm |
Technology Corner
|
|
RE: Lesson learned lol
This may help in getting it started -- instead of holding it in your hand, hold it in a socket of the right size -- I think 1" and 1/16?? That enables you to keep the rod perfectly horizontal, which is not easy by hand alone.
And if the nut is too loose in the socket, put some masking tape on the nut so that the socket fits more tightly. As soon as the nut begins to thread into the hole, take the tape off the nut.
Hope this helps!!
Is the way i do it and I occasionally "clean" the threads with the tap. ;)
Heyyy, as long as it works, then all is well! I must have been holding my mouth wrong or something!
:B
|
BobsYourUncle
|
07/16/20 08:51pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Lesson learned lol
This may help in getting it started -- instead of holding it in your hand, hold it in a socket of the right size -- I think 1" and 1/16?? That enables you to keep the rod perfectly horizontal, which is not easy by hand alone.
And if the nut is too loose in the socket, put some masking tape on the nut so that the socket fits more tightly. As soon as the nut begins to thread into the hole, take the tape off the nut.
Hope this helps!!
Problem with this is that the head of the rod will tip inside the socket, and you cannot see if it is going in straight.
I have tried this. It doesn't work.
If you hold it in your hand you can see and feel if it is starting to thread properly.
|
BobsYourUncle
|
07/16/20 06:21am |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Lesson learned lol
They can be tricky to get started sometimes. The weight of the rod tends to make it want to tip down.
Mine has been pretty corroded at times, but I have always managed to get it in.
Doesn't help with the various components in the way either.
I always start mine by hand, looking at it to make sure it is straight in and not cross threaded. You can tell by looking at it whether it is in straight or not. If you cross thread it and try cranking it in, you will mess up the threads. Then the above mentioned tap to chase the threads will become essential.
I have always used a stiff wire brush on the rod threads, and a small toothbrush sized wire brush on the tank threads.
Never had a problem that required a tap. If it comes out, it will go back in.
|
BobsYourUncle
|
07/15/20 09:39pm |
Tech Issues
|
|
RE: Collision Parts for Old Fivers
Are you able to post some pics?
Shouldn't be too bad to fix. Siding is put on from the top down to the bottom, so to remove the affected area, you take the very bottom trim piece off, revealing the fasteners for the bottom row of siding. Work up from there.
|
BobsYourUncle
|
07/14/20 07:46pm |
Fifth-Wheels
|
|
RE: Collision Parts for Old Fivers
There are places online that make custom siding to your specs.
It is made with a rollformer and they have a lot of different profiles.
I looked at buying some once from a place called Al-rite or something similar to that. Their prices were insanely absurd, so I looked elsewhere.
I found an RV parts department and service shop not too far from my home that had a siding line as part of their business. I went in, picked my profile and gave them the sizes needed along with the Pittsburg lock on the bottom. That's the slot that the next piece fits into. Kind of like an "S" lock.
It's been a number of years, but I think it cost me something like 12 or 1300 dollars to replace all the siding on an entire 25 foot TT.
It might take some looking, but you can find it. Don't give up!
Edit: Found the place
All-rite.com
I didn't check to see if they still have siding. They used to years ago.
|
BobsYourUncle
|
07/14/20 07:35pm |
Fifth-Wheels
|
|
RE: Toyota fake 3/4 ton spotted, overheated
Remember the 70's when Toyota had a mini truck labeled as a 1 ton?
Remember when they put duallies and an oversize Class C on them?
I still see the occasional one going down the road, looking like it's ready to tip over....
|
BobsYourUncle
|
07/13/20 10:30pm |
Tow Vehicles
|
|
RE: Are RV sewer hose supports necessary?
I dont like those expandable adjustable slinky stands, I dont want to fiddle with them.
I ran into a situation at a nice CG on a lake a few years ago where my site had the hookups on the wrong side for me to face the lake when set up.
I drove out to a local building supply store, bought a 10 foot length of 4" PVC pipe, drew a line lengthwise on both sides, pulled out my cordless reciprocating saw and cut the pipe in half lengthwise.
I carry several lengths of slinkies, coupled them together and tied my half pipe at the drain outlet, running it to the drain via under my TT. A few blocks in the right place allowed it to fully drain properly.
Works like a charm. I carry it in the back of my truck now when we camp. Simple and easy to use.
|
BobsYourUncle
|
07/10/20 07:26am |
Beginning RVing
|
|
