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RE: Cedar Creek Cottage CRS40 Window

Any glass guy,including a mobile glass guy should be able to replace it. There is nothing special about trailer glass. They are not tempered.Mine are tempered glass as well. Should also note, newer glass may use a "ANSI" number on the glass instead of saying Tempered, if so, lookup the ANSI number, it will tell you what the specific glass is used. Replace the glass with that same ANSI specification..
Gdetrailer 11/29/20 03:02pm Travel Trailers
RE: Cedar Creek Cottage CRS40 Window

Any glass guy,including a mobile glass guy should be able to replace it. There is nothing special about trailer glass. They are not tempered. My 1980s TT says you are wrong on the Tempered part.. The windows in my TT have TEMPERED watermark on a corner of the glass.. Tempering makes the glass STRONGER and able to withstand vibration and flexing and even IMPACT better than plain plate glass, seems like the correct application for a RV? Additionally tempering means that when the glass breaks, it will shatter into a million small less harmful pieces.. Standard plate glass breaks into large extremely sharp and lethal shards.. I would not wish to be a motorcycle rider or convertible motorist meeting up with huge shards of plate glass flying through the air in a accident involving a RV.. OP CAN however check with ANY window glass place that handles residential and business glass replacement. They will most likely NEED the frame in order to correctly size and cut the glass. They will for a small fee send the glass out for tempering AFTER they have cut to size. Tempering only adds a small nominal fee to the mix, I paid $25 additional for a 2ftx3ft piece of glass to get it tempered 10 yrs ago. When the glass comes back from tempering they should be able to reassemble into the frame.. Op will need to reinstall window assy.
Gdetrailer 11/29/20 02:34pm Travel Trailers
RE: Check water level on new battery! And screw-on lids??

My comments in red.. I guess I have to accept the fact that FLA batteries are "wear" items -- they don't last forever. I give them as much TLC as I can -- never over-discharging them, always recharging them fully as soon as possible, keeping them on a trickle charger, checking water and SG, etc. Actually ALL "batteries" are "wear items", in fact each time you "use" them (IE discharge/recharge cycle) you ARE "wearing them out". ALL batteries are a "consumable", you consume a part of them, physically and chemically. Does not matter what the chemical composition of a battery is, over time they WILL ALL FAIL. It is more the matter of when they will fail. For those banking on Lith type batteries to giving longer life, yeah, you WILL be disappointed down the road that you sunk that money into a MORE EXPENSIVE consumable item and get very little extra life out of them. I have dealt with AGMs and Lith batteries in 24/7/365 industrial useage devices, for the money the company wasted on those batteries I could have retired 10 yrs ago and been a multi-millionaire. Company spent a lot of money sending out replacement batteries on warranties.. AGMs ARE nothing more than glorified GELCELLS, they are finicky about charging voltages and Lith can suddenly without warning STOP charging or DISCHARGING due to BMS (and for the ones with integrated BMS there is zero hope of ever bringing those back to life). Yeah, have dealt with a lot of DOA lith batteries with sudden death, customers were not real happy.. I can buy a heck of a lot of FLA batteries for the cost of other battery tech and that is a fact, so even if you had to replace FLA in 5 yrs instead of 6yrs for other tech you are more cost effective buying FLA.. This last set of batteries lasted five years -- I would estimate 400 nights of camping during that time (80 or more nights per year). Decent life, but I have heard of others who got much better results than I did. My last set of Gc2s got me 9 yrs, could have used them another yr or two but I use them to power my home fridge conversion and they were showing signs of lower capacity.. When I use them I am discharging them at least 50% of the capacity, sometimes a lot more if I need the furnace overnight. They do get to loaf most of the yr as we only get a couple of weeks to camp but when we do camp, they are worked hard. It could be that my usage was a little tougher than average, because we usually experience about 20 nights of subfreezing temps during each camping season. We also tow the trailer on rough forest roads almost every trip -- it could be that the bouncing is hard on the components of the batteries. I doubt towing on rough roads are having much effect on the battery.. Most of the wear is on how you handle the discharge/recharge cycle and how deep of discharge they get.. The less discharge, the longer life they will have overall.. You might be discharging deeper than you should but at 400 cycles that is not all that bad when you think of it.. Found a article that pretty much is saying the same thing as I am mentioning and perhaps be helpful to understand batteries.. HERE Might be worth mentioning, charging too hard or not hard enough can and does affect the battery life, in essence there is a sweet spot between battery capacity and charge capacity..
Gdetrailer 11/29/20 01:28pm Tech Issues
RE: Future Used RV Market

There have been record numbers of RV's sold during the past year. Many are first time buyers who hope to enjoy the freedoms of camping during the pandemic. Many of these buyers have paid top dollar for trailers because of supply and demand. They have financed entry level rigs for 10 to 12 years. More expensive trailers can be financed up to 20 years. Many will take 3 or 4 trips and find camping is not for them, or the pandemic will end and they will go back to their previous ways of vacationing. They will find how difficult it is to get into campgrounds without reservations months in advance. Will we see many of these buyers decide to sell their new RV's within the next couple of years? What will the used market look like for sellers who have over-paid and financed a rapidly depreciating asset for long periods? It may well be a good market for buyers, but sellers who are "under water" in their financing may not be able to afford such a "beating". Nothing has or will have changed, USE RV market WILL be the same as in the past. What you are saying is the SAME thing that a lot of folks like myself who had to "prepare" for the "Y2K" computer debacle that the "professionals" said the world would go dark and everything computerized would cease to function due to the fact that since the advent of computers no one made "allowances" for the date going to 00.. Folks in a panic (not unlike what we are seeing with the Toilet paper hoarders of 2020) went out and bought every single generator out of stores.. Y2K came in and NOTHING happened, lights stayed on a most computer software still ran (although with wrong date).. Should have been a stampede of used generators on the used market.. NOTHING of that sort happened. RVs lose money anyways, anyone taking a loan on a RV acknowledges this by agreeing to P&I payments which not only double but TRIPLE the final cost to buy their RV.. Anyone who thinks they are going to make money on a used once RV outside the manufacturer and dealer is a real dreamer.. RVs wear out, go out of style, rust, break, rot and yes, depreciate in value.. There always will be some need for used RVs and there always will be folks looking at used because someone else took the financial hit before them.. Not everyone has bought new during this time, those are the ones that will win at getting most of their money out of a used RV..
Gdetrailer 11/29/20 11:40am General RVing Issues
RE: Check water level on new battery! And screw-on lids??

One more thing about sulphation -- I have these two batteries charging in parallel on a BatteryMinder Plus, which pulses in order to reduce or eliminate sulphation. I know that there is some controversy over whether such a thing is possible. (Mexicowanderer is skeptical, and I value his opinion.) But the manufacturer of the device has made a factual representation that the unit really can stop and even reverse the process of sulphation. (And there are quite a few reviews in which the review swears that the device cures sulphation.) I don't have the expertise to evaluate this claim. But I can tell you that if this claim were demonstrably false, the manufacturer would have been sued for fraud. I have checked, and no such suits have been brought. So my conclusion is that if no trial lawyer has challenged the manufacturer, these devices work as advertised. Batteries actually act/behave like a huge "electrolytic capacitor" like you would see in the beginning of a old school transformer based linear power supply right after the diodes.. The battery actually smooths out the choppy 60hz/120hz (half wave/full wave rectifier) ripple present in a unregulated linear power supply.. That is how the old school linear converters worked, they didn't use any filter caps and used the battery to filter out the ripple. It would take considerably higher voltage (and current) "pulses" which would have the potential of damaging or ruining every 12V device connected to the battery to really get past the battery acting as a filter capacitor. "Pulse" charging has been wide spread used way before all of the fancy "smart" chargers.. Just look at ANY old school transformer based charger.. Not one stitch of a capacitor in those.. Just transformer, diode bridge and circuit breaker.. Batteries got 13.6-13.8V PLUS a heavy dose of AC ripple on top of the DC. Even most old school NiCad chargers did the same and those often would severally overcharge and kill the batteries when left in the charger too long.. Because of this, I myself am highly skeptical many of those "pulse" charging claims. Overcharging and undercharging are your two greatest enemies of any battery. It is most likely why the main reason so many folks are gravitating towards more expensive Lith battery solutions which have built in BMS. Lith batteries require a BMS which handles the charging and discharging aspects with no intervention of the user.. However, if you have a decent enough multistage converter you can do as well as Lith with FLA with very little baby sitting.. Just have to make sure you follow a few simple rules like recharge as soon as possible after discharge, keep the water level ABOVE the plates, never allow batteries to sit in a discharged state while in storage and your batteries will reward you with good life.
Gdetrailer 11/29/20 11:26am Tech Issues
RE: Very Frustrated

I herd the term "Problematic starter relays" from Ford motorhome owners over in the irv2 Fleetwood forum. I posted an issue with a Southwind motorhome that is having a no start issue. Guess what I found? A "problem" with the starter relay in the upper left corner in the doghouse looking from the backend looking forward. The relay was not passing voltage down to the starter "solenoid". So, i picked up the term problematic from owners of the older Ford chassis owners. This is the relay I am referring to; Here's a simple schematic of how its wired. I did run across a Ford schematic but can't locate; SO, We are talking BOTH a relay and solenoid in the starting curcuit. Not sure how many years these relays where used, thus my post. Those would be specifically used on the chassis used for MHs and not part of the original design for Ford Cars and trucks. May also have been added on by the RV manufacturer.. In a nutshell, Ford and other manufacturers would build a stripped down bare chassis with motor, transmission, brakes, steering wheel and the basic chassis wiring.. It is up to the MH builder to add to, remove or MODIFY wiring to suit the MH engineering and design team. Often in Chassis and van wiring space is limited and wiring may need moved or altered.. It is for this reason that you may have difficult time with wiring, fuse boxes and engine parts designed specifically for that motorhome.. heck, even determining the actual yr of manufacture for the chassis can be a challenge since the MH manufacturer will often issue their own VIN with build date for their custom creation. One of the many reasons, I do not plan to ever buy a motor home, too many jacked up "one off" parts and wiring making them difficult to repair.
Gdetrailer 11/28/20 11:55am Tech Issues
RE: Very Frustrated

All relays use a solenoid. :R Semantics.. Solenoid in the CAR WORLD is pretty much the term used for a HEAVY DUTY HIGH CURRENT "relay" and is typically designed for SHORT TERM INTERMITTENT USAGE and main usage is for the starter.. They are used so you do not have to run 2ga or heavier wire to your ignition key switch.. Looks like this.. height=300 width=300 "Relays" are typically much lower current and can have intermittent duty or continuous duty, tend to be much smaller handle far less current.. Can look like this Bosch style 12V relay.. height=200 width=150 or even micro miniature relays that are mounted to circuit boards.. Yes, you can have "solenoid motors" which basically you have a heavy electromagnet with a hole inside attract a steel pin and the pin can be attached to other mechanical linkages and or close or open electrical "contacts". Solenoid coils tend to draw a heavy current, they have to since they are designed to move heavy spring loads. Relays typically have an electromagnet with a fixed steel core and when magnetized it pulls the relay contacts open and or shut depending on the design..
Gdetrailer 11/28/20 11:00am Tech Issues
RE: Check water level on new battery! And screw-on lids??

You may have overfilled them. Most marine/RV batteries are full 1/4” to 3/8” below the ends of the split tubes. Avoids splash out during bouncing and charging. X2! That is what my Dad taught me. As long as the top of the plates are covered your batteries will be fine. Adding water to touch or go high into the split tubes is going to cause the battery to expel more water than it should and appear to use more water than expected. That water will get into the caps vent and slowly weep all over the top of the battery. Basically, you need "headroom" as the battery charges, it will "boil" when charging.. You need a place for any boiled vapor to recombine back into water droplets.. That happens in that empty head space.. Recombined droplets happens too far up the tube and the water vapor escapes.. The excessive water vapor escaping is what causes most of the terminal corrosion also that folks complain about..
Gdetrailer 11/28/20 08:47am Tech Issues
RE: Very Frustrated

mchero, Been driving Fords from the 1970s, have never had a "problematic" starter "relay", I am thinking what you are calling a "relay" was in fact a solenoid. Pre 1990s Ford used a remote solenoid mounted near the battery, those were dead on reliable. GM, yeah, they had lots of those because they put the solenoid ON the starter! Somewhere in the 1990's Ford succumbed to GMs foolishness and the solenoid was added to the starter like GM.. and the temperamental solenoid games began..
Gdetrailer 11/28/20 08:22am Tech Issues
RE: Convert Pilot WH to Electric Start?

Actually, the lighter in the pix is a refillable butane lighter.. Was the first pix I saw on a Amazon search. Never tried one of those refillables since most disposables are pretty inexpensive anyways.. You could also adapt a replacement gas grill sparker button to light the pilot, mount the spark gap near the pilot and the pushbutton in a cool location.. The newer sticks and bricks water heaters actually use a piezo spark setup since you no longer have open access to the burner and pilot assy (sealed combustion chamber) and no longer get a match or long reach lighter in there..
Gdetrailer 11/27/20 09:31pm Tech Issues
RE: Convert Pilot WH to Electric Start?

Been a while since I had a Suburban water heater but I don't recall it being any harder to light than my current Attwood.. Or even sticks and bricks water heater (those were a real pain before the mandated sealed chamber).. For RVs I just use the long reach disposable butane lighters, cheap and get the flame where you can't reach with a match or regular lighter.. height=300 width=300 They also make bendable long reach lighters for those real hard to get places.. Long reach lighters should also be a bit more weather proof for use in rain although wind can blow them out or make it hard to light them. To make lighting more consistent, hold the lighter flame right at the Thermcouple for a few seconds after the pilot has lit.. Helps warm the Thermcouple up faster which means you can let go of the starting position on the gas valve faster. Makes cold weather lighting a lot faster and easier. Not much you can do about winds, have run into that while camping near the beach, just grin and bear it and eventually the winds will subside enough to not blow out the pilot..
Gdetrailer 11/27/20 07:22pm Tech Issues
RE: Latest Dish News Blackout ???

Except for the millions of us that are too far from any broadcasting towers to receive OTA. Chuck For yrs, I had a brother that lived in extreme rural VT.. Only got two stations and one was from NY and he had antenna on 40ft of mast to get that.. His family survived without "TV" and did OTHER things with their life than sit and watch all of that junk the "networks" foist on people as "entertainment". I personally have zero use for the "big three" networks, their news is garbage and their programming is garbage. Heck I only watch one local channel just for the "weather" then turn it off but yet I CAN get the SAME weather reports via Internet without the use of a TV.. Most of the big three networks now days do stream their news.. and I have no use for watching sports or "made for TV" reality shows. And by the way, IF you use a better antenna than a RV antenna, you will find a lot more stations even in the middle of "no where". My sticks and bricks is 60 miles from the nearest OTA broadcast tower and with a 8ft long antenna mounted 10 ft above the ground with a 20 DB gain preamp I can get well over 30 different OTA channels plus the sub channels.
Gdetrailer 11/27/20 03:11pm Technology Corner
RE: Convert Pilot WH to Electric Start?

Stay with the standard "pilot light".. Pilots are dependable, less hassle over "auto light" systems and not to mention retrofiting existing pilot type to electronic ignition is going to require a lot of expensive parts, gas valve, controller board, and any safety parts.. And then you will have additional 12V wiring and now a circuit board which will add to your 12V battery load.. Yes, wind can put out a pilot only but I would rather have that happen once instead of having the tank attempt to relight multiple times under windy conditions (snap, snap, POOF).. If you can find one, there was a "reignighter kit" which you could add on to a Suburban Pilot only model.. Not sure how well those work and it looks like they may be out of production now days.. HERE Found a Ebay listing for one NOS.. HERE
Gdetrailer 11/27/20 02:55pm Tech Issues
RE: Solar panel

I recommend larger 24 volt home panels in series. Find some local surplus as shipping is expensive for these oversize items. Shop by price per watt as these are just a commodity and will perform fine and out last the RV. Those 24V panels WILL need a MPPT type of solar charge controller, more expensive than non-MPPT. The only "advantage" to 24V panels and MPPT controller is you can use light ga wire from panels to controller.. You can also run "12V" panels in series but in reality not really much advantage..
Gdetrailer 11/27/20 02:30pm Tech Issues
RE: Solar panel

Solar panels now days are so cheap and pretty much all of them are imported from China, I would say, find the lowest cost per watt and roll with that. Looking for specific name brands on these is going to waste your budget and time.. There are a lot of name brand loyalists here and they won't be real happy about my suggestion.. You will also need a solar controller, buy one that has plenty of capability up front, 20A-30A is a good start for 200W-300W worth of panels. HERE is a Amazon search that will get you started.. Make sure the panels will fit you space before purchasing, 100W panels tend to be pretty long (4 ft).. You might also wish to consider what your goals are like 100% off the grid, part time weekender off the grid and so on, makes a difference in your application.. Batteries also play a roll, long weekend warrior, single group 24 or 27 even with several hundred watts worth of panel isn't going to cut it..
Gdetrailer 11/27/20 01:31pm Tech Issues
RE: Latest Dish News Blackout ???

The FCC or Congress could stop these retransmission disputes from using the viewers as hostages by allowing the service providers to use out of market stations during blackouts. :R You do realize that FCC AND Congress ALLOWED this to happen by changing the rules/laws to allow OTA TV stations to DEMAND "payment" to those stations in order for Cable AND Satellite providers to be able to rebroadcast those Stations? Station owners felt they were being "cheated" out of revenue as Cable and Sat markets grew and lobbied to get a ruling in favor of the TV station owners.. Additionally, you do realize that in most areas of the US you CAN also BYPASS the dish or cable and view the OTA channels DIRECTLY without the middle man? Just takes a OTA antenna and flipping your TV to OTA channels.. Not impossible and you WILL get a much better pix in full HD (you only get SD OTA channel quality on Dish).. Not to mention using OTA you get the additional SUBCHANNELS of each OTA broadcast channel.. Dish does not provide those channels and I suspect neither does Direct or most cable systems..
Gdetrailer 11/27/20 12:43pm Technology Corner
RE: Drawer latches

For drawers, the easy fix is to add a little block of wood or piece of stiff metal UNDER the drawer provided your drawer has enough up/down slop.. Here is a pix of my drawers.. In my case, I used a piece of aluminum which I bent to create a small ramp on one side. Push the drawer in and the metal ramp contacts the bottom of cabinet and pushes drawer up slightly. Once past the metal the drawer drops down and the metal now holds the drawer in. To open drawer, you simply pull up slightly while pulling the drawer out. Pulling up allows the metal piece to go past the bottom of cabinet front. This works like a charm and was modeled after my Dads old 1960s TC which used similar idea. For your cabinet doors, go with some REAL catches, I would highly recommend using Double roller catches.. These babies WILL hold even under the worst possible road conditions and will take considerable amount of pull to open them. height=300 width=300 You most likely will need to add a bit of blocking at the door edge but they will hold far better than magnetic catches. The only downside to these is they do have that little metal clasp that you can scrape a hand or arm on but at least my doors don't fly open.. Those can be found at Home Depot/Lowes or Amazon..
Gdetrailer 11/27/20 12:30pm General RVing Issues
RE: Very Frustrated

There are just getting to be very very VERY few places that repair starters, alternators, radiators, things of that nature. Those repair shops are few and far between, as well as the availability of parts to repair such things. It's a changing world. Buy cheap ****, throw it away. It was bound to happen. When I first got into the workforce in the mid 1980s, I spent the first 4 yrs repairing pretty much any and all consumer electronics like TVs, Stereos, VCRS, DVD players.. The last shop I worked for closed when I got a real hourly paying job repairing computerized POS equipment.. Cheap electronics killed the TV repairman. If you couldn't charge $50 per unit and repair a lot of them you were going to go broke. No one wanted to pay $50 to have a 4 yr old 19" TV when for $100 they could buy a newer and much larger screen. Every type of repair requires specialized tools and training and some like automotive work requires considerable retraining and new tools on a yearly basis. Granted, alternator, starter and even radiator repairs are not rocket science but with the Internet and the flood of lower cost imported parts you are going to have a difficult time making enough profit to keep the lights on.. And yes, I watched my Dad refurb starters, alternators and even repair a old few radiators with pin holes.. But, I don't have the lathe he had to turn down the commutator, getting brushes now days requires ordering them from the Internet, even bearings get be a drag to get, alternators now days has regulators built in and radiators, well are not a DIY repair due to them being aluminum cores with a plastic tank with a gasket crimped together.. Most likely you will have more than $50 in parts along in a starter and more than $70 in parts in an alternator if you really were to fully rebuild them and I highly doubt anyone would be successful and recrimping a used aluminum radiator core to a nice new plastic tank without a lot of leaks (aluminum doesn't take well to be bent more than once).
Gdetrailer 11/27/20 08:29am Tech Issues
RE: Very Frustrated

It can be done DIY, but for the small price I paid a mechanic, somethings are not worth busting knuckles over to me. I don't mind wrenching, my Dad taught me a lot and my first line of defense has been to take on new challenges, but sometimes one must admit defeat.. That starter kicked my behind and that was on the first bolt I tried.. But, I was also forced to lay on my back, on a gravel driveway which also did not add help to the situation.. I don't give up easily but the idea of rounding more bolts in that area was not appealing to me.. Mechanic was able to get it towed to their shop, push it on a rack and be able to stand upright to work on it.. Makes a world of difference when you do not have to lay on your back. Mechanic ordered the starter, got the starter, removed old one, installed new one and I picked up the vehicle the next day. I didn't end up having to flush rust and dirt out of my eyes and as a bonus didn't give blood to "Christine" at the same time.. To me, A "win, win" situation.
Gdetrailer 11/25/20 09:30pm Tech Issues
RE: Dehumidifier overkill?

I have a dumb question and I swear I'm not trolling. Coming from the arid west, I don't understand what the issue is. I know from experience that I hate humidity combined with heat (yes, I'm talking to you Florida and Texas), but I don't understand the issue in the winter when it's cold. We have condensation on our windows sometimes in the morning, but it always goes away once we get up and warm the place up. How is the humidity affecting you all so much that you need dehumidifiers? What are the symptoms of heavy humidity in your RVs? first symptom is fogged windows. If you are in an area with moderate relative humidity, the window fogging may not be an issue. It may go away rather quickly once the inside temp rises. But get to a place where outside humidity is near 100% in the winter coupled with what humans add to the atmosphere inside and any use of stove/oven, and it becomes more than fogged windows, heavy fog on the windows, water at the bottom of the window. And it hangs around a long time, even all day without either ventilation or a dehumidifier. That's when our dehumidifier comes out. We have places we go where it can get below freezing at night and no window fogging, very low RH, other places where it's in the 50's at night and we have condensation problems. Fog on the inside windows even if it hangs around all day is not a big issue in cold outdoor temps. With single pane windows it IS to be expected and will happen anytime the outside temps are colder than the inside temps and you have high enough humidity inside to condense. What does become a problem is if the humidity level inside is so great that the ceiling and walls start condensing the moisture, then you have an issue. I would recommend getting a indoor thermometer with humidity reading before applying a dehumidifier. Cold air naturally cannot hold as much moisture as hot air does and in the winter it gets very difficult to keep ENOUGH moisture in your indoors. height=300 width=300 HERE for $7 Generally you want 35%-45% RH indoors. Too little (under 35%) and you dry out your sinuses, dust (dust mites) gets airborne faster also and plain does not feel comfortable. Too much humidity (over 45%) and now mold growth becomes a real issue, sinuses can have issues and you get a sickly too hot/smothered feeling.. 35%-45% humidity WILL show up on single pane windows as fog or even condensation beads.. Now if you are talking doublepane windows condensing then you may have a problem to be concerned about.
Gdetrailer 11/25/20 11:39am General RVing Issues
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