Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Search
Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  



Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'Dirtyrhoades77' found 9 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Betteries disconnected, wall monitor showing full charge.

Is the top light on the display a ā€œCā€ as in charge? There's nothing like that on the monitor. Based on this thread I'll reconnect the freshly charged batteries and let it ride for now. I've already installed solar panels on the roof, and I'm waiting for battery cells to arrive. The end state will be a big 48 volt battery. From that I'll get a new, separate DC-DC converter to produce 12 volts, which I'll run to the DC fuse panel. Thanks for the input guys.
Dirtyrhoades77 08/13/21 09:03am Tech Issues
RE: Betteries disconnected, wall monitor showing full charge.

Thanks for the replies guys. I turned off the breaker that the converter is connected to, and of course it shows zero, as the wall monitor is a 12 volt device, so it didn't work at all. Just because it is plugged into shore power doesn't mean it should show full charge should it? That makes it entirely useless for checking battery levels. Surely it should be showing the actual level of the batteries, whether or not I'm plugged in, shouldn't it? It's labeled "Batt Cond" after all... The batteries are disconnected in the first place because they were way below 12 volts. The converter is not charging them, and while the batteries were disconnected to charge on a trickle charger, I noticed the wall monitor still says full. That can't the intended behavior. Something must be miswired.
Dirtyrhoades77 08/13/21 06:27am Tech Issues
Betteries disconnected, wall monitor showing full charge.

Hello all, My batteries are currently disconnected (both the chassis and coach) and the rig is on shore power, but the wall monitor still shows that the batteries are full. If they are disconnected, shouldn't it be showing empty? The converter is a Magnetek 6345.
Dirtyrhoades77 08/13/21 05:03am Tech Issues
RE: Mini-split in compartment

As for 48v, I can see what you guys are saying, but if I go 48, I'll then have to get a 48 to 24 converter for the fridge, and that's another component, and it's $150. My system probly won't ever go over 2000w, so I won't be outgrowing 24v, so I can't see any real advantage over 24. Maybe 48v mini splits are easier to find at the moment? Are 48v alternators easier to find? What other advantages are there besides more headroom for expansion? A 24 volt inverter has to carry twice the current for the same output load as a 48 volt unit. Your fridge is already 24 volt? That's a bit rare. I've never seen a 24 volt mini split--but that probably means when I was searching for DC powered air conditioners that the 48 volt ones 'jumped up' first. I don't have the 24v fridge yet, but jc-refrigeration.com sells replacement components for RV fridges. You pull it out, swap the components, and shove it back in. People seem to like them, and they have a 3y warranty, even up to 6 years. Best of all, no propane use and no inverter needed. I'm definitely doing that. As for the DC minisplits, I think behind all the rebranding I think there are very few manufacturers actually producing 48v, and I've found only one so far for 24v, and I'm trying to clarify some of their info, as it's inconsistent.
Dirtyrhoades77 03/07/21 08:59am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Mini-split in compartment

I would jump right to a 48 volt battery bank. Agreed, once you diverge from 12v may as well take good advantage of a higher voltage. Also, keep in mind for the spacing, that the 12" manufacturer spec you mention is likely based on the condenser being completely outside with no other restrictions. If fresh cool air can only enter from a relatively small slot from below, it may not meet the needs. Talk to the manufacturer and explain exactly what you are doing. Good point on the spacing. The opening would be the full 12" as the entire bottom would be open to the ground other than the two supports it would be sitting on, maybe unistrut, but maybe that's not enough. Surely any manufacturer would be against anything out of the norm so it's not worth the effort to explain it to them. There are guys on youtube that have done it to their Class As, and one manufacturer is even offering it as an option on a new model. Stuffed right into the compartment below. It's pretty cool. As for 48v, I can see what you guys are saying, but if I go 48, I'll then have to get a 48 to 24 converter for the fridge, and that's another component, and it's $150. My system probly won't ever go over 2000w, so I won't be outgrowing 24v, so I can't see any real advantage over 24. Maybe 48v mini splits are easier to find at the moment? Are 48v alternators easier to find? What other advantages are there besides more headroom for expansion?
Dirtyrhoades77 03/06/21 07:54pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: 2004 Cat C7 Charging LifePo4 battery bank

Could anyone ballpark estimate a the price on a 24v 100a alternator for a gas class C? It would be serve as a backup charger for a 24v 7200w lifepo4 battery on the rare occasion the solar panels have been without sun for a few days. The batterie's BMS indicates a 100a continuous charge. I'm not sure the ones I see on amazon are compatible with a gas engine, they all seem to be diesel. Is this a bad idea? I'd prefer to dump the generator as I would very rarely need it.
Dirtyrhoades77 03/05/21 06:15pm Tech Issues
RE: Mini-split in compartment

Thank you for the detailed reply DrewE, it's exactly what I needed. Thanks to everyone who replied. Definitely the generator and propane are imporant, I'm just trying to examine what is possible in this given scenario. I won't go boondocking without a generator or propane. Things just may get replaced, modified, or moved around a bit. DrewE's suggestion to take some space from the inside may be the way to go. Nearly every model I've looked has the dinette there, it should be relatively uncomplicated to remove the dinette, cut and box out what it needs, as long as the mods stay below the cushion level of the dinette. Cut the dinette cabinet accordingly, and put it back. As for tolerances, if I recall correctly the intake side needs 12". Given that I want the unit behind a closeable door, the exhaust will be set back maybe 2", 14" for the unit, then 12" intake clearance, makes a 28" deep box. Whichever compartment I mount it in will have an fully open bottom for air to move. I'd leave enough space on the sides to do the install and allow for vibration and flexing. Making it look normal from the outside will be more of a challenge. In response to the solar panels adding heat, from what I've seen so far is that panels need sufficient airflow below them or they overheat and lose as much as 30% efficiency, so they should be mounted 2.5-3" above the deck for airflow. In that case, the air below the panels stays cooler, and the roof surface as well. With a lot of solar panels (1500-2000 watts), a significant percentage of the roof would be shielded from direct sun. That must help to some degree. That said perhaps I should be considering a 12k unit, but I sure would like to know if 9k would do it, and somebody has to go first. I don't plan on hanging around any extremely hot environments (or cold for that matter), and I don't need it cooled below 75 degrees, so it won't be working too hard. With a minimum of 1500w of solar, a 7200w lifepo4 battery, a mini split, a 24v amish hvac cooling upgrade on the fridge, an on-demand propane water heater, and an induction stove, the generator and propane loads should be much lower than usual. I'm currently trying to clarify some details with a chinese company (royalstar) on some possible 24v Dc mini splits. It would be pretty great to keep that load off the inverter. Unfortunately there are spec discrepancies between their website, their catalog pdf, and a reseller's website. Not a good sign, but the idea is so tempting.
Dirtyrhoades77 03/05/21 05:31pm Class C Motorhomes
Mini-split in compartment

Hi all, I'm in the planning stages of a Class C boondocker, loaded with solar panels, a big 24v battery, all that. I'd like to install a mini-split up near the front of the vehicle, so when the sun is up and the heat is on, the living area is cool. I'm planning on a 9000btu unit as I think that would be enough if the roof is covered in panels providing some shielding from direct sun. I'd like to cram the external unit into a compartment nearby so it's close to the head unit, and on the driver's side so it's not disrupting the awning space on the passenger side. I'd have the fan exhaust blowing straight out the side, cutting a hole in the panel door for it. The exterior unit's dimensions are in inches 32w*22h*14d. Assuming I'm willing and able to remove the generator or propane if necessary, or modify whatever other type of compartment is in that area, are those compartments big enough to accommodate those dimensions? I imagine the height is the biggest problem, it would hang down a bit. I'd have to bolt or weld in a frame for it to sit on, preferring to keep the rubber grommet to sit on to absorb some of the vibration. Does that sound doable? I'd much rather make this work than do a bedroom/bumper mount.
Dirtyrhoades77 03/05/21 12:49pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: replacement air conditioner

I'd also rather have a ceiling cassette rather than a wall unit. Too bad it seems to be a niche product.
Dirtyrhoades77 03/05/21 12:21pm Travel Trailers
Sort by:    Search within results:


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:




© 2021 CWI, Inc. © 2021 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved.