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RE: Chromebook

There is a lot of partial information posted do far. I have been using Chromebooks for many years and Google Docs, Sheets and Slides are very good replacements for Word, Excel, and PPT. They will download .xlsx, .pdf, .csv etc. format so there are no issues not being able to access your documents. There is also a "work offline" mode to allow working with and saving your files without being connected to the internet. I should put a caveat up that I almost never use either Power Point or Slides, so that might not be as good as Docs or Sheets. Chromebook is an Android based OS which is also based on Linux.. Not exactly 100% substitute for a Windows based PC. In a pinch, a Chromebook can give some useful access to workaround substitute programs and if you have online access you can use the online web based MS Office suite.. But with some caveats and limitations.. But once again, it isn't not for everyone.. In the OPs case, if someone is giving you a Chromebook for free, try it, might work for you, might not.. But free is free. If you were buying one, doesn't make sense to pay $100-$200 for a Chromebook when for a bit more you get much more in a real OS.. A new basic Windows based laptop can be had for $300-$400 and doesn't have the limitations of Chromebook..
Gdetrailer 06/29/22 08:44pm Technology Corner
RE: Magic Chef Stove Burner repair or replace?

JB Weld is good to 500°F It wouldn't hurt to buff it down, seal it with JB Weld Metal and hit it with some high heat silver spray paint. What ya got to lose? You'll know in 10 seconds if that solved your problem :R Your life? :E Propane Flame Tempurature "In complete combustion with a blue-colored flame, the temperature of a propane flame is 3,596° F" Everything right around that flame will easily exceed 500 F.. Propane appliances are not the place to be cheap or experiment with.. All it takes is a slight leak of unlit propane to sink into the stove and build up until it reaches the lit burner and you and your camper may no longer be in one piece. Don't get me wrong, I am all for DIYing things but there are somethings best not done on the cheap or hillbilly style.
Gdetrailer 06/29/22 03:48pm Tech Issues
RE: Trailerlife portal down?

Cool! Adding index.cfm to my bookmark seems to fix and bring the trailerlife portal back to life! My bookmark did not have that but now it does. :) joerg68, Thank you!
Gdetrailer 06/29/22 02:18pm Forum Posting Help and Support
RE: Magic Chef Stove Burner repair or replace?

Try contacting Colaw for either new or good used replacement. Sounds and looks like it is rusting through. I'm wondering exactly how and where it is rusting, if the propane is escaping out the bottom and igniting is there some way to seal it? I wouldn't trust anything less that welding or brazing.. Glues, epoxy (JB Weld) or soldering will melt.. But, there may be another issue, the tops of the burner just might be aluminum or stainless steel and that is crimped together with the bottom.. Welding dissimilar metals can be tricky. The bottom part due to rust may be extremely thin and welding thin rusty metal is a challenge. With the amount of rust shown in your pix call it done with that part, for your safety it needs to be replaced. If no replacement can be sourced, then you may need to consider replacing the entire stove.. Yes, it will be expensive, but how much money is your and your families lives worth to you?
Gdetrailer 06/29/22 10:40am Tech Issues
RE: Renogy 20A dc to DC report

Hi All, I'll be "feeding" the unit with #8 wire. I have a choice of powering from the alternator, or powering from the starter battery (which is of course charged by the alternator), but only with the ignition key turned on. Doing the battery route would eliminate surge on the alternator, so I'm leaning in that direction. You are OVERTHINKING ! #10 wire is more than enough (I always recommend pre-tinned marine wire - no corrosion). You want an input that turns off when the key is off. Don't worry about surges. The charger will prevent that. 10 ga may be "heavy enough" for the amperage, but depending on the length of the run may not be "heavy enough" due to the resistance of the wire. When working with "12V" systems even a .1V can make a huge difference between working well and not working at all. This is one place where you just need to throw away the amperage capacity charts and start looking at the resistance per ft charts.. And while at it toss the "3% voltage drop rule", that only applies to 120V and higher, with "12V systems", 3% voltage drop is way too much loss.. Math.. 12.0V x .03 (that is 3%) = .36V loss... To get around that loss, one MUST do one of two items, shorten the run and/or use a much heavier gauge wire.. Shortening the run while cost effective may not be in the cards due to no good location exists to allow the items to be moved closer to the power source. 8 Ga in the case the OP is using is a good starting point, but it may still prove not heavy enough to minimize voltage drop to their batteries..
Gdetrailer 06/29/22 06:54am Tech Issues
RE: Trailerlife portal down?

As of this morning.. https://i.imgur.com/1RDLMlil.jpg "border=0" https://i.imgur.com/m3zZPvb.pngClick For Full-Size Image. Looks like trailerlife.com is being redirected to RV.COM which is also "Good Sam" and you can reach RVnet via that page but no more trailer life portal.. Another portal bites the dust and it was a good one, much more stable the RVnet.. Guess we need "taps" for an old faithful portal falling?
Gdetrailer 06/29/22 06:35am Forum Posting Help and Support
RE: Renogy 20A dc to DC report

That’s terrible efficiency! Thank you for posting. Re read my post. It looks bad, but in reality it isn't as bad as you may think. If you use watts as part of the conversion you will notice that watts will be pretty much the same other than the switching power supply efficiency which can be as low as 85% and as high as 92%. for instance 12.0V at 30A is 360W If you convert to 14.0V at 360W you get 25.7A at the output not including the switching power supply loss of say 15% which would be about 3.9A, the result is 21.8A available at 14V... Converting the voltage up drops the amps of the output but the watts stay the same. It is the principle behind why utility companies use massive transformers (which waste a lot of energy) to boost the power plant voltages up for transmission then convert the voltage down to your household voltages.. Without that conversion they would need to string even bigger more massive wires on the poles.. Does that help clear it up a bit?
Gdetrailer 06/28/22 08:46pm Tech Issues
RE: Renogy 20A dc to DC report

Not very efficient. :( Wonder if it varies by voltage or amps. Correct. Each time you do some sort of "conversion" there is some efficiency loss which results in some heat. Additionally going from a lower voltage to a higher voltage means it takes more current on the input than the current you get on the output but if you check the watts they will be nearly identical minus of course the conversion loss. For instance.. Say you are converting 12.0V to 14.0V.. 12.0V at 30A is 360W. 360W at 14.0V is 25.7A not including the efficiency loss of the switching power supply.. So depending on the start voltage of the OPs test and what his target output voltage it is very possible that his input current can be 30A at the lower voltage but yet only yield 20A at his higher target voltage but yet still get the same watts.. This is no different than what the Power Company does to distribute AC on the grid.. They take the generated voltage, run through a high voltage transformer which boosts the voltage and that drops the current allowing thinner wire to be used. Then at your house run it through another transformer to drop to a more usable lower voltage at higher current for your home.
Gdetrailer 06/28/22 01:19pm Tech Issues
RE: What size generator to run AC??

You forgot to mention a few "downsides" of propane for a generator.. First and foremost, propane has less energy density than gasoline, this means your engine will deliver less HP which translates to less generator wattage available per gallon of fuel. It appears you are mixing two things together. - On propane, the engine will produce less wattage (or HP which is the same thing) but it's nor per gallon. Of course with a 4500w generator or paired 2500w generators, that's a non-issue on a 30amp RV to run the air/con. - The stored energy per gallon is about run time not maximum wattage. You will burn through a lot more propane in the process, not a big issue if you are not mobile or moving about and can tap into a large propane tank.. But you will burn thru less gasoline and in a pinch with dual fuel, you can switch back to gasoline. A 20lb propane tank or a 5 gal gas jug eats up close enough to the same space in the truck bed. 20 lb portable cylinders hold a max of 4.6 Gallons of liquid propane, if you use propane "exchanges" you do not get 20 lbs worth of propane, you get max of 15 lbs, roughly 3.6 gallons of propane.. Yes, the swap places typically give you 15lb but the fill places you get the full amount. ......... There are also far, far fewer propane dealers than gas stations and most propane dealers shut their doors after 5 PM and may not be open on weekends. Pretty easy to find gas stations open up to 11 PM or even open 24hrs and open on Sat and Sun.. I prefer filling but in a pinch, it's easy to find swap places. Also, I'm filling a tank when it's empty, so I'll just switch to a full tank if it's 11pm. So, basically one would need to have multiple 20 lb - 40 lb cylinders just for the gen, switching them out to run a gen for a week. Not to mention handling/hauling them around to camp and to a propane dealer while camping. A full twenty pound cylinder weighs approx 38-39 lbs, 5 gallon gas can will weigh around 31 lbs and get longer run time. Running the generator 24/7 for a week...we'd probably move to a campground in those conditions, so we could plug in. We have 2 tanks on the trailer and 2 in the truck bed. Since 1 tank will easily last us a month or more, in a pinch, we could steal one of the ones off the trailer giving us 3 available for generator use. If small engines didn't have the carbs get gunked up, I would agree that gasoline is the way to go but the simplicity and reliability of propane shifted us in favor of a dual fuel unit. Regardless, propane is overall less desirable "alternative" to gasoline when it comes to loss of wattage (the terminology you are looking for is "DE RATED"). Propane contains LESS energy per GALLON than gallon of gasoline. For instance.. Per HERE Propane- 1 gallon = 91,452 Btu Gasoline- 1 gallon = 120,286 Btu So what you say? Well less BTU content means less work done and in the case of a generator it takes MORE propane in gallons than gasoline to do the SAME work as gasoline. Additionally, you get nailed on the price of propane in small portable cylinders since in small cylinders they sell it by the pounds.. Bulk sellers once you get into large tanks sell it by the gallon but unless you want to build a trailer to haul a 250 gallon propane tank with you you are stuck with retail by the pound pricing. Propane gens also have additional demand regulator, which can foul up, propane doesn't vaporize fast in cold temps which can cause fuel starvation and can even stop vaporizing in cold temps.. Propane isn't always propane, some areas you may get butane at a higher mix in your propane and butane is less BTUs and burns at a slower rate which affects just how well your engine performs and final wattage output. Something else to consider, "dual fuel" setups are a "COMPROMISE" and overall most small engines are built and tuned for gasoline, the timing and compression are typically optimized for gasoline and not propane.. It sounds good on paper, but in real world use, a compromise is a compromise.. If you don't mind moving 20 lb to 30 lb cylinders (which weigh 38 lbs and 58 lbs each respectively) all the time while camping then have at it, but myself that sounds like a real hassle.. Some of you guys are really way over dedicated to making camping a lot more about doing chores than relaxing.
Gdetrailer 06/27/22 02:09pm Travel Trailers
RE: What size generator to run AC??

Thanks for the replies, sounds like perhaps the best way is to get a couple of portable 2000 watt gens. Just what I did..... Two Champion Dual Fuel 2500W inverters I didn't want to carry gasoline, clogged carbs from gas sitting, etc. Propane is clean and readily available. Each inverter is 39# dBA is 59 at 23' (Honda is 48-57 at 23') I believe my set up is great. Light, easy to handle, plenty of power, can use just one if no AC is being used, two fuels, and portable enough for other uses. You forgot to mention a few "downsides" of propane for a generator.. First and foremost, propane has less energy density than gasoline, this means your engine will deliver less HP which translates to less generator wattage available per gallon of fuel. You will burn through a lot more propane in the process, not a big issue if you are not mobile or moving about and can tap into a large propane tank.. 20 lb portable cylinders hold a max of 4.6 Gallons of liquid propane, if you use propane "exchanges" you do not get 20 lbs worth of propane, you get max of 15 lbs, roughly 3.6 gallons of propane.. Typically with say a 3Kw gen, you most likely will burn through a full twenty pound cylinder (not an 15 lb exchange cylinder) every 24hrs assuming you run the gen 24/7! HERE is a website that helps calculate your propane use by a generator.. There are also far, far fewer propane dealers than gas stations and most propane dealers shut their doors after 5 PM and may not be open on weekends. Pretty easy to find gas stations open up to 11 PM or even open 24hrs and open on Sat and Sun.. So, basically one would need to have multiple 20 lb - 40 lb cylinders just for the gen, switching them out to run a gen for a week. Not to mention handling/hauling them around to camp and to a propane dealer while camping. A full twenty pound cylinder weighs approx 38-39 lbs, 5 gallon gas can will weigh around 31 lbs and get longer run time.
Gdetrailer 06/27/22 11:22am Travel Trailers
RE: Trailerlife portal down?

1492 Thank You for confirming it most likely isn't on my end :) Still not working for me as of this morning, kind of surprised lack of others chiming in about it though :h perhaps some are not aware of the other portals..
Gdetrailer 06/27/22 07:36am Forum Posting Help and Support
RE: Leak near Valve/Tank Connection

The SeeLeval is a system that circuit boards that attach/glue to the side of the tanks and measure the level/densaty of the tank, in 10's . :R Yes Dusty, I suspect most folks are aware of "SeeLevel" and its "advantages".. But it is not cheap, depending on tank placement may be a real pain in the rear to install or even not be able to install, it replaces an existing system which is already in place so now you have a old and new monitor.. Not to mention you are adding more complex circuit boards and electronics which can and do fail. Mine is built into the rangehood and simple as dirt so I would have to poke a new hole in the paneling.. It's cheaper and easier to just ensure your the probes are not holding on to waste material don't you think? Good proper dumping procedure seems to work pretty well and only costs a couple of squirts of dish detergent and copious amounts of water each dump.. Mine is going on 40 yrs old and still working but I guess mine is the only ones in this world that works correctly so I must be doing something wrong?..
Gdetrailer 06/25/22 09:08pm Tech Issues
RE: Gas regulator

If it's not the regulator then you have a spare. There have been posts about oil in the propane lines which comes into the tank with the liquid propane.I've never heard of the oil issue. Interesting. Propane since it is a "byproduct" of refining/cracking crude oil and natural gas into other products (at one time, propane, Naptha (cousin to gasoline were considered worthless byproducts and was flared off at the well head in the early days of crude oil production) which can contain small amounts of oil. Generally very harmless but since the actual content can vary some depending on how much processing has been done may be enough to make it out of the cylinder as you consume the gas (liquid form in the cylinder converts to gas as you draw it out of the cylinder).
Gdetrailer 06/25/22 08:55pm Travel Trailers
RE: Leak near Valve/Tank Connection

I was thinking 1.5" but regardless of the cause the leak should be fixed. Also wondering how he knows it's 3/4 full. Typically grey/black gauges are very inaccurate. I would call them unreliable more so than inaccurate.. The unreliable comes from the sensors often getting fouled up with waste not getting cleaned off of them.. Clean probes will be pretty spot on accurate since they are physically installed and don't move around.. Get em clean each time you dump and they work well, mine are in a 1984 TT, bought it used and yet my sensors work very well. I dump the waste, then add some Dawn dish detergent and fill the tanks to 3/4 and then dump that.. Has worked well for me.
Gdetrailer 06/25/22 04:36pm Tech Issues
RE: Gas regulator

Be aware that there can be a excess flow valve in the pigtail that connects to the tanks.. HERE "Marshall Excelsior MER401-12 Excess Flow Pigtail 12 in Excess Flow Male POL, 7/8" Nut and 1/4" Male Inverted Flare connections. 12" HOSE Flexible thermoplastic UL and CGA approved hose. These hoses are rated up to 350 psig working pressure with a 400 pound pull test rating. Warning: An excess flow valve will not activate if there is a break or leak downstream of the valve that does not equal or exceed the closing flow of the valve or if the excess flow valve installed exceeds the flow capacity of the system. Each hose comes with two ends and fully crimped brass ferrules" If if equipped with the valve it may have tripped or failed.. I don't know it is self resetting.. May have failed on both pigtails.
Gdetrailer 06/25/22 02:56pm Travel Trailers
RE: Trailerlife portal down?

It may be caused by TrailerLife.com portal not correctly configured to use CloudFlare certificate as the other GS portals are currently doing so. I'm not sure if IT even monitors these threads. Forum Mods don't have any means of direct contact with them. :S Cloudflare.. Yeah, that makes sense, seems to me I was reading something about a huge automated DDOS attack on cloudflare a few days ago.. Must not have affected RVnet though as it is still working today..
Gdetrailer 06/25/22 02:37pm Forum Posting Help and Support
RE: Leak near Valve/Tank Connection

Black tank has a large roof vent so not likely to be the problem. Tilt the rig and drain the tank, then you can work on it including a snake. Good time to also replace the valve. Not sure what you consider as "large" but the black holding tank will have a pipe diameter that is half of the tank outlet. Outlet on black is 3" so the vent size will be 1 1/2". To make this a bit confusing but easier for manufacturing purposes the grey tank will use the same 1 1/2" pipe for roof vent even though the grey tank has 1 1/2" outlet.. To help make things a bit easier to locate the tank vents the OP is looking for a small round "mushroom" looking cap on the roof.. Many variations of design but here is what many plastic ones look like.. https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/31uFVzvQi-L._AC_.jpg height=300 width=400 To snake the vent, one will have to remove the entire cap assembly.. If vent is clogged, OP may have to open the toilet valve to relieve the vacuum as the tank is being dumped. It is also possible that the vent pipe may have slipped down into the tank just enough that 3/4 full it no longer vents..
Gdetrailer 06/25/22 09:28am Tech Issues
RE: Trailer brake problem?

On my scenario my brakes were working and then not. Go down road and they worked. Still puzzled Dollars to Doughnuts I would bet your problem and the OPs problems are one in the same.. Wiring. Two major wiring trouble spots are the connections at each backing plate and the wires that are run inside the axle tube. Frame manufacturer will run the wiring down one side of the frame to the first axle, splice in the backing plate, the wire inside the axle tube and a jumper to the next axle. At the next axle they wire the jumper to the backing plate and the wire in the axle tube.. The wires in the axle tube are loose. Since they are loose they move around inside the tube which can rub the insulation off exposing the bare wire to the tube creating intermittent shorts or eventually breaking the strands of wire until you have no connection or shorted wires. That can cause the controller to shut off the output causing no brakes condition depending on where the wire in the tube is at any given moment. Investigate the connections at the backing plates, if in doubt about the condition of the connections, cut the splices and re do all of the connections. Manufacturers typically do not use weatherproof splices, water gets in to the copper wire and over time the copper wire corrodes enough to no longer make a good electrical connection. And yes, copper wire does degrade with repeated or constant exposure to water/moisture. Moisture exposure with copper creates a oxide coating on the wire surface which does not conduct electricity very well.. If your axles have the wires running through the axles, cut all connections to those wires and run new wire outside the axle tubes to the backing plates on the other side. You can wire tie the wires to the tops of the axles or across the frame.
Gdetrailer 06/25/22 08:58am Travel Trailers
RE: Trailerlife portal down?

One of my older PCs with a older FF browser version gives something like "this site is using an old or outdated security certificate".. if that helps..
Gdetrailer 06/24/22 12:37pm Forum Posting Help and Support
RE: Converter voltage drop

FWIW, LFP Simple Rules I live by - JMO 1) Except for occasional cell re-balancing, no need to fully recharge a LFP on a ‘wet-cell like’ routine basis… 2) Monitor closely the last few percent of recharge to 100% SOC thru to end of cell-balancing activity… 3) Post cell-balancing activity, discontinue Boost charging (avoiding the longer term) - shut-off 12v converter (at breaker) and thereafter run minor 12v loads from the battery (this still supplies active 120v for larger appliances). When off-grid, LFP can be supplemented with harvest… 4) For long term storage, disconnect and store LFP somewhere in the mid-SOC range (60-40’ish % SOC range). 3 tons I thought the idea of LFP batteries was to eliminate "maintenance" and hassle :h Looks like you signed on to a lot of work and hassle :S MY FLA requires a simple plug in and forget and once a year check and add water if needed :B Maximizing my enjoyment of my RV without the work. My PD takes very good care of my FLAs yr round and keeps them in good working condition that takes them well over 10yrs of life.
Gdetrailer 06/24/22 12:32pm Tech Issues
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