Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Search
Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  

Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'LarryJM' found 52 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 3  
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Space Heater

I see some mentioning the GFCI 20A ckt generally found on most pedestals if used in addition to the 30A ckt as being "cheating or using more than one has paid for". My take is that that ckt is included in one's electrical charge and using it in addition to say the main 30A ckt is NOT CHEATING or STEALING. The only way IMO to CHEAT OR STEAL is if one uses a 50A service when one has only paid for a 30A site when the costs are different between 30 and 50A sites and of course say running an additional power cord to another sites pedestal that you have not paid for. Personally, I always ask for a 50A site and use my dual 30A to 50A dogbone to power my two 30A shore power cords to my trailer which gives me 60A of available power. Larry
LarryJM 11/18/19 03:13am Travel Trailers
RE: Space Heater

Personally to me, folks attempting to use only electric to heat a RV at a campground are abusing the campground owners good will and there are many places that recognize that abuse and charge more or may have meters.. Don't be so blasted cheap and ruin the goodwill for others by abusing the system.' I couldn't DISAGREE MORE ... GOOD WILL ... GIVE ME A BREAK. I pay for a site with either 30 or 50A service and generally it's 50A which often costs more than 30A and for that I have every right to use what I have paid for and that is 30 or 50A. During cold days I run up to 2 1500W heaters and supplement that with the gas furnace, mainly to ensure the enclosed underbelly area is heated to prevent things from freezing up. Larry
LarryJM 11/15/19 04:18pm Travel Trailers
RE: Filling Propane While Traveling

Where do you fill propane while traveling? I know a lot of campgrounds will have someone that is mobile and can come to your site, but what if you are going boodocking. The company that fills my house tank use to do but now they have a new truck and something to do with increased pressure. My tank are 30 pounds so not that easy to move around. Ed Many CGs like KOAs, Flying J's, Camping World are three that come to mind right off. Larry
LarryJM 11/10/19 04:49pm Travel Trailers
RE: New to WDH and Sway control

I have ordered a 29 foot 7400 lb gross / 600 lb hitch weight trailer. Will be towing with a 2018 F150 (9000 towing, 2000 payload). I'm looking at a Husky Husky 32217 Center Line TS WDH to use for this unit. Anyone have any experience with this hitch and similar sized unit; or advise on what might be problems with it. Regards, Doug That hitch really looks cheap and not made real well and IMO there are MUCH, MUCH better and more robust WDH/Sway systems out there like Reese and Equal-i-zer. I would pass on that system. Larry
LarryJM 09/24/19 05:26pm Towing
RE: Sealant, Weatherproof Tape, & Coating; Or Sealant & Coating?

But other people have warned me about using Weatherproof Tape like the Eternabond brand. And I read that if there's an issue with the tape, water can get inside it and cause problems, and sometimes screws can eventually poke through it, if you run the tape over screws. Whoever those "PEOPLE" you referred to IMO are giving you bum advice and I would never listen to them in the future. Also, whatever you are reading I would throw that source out too since unless you trapped moisture under the tape, if it's applied properly water WILL NOT get inside it. FInlly I would put Eternabond at the top of resisting any screw heads penetrating the tape since the microsealant will give a lot so the screw has to really back out a lot to even possibly cause an issue and other "TAPES" IMO will fail light years behind of Eternabond tape. IMO using any other "TAPE" other than Eternabond is going second rate and I would not recommend it. Larry
LarryJM 09/24/19 05:20pm Tech Issues
RE: Havent camped in 2 years

Don’t fret camp setup with your TT, Go slow, take breaks, devise a setup procedure. It’s mental, not physical. IMO the "GO SLOW and TAKE BREAKS" is the whole key. Now in my 70's I've learned you can do just about everything, it just takes much longer and not trying to do it all at once is a real key. It takes some retraining to get into a new rhythm of doing simple tasks in stages. For instance I used to wax my entire Van at once, then it was 1/2 one day, take a day off, 1/2 the next day, another day off and then the roof. Now it takes about 6 days, 1/4 each day and two days for the roof. I also almost always do stuff outside early in the A.M and never fight the heat if it's going to be hot that day. Larry
LarryJM 09/20/19 12:36am Travel Trailers
RE: Refrigerator Outside Vents

Hey jkwilson, which piece, top (finished piece of dark wood exposing gap at top of refrigerator) or bottom (splintered piece exposing fins)? OP cut out two different pieces. Are you saying he should have left both pieces alone? The section closing off the dead space on top of the actual refrigerator box should have been left there. It is required so an air pocket doesn't form which will acually block off/disrupt the flow of the air thru the coils on the back of the refrigerator. This problem is much like AFAIK the tailgate up/down when towing where leaving the tailgate up creates an air pocket in the bed of the pickup where the air flow then flows smoothly over this air pocket instead of forming a turbulance in the bed of the pickup causing more drag. The air pocket that can form over this dead space on top of the refer can force the flow of air up closest to the refer out from the back of the refer and result in less actual air flow over the fins which are located near the back of the actual refer. That is to say now the actual air flow is concentrated more near the wall of the trailer and less close to the actual back of the refer. Also, removing the other section along the outer wall of the trailer just inside the access door might also make air flow worse since now you are allowing air to escape to the outside thru the access door before it has a chance to flow over those top fins. I'm sure there are some specs on the sizing and positioning of that opening to maximize the air flow thru the fins is somewhere in the installation manual. It appears this installation doesn't have a top vent, but is vented thru that top access door if I'm understanding these pics correctly. IMO the OP definitely made matters worse when he removed both those sections and is why folks need to think a little before blindly modding their trailer. Things like applicance, A/C, heating, systems installed in trailers are designed sometimes with very unique and specific requirements which if not followed results in them not functioning to their specs or even causing a hazardous condition (i.e. fire, ventillation, etc.) Larry
LarryJM 09/17/19 03:51am Tech Issues
RE: Roll over

Looks like the 1/2 full fresh water tank in behind the axles which reduces the overall stability and sort of reminds me of a story on the R-Vision boards several years ago. That gent had towed his trailer for several years and always dumped before leaving the CG except one weekend the dump was closed and he left the CG with partially full tanks and lost control due to sway withing 10 mi of leaving the CG. Obviously other factors were involved, but it's possible this one additionally negative factor was the one that caused a marginally stable trailer (which probably appeared to be fine), with a VERY LARGE TAIL on a small to medium DOG to now become UNSTABLE and UNSAFE. This is all pure speculation, but does cause one to stop and reflect on what that previously was not considered possible to now be a actual possibility. Larry
LarryJM 09/17/19 12:13am Travel Trailers
RE: Goodyear Endurance long term review.

Not to be too critical, but if I only got about 25,000 miles out of my tires I don't think I'd buy more of the same. Especially if I had one that developed a flat spot, one slightly out of round, and one starting to crack. Would you be happy with tires like that on your car? I certainly wouldn't. IMO, a very mileading post showing almost a total lack of understanding in trying to compare ST type tires to those typically used on cars/POVs. As noted the tread depth is much less (about 50%) of that of the typical car/POV type tire. IMO the flat spot and cracking might be due to other factors not related to ST tire quality/durability. LarryThe point I was trying to make that why settle for ST tires with shorter lifeapan and issues they seem to have, when you can put LT tires on there and, basically, no longer have to worry. Why settle for substandard tires when you don't have to. You wouldn't settle for them on your car, why put up with them on your trailer. ST tires have no real benefits, and you put up with a shorter lifespan and quality issues. Thanks, but no thanks. Again you don't seem to understand that I would wagger that a VERY, VERY large percentage (probably 75% or greater) of all TT use 14in tires where LTs are simply not available or even exist. Couple that with a lot of factory axle spacing again even makes moving up to an LT tire which most are 16in is again not a trivial mod and I've not even addressed the width increases for LTs that might cause interference issues with things like wheel well trim or internal clearances. As far as putting up with shorter lifespan and quality issues, in the 40 years of TT ownership and using GY STs since the mid 90's except for one set of Kumho 857s I have only experienced tread separation and actual tire failures with the Kumho 857s and have never gotten less than 5 to 7 years use out of the STs I have used. While I might only be a data point of one, but that data point says all your worries is without any real foundation and not based on real world verifiable facts. Larry
LarryJM 09/05/19 08:04pm General RVing Issues
RE: Goodyear Endurance long term review.

Not to be too critical, but if I only got about 25,000 miles out of my tires I don't think I'd buy more of the same. Especially if I had one that developed a flat spot, one slightly out of round, and one starting to crack. Would you be happy with tires like that on your car? I certainly wouldn't. IMO, a very mileading post showing almost a total lack of understanding in trying to compare ST type tires to those typically used on cars/POVs. As noted the tread depth is much less (about 50%) of that of the typical car/POV type tire. IMO the flat spot and cracking might be due to other factors not related to ST tire quality/durability. Larry
LarryJM 09/05/19 04:32pm General RVing Issues
RE: Tongue jack collapsed, TT nose crashed down - ouch!

IMO the most dangerous time is when one unhooks the ball from the trailer and here is where an electric jack is a HUGE HELP. When doing this I always stand as far to the side and towards the trailer when raising the tongue to disconnect it from the ball and am ready to jump further out of the way side ways if necessary. Larry
LarryJM 08/27/19 04:40am Tech Issues
RE: Tires

You can't go wrong installing a set of Maxxis M8008 ST tires. They are available in 8 ply rating. Be sure to have them balanced. X2 though I cannot imagine buying any tire and not having it balanced. :h :C Many, Many and the VAST MAJORITY of trailer manufacturers do not balance the tires on trailers since there is no real reason except to make one feel good to do so. Larry
LarryJM 08/26/19 04:19am Travel Trailers
RE: Electric tongue jack. Good brand name?

Barker, mine is probably over 30 years old and on it's second trailer. Larry
LarryJM 08/23/19 04:50pm Tech Issues
RE: A/C on 116 volts?

I have one of these RV120VAC VOLTMETER (AMAZON) installed in one of my AC receptacles to alow me to watch the AC VOLTAGE all the time... This has the GREEN SCALE on it for easy viewing... That green scale is off quite a bit since anything above 105 volts is acceptable. I suggest buying a digital voltmeter. YEP IMO that meter is fairly worthless, but if it makes you feel good go for it:E Larry
LarryJM 08/09/19 05:00pm Tech Issues
RE: Nose Piece Waxing/Cleaning Bugs Off

I can't reach the top of the nose piece of my 5th wheel to clean the bugs off sufficiently or wax it with my 8 foot step ladder. If I could get closer it wouldn't be a problem but because I'm not going to lean the ladder against the nose where I could damage it I'm having a difficult time reaching. Using a long brush to wash it works fine but not for the finer detailing of it. If I was younger, I would just climb up on the roof, lay down and reach over the front to do the part I can't reach. We don't have an RV detailer in my area and I wouldn't trust some kid to do a decent job either. I'm stumped! Do any of you have any suggestions? Go to the linen closet and get two of the nicest and largest bath towels you can find, fold them and duct tape them to the ladder, then lean it against the cap. Do not tell your wife you're taking them. I do something similiar, but use an old blanket folded and then drapped over the top of a 8' step ladder and lay it against the front with most of the blanket between the ladder and the trailer to protect it from the ladder. Works great for reaching the top 1/3 of the trailer front especially for waxing and using an electric buffer after waxing. I tried using a 6' ladder, but the 8' works 10x better. Larry
LarryJM 08/03/19 08:09pm General RVing Issues
RE: Plastic wheel well trim looks horrible

While washing my 5th wheel I noticed that the plastic trim around the wheel wells still looks dirty although I have tried everything to get them clean. I washed them with different cleaners and even used my pressure washer on them, What can I do to get them looking good again? The 5th wheel is only a little over two years old. Thanks! Dave Personally, I would use either Colorbond or Plasti-Dip instead of any paint. I used Colorbond on my vinyl hose carrier back in about 2010 and Plasti-Dip around the same time on my ABS trim pieces (wheel well trim, LP tank cover, and even the aluminum skirting along the bottom of the trailer). Both have held up suprisingly well. I like these two options since you can periodically used 303 to add aditional protection. The Colorbond is permanent whereas the Plasti-Dip can be removed and refinished with something else. Larry
LarryJM 07/31/19 05:19pm Tech Issues
RE: Help what tongue weight F150

The HDPP F150 is also called, "the unicorn"....Yes, rare and pricey. This guy is the first I have seen that claims different. Ever since they became "available" posters on this site have stated that they just are not on dealers lots. Everyone that wants one, orders it. And you're most likely to pay dearly whereas going with the more traditional F250/350 deals do exist with some units in stock and the capabilites will most likely be greater than these nearly non existant "UNICORNS";):B Larry
LarryJM 07/01/19 04:10am Travel Trailers
RE: bottle jacks for stabilization?

I've always used the 4 scissors jacks to stabilize the trailer. Never did a very good job: there's stil considerable movement. But recently to cope with a very unlevel site I used a bottle jack under one side of the frame. The site was so unlevel left-right that I jacked up that side enough that the wheels were off the ground. And that's how I camped for the 3 days. I did not use the scissors jacks at all. I was impressed by how stable the trailer was. Still a little movement though. So I put a second bottle jack under the frame on the other side and jacked it up just enough to make it tight. So the weight was now being supported at 3 points: the tongue and the two bottle jacks. The trailer was now rock-steady! This seems like the way to go. Forget about the scissors jacks entirely; jack up the two sides and take all the weight off the tires. Leveling and stabilizing in one! Pros and cons? I redid a 1975 Fleetwood Prowler. The old jacks were broken and welded on. I was gonna have to cut em off. I put 4 jack stands ender it on the frame. Solid as a rock. I finally used a Sawzall and cut the old jacks off. I lower the front jack, install the rear jack stands, then used the front jack to raise the front end. Then I put 2 under the frame. near the tongue. Quick and easy. Faster than hand turning the old jacks into position. I did the same thing and for those interested I discussed this method in some detail in THIS THREAD and you have to read ALL MY POSTS in that thread from the beginning to get the entire story. Two critical keys in using these jackstands are the locations (close to the axles) and getting sufficient force on them to eliminate the suspension and tire "bounce". You CAN NOT hand tighten them to get this and must use the tongue jack to get the necessary force on them. As one poster mentioned extending these jackstands too high w/o sufficient force then you WILL NOT get the stability needed. Larry
LarryJM 06/27/19 05:20pm Travel Trailers

Pure Peppermint oil on cotton balls in all hidden places and drawers. I even leave a few laying around on counters. Works 100% of the time for us, and the coach smells great! Myth. Doesn't work, what you are seeing is a "coincidence" that you are not seeing mice. Goes for drier sheets, ultrasonic devices, moth balls and pretty much every other home and "as seen on TV" mythical potions and devices. NOTHING and I mean NOTHING works except for PLUGGING the TINY HOLES they are getting through. Your RV the manufacturer may have done a decent job PLUGGING holes which may be why you are not seeing mice in YOUR RV. My first TT, had lots of issues with mice getting in, my second and current TT I have NO PROBLEM with mice getting in. Both TTs were parked IN THE SAME EXACT SPOT. I do not have never had a personal cat around the yard to reduce the mice population, in fact, the first TT I had a neighbor across the road that had an outdoor cat which often visited my yard.. and YET I had mice trouble with the first TT. That cat died after I got my second TT and my second TT I have no issues with mice.. The difference? I personally PLUGGED EVERY SINGLE HOLE where plumbing and wiring went from outside into the inside that I could find in my second TT. Plug the holes and they will not come in. Good luck trying to seal up a slide out so mice can't get in .... NOT GOING TO HAPPEN!!!!. By it's very nature slide outs are going to ALWAYS be the weak spot for critters to get into a trailer. Larry
LarryJM 06/18/19 03:55am General RVing Issues

Catchmaster Glue Boards at Amazon - take your pick height=500 These fold into boxes - pull out your draws and put a few on the floor under them. Put them where ever you think the mice might run through them. Once they're stuck, you'll probably need to finish them off. These traps work for just about anything that crawls including ants. We also battle mice and found the glue traps the best solution with a tad of peanut butter on them works like a charm. You just need to check them every couple of days and dispose of those caught and refresh those that have done their job. Larry
LarryJM 06/17/19 02:51am General RVing Issues
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 3  

New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:

© 2019 CWI, Inc. © 2019 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved. | Terms of Use | PRIVACY POLICY | YOUR PRIVACY RIGHTS