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 > Your search for posts made by 'FloridaRosebud' found 67 matches.

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RE: Anyone interested in 83 Pace Arrow Tear down and Rebuild?

Hope you find the humor in this......... What happens when you aren't paying attention. OOOPPPPPSSSS. Been there, done that. Yeah, I thought that as well!! LOL Al
FloridaRosebud 11/20/20 05:35pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: F53 suspension upgrades

So let me add some more here. First, trying to get an F-53 chassis to handle great is like trying to put lipstick on a pig. Isn't gonna happen. Now, that said, There are mods you can do that will enhance the handling. For me, I've done the following. 1. 4 wheel alignment and weigh the MH. Adjust air pressure per the Toyo tables (not what the guys at the tire shop say) 2. Roadmaster True-center for the steering 3. CHF 4. Poly bushings on stock anti-sway bars 5. Rear Hellwig anti sway bar 6. Rear trac bar 7. New Koni KSD shocks It already had Firestone air bags, which allow me to properly level the MH once we are loaded up and ready to go. So short of a front trac bar, or jumping into the Liquid Suspension (high dollar) mods, I'm pretty much done. So does it handle better? Absolutely. Semi's rarely push me around (other than the empty rolling parking lots), and cross wind issues are no problems under 15-20mph. Koni shocks improved the ride so it is not as jarring. I still have issues with those pesky little 12-14 foot box trucks, as I can feel them when they blow by (I still haven't figured that one out), but now I could drive with one hand (not that I do), and I can go farther each day before I'm ready for my adult beverage. So for us, it was worth it, as we both love the MH and have plans on keeping it for a long time. YMMV and all that. For me, I would get the air bags over the Sumo springs, as the air bags help you adjust the ride height. Sumos are fixed. Sorry for the long post.... Al
FloridaRosebud 10/25/20 10:14am Class A Motorhomes
RE: F53 suspension upgrades

If you are having issues with winds (and we all do) you need a rear trac bar, as the springs/airbags will offer you minimal help here. Al
FloridaRosebud 10/22/20 07:00pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Class A V-10 mileage

I just finished a 1400 mile round trip, towing an Acadia. SeaBreezeLX F-53. Got 7.2 mpg.... Al
FloridaRosebud 09/28/20 06:47pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Safe T Steer vs Roadmaster

I had the SAF-T-STEER at one point. Eventually is rusted up internally, causing it to bind up and seize, which caused it to rip the bracket out of the frame. I don't really need one on my setup, but if I ever did one again, it would be an eternal-spring design like the Roadmaster, or an all-hydraulic through-ram like Fox. Same here. I ended up with the Roadmaster now. Very pleased. Al
FloridaRosebud 09/23/20 03:29am Class A Motorhomes
RE: 2020 chevy equinox LT

Here is the 2020 Equinox Owner's Manual. Page 346 tells you that all models can be towed 4-down, but Chevy advises starting and running the vehicle for 5 mins at each fuel stop and at the end of the day to ensure proper drivetrain lubrication. Wasn't that easy? I have a GMC Acadia I flat tow, and the instructions are the same. No issues here. Al
FloridaRosebud 09/22/20 07:03pm Tow Vehicles
RE: BACK UP CAMERA

my weldex black and white back up camera stop working want to go to color any recommendations Ours went out as well. Bought a "drop in color replacement" from Tadi Brothers, which has ended up NOT being a drop in replacement and was dead out of the box. Because it's been longer than 30 days I'm fighting with them for a refund. **EDIT** - Today they agreed on a total refund. Just had to talk to the manager. ** Al
FloridaRosebud 08/31/20 11:24am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Which shocks to buy?

When I first bought a Class A (1999 33 ft National SeaBreeze) In around 2007, I thought that it rode terrible. I had new Monroe shocks put on it. Noticed absolutely no difference Did you have the Firestone Airbags? Al
FloridaRosebud 08/22/20 01:43pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Which shocks to buy?

Bilsteins are gas charged and will transfer small bumps back through the steering. Koni FSD shocks are not gas charged and will absorb the smaller road joint bumps. Both work fine on the bigger bumps. Agreed....we had Bilsteins and the ride was very harsh. Now it's a Ford F53 chassis (2006 National Seabreeze) so trying to make it ride nice is like putting lipstick on a pig. That said, just put on Koni FSD shocks, and there is a noticeable difference in the ride. Not near as jarring over bridge transitions or expansion joints. Potholes really made no difference, but a really bad road is a really bad road whatever you use. Was worth it to us. I should add the Bilsteins were about 4 years old. Al
FloridaRosebud 08/22/20 08:22am Class A Motorhomes
RE: gas millage

All of this seems rather silly, including the mileage. Why spend the money on an Rv and build some budget for MPG? Spend all that money and fret over what might be a few hundred dollars a year extra in fuel. And the car/hotel travel VS Rv travel has so many variables it could go on (and has ) forever. I don't bother calculating and splitting hairs whether my RV is more economical than car/hotel travel. I know I like to have my own stuff, I know I hate hotels, I know I like having my own food, clothes, bikes, sheets, towels, etc etc. I know I own it and I know who's slept in my bed. If it's more economical, great. I don't care. We all bought Rv's for the same reasons I mentioned above, why does this conversation even come up anymore? It is rather silly....I ran the numbers using true hotel costs (Hampton Inn, not a cheap $69 per night hotel), lunches and dinners, driving getting 21mpg, and it was slightly less using the RV and paying about $40 per night at a campground and not eating out. When you factor in RV and car costs, maintenance, and all that, I came up with less than 30 days or so the car won, more than 30 days the RV won. You can play with the numbers all day (what car/SUV, what RV, and so on), but like you, we want to have our own everything, so there is no contest... Al
FloridaRosebud 08/21/20 01:29pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: gas millage

A 33' National SeaBreeze, and at 63 mph I get between 7.5 and 8. No toad, but just bought an Acadia, so we'll be towing in about 6 weeks. I'm expecting a drop of at least 1 mpg. As Dodge Guy says, I'm looking at doing a tune next year....getting the toad set up shot my budget for this year. Al
FloridaRosebud 08/17/20 06:23am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Concrete driveway thickness??

I also prefer to use fiber-reinforced concrete to help resist cracking, which may happen anyway. I'e been told by some of our Civil/Structural Engineers that there are two kinds of concrete; the concrete that has already cracked, and the concrete that hasn't cracked yet.... ;) Al
FloridaRosebud 08/12/20 02:12pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Tow Bar Age

OK, going to do it myself, however, any suggestions on the type of grease to use on the ball that connects the male receiver fitting to the rest of the tow bar? It's got a bit of corrosion on it from sitting in the garage for 7 years.... Al
FloridaRosebud 08/09/20 09:39am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Class A Tire Recommendation

I have Toyos and am very happy. Replaced Michelins. About $300 per tire. Al
FloridaRosebud 08/04/20 01:03pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Tow Bar Age

Blue Ox instructions use to have procedure for cleaning, lubing and servicing tow bars. Look at their website and didn't find true support page. When servicing use brake clean to remove dirt and old lube material. Aluminum bars need to be inspected for cracked welds. This may help! Servicing Thanks for the link! Mine is the Steel Aventa bar. Al
FloridaRosebud 08/04/20 10:34am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Tow Bar Age

I don’t think I would want to buy from a company that won’t even stand behind their product even after they rebuilt it. If they only have a life span of 8 or so years with no repairs or maintenance available then I don’t want it. I guess no more Blue OX products for me. That's kind of my thought as well. I'm in the forensic investigation world, and have been for almost 15 years. So I'm not the type of guy who believes that just because someone says something it means it right or OK. In this case, the tow bar was used about 7 years, towed a Jeep (the bar is a 10,000 pound rated bar) for about 50,000 miles, and then stored for the next 8 years or so. In my mind, it is only, say, 50% used. I have done investigations where the manufacturer of equipment (switchgear, circuit breakers, boilers, and so on) have said the item HAS to be replaced, but in the end we (my company and/or my engineers) have been able to have it repaired back to where it was prior the the incident. I understand the liability aspect (half my clients are Attorneys) but the statues have run out on this one. The person who told me they would not even look at it was a sales person, NOT an engineer or designer, and she offered me a $150 credit if I bought a new one. So a couple of red flags went up for me right away. So there's the reason for my question on the first post. If folks here said they've been using theirs for 10-15 years with no issues, and so on then that would be enough anecdotally for me to probably move forward with using it. At this point it appears to operate smoothly with no binding. I might cut off the plastic tie that secures the boot over the two extensions to inspect the seals, and if they are not cracked or show any signs of wear re-secure the boot and use it. And like you, if I buy a new tow bar it probably will be a Roadmaster..... Al
FloridaRosebud 08/04/20 09:38am Class A Motorhomes
Tow Bar Age

I was given a Blue Ox 10,000lb tow bar by my neighbor. They full-timed for 7 years, then it sat in their garage for 6 or 7 years. Everything appears to be in working order. No binding, and the arms extend smoothly and lock. I emailed Blue Ox to see if they would refurb it for me (just to be on the safe side), and they said no, they recommend replacement after 8-10 years so I need to buy a new one. So who out there is using an older tow bar, and have you had any issues? Should I just buy a new one? Thoughts? Al
FloridaRosebud 08/03/20 03:30pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Cost to install apparatus for Flat-towing

Since my current Ford Edge (3.5, Titanium) HAS a tow package - complete with wiring harness for anything I tow with it - can I tie into this wiring, assuming I have a wiring kit that connects the RV lights/signals to those of the toad? Or is this better simply running the wiring the entire length of the toad, from its taillights to the RV connection? My guess is no, the system probably won't work backwards unless you did some serious rewiring. It triggers off of pressing the brake pedal of the Edge, which is not in use. I'll be curious to see what others say.... Al
FloridaRosebud 07/28/20 02:16pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Koni vs Bilstein

OK, it's a 2006 National Seabreeze, F53 chassis. As stated in my last thread, I've got it handling great, however, still rides pretty rough. Was on the NY thruway today, and was a bit rough, then got to I-79 to head south, and though yes, this is way mo'betta. BUT, the closer I got to Pittsburg, the rougher the ride, until about 20 miles north. At that point, the road was hammering us. Doors were coming open, and twice my cruise kicked off. Even slowed down to 55, but still was vicious. The original owner replaced the OEM shocks 5 years ago with Bilsteins. I recall from racing days the Bilsteins were always "firm". So the question; has anyone replaced the Bilsteins with the 5-way Konis, and was there a significant difference? I'm not looking for the "buy a DP" answer, as we otherwise love the MH and it's going nowhere. So anyone out there done this? If I could get a 20-30% ride improvement I'd do it. I'm just not ready to sink $12k into a liquid suspension upgrade right now. Thanks in advance! Al How much if any, are you over PSI from what your inflation chart says, for each of your axle weights? Don't think shock brands will turn thing around all that much, either way, although giving my druthers, I'd opt for the Koni's. I'm spot on, based on the actual weight of my MH. Sometimes I run 5psi over, but the last few days I've been only a couple of psi over. Al
FloridaRosebud 07/27/20 04:09pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Florida

Everyone - just be careful. The science tells us what to do and not do. As of today, most private CG are open, and Glamping carefully is probably the "safest" of things you could do. From a Floridian - Al
FloridaRosebud 07/26/20 03:18pm Around the Campfire
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