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 > Your search for posts made by 'BruceMc' found 29 matches.

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RE: Counter top replacement

You can do Solid Surface (One brand is Corian): I did! More pics of the project on my photo hosting site.
BruceMc 07/29/20 09:47pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: New tow setup.... (Roadmaster/Demco)

The rest of the story: Installing the braking system took time, and a bit of rework here and there. I mounted the operating unit under the hood in a convenient location between the air filter box and windshield washer & antifreeze overflow containers on the passenger side. The two hoses and electrical harness routing was easy & clean, along the top of the firewall to the drivers side. The tail/brake light wiring + brake-away wiring was mounted in the license plate bracket with additional bracing, and routed to the radiator core support, where they terminated in connectors to facilitate easy bumper removal in the future, should it ever be necessary. From there, the cabling was routed to the battery breakout box/on to the connection point for the braking system, and aft to the tail/brake/CHMSL (center high mounted stop lamp) lamps. As it worked out, I used 6 diodes, though during the setup for the CHMSL, I found the wiring bundle just before all was broken out for separate bulbs. All told, I could have done the setup with 4 diodes - Stop/CHMSL, Left turn/stop, right turn/stop, and all tail lights. The Canyon is super easy to put into tow mode: 1) Hook up tow bar, umbilical, break-away cable, safety cables. 2) Turn on braking system via a switch on the Demco Stay-in-play "G-Force Controller" box. 3) Place the Canyon transmission in neutral, keep foot on brake, press & hold 2H and 4L buttons for about 15 seconds. When the red N light comes on, Put it in park, pull the key and hop out. We tested the setup with a 20 mile run, including turn tests in a parking lot. The 2250 Sunseeker on Chevy has a tight turning radius, so with the motorhome steering wheel turned to the stops (full steering wheel lock), I turned about 220 degrees before my friend started holler... I had a half inch between bumpers.
BruceMc 07/17/20 10:57am Dinghy Towing
RE: New tow setup.... (Roadmaster/Demco)

Pictures & comments of the install and tests... Regarding the CHMSL, I found a blue wire in the MH harness for that line. I added it to the harness running to the trailer elec connector's center pin, and routed it via the last open lead in the 6 wire umbilical. It would have been nice if Roadmaster included a full 7 wire umbilical, but as their kit terminated the umbilical in a 6 pin connector, I can see where they felt the 7th wire would never be used. Thus, I now have the standard signal and turn on the lower two tail/brake lights, and full brake lights/CHMSL on the upper two tail/brake lights plus the center high mounted stop light.
BruceMc 07/16/20 08:36am Dinghy Towing
RE: How Long For Tow Cables?

Agreed! No matter how our setups are configured, let's hope we never have to test the theories. Safe travels!
BruceMc 06/18/20 11:16am Dinghy Towing
RE: How Long For Tow Cables?

I can understand your position on the breakaway cable, mowermech! I can imagine that situation, but the idea of a vehicle attached to the motorhome only by the safety cables would be wild too. Let's say you are moving along at 70, and the towbar gives way but is still attached by the safety cables. Now, you have 1.5 - 3 tons of vehicle flailing around back there, and how do you stop this parade? If the toad is in fully braked mode, at least it won't be crashing into the back of the tow vehicle as you attempt to come to a stop. There's going to be a lot of damage, either way. According to my Demco Stay-in-Play instructions: Step 13: The Breakaway Cable Clip the breakaway cable to the hitch-receiver tow-cable holes on the coach and clip the lanyard to the loop on the breakaway plug. The length of the cable should be long enough that it will not pull out on the tightest possible turns made in either direction. Also route the cable so that it will not get caught on the tow bar. It should be short enough that it will pull out before the towed reaches the end of the safety cables.
BruceMc 06/18/20 08:38am Dinghy Towing
RE: Do You Trust Hitch Locks?

Another method is to find small locks that fit the grooveon the hitch pin in pianotuna's post. I've got the same quandry with my tow setup; I want to lock everything that is in sight. For the pins that are out of sight and won't be removed until the end of the towing session, I'll probably use lynch pins such as these on those hitch pins: then wrap a stout wire tie around the pin and object to keep it in place. My MH mounted Roadmaster is the crossbar type with these lynch pins; I have a pair of padlocks for them but need 4, and will have to lock the pin on the MH hitch as well.
BruceMc 06/17/20 03:53pm Dinghy Towing
New tow setup.... (Roadmaster/Demco)

I'm in the process of setting up a new toad, so I thought I'd post the setup. I'll add pictures of the install at a later date, and any tidbits that others may find useful. Likewise, I'll learn lots of new things via the conversations! I have: Tow vehicle: 2016 Sunseeker 2250 on Chevy 4500(combined brake/turn lamps) Toad: 2012 GMC Canyon 4wd crew cab (separate brake/turn lamps) Baseplates: Roadmaster Towbar: Roadmaster Falcon 2 Supplemental Braking System (SBS): Demco Stay-in-play Tail/stop wiring via diodes. I've completed the baseplate install and brackets for the crossbar on the Falcon. All is very easy to install though it takes time. Only one 1/2" hole is need to be drilled in each side of the frame rails, otherwise the installation uses existing holes. The splash guard needed minor modifications to clear the bracket at the guard forward attachment points, and the air dam needed 2" square holes for the removable brackets. The SBS is about 50% installed - I have the underhood unit installed and hoses/wiring routed to the hook-up location. The vacuum connection is complete. I have the location for the controller set up; it took some fabrication to build a bracket for the controller & deflect the heater duct. I've installed the 6 pin input umbilical socket and wiring past the hookup location for the SBS, and on to the rear. Likewise, the breakaway switch is mounted and wires routed under the hood ready for hookup. The wiring for the tail & brake lamps is complete and functional, except two items: 1) License plate lamp 2) Center High Mounted Stop Lamp (CHMSL) The wiring in the Canyon is interesting. Both license plate lamps are wired individually, and are each routed through connectors back to the main bundle under the bed. Whether both are routed up to the distribution block or are combined at the first breakout under the bed, I do not yet know. However, as they have a common source, I'll bind both souces at the input of the diode pair, then tie both drains (feeding the lamps) to the output. The other diode input will be the tow vehicle input. I've searched for the best method to wire in the CHMSL; there seems to be devices available to run the lamp from combined brake/turn, but many folks report issues with both versions - a 3 wire adapter or the 6 wire adapter. More later....
BruceMc 06/17/20 12:20pm Dinghy Towing
RE: How Long For Tow Cables?

The umbilical cord should be long enough that it has no stress placed on it in sharp turns, but shouldn't have excess slack. It should be routed such that it won't be harmed by any pinch points. I like to tie my umbilical to the tow bar near the hinge point. That way the cable length is nearly the same at any angle. Regarding safety cables/chains - the above regarding the umbilical cord applies to the length of the cables. Do the same with the cables as the umbilical - tie it to the towbar near the hinge point, and cross the cables - left on toad to right attachment point on the two vehicle, etc. Regarding the strength - you must meet or exceed the toad's weight, so 6K is perfect for your 4.5K toad. The important part is the length of the break-away cable - it must be shorter than the safety cables - if the rig breaks away from the MH, then it must pull the break away switch before reaching the end of the cables. The same applies whether towing a trailer or a vehicle. Hope that helps!
BruceMc 06/17/20 11:39am Dinghy Towing
RE: Where do you store your Shoes, Boots, Sandals and Slippers

Right here: width=480 And just under rear of the passenger seat. Both work well. Other General Storage projects.
BruceMc 05/18/20 07:51pm General RVing Issues
RE: Hub grease seal.

Correct - two different systems, for two different uses. Bearing Buddy systems are designed for boat trailers. The purpose is to keep the water out of the bearings. While driving to the boat ramp, the bearings will heat some, then when immersed in cold water, will cool rapidly. If they are conventional bearings, water will be drawn into the hub. All will be fine, until, on the way home the bearing will overheat as it now contains water... and there goes the wheel(s). The bearing buddy has a spring & cavity for extra grease; when immersed, it'll contract, but no water will be pulled into the hub. That all said, I have bearing buddy units on my boat trailer, and have been satisfied with the performance. Next, I've had conventional bearings on all the trailers I have/had over the years, and always installed a new seal & hand packed them after acquisition, then ran for years afterward with nary an issue. I check 'em every 3-5 years. All is good.
BruceMc 03/11/20 05:57pm General RVing Issues
RE: Norcold 1200 Thermistor reads wrong until door opened/closed

Just guessing in the wind, but it sounds like the logic board is faulty.
BruceMc 03/06/20 04:37pm Tech Issues
RE: Awning Fabric Replacement

After searching my archives, I'm not finding info on what I paid, but here's the original article on the replacement process. It's in the ForWhatItsWorth department: A&E Awning fabric replacement - With pictures!
BruceMc 01/31/20 09:59am Tech Issues
RE: BORN FREE's Kim Olson still in the RV business?

Ours was 14ish years old when we replaced the fuel pump. There was not a single spot of rust as the entire tank/accessories were stainless (with the obvious exception of the plastic & rubber parts). I wish I'd have taken a pic of the interior, but it was as fresh inside as the day it was manufactured: If you paid $5,500 for an installed replacement, you got taken.
BruceMc 01/24/20 03:14pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Need Help with Utility Trailer Decision

When shopping for a trailer for my Kubota 1860, I had a choice of steel with wood or steel deck, or aluminum. Both 6x12 trailers were single axle and had a GVW of 2K, but the difference was the steel was 500 lbs heavier. I chose aluminum which gave me that much more in carrying weight. The price was a bit more, but it's been well worth it:
BruceMc 01/22/20 12:01pm General RVing Issues
RE: Ford V10 vs Pending V8

Do you have any information on the new E-series other than the engine? I'm passively interested in other changes such as chassis front-end design and cabin design.
BruceMc 01/20/20 09:05am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Dually Valve Stems

While the Borg/Tireman extensions are the way to go for many folks, this has been my method for a decade: Kit: Small metal extensions - tighten the inner fitting with small pliers. I've never had a leak with these on both our Ford (shown) and our current Sunseeker based on the Chevrolet 4500: Leave the inner dual as is - no need to add an extension: Using the short piece of hose, remove the inner valve cap: Result: Check the pressure with the double footed gauge: If it needs air, temporarily use an extender. The female end fitting is fixed; it does not spin on the hose, so it can be spun on using the hose: Result: Attach your compressor, and add air as needed: BTW, I'm one of those 5% who DO rotate tires! I don't remove all of them - I just lift the desired axles, but I did remove all when Michelin had a recall a few years back:
BruceMc 01/15/20 03:58pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: It is no wonder

The derivative 28 cos(7x- pi/2) @ x-0 = 28 cos( -pi/2), which is 28 cos(-90 degrees) = 0. It's all French to me. Or Italian. or Cyrillic. Or some other language I don't understand. (Fortran? Java?) I studied C for a while, but quickly came to the conclusion that I just didn't have the mind for it. That all (needlessly) said... I ran a forum website for a decade, and it was a constant fight to keep the spammers and scammers at bay. Problem is, it's a battle of "Whack-a-mole". Just when you think you are ahead of the game, they pop up elsewhere. Fortunately I turned it over to a new owner/admin a few years back - I was exhausted. The new admin has done an admirable job with the site. It's just a fact of life these days. We are getting to the point where we are fairly "secure" in our workplace, but we can't get much done because we are dealing with all the new & constantly changing security (bleep). Yet, if we didn't deal with it, we'd be overrun & stolen blind by the the baddies.
BruceMc 12/06/19 09:16am General RVing Issues
RE: Replaced dinette with theatre seats

Continuing the updates: We purchased a pair of swivel table kits for the alter-abled as source material for this project: When the kits arrived, they were missing some parts. As I was planning to cut them up, I had what I needed, but it was a bit frustrating to receive incomplete product. And the feedback mechanism left a lot to be desired - it was rejected, and once rejected, additional feedback could not be provided. Boo. Using pieces of the kit and bed rail angle iron, I built new brackets for swivel tables, and modified the table tops, as follows: Left and right brackets welded up & painted with hammered finish: Assembly completed & painted: Assembly complete, ready to bolt into place: Fitted: Bracket positioning - Note it hits the top of the arm rests. I drill new holes in the movable tube and re-positioned the height adjustment snap button so it would set just a tad above the arm rest. Aft side: I modded the backets on the tops so they would set lower on the brackets by removing the existing stud and welding in a nut. Previously, they set about an inch above the square wall tubing. I purchased two thumbscrews with 5/16 x 2" bolts to attach the tops to the square wall, then opened up the hole nearest the end to accommodate the increased bolt size: Final Result: A set of tables that can be removed for storage, yet quickly and easily installed when needed: We tested these on our summer trip/family reunion. We hauled our oldest daughter and her 4 & 6 year old kids, our grandchildren. They worked very well. I plan to either cut up the solid surface (corian) tabletop I made for the dinette, or obtain more corian & custom make the tops. Corian is a bit heavier, but in the grand scheme of things, is much more durable than the bamboo. We might find the original bamboo tables are quite sufficient - time will tell. ----- To finish the seats, they needed permanent cup/phone/etc holders. The design was also intended to further stabilize the swivel table upright tubes, as they were a bit thinner than I would have liked. Two openings are square, the center opening is a bit smaller in one direction. I used a variety of cup holders to size these boxes, and maximized the available space: Initial fitting: Initial fitting - I determined I needed a support panel/base for the right side, as the upright tube just didn't have the strength for decent stability: Cupholder/support base finished and installed: Left size install finished and installed. I used a screw clamp to hold the outer end to the upright and screwed the inner end to the pantry cabinet: Once installed, I cut some of the "waffle" non-skid foam shelf liner material to fit the bottoms. These absorb some noise and keeps things from rattling around. Project complete. Next: Storage boxes behind, beneath the seats. (This project is complete, but I've yet to post the details) As always, tons of photos of these projects are located at my photo hosting site:
BruceMc 11/07/19 04:49pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Running generator on a hill

Correct! We've enjoyed every minute of ownership too. It no longer looks this pretty: but it still works as well today as it did then.
BruceMc 11/01/19 02:20pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Pop goes the water heater!

The OP states: 'The "tunnel" where the burner goes is all rusted out and collapsed.' Thinking out loud, exploring some alternate ideas: Could it be the corrosion happened on the burner side of the heat tube rather than the water side? In that case, the condition of the anode rod wouldn't matter. (Except, during normal use, the anode should have eroded some.) The air is pretty dry in Mesa Arizona, so one wouldn't think excess moisture would be a contributor as it would be in western Oregon/Washington, for example. Yet, propane does contain a fair amount of moisture so the air may not have been a contributor. (Has your propane vendor been padding their profits by doping their propane supply? B^) Chris, your comments may explain this one - a dry fire with propane would certainly overheat the combustion side of the heat tube. As enblethen suggested, if I was in your situation, I'd certainly opt for an aluminum Atwood. I've had Atwoods since our first motorhome and never had a speck of issues.
BruceMc 11/01/19 12:51pm Tech Issues
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