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RE: Buying a Former Rental Class C. How many of us out there?

INSTALLING RUNNING BOARDS ON A MAJESTIC 23A Many pages back on this thread, someone asked about putting running boards on their RV. It can be done! I put a pair on my unit yesterday and it is so much easier to climb into the cab now, and I have a 36" inseam. I purchased the Running Boards, or as they call them Step Boards for a company called Carid, online, and the model was the 7 inch wide, 36 inch long "Luverne." At least on a 23A, you have 37 inches from the rear of the front tire well to the front of the coach and the boards I purchased were 36 inches long and they fit with plenty of clearance from the front tire. The instructions left a little to be desired, but after spending a little time in trial fitting the mounting brackets to the underneath of the cab, I was able to figure out their instructions. The model I purchased included everything I needed to do a complete install, but the company neglected to provide instruction for mounting the running boards to the mounting brackets, but I figured it out. If you do some digging around on the Carid website, they do provide instructions. It took me a couple of hours to do the complete install and I was able to do it myself. I'm very happy with the running boards. It's so much easier to get in and out of the cab, plus I think the boards will act somewhat like mud flaps and keep the lower door panels and lower front of the coach a little cleaner. link--> https://www.carid.com/luverne-truck-equipment/7-grip-step-black-step-boards.html?urlId=79288326
Booner 07/04/21 11:09am Class C Motorhomes
Maintaining air pressure in your tires

I've had my RV for less than a year and I'm religious in checking it's tire pressure. I had an inside rear dual that always seemed to loose a little tire pressure, so I checked pressure often. I thought I may have to take this tire to a shop to have it remounted. I went to an auto parts store and purchased a little screw driver looking thing that is used for inserting the tire valve into it's stem. (I'm sorry I don't remember what it's called). Like I said, the tool looks like a small screw driver with a slot cut into it's stem. The valve fits into this slot and allows you to screw the valve into the tire valve stem. It costs a few bucks. I fit this little tool into the valve stem on my leaky tire and found that the reason I was loosing air was the valve was a little loose in the stem which allowed a bit of air to leak around the threads that holds the valve within the stem. It took almost a full rotation of the tool in the tire stem before the valve was firmly seated in the stem. I tightened all of valves on all of my tires and they all have held their air pressure since I did this. For a few dollars this little tool gives me some peace of mind. I just looked it up and the tool is called "a GVX Valve Core Removal Tool" - under $7 on Amazon. I purchased mine at a local car parts store. and a link--> https://www.amazon.com/GVX-Valve-Core-Removal-Tool/dp/B01IE7EL1E/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=Schrader+Valve+Tool&qid=1624644307&sr=8-5
Booner 06/25/21 12:12pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Buying a Former Rental Class C. How many of us out there?

The importance of a TPMS: tire pressure monitoring system. I recently bought a used 30' Class C with 111k miles on the clock from Cruise America. Prior to sale I had performed the perfunctory safety checks, especially on the tires, ensuring they were within 3-5 years from manufacturing date, had good tread, no sidewall cracks and were aired-up appropriately. However, the coach lacked a tire pressure monitoring system (TPMS)--and I thought NOTHING of it. "No big deal," I told myself. I'll religiously check the pressure prior to every trip and that's good enough. That is, until the fateful day recently when I discovered, while parked at a rest stop, that my outer right rear dually looked mighty low. It was a Sunday and I was in Penrose, CO. Fortunately, I found the owner of a tire shop working on his day off and he kindly agreed to put some air in my tire. "Whoa," he said. "Your outer tire is low because it's bearing all the weight that should be shared with the inner dually. And THAT tire is flatter than a pancake. Unrepairable." Whaaa...? Folks, only minutes earlier, I had driven down a treacherous mountain road out of Westcliffe, CO. One with lots of curves, aggressive drivers and a need for reasonable speed. How and where that tire failed I have no idea. And my ignorance of the situation needlessly imperiled me and everyone else on the road. One failed tire could easily have led to two, loss of control and--well, your imagination of a disaster is as good as mine. As I listened to the tire man I began to shudder with the thought of the catastrophe I had miraculously been spared. And how a TPMS is no longer a luxury in my mind. It is an absolute necessity. I'm no longer an indolent wise guy. I got a clue. And I hope you all do, too. I used to live in Colorado and I know the roads you were driving on. They require all of your attention no matter what type of vehicle you're driving. I just made a post about checking the tire's tightness of the valve core into the valve stem in the general class C section. Perhaps your flat was caused because your valve core was loose and allowed the air to leak? (I thought I was making my post in this section). My tires hold air much better now since I did this simple little bit of maintenance.
Booner 06/25/21 11:43am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Buying a Former Rental Class C. How many of us out there?

Hi all. Questions about Cruise America Thor Majestic 23A coach battery. 1) What manufactures, size and type battery did your 23A come with? Mine came with a a Lifetime AMG Deep Cycle Group 31. 2) Was your battery just on the battery tray or did it come with a strap and/or any protection from road debris/elements? 3) Have you replaced your battery and if so, what did you decide to go with? Did you stay with an AMG or go the traditional flooded deep cycle? 1 & 2 My 23A came with a new (what the salesman said) group 31 AGM which just sat on the battery tray-no tiedowns. 3 I've thought about replacing it, as I have no idea how many recharge cycles it's gone through and it seems to loose it's charge, especially when it sits for a few weeks. I've put it on a battery charger if it sits longer than this time period. If I were to replace it, I'd go with another AGM, and add a second battery and a solar panel. You shouldn't mix a flooded and AGM batteries, and I like the idea of no maintenance of the AGM. The Lithium's are just too expensive for the way I use my coach.
Booner 06/05/21 06:31pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Worn suspension

I'll disagree with some of the posters here. 54,000 miles on factory shocks when your running your unit at maximum weight levels, Ya, it could be time for a change. They don't put premium shocks on these thing when they come from the factory. I'm guessing you can buy heavy duty shocks for around $100 each. While your doing this, change out your steering stabilizer too.
Booner 06/04/21 11:00pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Buying a Former Rental Class C. How many of us out there?

I can't speak exactly about the unit you're buying, as mine is the smaller 23A. I'm going to assume your problems with mounting a TV in the bedroom area will be these two; routing a cable for an antenna and powering the TV. mounting the TV shouldn't be a problem, a flat screen isn't that heavy depending on the size. If you mount it under an overhead cabinet, for example, you could tap into a light fixture for 12 volts. If you get a TV that runs on 110 volts, you'll have to either be on shore power or the generator to run the TV. So buy a TV that runs on 12 volts and you'll bypass that problem. (TV's that run on 110 volts have a transformer in them to convert it to 12 volts anyway). I will assume you'll have an antenna on the roof, which means you'll have to add that. You'll have to run an coax cable from that antenna to the TV, and you'll probably want to power that coax to amplify the signal so you'll need power for that (12v). The roof vent for the refrigerator will give you a path from the roof down to underneath the unit so that's a good way to run the coax. From underneath the unit you can go into the storage area and then up to the bed. A bedroom TV can be done, but you'll need a antenna that rotates to get a signal and you have to be within 50ish miles from the TV transmitter or stay in campgrounds that have cable available. If all you be using the TV for is to watch DVD's, then the installation will be much simpler. Or, you could get a tablet that operates on 4g and then anywhere you get a cell signal you'll have entertainment from anywhere in or out of the TV. It's what I do.
Booner 05/29/21 01:25am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Buying a Former Rental Class C. How many of us out there?

All new Bilstein HD shocks, Front steering stabilizer, Front and rear Anti sway bars, Front and rear Sumo springs airless air bags, Hi Majestic31 (or Booner or anyone else) - could you link the Bilstein Shock and steering stabilizer you purchased? I could not find E450 Shock/stabilizers (for CA 28A Majestic) on Amazon. Thanks in advance. Edit: Answering my own question for others in future: Steering Stabilizer on Amazon $115 Rear Shocks part number 33-176840 as per Bilstein (08-16 E450 motorhomes) Front shocks - Part number 33-187563 as per Bilsteing (08-16 E450 Motorhomes) I have linked to Amazon but can be bought cheaper elsewhere. Hey Quasimatter, To figure out what shocks fit my rv, I first went to the Bilstein website and looked up what shock they recommend for my unit, then looked that model up on Amazon. Since my unit is a 23A, and an E350, my rv may or may not use the same shocks as yours. But it looks like you found what you need. I hope you're very satisfied with the shocks. -Booner
Booner 05/11/21 07:25pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Thor Majestic 23A

There is so much information on the Majestic 23A in the thread IAMICHABOD referred to, as well as other Cruise America models, that I highly recommend you read. The thread should put most of your fears of buying a used rv with plenty of miles on them to rest. My 23A from CA had 128,000 on the odometer and I haven't had any problem worth mentioning. I did replace the shocks and steering stabilizer on it as my first major purchase, and I would recommend you do the same. I also added a wireless backup camera because you have a huge blind spot behind the unit. re: driving on gravel roads- You're driving a big, overweight vehicle on a rough surface so take you time and avoid thinking it's capable of off-road use. The biggest problem I've encountered is dust getting into the unit. How the unit is attached to the subframe leaves a lot of gaps that the dust will find a way into. I've spent plenty of time underneath the unit plugging these gaps with caulking, expanding foam, and spray on truck bed liner. I've eliminated most of the gaps and the dust incursion is almost nil. This is a fairly typical problem of most rv's, but I think it's time well spent. The 23A is a base level RV, and I'm good with that. I have no problems recommending a former CA rental to anyone, the miles on the unit don't bother me. The engine and chassis on these units are good for 1/2 million miles if they are maintained, and in my opinion, the rental companies do a better job of maintaining them than a private owner.
Booner 04/07/21 01:53pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Buying a Former Rental Class C. How many of us out there?

And, now we have power! I decided not to add a secondary battery or a solar system but to instead just connect to the main coach battery. I have an inverter mounted under the seat and connected to the coach battery. I have a remote power switch and a voltmeter (connected to the coach battery through the inverter) mounted just behind the back cushion to the black plastic cover, and the surge protector cable is ran through the seat belt slot. I posted some pictures in the Facebook Group "Cruise America 19G Owners" - https://www.facebook.com/groups/402432987512698/. Total cost was $275 to have access to power outlets WITHOUT having to run the generator or be connected to shore power. Pretty awesome to sit there with my phone connected, laptop connected, heated throw on high and watch the voltage drop 0.1 over the course of like four hours : ) https://www.facebook.com/groups/402432987512698/ I'm not a Facebook member and it's a private group so I can't look at what you've done, so what's the wattage of your inverter? I've got two inverters that I could put in my rv, a 800 watt and a 1800 watt. I think I'll do the 800 only so I'm not putting too much stress on my house battery. Later on this spring I'll figure out how to add an additional battery and put about 150 watt solar panel on the roof.
Booner 03/10/21 05:53pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: What to do about old gas in tank

Since that gas has some age to it, it may cause some engine misfires if you put the engine under some heavy load. Once you get some fresh as in the tank, misfiring shouldnt be a problem. High octane gas is for high compression engines, which you don't have and by using it you're just wasting money. Check your owners manual for what octane they recomend and go with that. My guess is it'll be the lowest octane available at your local gas station.
Booner 03/10/21 02:21pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Buying a Former Rental Class C. How many of us out there?

They ran along the top of the fresh water tank. They ended being the wires for the cargo lights in the basement. I couldn't use them be a use the ran from the switch to the other light, so they would only work work if the switch was on. OK then. Read my post to you at the bottom of page 148 which will tell you how to wire something using the interior lighting circuit. I'm assuming you have a light fixture under the cabinets that are over your bed. This 12V circuit is always hot and all you have to do is splice into it before the light switch. The wire that goes to the switch will be the hot wire. -or- Wait a day or two and I'll take some pictures of how I wired in a USB outlet by my bed using the light circuit. I want to charge my phone at night while I listen to podcasts. You never responded to my question as to what you need the new outlet for. Something like a USB plug, or perhaps a radio isn't that much of a extra-load for the circuit. If you want to plug in an electric blanket or coffee pot-that may be too much and they should have their own circuit.
Booner 03/10/21 02:06pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Buying a Former Rental Class C. How many of us out there?

There are two sets of these wires. They each go to the back corners of the rv. Could they be for the taillights/turnsignals? Why would there be three in a set? Where are these wires you speak of Located? On my unit (the 25 foot model), the wires for the tail lights run along the frame on the underside of the unit in a sheathed bundle. From this bundle comes four wires to each corner of the rv; one for the running light, one for the stop light and one for the turn signal. The forth wire is for the ground. You may not have the fourth wire as the light fixture itself may be grounded to the frame.
Booner 03/08/21 11:36am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Buying a Former Rental Class C. How many of us out there?

I am wanting to add some dc outlets to the bedroom. I found some wires I would like to tap into, I think they go the cargo lights in the back bay. The wire colors are white, gray with white stripe, and white with black stripe. Anybody know which is positive, negative, and ground? I can't tell you which wire is what, although my guess is the wires with the stripe is the ground-but test this first-so I would suggest you get a multimeter/circuit tester to check wire polarity. There is no neutral in a 12v circuit, only positive (hot) and ground (negative). If you're just looking to add a dc circuit for a modest load, (dc charger, radio, lighting, etc.), you could tap into one of the light fixtures in the bedroom area. The light circuit is of two wires (hot and ground), 12V and the circuit is always hot. The switch on the light fixture turns the light on and off. Just tap into the wires between the house battery and before the light switch, and you'll have constant power from your house battery.
Booner 03/04/21 01:37pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Buying a Former Rental Class C. How many of us out there?

Driving to VA. To pickup 28a inspection went well ,1 minor issue shower door rollers out of track. Anyone have any problem receiving title from CA they say 30 -45 days (why so long?) they give you a Temp plate But my state doesn’t recognize Temp plates (MA) . Hopefully all goes well! I think it took around 45 days to get my title.
Booner 02/21/21 11:31pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Flush Transmission and Radiator?

I think the big destroyer of a transmission is heat, not age or mileage. At 60,000 mile and driving a heavy vehicle up and down hills and/or towing a vehicle, your tranny has gone through some heat cycles, so yes, I would change the fluid. And if you want to get real anal about your tranny, add a aftermarket tranny cooler after the radiator to help keep the tranny temps down. When I'm stopped at a long traffic light I put my tranny in neutral to help keep it from getting hot. Your 'check engine light' might be something as simple as a loose fitting gas cap; either you didn't get it on securely or perhaps the rubber seal around the cap has a crack in it. It will take about a 1/2 dozen on/off cycles of your engine for the check engine light to switch off after you cap the gas tank tightly. I like Mobile 1 oil.
Booner 02/11/21 08:47pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Modify OR Access Easily Over cab Bed for the Older Camper

I would think anyone with a table saw could make you a ladder that would work for you. Shoot, come to my place in Central Missouri and I'll make you one! When I'm done, we'll do lunch. I've got some scrap 2x6's out in the garage.
Booner 01/14/21 12:02am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Lifting my class C

By no means do I know much about hitches, but from the picture alone it appears that a square spacer was used for the hitch to attach to: is this normal? I would think you'd want the hitch to attach directly to the frame rails. So perhaps if you investigated a new hitch design you could gain the height you wanted and the towing capacity you want. A new hitch would allow you to get rid of the casters, which is what is probably causing you to drag your bottom, and nobody I know wants a dragging bottom. There also seems to be some rust in that area and I would investigate that too to see how bad it is. I recently put HD Bilstein shock all the way around my motor home along with a steering stabilizer. I purchased them from Amazon; the shocks were around $90 each and the stabilizer $115. It greatly improved the handling. I put the stabilizer on myself; it was simple to do and the factory stabilizer was well past worn out. If your going to tow something, you'll want a good handling rig. Also, I'm wondering if you lifted the rear end of your MH, if that would change the caster on your front wheels either for better or worse as far as handling goes? If you still are running on the factory shocks and stabilizer, it's probably time for a change anyway.
Booner 12/31/20 07:11pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: RVing in the winter

our two large AGM batteries have no problem running the furnace for only 15-20 minutes, total, out of each hour at those inside and outside temperatures Perhaps the key is a second battery. As I understand, the electric blower dragons out within a few short hours without connection to shore power or running the genny. I'll quote myself : ) The 19G manual states: HOW IT (FURNACE) OPERATES Use the wall thermostat to turn the furnace on. Air is heated by burning propane. A blower using 12-volt power from the auxiliary battery circulates the hot air through the motorhome. WARNING: If the auxiliary battery is not being charged via the chassis engine, a campground connection or the generator, the furnace blower will discharge it in two to three hours and then the furnace will shut off. If this happens, you may recharge the battery by running the chassis engine for about 45 minutes. I have found the above to be true, running the house battery down -IF- you run the furnace on high. So I don't run the furnace on high. I'll first warm up the motorhome with the truck engine heater (which also charges the house batteries), then turn the engine off and start the furnace. Once the heater is putting out hot air, I move the thermostat slider down to just above the level where it turns the furnace off. So far, running the furnace this way, the house battery has not been run down overnight. I'll admit that I haven't tried this when it's been really cold, only when it's been slightly below freezing, so my results may be different if I was using my motorhome if it were really cold. In the morning, I'll turn the thermostat up to high, and start the truck up again to help with the heating and recharge the battery.
Booner 12/11/20 12:46pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Buying a Former Rental Class C. How many of us out there?

Got Dust? I picked up my 23A at the end of September and have put around 4,000 miles since I purchased it. New heavy duty Bilstein shocks all around with a Bilstein steering stabilizer stopped the little "wandering" problem I had. Experimenting with tire air pressure helped the ride comfort lever too. Keeping as much weight forward as possible also helps. The gas tank, gray and black tanks are all behind the rear axel and that takes weight off of the front end and promotes the wandering. There's no reason to haul around the contents of the gray and black tank so I empty them as often as I can. My biggest problem is collecting dust in the house section from driving on gravel roads. I'm not talking about a little dust. I talking about "OMG, doesn't this guy every clean the dust out of his motor home?" kind of dust with one drive down a gravel road. CA and Thor did a good job of sealing the outside of the unit. I've looked the whole unit over and have only had to add a small amount of sealant on the roof and tail light area. Where someone dropped the ball was sealing the underside of the unit. If dust is coming in, then I'm loosing my A/C and heated air through these holes too. So I've spent a lot of time under my unit sealing things up with expanding foam. The area on the inside of the rear wheel wells had a very large gap between the floor and side walls on both sides. To do the job right, I should have removed the rear tires and then crawled into the wheel wells to do my sealing. Instead of that, I used a small piece of wood paneling as a paddle to hold some expanding foam on and then reached in from the outside and spread/pushed the foam into the gaps. It's not a pretty job, but only I and my tire shop will know about it. Also there are holes in the bottom of the unit were gas and electric lines run through and these areas needed some additional foam to seal the holes. The area around the steps was not sealed, and calking was used to seal that area. I'm working on the shower now. I don't want to take the shower apart to seal things correctly, and I'm sure there is no insulation under the shower pan considering how cold the shower floor is, but a lot of dust comes in between the fiberglass sides and the floor pan. I think I will apply some caulk where the fiberglass side panels meet the floor pan and use some short shank screws to tighten the side walls to the floor pan. To do all of this, I need to take the stool out of the bathroom. I'm really looking forward to that! One can only wonder what I'll find there. I also want to put a raised floor in front of the toilet as it sits pretty high. I'll admit I'm rather anal about this, and I'm not some kind of clean freak either. I'd like to think I'm more interested in fixing something that should have been done at the factory, and when/if I ever sell this thing, the new buyer will get a better unit. Since I purchased my former rental, I spend a lot of time on this and other forums trying to learn from others; what problems they have and how they fixed them. I've come to the conclusion that I did the right thing in buying my first RV from CA. Reading the problems buyers have had with their "factory new" motorhomes, people who've spent 3 times what I spent and still have major issues with their new motorhome, only confirms that my decision was the right one.
Booner 12/11/20 11:32am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Buying a Former Rental Class C. How many of us out there?

Thanks Chris for the above answers - Makes sense - I will plan on getting 2 identical batteries. Another quick question for Majestic 28A owners, What is the compartment in front of Master Bed - It is solid metal box with metal cover screwed on with special pin-in Hex screws. I opened it up and voila - there is nothing in there. Was it supposed to house something? Attaching a picture. https://i.postimg.cc/xX4q5x4b/20201210-144657.jpg As you can see - there is another metal box inside with sides open (nothing inside that either). Maybe it used to house something which was removed (or an option that was not installed)? It looks a bit odd being right at the foot of the bed and also just being big metal plate which does not match other flooring. PS: Is there a forum anywhere that is specific to Majestic (or even 28A)? I remember asking my CA salesman, and he said something about it was an access panel to the transmission, maybe the differential. I just took it at that and never opened it up. Maybe someone else has better information. MtnBikeMarty I don't know if that access hatch is the same in my unit (23A) as your larger unit, but I was told it was an access panel for the fuel pump. Enjoy your new toy! Booner
Booner 12/11/20 10:24am Class C Motorhomes
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