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 > Your search for posts made by 'Dayle1' found 36 matches.

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RE: Fifth Wheel Slide Question

Totally normal, with under floor mechanism it is the only way to keep pressure on the upper slide seal to keep it weather tight in normal use. If you look at the movie 'RV' with Robin Williams, when he makes the fast right hand turn at the beginning of the movie, the top of the main slide tilts out about 8" during that turn.
Dayle1 03/29/19 07:28am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Sliding Hitch

You don't need a slider if you can remember to pay attention. But as already stated some of that depends on the variables. Bed length is not an issue. Cab-to-axle (CA) distance is , GM is the longest, Ford just a little less and Ram is the shortest. Then fiver cap design is the other big factor. Regardless of setup, you will not get into trouble making a 90 degree forward turn, the steerable wheels of the truck can only turn about 36-37 degrees max. So, a 90 degree turn at full steering cut will only result in a truck to trailer angle of around 45 degrees. You cannot make a 180 degree turn at maximum steering cut, but you can make a 180 degree turn at less than max. steering cut. Where you will get into trouble is when jockeying back and forth to get into a camp site. That is if you try and get by with the least maneuvering. In 30+ yrs, I've never found a spot I couldn't get into if I was willing to take a little extra time maneuvering. Four SB trucks and 7 fifth wheels and never made contact between truck and fiver.
Dayle1 02/26/19 04:32pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: power wheelchaird in camper

My wife had ALS and passed away in August. But I did a lot of research and modifications to cover her needs. First was the toy hauler, but one that had the bathroom next to the garage so she wouldn't have to climb steps to the upper level. Second, I removed the double queen lift beds and installed a hospital bed to the lift mechanism to make more room for wheelchairs and other medical equipment. Third, I purchased the Whill model Ci electric wheel chair, weighs only 115 lbs, breaks down into 3 pieces and is more maneuverable than any other chair. Her Phillips breathing machine fit under the chair rather than hanging out behind it. Finally, I bought a Multi-Lift. It is a battery operated sling lift with a 6 ft working radius and sufficient vertical lift to go from a wheelchair outside the camper to another chair or bed inside the camper. And it will maneuver the sling thru a 24" wide door. It will only lift 275 lbs. But in 5 min., I could break down the Whill, move it outside and reassemble it, pick her up with the sling and move her outside and put her in the wheelchair. Because the Multi-Lift is portable, I also fabricated several mounting points inside our house so when we weren't traveling, I could use the lift inside the house for transfers from bed to wheelchair, wheelchair to toilet and wheelchair to living room chair. All of my modifications to the toyhauler and house were reversible. The toyhauler was traded in and the house is now for sale. I also used a Braun transfer lift seat in my truck. It is set up for the passengers side, but as I recall it can be configured for either side. My son works for a mobility conversion company and he knows all the details. He is storing the Multi-Lift and transfer seat. Send me a PM if you want more details or questions.
Dayle1 02/25/19 06:57pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: 5th wheel frame recall repair

If you buy the trailer, there are ways to measure how much flex is in the frame between hooked and unhooked from the tow vehicle. Then you can decide if this specific unit needs repair or not.
Dayle1 02/23/19 05:24pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Adding 2nd air, converting from 30 amp to 50 amp

I have a suggestion for your electricians. Instead of R&Ring the current AC distribution panel simply put in a 50amp panel and run a 30 amp circuit to current panel and set another panel for the new air cond. leaving spaces for future add on's. That is what I did on previous unit. An 8 slot panel (2 for the main). The existing 30 amp panel now becomes a sub panel and some of the existing circuits can be moved from it to extra slots on the new panel to help balance the load. Surface mount wiring also is ez, Legrande plastic from Lowes can handle romex 12/2 w gnd. I used it to add a 20 amp outlet in the garage of a toyhauler from the existing A/C down to the sidewall for an electric heater. Just cut a small notch in the A/C shroud for the wire chase to exit (or in your case, enter) the A/C. Biggest cost is the new 50 amp power cord.
Dayle1 02/01/19 08:02pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Another Fiberglass Body Question

Unfortunately thats normal. It's where the Luan backer butts together. Some MFG's use two layers overlapping on the exterior which may or may not alleviate some of those vertical dimples. I've got a few on my 5er. Been that way for 6 years. Yep, the bulges are at the edge of each panel and should be visible every 48 inches.
Dayle1 01/16/19 06:54pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Advice needed on Slide Repair

I agree with using SS strips under the rollers, that is a common solution for the weight issue. Most of the problem is where the weight of the slideout sits on the roller when the slideout is retracted. Going down the road, the slideout will bounce up when you hit a bump and them impact the roller. So make sure you use thick enough SS to handle that impact. The underlying problem is that the plastic is there to protect the wood from water intrusion from below. But it also will trap any water that leaks in from above and then prevents the wood from drying out. Your fiberglass and resin will have the same problem. So, it has to rot. Weep holes would be better or no plastic, just paint the underside of the plywood with an exterior paint, make sure there are no leaks from above (like around window frames), and inspect frequently.
Dayle1 12/18/18 11:44am Tech Issues
RE: RV Quality

I would disagree with your premise, there is nothing significantly better with the Volvo than the Camry to justify a $40k difference. Quality, reliability, ride quality, resale value, etc. make the Camry and many other low end cars very good choices. Now the Yugo would be a different story. It is the prestige that makes the Volvo worth $40k more. But I agree with your conclusion about RVs, quality is bad regardless of price. And the more things, features, bling you add to an RV, the more problems you are likely to have. There are maybe a few exceptions, Airstream (you pay a lot for quality with few extras), other brands as well, both expensive and inexpensive. My $30k unit seems to be an exception, better quality than my last 3 units spanning 18 yrs.
Dayle1 12/08/18 09:06am Fifth-Wheels
RE: New to 5th wheel. Question on slider/pin for crew cab.

The sidewinder is your best choice, it moves the pivot back about 20 inches and you can use a lightweight 15K or 16K fifth wheel hitch (under 150 lbs). Auto sliding hitches are heavier and may not slide back far enough to work with under 6 ft bed lengths. The sidewinder has two other benefits, it makes the fifth wheel track more like a TT, so it will not cut inside the truck track as much when taking corners. Also, when backing up, the trailer will react faster to steering changes (which can be dangerous if not paying attention) so you need less space for maneuvering. Make sure your truck has LT tires and you are not exceeding the truck's rear GAWR.
Dayle1 11/26/18 05:10pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: First trip with Andersen Ultimate Hitch

here is what Anderson says about chains ...I'm just passing on info https://help.andersenhitches.com/faq/do-i-have-to-have-safety-chains-for-my-ultimate-fifth-wheel-connection Something strange about their statements that does not add up. On their website, the product description for the coupler says And since the coupler rides on a ball, it has more swivel in every direction than any other 5th wheel hitch available.. Yet the FAQ wants to claim there is no ball pivot. It says specificallyThe Andersen Ultimate Connection does not utilize a latch nor does it pivot at the point of the ball. Which is totally false. When you attach their coupler to the 2" king pin, the point of connection is clearly a ball connection just like any other. Totally false ??? , you missed the ball on that one, no pun intended . What it is saying is there is no pivot at the point of connection .The Andersen hitch sits on the gooseneck ball in the bed of the truck, and there is no pivot point there. The pivot point is at the king pin connection with the hitch, same as any other conventional fifth wheel hitch that pivots at that point of connection , yes the Andersen does have more pivot. A gooseneck hitch pivots at the ball in the bed of the truck . Totally two different points of pivoting . totally two different style of hitches. The Andersen Ultimate is no more a gooseneck hitch then the B&W. They both have the same thing in common they both attach to the bed with a gooseneck ball. Get over the fact that it is NOT a gooseneck hitch. The Andersen hitch try as much as you like to say its different ,but the point of connection ,and the point of pivot is the same as any other conventional hitch. The grey area is the adapter on the kingpin to utilize the ball at the top of the hitch . We can argue the need for chains as much as you like, but facts remains on the reasons for chains on ball connection hitches. None of those apply to the Andersen .Would I lose a case in an incident with the Andersen without chains , probably. And most likely because some states don't have the good sense to know the difference . Sorry, I understand that the point of connection for the HITCH is at the GN ball and it does not pivot. In that respect the Andersen HITCH is no different than a B&W Companion HITCH. That is how both hitches are secured to the truck, one uses an actual ball, the other uses the ball socket. Forget about that version, the rail version is secured with 4 pins just like many true fifth wheel hitches. But for both versions, Andersen adds a coupler, that is part of the hitch system and totally required for it to function. That coupler changes the final hook up point from being a pin connection to a ball connection. It is that final connection that needs the chains. Chains aren't needed as a backup in case the hitch disconnects from the truck, but in case the coupler disconnects from the ball at the top of the hitch. The Andersen is a ball connection just like any other ball connection and the reason for chains is just as valid. Consider a conventional TT setup, the law doesn't require chains between the receiver and the truck or even between the hitch head and the truck. They are required between the trailer and the truck because the final connection is a ball connection. Simple.
Dayle1 11/03/18 09:08pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: First trip with Andersen Ultimate Hitch

here is what Anderson says about chains ...I'm just passing on info https://help.andersenhitches.com/faq/do-i-have-to-have-safety-chains-for-my-ultimate-fifth-wheel-connection Something strange about their statements that does not add up. On their website, the product description for the coupler says And since the coupler rides on a ball, it has more swivel in every direction than any other 5th wheel hitch available.. Yet the FAQ wants to claim there is no ball pivot. It says specificallyThe Andersen Ultimate Connection does not utilize a latch nor does it pivot at the point of the ball. Which is totally false. When you attach their coupler to the 2" king pin, the point of connection is clearly a ball connection just like any other.
Dayle1 11/02/18 06:31pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: First trip with Andersen Ultimate Hitch

Seeing that my last inquiry disappeared ,I will try again. Could you please reference a link where it states thats chains are required for an Andersen Fifth wheel hitch. Would like to see it. Tried google, and did not see anything stating such a thing about the Andersen hitch We seem to get these statements with nothing but blind faith to go by , then some run right out ,and spend money on something thats not needed . How long has the Andersen been on the market? How often do you think your states highway laws are updated? It could be decades before anyone responsible for highway safety sits down and studies the differences between historical "ball" hitches and the Andersen, then concludes that it either does or does not need chains. Then writes a report that someone in the state legislature finally decides it is time to update the laws for your state. Anyway, you choose to obey the speed limit or not, you choose to use chains or not. Now, there is a very good technical reason why chains are required for historical "ball" connections. And that is because there are multiple ball sizes in use and an incorrect combination renders the normal safety pin or mechanism ineffective, hence safety chains. There is but one king pin size so every fifth wheel hitch is compatible with every king pin.
Dayle1 11/01/18 06:14pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Help shopping for new fiver

I just picked up a Starcraft Telluride 292RLS, under 32 ft length. Starcraft is part of Jayco, built in the same factory. Quality of workmanship, fit and finish is better than any previous units I have owned and equal to or better than many higher end units as well. The Telluride line is new and loaded with features. Quiet Zone ducted return A/C that really is quieter. Two pantries with motion sensing lights plus a coat closet. Solid surface countertop, fireplace, sofa makes into a king bed, normal size queen bed up front. The wardrobe slide has a window for cross ventilation, 9 drawer dresser with plenty of counter area. I'm 5-10" and have full headroom anywhere in the bedroom. 50 amp service and wired for 2nd A/C, two electric awnings. It is a light unit since all walls and both floors are vacuum laminated and minimal aluminum framing is used, because it isn't needed. Also means it is better insulated. Even the outside speakers are mounted on the awning arms rather than 4" holes in the walls. Price was less than my last two units and certainly a better value. Only limitation is the CCC is low.
Dayle1 10/13/18 03:46pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Fantastic Fan vs Maxxair vs something else

Maxxair MaxxFan Deluxe. Low profile when closed. Can be used when it's raining. Certain models also have auto temp mode to start when it starts getting warm inside. I agree, can't remember the model, but the lid can stay open even in the rain, with the fan running or not. The remote has programmable temp setting, 10 fan speeds and is reversible.
Dayle1 10/13/18 03:17pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Anyone knowledgeable about fifth wheel construction?

On some units, there is angle steel welded along the outside edge of the upper box steel frame. The bedroom wall sits on this ledge. Then there will be vertical screws thru the ledge and into the bottom edge of the wall. In other cases, the ledge is just a means of placing the wall and carriage bolts are installed horizontally thru the side wall and thru the box steel. If hung wall construction was used, then those bolt heads will be hidden under the fiberglass skin, but the nut should be visible on the backside of the box frame. I had such a unit that needed frame stiffening and with the front cap removed an extra carriage bolt was added thru the skin, but was then hidden once the front cap was re-installed. The carriage bolts were not crowned but an oversized flat head. It is also possible that horizontal carriage bolts were used but minus the angle steel ledge. And again they could be under the fiberglass skin.
Dayle1 10/12/18 02:06pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Mor-Ryde IS

I am looking at a 2011 Mobile Suites with Mor-Ryde IS suspension. Can anyone tell me the life expectancy of the rubber portion? I had it installed on a fifth wheel in 2004. In 2010 I sent pics to Mor-Ryde and they said the rubber was still fine. Traded the unit in 2011, so at least 7 yrs. Just to be sure, you can ask Mor-Ryde directly, they are pretty responsive.
Dayle1 10/09/18 07:08pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: The Odd's weren't with me : Keystone FRAME CRACK

That is a weak stress point in the wall, very common on many brands. Many now come from the Factory with a vertical cut at that point with a molding section inserted into the cut. I would do the measurements on King Pin movement and if within specs, make a clean cut where your crack/tear is and insert a section of molding to seal it. Agreed. One my previous 2006 rig I had a crack like that. Ran from the corner of the cut out about 3". I checked the crack with and without load on the pin box and it would open/close very little. My new rig has a factory applied vertical strip and I have seen them on many rigs.. I suspect the factory cut the side wall to allow a tiny bit of relief. Hopefully there is not a weld break or failure on your rig. Keep us posted. The OP's rig already has the cut and vertical trim piece. It is clearly visible in the pic. That didn't prevent his failure. So it is more than just minor flexing of the frame.
Dayle1 10/06/18 07:33pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: The Odd's weren't with me : Keystone FRAME CRACK

Well the good news .that's not a frame failure that's a wall stud weld failure theweld broke at the slide side wall and when slide pushed out it pushed the wall out causing the crack. Note the crack starts in the corner going outward Do you have Xray vision? LOL. I have seen more than one different brand of 5er with a crack in that same location due to frame flex and cracked welds or steel near the pinbox. What they all had in common was LCI. First key point would be how much does the pin flex loaded vs unloaded. If it is less than 1/2" then frame is OK, if more then frame and wall stud are both suspect. Just my opinion but I would expect just a hairline crack if the wall stud next to the slideout failed, not a significant gap.
Dayle1 10/06/18 06:20am Fifth-Wheels
RE: The Odd's weren't with me : Keystone FRAME CRACK

You need to understand where the frame has failed in order to define a fix. That means at least dropping the skin under the gooseneck to see everything. I had a unit that when the brand switched to the notched front cap, then the front crossmember also had to be notched rather that straight across. Only problem is that Lippert made the frame notch greater than was really needed. The front crossmember attached to the main frame just a few inches ahead of the rear crossmember. The result, too much flex. I didn't have a failure, but Lippert agreed the design was poor, they added a forward extension on the main frame rails and relocated the front crossmember further forward. Also extra stiffner for the rear crossmember. Result, less flex. Lippert changed the frame design on new units within a few weeks. My repaired unit was fine 6 yrs later when I traded it in. People don't realize that the trailer body, meaning walls, etc. help stiffen the frame, and if the attachment points between the frame and body fail or become loose, then again, the frame flexes too much w/o that extra support and something in the frame will then fail. Patching cracks in the skin does nothing for the underlying problem and cracks will return.
Dayle1 10/05/18 08:11pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: How to raise a slideout?

You can also buy special strips that you put on the main floor to keep from scratching the laminate. Can't recall what they are called, but Tweety's or another major on-line parts place should have them.
Dayle1 10/02/18 06:55pm Fifth-Wheels
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