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 > Your search for posts made by 'Grit dog' found 3049 matches.

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RE: 1976 Ford Midas

Unless there’s more to this story, it may not be worth as much as the tow bill and the disposal bill. RVs aren’t cheap to get rid of. Hope they paid you for it and not the other way around.
Grit dog 07/06/20 01:48am Class C Motorhomes
RE: need help with motor size

Don't be too concerned with the size of the engine. There really isn't much of a selection. They all get you from point A to point B. Some just take a little longer than others. The overall condition of the RV is more important than the engine size. ^Overly broad statement and shows you aren't well read on what the OP is asking. Like carringb said, 360 has to be an OLD Dodge or even older Ford assuming they put 360 fords in RVs back in the day. 460 Ford, good motor, but I wouldn't even consider a carburetor version. Based on the engine selections presented and the OPs question, I'm surmising budget well under $10k and not a gear head or shade tree mechanic. With that I'd advise away from RVs older than 20 years and certainly stay away from ones parked out on the tundra. Any older vehicle can be fairly reliable or a basket case (not just the engine/drivetrain, but brakes, electrical etc. RVs are also typically much more expensive in AK for what you get. I actually sold our camper, trailers, atv in AK before we moved back after living there for a bit and made a healthy profit. All were bought/brought from the L48 with us when we moved up. With flights and fuel cheap, I would consider lining up a bunch of good candidates down here, fly down with $$. Find the right one and drive back. End of the day it "may" cost similar as buying up north but will be a much greater selection. Caveat being if truly looking at old low buck RVs I wouldn't want to drive an unknown one 2000mi back up there before going through it and some good shakedown miles. Engine wise, I would only consider 6.0 Chevy or V10 Ford unless I was really good with a wrench.
Grit dog 07/05/20 01:29pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Has anyone added an extra water tank to RV roof

I think there are better solutions and weight on the roof, c of g and more holes in the roof (mounting bolts) are the downsides. Some use water bladders. We do too when needed. Consider wakeboard boat ballast bags. You can get them in all different shapes and sizes. They all plug in easily to a 12V cig lighter pump that you can put whatever length of hose you need to transfer the water as well. I use our old 400lb sacs. Either 1 or both depending on the need. I can put an extra 100gal of water on the back seat floor of the truck where it’s low and contained. No setup no fabrication and it all folds up to the size of a bed roll when not needed.
Grit dog 07/05/20 10:20am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Help - TV - Lance 2445 & Escalade

I wouldn’t expect a new Escalade to have a lick of issues in any department with a 7klb or so trailer. Proceed with confidence. And be warned you’ll get more than one reply that says you should have a 3/4 ton but then you’ll still be “close” on payload so you need a 1 ton. Stay your course unless you’re looking for an excuse to upgrade vehicles, but anything short of a new HD diesel will not really be an upgrade from what you have now. Nice rig btw!
Grit dog 07/05/20 01:23am Tow Vehicles
RE: sway

Dear OP. The last half dozen or so responses talking about how E load tires aren’t appropriate for a half ton and how they need more pressure than a softer P tire for the same load, are largely about 112% completely false and I actually wonder where some folks get these crazy theories..... And a lot of 1/2 tons come shoed with XL rated tires which are like P+ rating. But heavier than P but not as stout as a D load tire. Carry on.
Grit dog 07/05/20 01:13am Travel Trailers
RE: hauling trailer to Alaska

Thank you, lots of good info. Do most people who boondock run a generator? Yup and no lack of boondocking spots once you get past the big cities in AB/ BC.
Grit dog 07/04/20 12:40pm RVing in Canada and Alaska
RE: Full Timing in Canadian Winter if the Border is still CLOSED

Get an apartment or get your reservation in now for a spot in SW BC. Seems like the 2 most appropriate options to me. Full timing in real winter weather is an effort in futility and a desperate move.
Grit dog 07/04/20 12:35pm RVing in Canada and Alaska
RE: Battery replacements in 2013 Chevy Silverado 2500 Diesel

But 3 pages on batteries that started with “I can’t find the battery in my truck” begets some rambling I suppose.
Grit dog 07/04/20 12:31pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Battery replacements in 2013 Chevy Silverado 2500 Diesel

You will never get batteries as good as the factory batteries. They always last a long time. Just my experience. But it takes a lot to jump start a desiel with two batteries. Nice theory, but untrue. I could provide many examples to support your statement and many to discredit it. One example, I just finally had to replace a set of “aftermarket” batteries in the old Dodge. They were originally purchased in 2008 and 2011 iirc for your boat. Swapped to the truck in 2014. Time of death March 2020. I’ve also had a factory battery bite the dust inside of 3 years. And have had factory batteries last 7-8 years. FWIW they were Odyssey AGM. And for what they cost, they should have had a long lifespan. There are literally 100s of “factors” that contribute to battery life. And one of the reasons OE batteries seem to last the longest is they start out life in brand new vehicles which generally receive better care and have less electrical issues than older vehicles.
Grit dog 07/04/20 12:28pm Tow Vehicles
RE: 2020 F250XL 6.2 V8

I’m not saying that the torque multiplication makes it better towing, just interesting read that’s all. I do wonder if you were completely isolated from the engine, no tach, no sound; what the opinion of gas engines would be. My car will downshift on hills and turn 4,000 and most of the time I don’t notice it, when I pulled my travel trailer with a Chevy 5.3, I would notice the 4000 rpms, didn’t mind it so much, the shifting of the automatic is what I didn’t like. I much prefer to tow with a standard. If I was also isolated from the fuel bill and the speed at which I could pull grades, you’re correct, I wouldn’t notice the difference! Also duty cycle is to be considered. I pull a fair amount of “heavy” trailers with my company 1/2 ton. Trans shelled out at 60k miles. Brakes at about 70k, they were shot. Rear springs are fine but they’ve taken a set and sit lower/softer than the same truck that doesn’t work hard. Engine? Good so far at 85k but I wonder if it’s still a 250k motor or if I’ve used up more if it’s life proportionally speaking? Do I care? Nope. It’s the tool I was provided. In my personal life, I prefer a 1/2” drive impact wrench to a ratchet and breaker bar too. Ratchet will do the same job. But slower and with more effort required. I have 5 acres to mow. Have 60” zero turn and a 36” walk behind mowers. A $400 22” mower would do the same job, just slower and more effort. Same thing.
Grit dog 07/04/20 12:22pm Tow Vehicles
RE: 2020 F250XL 6.2 V8

^ I agree that there are good tools for every job, sufficient tools, great tools and inadequate tools. And they are directly related to the job that is being done. You understand that and chose accordingly. But not everyone recognizes that. As evidenced by this thread and many others similar to it.
Grit dog 07/04/20 12:15pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Class C vs Trailer for Cross country with family? Help

Cost is a good consideration though. With dirt cheap plane tickets now, you might be even money or close either way and add time to your trip by flying. That does limit how far you go during the trip though. If I flew into Bozeman, Spokane, Kalispell, I wouldn’t want to road trip to S Dakota and back and I’d cap the trip with the MT parks.
Grit dog 07/04/20 12:11pm Beginning RVing
RE: Class C vs Trailer for Cross country with family? Help

As said earlier, the kids will love traveling in the C vs 3 deep in the back seat. Please don’t consider the negativity put forth, as it’s typical every time someone talks about a long road trip. You know whether you and your family are good with long hours on the road. They don’t. IMO, getting the RV at home is advantageous because you can stock it with everything you need for little to no $. Vs renting at location, paying extra fee for amenities and still having bare minimum “stuff”. Some folk aren’t built for road trips. We have friends like that, however it doesn’t bother us. Sure the kids complain sometimes but they complain on a 6 hour drive. Wife and oldest son road tripped x country to deliver my sister a vehicle when son had his permit 2 years ago. No big deal. 1800mi, one hotel stay lots of Mountain Dew and chips! Plus with kids driving age, if they’re good drivers, makes for great relief drivers!
Grit dog 07/04/20 12:07pm Beginning RVing
RE: Tire Air Down

ARB deflators are nice. Not as “automatic” as Stauns, but good quality.
Grit dog 07/04/20 11:51am Truck Campers
RE: Class C vs Trailer for Cross country with family? Help

OP, I presumed you had both rigs and were trying to decide which. But you have neither? If so, then IMO the TT is the FAR more economical option. Whether you rent or buy a trailer, it’s cheaper than a C by a long shot and anything you get is hook n go behind a F350. No special setups or expenses there. Kids would vote C all day long and twice on Sunday. It’s a nice option but factor in renting cars a couple times as you wish to, it is even more expensive. Trip there n back, flip a coin. I don’t mind towing. Some do, but if you don’t then no issue there. If you only have a couple/few main destinations and will drop the camper for days at a time, then the TT makes sense to me. If you will be moving locations every day or 2 then the C is easier to pick up and move. Good luck, great trip planned! We did similar a couple years ago with the kids. 3 weeks, MT fishing, Yellowstone, Rushmore, a week back home in WI and back to WA. Seemed relaxing enough to me.... 1900 mi home = 2 long days drive. No biggie.
Grit dog 07/03/20 10:31am Beginning RVing
RE: Class C vs Trailer for Cross country with family? Help

No you are not. There is no way you can do it in three days and no way you will be staying at rest stops. Why are you even bothering to go? Obviously you have no grasp of what is to be seen and experienced. If you insist on doing this insane act, do it in a class c so you can swap drivers and run it 24 hours a day. He;; you might even be able to set a land speed record. Pipe down skippy. Go take some geritol and contribute to another thread instead please. Your response is borderline demeaning. OP, unlike the AARP group, when we travel, we drive to get where we’re going. Not to stop at 3pm and sip ice tea while taking a week to get from point A to point B. I also wouldn’t suggest rest areas. Plenty of other spots to wallydock. Sally worlds, cabelas, old county buffets and a plethora of city and county parks that are cheap and quiet for a quick sleep.
Grit dog 07/03/20 10:25am Beginning RVing
RE: Class C vs Trailer for Cross country with family? Help

That's not a vacation. That's an endurance run. 2100 miles in 3 days with three kids in a "C"? Typical old person opinion....think back however long you need to and re analyze your statement.
Grit dog 07/03/20 10:21am Beginning RVing
RE: sway

OP, be more specific. The fact that you mention it’s your “first trailer” and that it’s a good size trailer for a half ton, it could just be that your expectations aren’t in line with what it feels like to tow a trailer, or it could need some fine tuning. Could be trailer is a bit light on the tongue and/or a lot of weight aft of the axles causing it to wag the dog a bit. Could be soft tires on the truck, could be not enough weight transfer and steering is light..... Some expect a trailer to tow like it’s “not there.” Maybe a minor issue or 2 maybe nothing. Some will say it’s too much trailer for the truck. I can tell you definitively, while it may be too much for some people, it is absolutely NOT too long or heavy for a new half ton. Not in the least. Difference in opinion, I know, but after 30 years of towing probably 100s or different trailers with dozens of different trucks of all sizes, it’s fine. Some specifics could help dial it in or confirm its just normal behavior.
Grit dog 07/03/20 10:16am Travel Trailers
RE: Battery replacements in 2013 Chevy Silverado 2500 Diesel

^ If you don't have any other issues or symptoms indicating the batteries are weak, I would absolutely not replace them until at least winter time rolls around. Your thinking in that 7 years is about or greater than the average life expectancy is solid, however other factors can increase or decrease the battery life. Also, you don't need to spend $200 a battery. Many are that much, but there are plenty of FLA batteries in the $100 range. Recently replaced the batteries in the Dodge. Home Depot has Exide batteries for just under $100/ea. Can't speak to their longevity yet, but if they only make it half as long, they only cost half as much to begin with.
Grit dog 07/02/20 11:23am Tow Vehicles
RE: Any thoughts on a repair?

^ Tongue in cheek, but something I'd consider... Honestly bud, I think I'm pretty handy and I can't think of any simple way to go about this. For a temp repair, IF you could locate the framing in the walls of the overhead and back into the main camper, you could cut a sheet of plywood to fit each side, jack up the overhead and take the sag out of it (looks like it's sagging, no?) and screw a reinforcing "plate" on each side. Upside, I think that would be quite sturdy. Downside, there's some holes in the wall sheathing, but small ones at that. Bout the only thing I can think of for a field fix.
Grit dog 07/02/20 08:41am Truck Campers
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