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RE: Door lock Trimark 30-1050/030-2650

Good day everyone. I will be emailing Coachman to see if they have a remedy for this I will keep everybody up to date for future reference for somebody else. Someone one on here posted Trimark came out with a new lock with a steel latch but the price was another $100 more than the original made from the zinc alloy. Ask if they know anything about the improved latch or if a more reasonably price one other than Trimark which will fit. Good Luck.
Gjac 01/24/21 11:11am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Modify OR Access Easily Over cab Bed for the Older Camper

When we were shopping for a new Class C in 2005 I reasoned that for the best overall handling and stability when underway, I should find one in which the chassis design margins were pushed minimally by the coach weight, the coach center of gravity, and the coach height. To keep coach weight relatively low in relation to the chassis weight carrying design limits, I chose a 24 ft. Class C with no slides built on about the only overkill chassis available at the time - the cutaway Ford E450 van chassis. However, the Chevy 4500 cutaway van chassis may have been available then, too. The Ford E350 or Chevy 3500 chassis would have been "adequate" to carry around the weight of a 24 ft. coach, but I wanted a bit more than adequate. We can load our Class C in anyway and as much as we want and I can't feel any difference in it's handling. The E450 chassis also has a wide spacing of it's rear dual tire sets (wider than the E350, maybe wider than the Chevy 3500, and definitely wider than the Sprinter), so lateral (side-to-side) stability is maximized. This additional stability is not only beneficial for taking curves at speed, it is also beneficial to counter-act the force of crosswinds on the somewhat tall sidewalls of a classic Class C. Of course the stiff shocks on the E450 chassis - especially when combined with it's wide rear dual tire sets - also help to produce good lateral stability. I chose a 24 ft. classic Class C to keep coach weight down as compared to a longer one. Of course all heavy items on it are down low, as is the case on most Class B and Class C motorhomes, so the center of gravity is relatively low ... which helps with lateral stability. We wanted more interior storage and move-around room, so a narrower coach bodied Class B+ or Class C would have been too constrictive for us. Our coach is a "wide body" one at about 101 inches wide, so the interior feels "open" enough. It's exterior storage is also generous because it's a basement design in which the coach floor is a bit higher than the cab floor. What this provides is taller outside storage cabinets. We have 7 exterior storage cabinets, 2 of which run laterally across the coach width for long items like a shovel and fishing poles. These lateral storage compartments are possibe because the coach floor is a bit above the top of the chassis side frames, which is why there is a step up from the cab into the coach. Naturally, a more streamlined and narrower and less tall coach configuration is going to reduce wind friction. But fuel mileage pales in comparison to A) the overall expense of owning a motorhome, and B) the overall pleasure payback from owning a motorhome - especially a small one in which you can go to a lot more intimate and more difficult to access exploration and camping places than in a larger one. The only towing we do is our 14 foot aluminum fishing boat ... which is "nothing" for a small coach on a 400 series truck chassis. P.S. Our major negative with the overkill chassis used to be the stiff ride in the rear of the coach. We fixed this through use of Koni Frequency Selective Damping ("FSD") shocks. These shocks adjust themselves to ("soft") low damping rates for the rapid crack and pothole stresses, and ("stiff") high damping rates for the slower stresses present on highway curves at speed and such things as entering raised parking lots at an angle, etc.. I apologize for the long explanation ... but there are a lot of subtle things going on when driving a loaded box down the road. No need to apologize Phil, you gave a good explanation, however when I look at the new specs between a 350 and 450 I can't see any difference, nor have I been able to find a new 22-24ft C on the 450 chassis. I guess the real question is knowing what you know now, if something were to happen to your 2005 Spirit and you had to buy a new MH what would you buy today?
Gjac 01/24/21 11:01am Class C Motorhomes
RE: RV aluminum siding gauge?

Thanks for the responses. Adding stringers is a good idea, there is almost no framing in that area except along the edge. I need to also keep in mind what is available locally. From what I am reading 3003 may be a good option? It is med strength and is cold workable. I'm thinking around .032 I probably use prefineshed white so I can paint it at some point. Recently came across 2024 T3 .032 which appears to be what Air Stream trailers use, so need to look into that. I should start this in the next month or so. These alloys also come dead soft with a SO designation. I would use what ever is available and is affordable, the softer the temper the thicker you should go. Airstream makes their Al trailers similar to Al airframes.
Gjac 01/22/21 09:05pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Modify OR Access Easily Over cab Bed for the Older Camper

I have been thinking about this issue my self. Most all the small class C’s have this corner bed and would not work well for two older people so one would have to sleep somewhere else. Has anyone tried reclining the front seat and using that to get down in the middle of the night? Can you step on the couch then to the reclined front seat to get up and down.? Our 24 ft. Class C has a dinette that easily converts into a full bed in addition to a rear corner queen bed and a cabover queen bed. A couple could sleep one in the rear corner queen bed and one in the dinette full bed if neither on one wanted to use the cabover bed. MY experience with dinette sleepers is they tend to be stiff and uncomfortable but that can be dealt with.I had a high end sleeper sofa from Itasca that we removed and sold because of that. I personally have a topper in my new (to me)RV that is very comfortable ,but where would you store that if it wasn't on the bed. I use a 3" foam topper on top of the built-in foam mattress in the overhead cab bed where I sleep. I can sleep in the overhead cab bed without the topper, if I have to, thanks to the nice stock 5-6" foam mattress that Winnebago built-in up there. When we have a need for the full bed that the dinette makes into, I just borrow the extra 3" foam topper I normally have on the overhead cab bed and use it on this dinette full bed to provide added comfort for whoever sleeps there. The above is another reason I like the classic Class C configuration with the large overhead cab bed area. Whether it's used for sleeping or not ... it's a great huge interior area that can be put to good use. It also helps shade the cab to keep sun's heat under control, plus there's less water, sleet, or snow blasting the windshield when having to drive in bad weather. I would never own a so-called Class B+ just because of the more streamlined small overhead cab area. You gain a lot of versatility by having that large overhead cab area of a classic Class C available for whatever. Phil you make some good points. However are there any advantage to a lower profile B+ like the Phoenix or BT Cruiser as far as ride quality(lower CG) or better MPG (more aerodynamic)? Do you still tow a car in your 24 ft MH?
Gjac 01/22/21 05:14pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Battery origin

My Walmart starting battery in my MH lasted 9 years. My Walmart batteries in my tow car only last 3-4 years which were replaced twice under warranty. The difference I charged my starting battery in the MH whenever the House batteries reached 80 % SOC. The tow car was charged just with the alternator. Having said that Walmart, Costco, and Sams Club change who they buy from over the years and there have been a lot of reports on here of premature failures of Costco batteries in recent years. The batteries you bought 10 years ago and got good service from may be an entirely different brand today.
Gjac 01/18/21 08:26pm Tech Issues
RE: Door lock Trimark 30-1050/030-2650

They are easy to take apart. If the dead bolt works it is the latch itself that probably broke. Once you remove the screws you can see the inside and will probably find the latch in two pieces. Some people on here have actually had that latch machined out of steel by a local machine shop which will last forever. The other thing that fails is the white plastic cam actuator that actually opens the latch when you pull on the handle. My guess it is the latch itself.
Gjac 01/18/21 07:28pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Modify OR Access Easily Over cab Bed for the Older Camper

I have been thinking about this issue my self. Most all the small class C’s have this corner bed and would not work well for two older people so one would have to sleep somewhere else. Has anyone tried reclining the front seat and using that to get down in the middle of the night? Can you step on the couch then to the reclined front seat to get up and down.?
Gjac 01/18/21 04:08pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Door lock Trimark 30-1050/030-2650

Do you know what part of the door assy failed? They are notorious for the latch iitself breaking because they are made from a zinc alloy, some call it pot metal. It is weak compared to steel or Al. I would not by the same p/n because it will likely fail again. I have replaced mine 3 times. After the first two times I realized the poor design and instead of spending another $100 plus on a new door assy I fixed the broken latch with a steel splicing the broken pieces together. The .050 thick steel was much stronger than the zinc alloy.
Gjac 01/18/21 03:41pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Making Oil

Turbo charged engine have higher fuel pressure than naturally asperated engines and fuel can sometimes leak past the rings. Some Honda CRV's had this problem for a while.
Gjac 01/14/21 09:30pm Tow Vehicles
RE: RV aluminum siding gauge?

There are 3 basic grades of Al used for air craft 2024,6061 and 7075. The easiest to roll form is 2024 because it is the softest and also the weakest of the alloys and has the least amount of spring back after it is formed. 7075 is the strongest and hardest to form with the most amount of spring back and 6061 is in the middle. They also come in different tempers like T1-T3. The front section that you are talking about is a wrap section(not a compound curve) meaning it can be just roll formed to shape with out a mold. So any alloy will work. The softer alloy 2024 will dent easier than 7075 so I would use a thicker sht say .050. 7075 I would go with .030. The harder alloys you will have to over bend to allow for the spring back. If you don't have access to a bending jig 2024 will bend easier even in the thicker sht with very little spring back. I would add a few stringers across the width just for more support.
Gjac 01/14/21 09:16pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Charging issues?

Start by telling us what type of batteries that you have and how old they are and what kind of charger you use(how many amp output)? When was the last time the terminals were cleaned of corrosion? When you returned home on the 30th did you fully recharge the batteries? If so that much self discharge in 7 days is too much. If you did not fully recharge just drove home, that could be a normal reading. I assume your battery disconnect switch is on? So take some readings at your 12v panel and see if you read 12.3 v(same as battery unplugged) and let us know.
Gjac 01/07/21 07:31am Tech Issues
RE: Interstate Golf Cart batteries, which line is best deal?

I think the thing to think about is Costco and Sam's Club have bought different batteries over the years. I think the 6 v GC batteries I bought from Sam's Club in 2007 are Duracell's. They are still working fine and I dry camp 95% of the time. I was looking to eventually replace them with Costco batteries because I am a Costco member and have read the same reviews and posts on this forum about the premature failure of these batteries. In addition I have gone through 3 12v starting Costco batteries in 3 years all under warranty. Also replaced 3 in my daughters car. The tech said they were all purchased from China and there were a lot of returns. Sam's Club may have the same issue. I would look at Batteries Plus they sell Duracell's and Crown batteries for not much more than Costco. I am very happy with my the performance of my 14 year old Sam's Club batteries but would be reluctant to buy new ones there or Costco unless I new who made the batteries and to what specs. And no I don't keep my batteries on float charge. When not camping I let them self discharge to 80% SOC then recharge to 100%,off topic but interesting discussion.
Gjac 01/07/21 07:10am Truck Campers
RE: New E450

Maybe time for Ford to ceramic coat the exhaust to get the heat away from the cover? I sold my C but considered that and exhaust wrap. Ceramic coated headers and headers in general makes a huge difference in heat reduction. I used to get hot foot with the std cast iron exhaust manifolds. In addition the sparkplug wires need changing every few years due to heat. Once the ceramic coated headers were installed dog house was cool and same ing wires for 12 years.
Gjac 01/07/21 05:02am Class C Motorhomes
RE: What are your opinions on the new Ekko ?

It has the best features that I have seen in a 23 ft MH. Twin beds that convert to a king, 50 gals of FW, large storage bay in rear. The problem is the price tag($164K). The Cross Trek has a larger storage bay in rear but east west beds and less FW, but $70k cheaper. The BT Cruiser 5210 slightly shorter, less storage, 41 gals FW, but it is half the price($85k). Like you said weight distribution may be a problem. Are there any others that have a similar design as the Ekko?
Gjac 01/04/21 05:51am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Day night shade replacement suggestions?

Once you re-string the day/nites with something that slides properly (teflon covered fishing line) they work just fine. What size line, and can you recommend a brand? I usually have to restring my blinds annually... If you have to replace them every year, check to see if the grommets that the string slides on fell out. With no grommet the string will fray quickly. I reinstalled my grommets and used waxed nylon braided line as a replacement line. The waxed line slides easily over the grommets and prevents the line from fraying.
Gjac 01/03/21 09:38am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Lifting my class C

I would start by taking the MH to a flat area parking lot and check the front and rear ride height and compare it to specs for your chassis. On a 30 year old MH chances are the springs are probably weak. Next weigh the front and rear wheels. Ideally teach tire should carry the same weight, just looking at your MH I would guess the rear carries more weight and the front end is too light. My guess is your WB is 138 ins, if so it will be hard to redistribute the weight but you should try. Once the ride height is fixed by adding spacers or springs you may gain a few ins of GC. Higher aspect ratio tire would help some also. I think someone on here added air bags but said they did not add much ride height if the suspension was good, only added if weak. Good luck.
Gjac 01/01/21 11:21am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Battery life, fridge only

What kind of batteries(12v starting, marine or 6 v GC batteries) do you have and how many amp hrs? How new are the batteries? With good batteries the answer is yes even with just 12v starting batteries. With good GC batteries you can easily go a week before the self discharge with just the refer on. Depending on the length of your trip to your camping spot and you alternator and charging system you could recharge on the trip. How many amps are going back to your batteries while traveling? Will you be dry camping or staying at a FHU park?
Gjac 12/31/20 08:04am Travel Trailers
RE: Merry Christmas to all from Uncle Bob!

Merry Christmas and Happy New year to you also Bob. Glad your shoulder is healing well. Hope you get more camping in this year.
Gjac 12/26/20 11:03am General RVing Issues
RE: Basic questions about Class B's

Atlee, you make a very good point, and I am slowly coming to that same conclusion. I go back and forth between a B, a small TT, and a small B+. Still looking at a BT Cruiser that is 22ft long, 10 ft 6 ins high and 8 ft wide. More water, storage and room inside than a B. Some on here get away without a tow car depending how they camp. Each has its advantages and disadvantages, but between the three options a small TT seems to be the best option once one understands the issues with towing, backing up, and set up which you do having owned one.
Gjac 12/26/20 09:58am Class B - Camping Van Conversions
RE: Cannot open grey or black tank

It sounds to me that the seals inside are stuck to the plastic slider it self inside the valve body. What I did with mine when they became hard to open I drilled a small hole in the top of the valve body and screwed in a grease fitting. Using a regular grease gun the grease under pressure has no where to go but through the seals freeing the seals from the blade slider inside. It is usually the black tank that gets hard to open. When ever the handle gets hard to open I pump some grease into the fitting and all is well for a couple of more years. If you pull to hard on the handle and the threads pull out of the slider there is no other way to get that slider to move. I hope this helps. It is a very easy fix.
Gjac 12/26/20 08:33am Travel Trailers
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