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RE: Generator - A/C issue

The gen is rated well above the capacity of the A/C and is evident that it is capable of easily handling the load(s) in eco mode as it only rises to 3050 RPMs from 2650 RPMs and does not go into overload. I don't usually do it so as to ease the load on the gen but, with the gen in eco mode, I have had on the A/C, microwave, coffee pot, and electric water heater all at once. The gen did kick up to full throttle speed (3450 RPMs), but it did not go into overload. If the issue was happening in reverse, that the gen would go into overload when running on eco mode but would handle the A/C compressor kick on in full throttle mode, I would agree with the "hidden" usage idea but since it works fine at the lower eco mode RPM it must be something with the gen advancing when in full throttle mode, even though it should not, that is perhaps causing the overload. I find no specifications for an "EF3600ISDE" generator made by Yamaha. I am assuming it to be a 3600 watt peak genny, if it exists. (you referenced the above number in your initial post) I do find one for an "EF6300ISDE" generator. (6300 watts peak) Is that what you mean? If so, that generator should have plenty of juice to start/run a 13500/15000 BTU AC unit. (and lots of other stuff too) But before you waste more time, can you please confirm this? (or post the actual model that you do have) Chum lee
Chum lee 03/13/20 04:00pm Tech Issues
RE: LOUD Transmission drone at 58-62MPH

Pinion gear in rear end if noise goes away when letting off gas. Sound will travel thru driveshaft. Been there. Really? Have you done anything to it?New ring gear and pinion. This is a common problem in truck rear ends if the gears were not set up correctly or do not wear in correctly when breaking in. Interesting, didn't know there were a break in procedure for the rear end. If From incorrect seating, sounds like it can be fixed by readjusting with shims? When you replaced the ring and pinion, did you kept the same gearing? Can You also throw us a link of where you purchased? Would like to do more research about this if there's any mechanical adverse effects left alone or ignored for x amount of miles IME, once a ring and pinion start whining, unfortunately, it's usually there to stay. The ring and pinion gears are the most highly loaded gear set in the drive train. There is no break in period, BUT, if they are initially set up improperly, they "wear in" very quickly and start to make noise. The noise (and the ring and pinion) may last a normal lifetime (just annoying really) or it may quickly get worse and self destruct. The question to answer is, . . . . . . . "Do you feel lucky?" Chum leeMost manufacturers tell you not to tow for the first 500 miles or so. Why do you think that is? In the first 500 miles, everything (1,000's of parts) is getting to know each other as well as you are getting to know them. Longer break in periods were more common years ago, but as assembly lines, manufacturing tolerances, and material technologies improve, less and less extensive today. Still, follow the manufacturers recommendations if they exist. Chum lee
Chum lee 03/13/20 01:00pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Quality Question about Small Inverters

At 300 watts I would say that how you plan to connect the inverter to the RV electrical is just as important as the inverter that you buy. If you plan on plugging into a dash mounted cigarette lighter type socket, you'll generally find that the wiring to the socket is sizes/fused for 10 amps DC at 12 volts. (it may be more but you should check that) Many RV's have 1 or more auxiliary sockets (provided by the coach builder) that is/are wired for 20 amps at 12 volts DC. If you buy a 300 watt inverter and load it up, it will try to draw up to 25 amps. Even more as the batteries discharge. See the problem? With lots of use at high loads, the socket will eventually overheat. IMO, at more than 240 watts continuous, it's better to hard wire the inverter directly to the battery posts with terminals or at least use temporary spring loaded compression clamps rather than the cigarette lighter type battery socket if provided with the inverter. Chum lee
Chum lee 03/13/20 12:47pm Tech Issues
RE: 95 ford pace arrow falls on its face

Is there an issue with the tank vent? Try running with the cap loose or off temporarily. Read here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1159072-vacuum-buildup-in-gas-tank.html Yes! ^^^^^^^ I've seen this several times. Very easy fix. Your fuel pressure should remain fairly consistent over a wide operating range. I only use OEM quality fuel pumps, no cheap Chinese parts in my fuel tanks. If no help confirm that the catalytic converter is flowing free. Any fault codes? Chum lee
Chum lee 03/13/20 12:23pm Tech Issues
RE: Generator - A/C issue

duplicate
Chum lee 03/12/20 02:06pm Tech Issues
RE: LOUD Transmission drone at 58-62MPH

Pinion gear in rear end if noise goes away when letting off gas. Sound will travel thru driveshaft. Been there. Really? Have you done anything to it?New ring gear and pinion. This is a common problem in truck rear ends if the gears were not set up correctly or do not wear in correctly when breaking in. Interesting, didn't know there were a break in procedure for the rear end. If From incorrect seating, sounds like it can be fixed by readjusting with shims? When you replaced the ring and pinion, did you kept the same gearing? Can You also throw us a link of where you purchased? Would like to do more research about this if there's any mechanical adverse effects left alone or ignored for x amount of miles IME, once a ring and pinion start whining, unfortunately, it's usually there to stay. The ring and pinion gears are the most highly loaded gear set in the drive train. There is no break in period, BUT, if they are initially set up improperly, they "wear in" very quickly and start to make noise. The noise (and the ring and pinion) may last a normal lifetime (just annoying really) or it may quickly get worse and self destruct. They question to answer is, . . . . . . . "Do you feel lucky?" Chum lee
Chum lee 03/12/20 01:41pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Generator - A/C issue

IMO, what you are experiencing is a generator that is too small for the loads that you are imposing on it. As others have mentioned, there are potentially numerous electrical loads which may automatically duty cycle through your electrical system without your knowledge. Based on the ambient temperature, humidity, elevation, barometric pressure, fuel (gasoline or propane) your generator may not be able to generate full rated power. IMO, generally, when your genny keeps kicking off (due to overload) that's what it is trying to tell you. IMO you need to do some data logging so that you KNOW what the loads are. Don't guess. Chum lee
Chum lee 03/12/20 01:24pm Tech Issues
RE: Atwood Furnace Problems

If none of the above fixes the problem, look carefully at all the internal wiring and connectors as well as the grounds. Check for good continuity at all the connections. Look for discolored wiring terminals and melted insulation on the wiring. Chum lee
Chum lee 03/09/20 01:06pm Tech Issues
RE: Mfg. (new vehicle) warranty question

You may find that some new vehicle components, like tires, are warrantied by the tire manufacturer. In that case the tire manufacturer will go by the date stamped on the tire(s). At least, at first, they will try to. What happens next is up to you. Chum lee
Chum lee 03/08/20 02:22pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: DIY battery cable supplier

IMO, the ultimate source for people who like to design/build/repair things: www.mcmaster.com (no affiliation) If they don't have it, or, can't get it, . . . . chances are it doesn't exist. Their online catalog is also a nice reference for what's available without having to drive around. Chum lee
Chum lee 03/08/20 02:13pm Tech Issues
RE: Odometer error

My 2001 fleetwood DP odometer reads a lot more miles than I have actually travelled. Could this be due to a shorter tire installed by previous owner, and what can I do to correct it? Need more information. Is this an electronic or a mechanical speedometer/odometer? Specifically, how far off is it? Yes, tire size can make a difference, but, its usually limited to about 1%-3%. Any good speedometer shop can recalibrate your odometer if need be. Law enforcement does it all the time if their vehicles are used to clock the speed of the general public. (speeding tickets) Chum lee
Chum lee 03/06/20 11:37am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Coolant

"Coolant maintenance for a 2001 Beaver Patriot Thunder, CAT C12." I would change the coolant because it is at the manufacturers recommended change interval. (time) I would NOT change the type of coolant, only replace what's currently there. (because it was initially recommended by the manufacturer. Case in point. Years ago I owned multiple German cars. I know they aren't the same as the vehicle referenced above. The manufacturer called for G11 (blue) coolant. (2 year change interval) I changed the coolant to G12 (red extended change interval OAT technology coolant) thinking I was doing the vehicle a favor. Within two days, my heater core began leaking. A very expensive repair. Within a week, my plastic end cap copper core radiator began leaking. Another very expensive repair. At the same time my water pump shaft seal began leaking. Coincidence, . . . . . maybe, but I think not. IMO, if it's working as is, don't fix/change it. Just do the manufacturers recommended maintenance. Chum lee
Chum lee 03/06/20 11:27am Class A Motorhomes
RE: F53 brake master cylinder failure

Only use the specified brake fluid if you need to top off. (see your owners manual or the reservoir on the MC) Chum lee I would think you would need some type of pump to fill the bin. The master cylinder is high up in the compartment and right under the dashboard. Barely enough room to take the cap off. I will report back once I get the motorhome back and talk to the service writer. He did tell me this was covered by the Ford warranty. Yes, it is tough to add brake fluid on the F53. You'll need some type of siphon or pump. A turkey baster (filled with brake fluid) with a flexible clear plastic hose on the end will work in a pinch. Or you could try using an old (empty and well cleaned) hand sanitizer bottle with pump. IMO, don't use the baster in the kitchen again unless you clean it really well, . . . . . . . and, . . . . . don't tell anyone else. Make sure the Ford Dealer tops the reservoir off with new fluid before you leave the shop. Chum lee
Chum lee 03/04/20 05:15pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: TSD Fuel Card

On the west side of the U.S. Rockies, Kroger Foods (Ralphs, Smiths, Fryess, etc.) offer fuel points when you make a purchase using your rewards card at their participating stores. If you work the plan (getting bonus points) you can save up to $1.00/gallon for up to 35 gallons of any fuel they sell, . . . . every month. Not bad. Chum lee
Chum lee 03/04/20 01:18pm General RVing Issues
RE: Another Oldie Not Mine

Nice job! They didn't show the one pic that I really wanted to see. The engine compartment. (well, . . . . . the suspension and steering too) Chum lee
Chum lee 03/04/20 01:11pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: F53 brake master cylinder failure

The motorhome is still under warranty (Ford) until June so I took it to a large Ford truck dealership that's nearby. I called today to get a status and the service rep said they were waiting on a part, some type of cylinder. I am assuming he was referring to the brake master cylinder. I only have a little over 11K miles on the motorhome. Is this type of failure common on the F53 chases? I haven't seen much mention of master cylinder failures on the F53 so I am hoping this is an isolated incident. Burch IMO, chances are it IS an isolated incident. At the age/mileage of your motorhome, it is not a common failure, but, it does happen. Watch the brake fluid level in the master cylinder in the future. It should go down slowly over time as the brake pads wear, but it should never go below the "MIN" level between brake pad changes. Only use the specified brake fluid if you need to top off. (see your owners manual or the reservoir on the MC) Chum lee
Chum lee 03/04/20 01:05pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Alternator power

Johno02 wrote: "Would it be practical to use an auto alternator attached to a water power turbine to maintain a 12v battery bank?? Has anyone done it successfully?? To provide some power for an off-grid RV location in particular? Yes it is possible, and, it has been done, but, for anything other than a science experiment, it is NOT very practical. You would be much better off generating a higher voltage (like 120 Volts) using alternating current when you generate hydro power. Nicola Tesla laughed at Thomas Edison for years because Mr. Edison initially didn't understand "why" either. He did eventually figure it out though. Chum lee
Chum lee 03/02/20 01:08pm Tech Issues
RE: Generator at High Altitude

Chances are that your generator will work fine @ +-5000' MSL without changing the jet. However, you may experience a few anomalies over time. Using the low altitude jet at higher elevations WILL cause the air/fuel mixture to be rich of stoichiometric. That will cause the exhaust to contain excessive unburned hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide and it may carbon up over time. The generator will use more fuel than necessary. You may also experience occasional spark plug fouling and the lubricating oil may become fuel saturated. If you change the jet, make sure you change it back if you descend in altitude and use the generator. If you don't and use the generator under higher/full load, the generator will now run lean causing excessive cylinder head/exhaust gas temperatures which may cause engine damage. Chum lee
Chum lee 03/02/20 12:53pm Tech Issues
RE: Investing in "EcoPro Products" Protection

Just like they say in the anti-drug commercials "Just Say No". Everybody knows that Nancy Reagan's "Just Say No" program will never work. (for anything) Why? (you ask) Because it's very impolite. Even the First Lady should know that the proper response is, "No, thank you!" You're welcome. Chum lee
Chum lee 03/01/20 02:07pm General RVing Issues
RE: Here we go again yet another Trombetta "Big Boy" failure!

Just a question. Where does this 300 amps (charging) come from for continuous use? Very few automotive type alternators will produce 300 amps, (@14 volts) continuous, for battery charging purposes. IME, when solenoids/relays regularly fail, it's because they get too hot. That can be a result of small wire size on the signal circuit, or, too much resistance on the main load (switched/charging) circuit. When you say the solenoid is warm, . . . . . how warm is it? Too hot to touch? Chum lee
Chum lee 02/28/20 12:38pm Tech Issues
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