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 > Your search for posts made by 'Chum lee' found 140 matches.

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RE: 2001 Fleetwood Southwind Front-end sags

Hello Everyone, I have a 2001 Fleetwood Southwind. It is a nightmare to try and level. The front end sits pretty lower than is should. I replaced the airbags, but that did not solve the problem I am guessing the only thing it could be is the springs. Does anyone else have any other ideas? Thanks, Rob Content deleted as it offered no valve to the discussion.
Chum lee 02/25/21 11:06pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Check Engine Light...Going on 5 years & 20,000 miles...

"The K&N filter might have something to do with your issues. From what I understand, even slightly over-oiling the filter can lead to a fouled MAF sensor, which sounds like it may be one of the things contributing to your CEL codes." "When I bought this 2007 RV in 2015, it was 8 years old, but had only 9,000 miles on it. With so few miles at the time, my guess is that the prior owner never cleaned the K&N filter, and therefore, over-oiling of the filter isn't causing MAF sensor problems. Nevertheless, I will be cleaning the MAF sensor in case it's gotten dirty for any reason." The following is strictly MY opinion from years of direct experience. (with K & N air filters) Whenever I see a K & N air filter, I do the following: 1. Remove the K & N air filter and all related components. 2. Hold the filter above the appropriate sized waste receptacle. 3. Open your hand. 4. If the filter falls into the waste receptacle, go to step 6. 5. If the filter fails to fall into the waste receptacle, repeat steps 2 and 3 until it does, then go to step 6. 6. Replace the K & N filter with a new OEM pleated paper element. If the OEM airbox and other intake components have previously been removed/modified, you will need to replace them. Look for a vacuum leak in the intake system. When the engine is running rough (cold) spray propane (unlit from a torch) around all the vacuum hoses and connections on the engine. When the engine smooths out, you found the leak. Or, it's sufficiently warm to run smoothly. In that case you'll need to start again later, . . . . when the engine is cold. Chum lee
Chum lee 02/22/21 01:34pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Ev charging in camps expectation of availability, cost

As a business owner, (non clock puncher/salary earner) for most of my adult life, sometimes the cost of creating the appearance of doing well in spite of not doing well is worth the price. (of course, you cannot do this all the time long term, . . search Ponzi schemes) I don't decide for anyone else. For example, if you own an RV Park (which I don't) with a 50% vacancy rate, IMO, you have to do something to boost sales because you are losing money on ALL the vacant spaces which cost you a fixed amount per space per night. If you let someone with an RV&EV stay there and even though they use an excess amount (beyond your estimated amount) of electricity, it's still better than getting nothing at all from a vacant space. Tell them they have to stay three nights for the given rate. This is casino thinking. In retail, it's called a loss leader. Of course, . . . if you have a 10% or less vacancy rate, ALL THE TIME, none of this applies and you SHOULD charge a premium, especially for SPECIAL people. No freebies. Chum leeThat Casino is selling something other than the loss leader item. (Really? Ever heard of a jackpot or an all you can eat buffet?) The RV park is usually a one trick pony, that being site rental. When you start discounting to fill sites you often lose revenue since those people that would’ve paid full price are now only paying the discounted rate. Plus there is nothing that guarantees a single additional site rental if they did offer a lower rate or reduced electrical charges etc. IMO, the casino, as a business model, is not that different from an RV park. They sell space (rooms), services (hookups) and entertainment (neighbors). As I previously said, if you have a minimal vacancy rate, you have no need to offer freebies (discounts). You seem to fail in grasping that concept. It's when you DON'T, . . that's the problem. VOLUME! Have you ever heard people in the entertainment industry say, "There's no bad publicity!" Why? Because it generates buzz. (volume) In our current social media controlled society, people talk to each other all the time. IMO, when you gracefully accommodate potential good customers, they say nice things about you to others. (which further generates buzz/business) When you don't, . . . . well, . . . just look at this website. I'm not selling anything here. Initially, I hated most of my instructors in the school of "hard knocks", but eventually, . . . . I graduated, and . . . I'm still learning. We could go on and on comparing similarities/differences. Just do what works for you. Chum lee
Chum lee 02/17/21 10:10am General RVing Issues
RE: Ev charging in camps expectation of availability, cost

As a business owner, (non clock puncher/salary earner) for most of my adult life, sometimes the cost of creating the appearance of doing well in spite of not doing well is worth the price. (of course, you cannot do this all the time long term, . . search Ponzi schemes) I don't decide for anyone else. For example, if you own an RV Park (which I don't) with a 50% vacancy rate, IMO, you have to do something to boost sales because you are losing money on ALL the vacant spaces which cost you a fixed amount per space per night. If you let someone with an RV&EV stay there and even though they use an excess amount (beyond your estimated amount) of electricity, it's still better than getting nothing at all from a vacant space. Tell them they have to stay three nights for the given rate. This is casino thinking. In retail, it's called a loss leader. Of course, . . . if you have a 10% or less vacancy rate, ALL THE TIME, none of this applies and you SHOULD charge a premium, especially for SPECIAL people. No freebies. Chum lee
Chum lee 02/16/21 01:40pm General RVing Issues
RE: Be Thankful Your Ford V10 Is The 2-Valve Version

Yes, in spite of the "knowledge" you glean from the internet, the engineers at Ford actually do an exhaustive amount of engine research. Even so, they still make mistakes, . . . . just like everyone else. (What a surprise!) When they tell you to change the oil at 5000 miles, they don't just pull that info from their hind quarters. IMO, THEY MEAN IT! My 1999 F53 V10 is a 2 valve SOHC 275 Hp engine. At a later date (I'm not sure the exact year, you can look it up) it was upped to the 3 valve (315 Hp) and later to the 365 Hp engine. IMO, a phenomenal achievement for a truck engine without changing the displacement. As someone who worked in a Ford parts department, I can tell you that if you go to the Ford factory parts website, you can look up the part number for the oil pump on the V10, 2 valve vs. the 3 valve. If it's the same, the pump is the same. If it's different, the pumps are different in some way. (maybe oil pressure, maybe flow, I don't know) You can look at the Ford Factory Service Manuals for that. They (Ford) may also use a different oil pressure relief valve, which you can also look up. Not that hard. Chum lee
Chum lee 02/16/21 12:15pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: best way to test house batteries ?

I test with them separate. Then check each with the hydrometer after they set for an hour or so. I also check each cell with the volt meter after the hydrometer test. How do you check an individual cell with a volt meter? With most modern automotive wet cell batteries, . . . you can't. You can only check the total individual battery voltage. (without damaging the battery casing) With some older automotive wet cell batteries, like pre 1970's, you quite easily could. With some modern industrial wet cell batteries you still can. Tesla, Hybrid batteries (Li-ion), . . . you usually can. These batteries aren't generally used in RV applications. Chum lee
Chum lee 02/13/21 10:18am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Flush Transmission and Radiator?

Hey All, I have a 2006 Chateau Sport (Class C) Chevy Express RV with about 60,000 miles on it. The previous owner took pretty good care of it, and I picked it up with about 38,000 miles on it. It's always been stored in a storage unit and is in really nice condition inside and out. It's my first RV and I've loved owning it. Thanks in advance for your knowledge and advice. Sounds like you got a great deal. Read the factory owners manual. Find the service schedule. Do what it says. Use the factory specified fluids. It's that simple. Chum lee
Chum lee 02/11/21 04:54pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Is this doable or am I overlooking something??

It can be done and as others have stated - it is done but technically two power sources into one structure is a code violation. Well, . . . . , that's a pretty broad statement. I'm not sure what local codes you're referencing. You didn't mention any. Have you ever heard of . . . . . SOLAR PANELS on the power grid? (two separate power sources going into the same structure) You need not reply. Chum lee
Chum lee 02/01/21 07:10pm Tech Issues
RE: Is this doable or am I overlooking something??

For short term non-metered sites, they typically ask what your RV is (30 or 50 amp). Also, if you read the fine print on the rental agreement, it often mentions using additional outlets. So the owner would be very much within their rights to limit usage to a single outlet. You might get away with it but that doesn't make it right. When I bought my membership I was driving a 50 amp RV. the sales person promised me "Full Hookups" that's water, sewer, 50 amps and she even mentioned Wi-Fi. Thus I paid for 50 amps. and if the park only has 30's I'm going to use that 2nd cord. Well, . . . . you quoted me, and then posted what "others" said, but, . . . . I think I get your point. Chum lee
Chum lee 01/29/21 08:05pm Tech Issues
RE: Class A travel without interstates

Hi guys, Class A motorhomes are the largest RV’s and generally need a bit more space to navigate than others. I’m curious how many of you avoid interstates for smaller towns and middle America? I’m reading more and more about folks, especially with Class A’s, wanting to stay clear of cities like Atlanta, St Lewis, Chicago, Kansas City, Denver etc. Are you included in this group? I think some of the worse cities I’ve ever driven through is Atlanta and St Louis and I’ll go through great lengths to avoid them. Are you one of them? And have you found a good GPS that makes the routing around these big cities easier to deal with? Or have you found a map or atlas works better? Thanks to all I currently drive a 30' Class A MH, I live in it, and, I have for the last 10 years. Driving it around, . . . . I think of myself as a long haul trucker, (I know I'm not) but I have to act like one for the purpose of logistics. I'm not your typical SUV. I GET that. That said, I (you) as a US citizen, have value, as a tourist, throughout the USA. I'm also a private pilot. I would NEVER think of landing my aircraft (or parking my RV) in any place that wasn't accepting/prepared for me. Chum lee
Chum lee 01/27/21 06:15pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Is this doable or am I overlooking something??

I'm not in denial that it doesn't cost the CG more. Hwevrer for the most part these cost are negligible. For every guy running a 2nd codr there is someone staying in a tent or someone gone for the day and using minimal electric. If electric cost where truly a profit and loss nightmare CG's would go to a metered format. However most do not simply because its not necessary. They set a price a build in a can't lose allowance for electric. Now I agree there are CG's with wiring issues and CG's that feel they are being taking advantage of that prohibit 2nd cords. My current rig is 50 amp so I can run a couple of space heaters microwave etc. with no issues. Occasionally I end up on a 30 amp site, when 50 amp site are unavailable. Many state parks have only 30 amp sites. In this scenario, I will use a 2nd cord to run my 2nd A/C when required. I have my A/C wired through a transfer switch that allows me to chose 2nd cord circuit or internal (normal) 50 amp circuit. When electricity is included in the overnight rates, the owner has factored that into the pricing. 50amp sites are almost always higher priced and one of the big reasons for that is 50amp rigs use more power. Likewise, tent sites are often lower cost. For an individual renter, $6/night may sound negligible but when you multiply that out over 30 days per month and dozens of sites, it quickly becomes very significant for the owner.When a park offers electricity (or any other amenity) as inclusive in the price that park has made that decision based on "average" usage. When a renter wants to add additional loads to those amenities beyond normal usage the park may need to place safeguards in their policies and procedures to prevent that from happening. We learned that lesson the hard way. At our first park, when we were new to the business, we took some winter guests. We did not have metered electric, so we just went with our normal monthly rate. Little did we know that those guests would electrically heat everything. They used space heaters inside their rig. They had heat tape on all their lines. They even placed space heaters under their rigs, open to the outdoor air. They got that additional power by using every available outlet on the pedestal plus ran additional cords to the neighboring pedestals. Our normal in season power bill ran around $100.00 per rented site. That winter the power cost us over $600.00 per rented site. The site rental didn't even cover the power, much less the water, Sewer, cable TV, Wifi, Snow Removal, costs of keeping the restrooms open etc. It ended up being a multi-thousand dollar lesson learned. Years of experience has taught us that you never know what lurks inside the RV you just rented a site to. It might just be a single space heater that would only add pennies to the power bill. However, it might someone who feels it is fine to run 10 space heaters and leave the windows and doors wide open when it is -10F. Heck, someday it might even be a mobile server farm that is mining for Bitcoins that if given free range will suck up $100s of dollars of power a day. I am truly sorry to read this and, clearly, you have been taken advantage of. (hopefully, only a few times) I assure you, RV'ers, at least where I come from, are generally NOT like this. (IME, some are complete slobs, which is obvious) Others need to be 86'ed immediately. Live and learn. Get some night vision goggles, (infra red and fairly cheap) and patrol the campground daily and at night when its cold out. You'll spot the abusers right away. Chum lee
Chum lee 01/23/21 10:01pm Tech Issues
RE: Is this doable or am I overlooking something??

If you pay for a 20, 30, or 50 amp unmetered space, (electricity is included in the daily/weekly rate) IMO, you can use all the plugs available at the pedestal in YOUR campsite. You can add additional extension cords, if needed. If the campground owner/manager complains, have them move you to (or charge you for) a larger service/space. (which will, most likely, be more expensive) Do not attempt to argue with with people who do not understand how electricity works. Simply move to another campground. You have it backwards. If you are paying a metered rate, as long as all the plugs go thru the meter and it doesn't start popping breakers, use what you want...you will pay for what you use. For short term non-metered sites, they typically ask what your RV is (30 or 50 amp). Also, if you read the fine print on the rental agreement, it often mentions using additional outlets. So the owner would be very much within their rights to limit usage to a single outlet. You might get away with it but that doesn't make it right. Oh for God's sake, IMO, you've never owned a profitable business. So, . . . the "fine print" you've read covers ALL rental agreements? I don't think so. This is just boilerplate for those too lazy/stupid to read/think for themselves and apply it to whats currently "up." Am I encouraging RV'ers to steal from RV Parks? NO. I am not. Just the reverse. In most cases we're talking ignorance and pennies here. Sure, . . . . you can be right. When I was about twelve years old, (I'm 67 now) I remember reading a biography about Henry Ford. The author mentioned Henry's constant annoyance with his bean counter penny pinching bookkeeper/accountant who knew "the price of everything, but, the value of nothing." I've respected you to this point. I will no longer read your posts. Chum lee
Chum lee 01/20/21 08:09pm Tech Issues
RE: Is this doable or am I overlooking something??

We use our trailer a lot during the winter and in COLD weather. Normally we use the propane furnace but it gobbles propane. The trailer is connected to the 30 amp outlet on the park post BUT when we try to use an electric space heater to help, the post breaker often trips when the microwave or other appliance is used. Any thoughts about connecting a separate power cord from the park 15 amp pedestal outlet/breaker then routing it into the trailer to power the electric space heater??? had to ask . If you pay for a 20, 30, or 50 amp unmetered space, (electricity is included in the daily/weekly rate) IMO, you can use all the plugs available at the pedestal in YOUR campsite. You can add additional extension cords, if needed. If the campground owner/manager complains, have them move you to (or charge you for) a larger service/space. (which will, most likely, be more expensive) Do not attempt to argue with with people who do not understand how electricity works. Simply move to another campground. Chum leeTwo things: One, it is not YOUR campsite. It is the park's. They have an absolute right to set any rules and conditions they deem fit as long as they do not violate the law. If the park wants to limit pedestal usage to one connection, then one connection is all you are entitled to use. Second, it has nothing to do with understanding electricity. There may be many reasons to not allow additional connections. It may very well be an economic decision or it might be a wiring or capacity issue. Regardless, it is the park's decision to set policies. You do have the right solution, if you don't like the policies, move on. So . . . . where do we disagree? (a distinction without a difference) Do you HAVE something (anything really) valuable to say . . . . BECAUSE YOU CAN? This is why I HATE social media. Chum lee
Chum lee 01/18/21 04:02pm Tech Issues
RE: Is this doable or am I overlooking something??

We use our trailer a lot during the winter and in COLD weather. Normally we use the propane furnace but it gobbles propane. The trailer is connected to the 30 amp outlet on the park post BUT when we try to use an electric space heater to help, the post breaker often trips when the microwave or other appliance is used. Any thoughts about connecting a separate power cord from the park 15 amp pedestal outlet/breaker then routing it into the trailer to power the electric space heater??? had to ask You fail to mention the most critical information to answer your question. Is your campground space short term or long term (daily, weekly, monthly, other) AND is the pedestal you plug into metered or not? If it's metered/measured AND you pay long term rates, you will most likely be charged (separately) for every kilowatt of electricity you use. (regardless of the electrical capacity of your trailer) If it's not metered/measured, AND/OR you are paying short term rates, the electricity is most likely included in your short term campground fee. If you pay for a 20, 30, or 50 amp unmetered space, (electricity is included in the daily/weekly rate) IMO, you can use all the plugs available at the pedestal in YOUR campsite. You can add additional extension cords, if needed. If the campground owner/manager complains, have them move you to (or charge you for) a larger service/space. (which will, most likely, be more expensive) Do not attempt to argue with with people who do not understand how electricity works. Simply move to another campground. In my 30' Class A MH (30 amp service) I use an additional 25' 12 gauge 3 wire copper extension cord all the time. My 6 gallon gas/electric water heater has a separate 120 volt exterior plug JUST for that purpose. In cold climates I run the extension cord inside and plug it in to a 1500 watt space heater (water heater unplugged) all the time. I'm not interested in hearing from "others" who can't figure this out. Instead, . . . . just do what you're going to do. Hint: In an RV with a 30 amp service, you cannot use ALL the electrical consumers at the same time. You MUST manage your electrical consumption or you'll trip the main breaker at the pedestal or at your load center. (or you'll start a fire) Your choice! Chum lee
Chum lee 01/18/21 12:36pm Tech Issues
RE: Steering wheel vibration

I saw a video of a test drive on a 2015 F/W Bounder, and noticed the steering wheel had quite a bit of vibration traveling down a smooth highway. I have also heard that this is normal on the F53 frames for the class A gassers. Some even say that this vibration contributes to driver fatigue after about 4 to 5 hours on the road. So, my question is...Is this normal for the F53's and is it really an issue? Thanks....Skip NO! If properly weighted/adjusted/balanced/serviced/repaired your F53 will ride smooth as glass. (mine does) If you have issues,. . . . well, see above. Chum lee
Chum lee 12/24/20 04:27pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Refrigerator draw on LP mode

Chum Lee, The absorption fridge in my class C uses 5.7 KWH per day (measured with a kill-a-watt meter). That is with an ambient temperature of about 68 f (20 c). Running it from solar would require 1100 watts of panels and 4 SiO2 batteries (6 would be better). It would use less 120 volt power to run a residential fridge. Duty cycle is 2:3 (measured). Thanks for your post. I do appreciate what you do. I am a professional paid engineer. (and a **** good one at that) I deal with reality everyday. When I say/suggest my solar panels generate 140 watts, I'm not talking about the manufacturers published wattage, I'm talking about what they actually do, . . . sitting here, right now. I keep track. Currently, I have 3-240 watt Kyocera panels flat mounted on the roof, an MPPT controller and a 1000 watt PSW inverter. I'm not giving away all the details of what I do to make it work. Hire me if you want to know. Chum lee
Chum lee 12/05/20 06:20pm Tech Issues
RE: Refrigerator draw on LP mode

Chum Lee, The absorption fridge in my class C uses 5.7 KWH per day (measured with a kill-a-watt meter). That is with an ambient temperature of about 68 f (20 c). Running it from solar would require 1100 watts of panels and 4 SiO2 batteries (6 would be better). It would use less 120 volt power to run a residential fridge. Duty cycle is 2:3 (measured). Don, thanks for your post. Your are a little bit north of where I live. (South/West USA) The solar angles vary greatly. Of course, you need more solar panels in your location than I do. You haven't mentioned what you pay for propane/electricity so can't say as much as I would like to in this format. Chum lee
Chum lee 12/03/20 08:12pm Tech Issues
RE: Refrigerator draw on LP mode

I tried to run my absorption RV fridge on 120v this summer off inverter with 800+ watts of solar flat on the roof in good sunshine. It didn't work out. 325w on 120v was 30 some amps draw by the inverter. I only got over 30 amps from solar around lunch time. Most of the day and all night I was losing. Gottaluv propane mode for off-grid! Yeah, yeah, all you "experts" tell me something won't work, yet, I'm still doing it. The problem must be with me. Chum lee
Chum lee 12/03/20 07:11pm Tech Issues
RE: Refrigerator draw on LP mode

Yes, I can read. (thank you!) Yes, absorbtion refrigerators ARE very efficient, (you are incorrect) that's why they are used in RV's in the first place. Ooops, ya missed that one didn't you? Absorption fridges are quite a bit less energy efficient than compressor-based residential fridges (in terms of total energy use). The main reason they're used in RVs is that they use an energy source that is much more easily stored compactly: propane has a much higher energy density than electric batteries. A residential fridge will use somewhere in the rough vicinity of a third the power that an RV fridge will use if both are operated from AC power. DC-powered compressor fridges are usually pretty efficient...and not all that inexpensive. Their DC consumption is higher than an absorption fridge's DC power use in propane mode, of course, since it's providing the actual energy to cool rather than just powering the controls. I agree with you. Propane is much more energy dense than storage batteries. (at least right now) In an RV, you have to deal with what you have based on where you are. (energy wise) With a 2/3 way absorbtion fridge you have the flexibility of using gas or electric. IMO, you can talk about energy efficiency all you want. Depending on what you are doing (with your RV) if the most efficient/economical source of energy isn't currently available, IMO, it's kind of idiotic to speak as though it is. I boon dock off grid a lot. I like my solar panels. Are they perfect, . . . NO. Do they substantially reduce the need to run my generator (which produces electricity at about $.80/kwh) YES they do. Do I sometimes plug in to full service campgrounds, (electricity at $.15 to $.25 /kwh) Yes I do. Do I suggest how you should use your RV, . . . NO, I don't. Chum lee
Chum lee 12/03/20 06:07pm Tech Issues
RE: Refrigerator draw on LP mode

I don't understand why you are doing what you are doing. In the larger scheme of things, the electricity (12 volt) to run the board/valve is negligible. If you are going solar, why not consider running the fridge on 120 volts through a 120 volt inverter, solar panels, controller, and a battery bank, (probably 4-6 volt wet cells) eliminating the need to use propane at all? (at least for the fridge) IMO, you could do that with 3-140 watt panels (if you have room) and have plenty of solar power for most everything else too. You don't state what vehicle you have. (maybe the clue lies there) Chum lee You are mistaken there for sure. OPs RV fridge uses a very inefficient "absorption" system which relies on gravity to make things happen instead of a quicker compressor. This type of fridge requires considerable amount of heat input to cool a very tiny space.. The RV absorbsion fridges use a 325W or so 120V heating element.. Gonna take a huge solar panel array to make up for a 325W heating element.. So, instead of camping with a 100W-300W solar array, they would need to increase that to 600W, possibly 1,000W of solar and add quite a few batteries to their system.. Now, IF you were talking a 120V compressor fridge then it IS possible to work the solar angle with not much investment since fridge compressor uses 90W at 120V instead of a RV fridge heater of 325W.. BUT, we are not talking a compressor fridge here.. In this case, using propane is the better and wiser thing to do instead of carrying a thousand watts worth of panels. Keep in mind that with most modern RV fridges, the control board does need 12V and that IS what the OP was inquiring about. Yes, I can read. (thank you!) Yes, absorbtion refrigerators ARE very efficient, (you are incorrect) that's why they are used in RV's in the first place. Ooops, ya missed that one didn't you? I do understand how they work. When in electric mode, the 325 watt 120 volt heating element operates on a duty cycle, (just like the propane flame) far less than 100%, unless it's in start up cooling mode or you keep the refrigerator door open. You will need more than the standard battery (2 batteries) bank to insure reliability over the night and in times of cloud cover. For extended periods lacking solar, you can simply switch back to propane, if necessary. Please excuse me while I go get a cold beverage from my solar powered Dometic 2652 absorbtion fridge, which, . . . . doesn't work. Chum lee
Chum lee 12/03/20 11:58am Tech Issues
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