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 > Your search for posts made by 'Lumpty' found 13 matches.

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RE: Changing a tire yourself

Luckily never had a flat on the current Class C, but have rotated a 6 tires a few times. To do so requires jacking opposite diagonal corners up. I use my 3-ton floor jack under the axle corner, and a 6-ton bottle jack under the front Twin-I beam. Each only has to be lifted enough to daylight under the tires. The bottle jack lives in the motorhome, along with the appropriate socket, 1/2” drive extension and breaker bar. If I had to change a tire on the road I could do it easily.
Lumpty 10/26/21 05:23pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Handling “hard dried stuff” in the black tank ?

Buy some ice, like at least 30 lbs worth. Dump it down the toilet into the black tank. Add a little water. Also pour down the hole a lot of liquid laundry detergent. Then, go for a spirited, bumpy and curvy road drive. Afterwards. let it sit for an hour or two, then dump. That should get all the petrified poop out.
Lumpty 10/12/21 07:38pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Mildew

I have MaxAir covers over all my roof vents which are open when the RV is not in use. Anytime expect the heat of summer, I will use multiple DampRid tubs to suck the moisture out of the inside air. During winter, I'll change them out every couple of months. I also leave cabinet doors, the fridge and microwave open. Never had any mold/mildew issues, even living in the northeast with a lot of humidity and temperature swings.
Lumpty 10/04/21 06:12pm General RVing Issues
RE: Seats in a 2021 Forester Classic w/ Ford 450 chassis

If this is on a Ford, there is an OEM power base that should be available. I have one in my '11 E450 Sunseeker 2300, where my chassis was optioned that way in the Forest River fleet order. A harness jumper to the seat base may also be needed. There are some online parts diagrams available that could be a help. I agree, the power seat makes the somewhat confining Ford cab much more comfortable.
Lumpty 09/18/21 04:05pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: House battery recommendations.............

I have a pair of, IIRC for size, Group 31 AGM's I bought from Sam's Club 4+ years ago. Not outrageously priced, and have worked fine. No issues using all 12v stuff whenever needed for up to 48 hours. We almost exclusively dry camp at race tracks, and will only run the generator if A/C is needed or to use the microwave.
Lumpty 09/02/21 07:35pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: RV/CG site near Flowery Branch, Georgia

Any number of Corps campgrounds around Lake Lanier. There is also a Forsyth County campground in Cumming that the County took from the ACOE.
Lumpty 08/31/21 06:42pm RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
RE: full size corner bed vs queen corner bed

We've got a corner queen, full 60x80. My wife, who can and does if given the opportunity sleeps 12 hours straight, is on the outside wall. Me, who has to get up at least once a night, takes the bathroom side of the bed. This is a Serta pillow top innerspring mattress that was an option for our year of Sunseeker, and while branded as an RV mattress is pretty much identical to an at-home bed. It's my job to put the mattress pad and fitted bottom sheet on, as that is a wrestling match done kneeling on the middle of the bed, and peeling up the RR corner to get those things started, same he-man action for the corner at the back of the bathroom and rear wall, then get off and do the other two corners at the toe-end of the mattress standing on the floor. For covers, everything is loose and thrown over. We each have different preferences for those when sleeping - she like her feet out and I don't for one, so we've taken to each having our our sheet and/or comforter. While that may be weird, it works for us and I sleep better. Our floorplan does not have a short closet overhanging the end of the bed. We don't find the bed area at all claustrophobic, and it was the only way to get the needed minimum living area in a short, no-slide, 24' length. To get out of bed, I just swing my legs up and down quickly, and that inertia scootches me down the bed so my legs can get down to the floor. It might take another move, but nothing hard for getting out the end.
Lumpty 04/22/21 05:08am Class C Motorhomes
RE: 5050 miles in 9 Travel Days

I don’t have quite the endurance I used to, but I routinely do Daytona home to northern NJ in a 15-16 hour trip, 1050 miles. The quicker elapsed times have been in either a Corvette or Golf Sportwagen, with the 16 hour mark driving the Class C. In that, the cruise set at an indicated 70, which is actually a true 68, and stopping just for gas, potty and eating on the road. Usually leave at 5:30am and in my driveway by 9:30pm. Another trip we do annually is to Elkhart Lake, WI. Leave there at 5am, which is a necessity to get around Chicago before the morning rush, lose an hour crossing into Eastern time, and again home in 15 hours in the motorhome for that 900 miles. My distance/time record is actually Topeka, KS back to NJ, in a GMC 2500HD crew cab towing a 20’ enclosed car trailer. 1250 miles in 18 hours. Left at 5:30am Central and home at 12:30am. That truck and trailer combo was super stable at 70-75; the glitch was the 26 gallon fuel tank and 9mpg meant stopping every 200 to 210 or so miles. That trip was 2007, and being 14 years younger made a different in how much stuffing I had. These days though, I like to be off the road by 9-10pm. Hence why I’m only good for 1000-ish miles. Also of note, these are just one-shot banzai runs to or from a destination I’m at for at least a week. I’m still working, so maximum time away for minimum vacation time.
Lumpty 04/13/21 05:51pm General RVing Issues
RE: Foremost insurance

Always used them for insurance on the two Class C's I've had, both registered in NJ which is not a cheap insurance state. Set up directly with the company; no agents involved. The premium on the 2011 Sunseeker bought new that I've had for 10 years now is $650 a year, with up to full cost of original purchase price coverage with $1000 deductibles, and $500k CSL liability. No reason to change companies, but never have had a claim so no experience to offer that way.
Lumpty 03/30/21 05:46pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: 6 liter V8 Chevy Vortec question

I've had, in order, a '94 E350 with an EFI 460/E4OD (245hp/410 ft-lbs, with a 4.10 rear), an '04 GMC 2500HD with the LQ4 6.0/4L80E (300hp/360 ft-lbs with 4,10's) and the current '10 chassis E450 that has a SOHC V10 and 5R110 (305hp/420 ft-lbs and a 4.56 rear). Up to a certain weight, about 15,000 GCW, the 6.0 was definitely the snappiest, and felt the most responsive. One time I had about 1000 lbs more in the trailer, approaching 9,000 lbs, pretty much right on the chassis limit of 16,000lbs GCWR, and it was not happy. Night and day how that 1,000 lbs emasculated it. mileage was always in the 8's, maybe 9 tops. Going back to the 460 in the 1st Class C, it was classic big block power and torque. I didn't ever tow heavy with it, at the most 5500-6000lbs and a GCE of 18,500lbs, right on the chassis rating, but the drivetrain just shrugged, never feeling stressed. Mileage though was terrible. Solo, 7-7.5, towing, 6-6.5. So onto the current V10. Never feels as eager as the 6.0 nor as unstressed as the 460, but after 80k+ miles, I am a begrudging fan. It has pulled 9000lbs, plus the 24' Class C it's in, all-up at 20,000lbs +. Solo mileage is around 8, towing 7, and has never pulled a hill (nothing out west but has done a bunch on the Mass Pike in the Berkshires and Fancy Gap on I-77) at less than 55, with plenty of pedal left. I agree the V10 does not make V8 noises; I'd much rather listen to the 6.0 LQ4 at 4500rpm than the V10, but for hauling ability, there's no comparison. The 2V SOHC V10 has gone into thousands of Class A's, which is not something that can be said for the 6.0. As cheap as RV manufacturers are, if it was a suitable engine for heavier weights, it would have been available in the Workhorse stripped chassis when they were available, instead of the 8.1 only.
Lumpty 02/13/21 07:43am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Ford Triton V-10 Info Request

The 2v V10 got the PI heads that made a bit more power (305/310hp depending on chassis compared to the original 275hp) and had more spark plug threads 2003 and later. That engine was just phased out of Class C's this year; the 3v heads were too big to fit in the Econoline doghouse and cab opening. The 5R110 trans replaced the 4R100 in 2005, with the 6R140 intro'ed in Class A's and C's only a few years ago. I have 80k miles on a 2010 E450 V10/5R110 chassis. The only things done to the drivetrain have been oil changes, a tensioner and serpentine belt, filters, trans fluid change and, and recently, plugs and coils (that was an ugh! job - 6 hours and every 1/4" and 3/8" extension, wobble and universal that I had got used!). I did have the electronic throttle sensor at the pedal go bad 3 years ago at 48k miles, but that was a fluke failure. This engine though, like the GM 6.0 and now 6.6 gas engines, needs RPM to make power. Mine will easily maintain 65-70mph in all terrain, but with the E450's 4.56 rear, needs a 5-4 downshift, which puts the V10 at 3800rpm. The engine doesn't care, but the typical driver used to big-block torque at lesser twist needs to adjust their expectations.
Lumpty 12/29/20 05:10am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Oil for generator

Another Rotella 15w-40 user here.
Lumpty 12/13/20 04:10pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dumping at Home

My driveway goes to a side entry garage, with my septic tank located at mid-point of garage along the adjacent front wall offset about 10’ from the house. If I back the RV to that corner of the driveway, the dump outlet is about 25’ from the inlet clean-out to the tank. Grade is about 2-3% uphill towards the clean-out. So how to dump? A “Sewer Solution”. I’ve got a hose bib on the other side of the garage doors, and a double length of Sewer Solution hose connected together is plenty to get from connection to clean-out. Water power handles the slope fine. And no construction needed.
Lumpty 12/10/20 05:51pm General RVing Issues
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