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 > Your search for posts made by 'Njmurvin' found 33 matches.

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RE: Best RV King Size Bed

We have a Sleep Number at home set to 95 (we like it firm). We have the Amazon Zinus queen firm bed from Amazon in the 5th wheel and love it. I'm not sure how it would hold up to full timing but, for occasional use, it seems to be working fine.
Njmurvin 10/13/21 01:56pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Scary moment towing my 5er around Denver last week

It happened twice to me on my last trip. In almost all cases when this has happened to me, the offending driver comes across (often multiple lanes) from my left to get to an exit that he/she is about to miss. Because I try to leave a pretty good gap between me and the car in front of me, it's mistaken as an invitation to CUT ME OFF. When it gets really "interesting" is when the knucklehead realizes the exit lane to our right is unexpectedly stopped, full and unavailable. That's when he/she slams on the brakes and the "code brown" moment ensues. The last time it happened to me, it was a mom in a minivan full of kids. I honestly don't think she has a clue how close we all came to having a really bad day.
Njmurvin 08/21/21 04:56pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: 5th wheel Hitch recommendations

OK. I'm not familiar with that pin box. It sounds like it has a lot going on. So, I would probably stay with a conventional 5th wheel hitch. Check out etrailer.com for makes/models that will fit your OEM pucks. Hopefully, someone with your same setup will comment on this thread and share their experiences.
Njmurvin 08/09/21 01:52pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: 5th wheel Hitch recommendations

Long or short bed? You're going to get a lot of opinions here: Slider vs. non-slider, gooseneck, Andersen, conventional 5th wheel hitch, etc.). What kind of puck system is being installed? Is it just for a gooseneck (like a B&W turnover) or is it more like an OEM puck system with 5 holes? Personally, I have owned a Pullrite Superglide and now use an Andersen Ultimate Hitch and I love it. Easy to get in/out, quiet and solid operation and if you have a short bed, it can give you more cab clearance potentially avoiding a slider hitch.
Njmurvin 08/09/21 12:15pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Replacing front landing gear box and motor.

From etrailer.com: Question - "Do you need to place a support jack under trailer before you remove gearbox ? My tube on the gear side did not retract the same amount as the non gearbox side. I suspect gearbox may need replaced." Expert Reply - "If you can level your trailer it is not necessary to add an additional support jack before removing your gearbox. The gearbox turns the screw that activates the jack, but it also has a fail safe that does not allow the jack to drop if the gearbox is removed. In the case you are not able to level your trailer, you will need an additional support jack." All that said, I'm paranoid about being crushed. So, I'd hook it up to my truck for peace of mind.
Njmurvin 08/05/21 12:09pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Help with awning

They usually fail in the first foot from the edge of the trailer as it's exposed to UV damage all the time. The rest is protected by being inside the role when not deployed. There are some tapes that can act as a temporary fix to get by but not a great long term solution. We actually had good luck with just a piece of eternabond tape where there was a small tear on the edge of an otherwise good canvas. Lasted 3yrs but looked redneck. They do make an aluminum cover that forms the first part of the awning that keeps it out of the sun when rolled up but the fabric is usually good for around 10yrs, so unless you are planning to keep your 10yr old trailer for more than 10yrs, probably not worth the trouble. It's not that hard to replace the fabric and not too bad of a price. Several places online you can order it from and youtube can show you how to do it. (or just pay an RV tech for an hour to do it) Exactly! It's only the first foot or so of the awning that's damaged from sun exposure while rolled up. Seems such a waste to have to replace the entire awning because of this. I bought this unit 5 years ago and the awnings were replaced at that time by the dealer I bought it from. So, the OEM awning only lasted 5 years. Here we are 5 years later and it needs it again. If it weren't for the sun exposure on the rolled up part of the awning, it would easily have lasted 10 years or more. That's why I'm looking for sun protection for the next awning that I buy. It looks like the Alumaguard may just do the trick IF it can work with the Carefree electric mechanism.
Njmurvin 07/28/21 03:46pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Which tire do I buy?

I've had really good service from Michelin LTX A/T 2. Had 2 sets on my Ram and my Silverado came from the factory with them. I tried a set of Hankooks in between and they just didn't measure up.
Njmurvin 07/24/21 03:40pm Fifth-Wheels
Help with awning

I have an 18’ power awning. I believe it to be a Carefree of Colorado product (so says a label on the spool). The two layer fabric is breaking down within the first foot or two from the trailer. The top layer is peeling off where it is exposed to the sun when in storage. First of all, since the rest of the awning is in good shape, is there something I can use to repair the peeled section? My assumption is that I will have to replace the entire fabric. Secondly, does anyone make a retrofit cover that will prevent this from happening again? I see there are removable covers on Amazon but I’d like something affixed to the awning that stays on permanently and protects the awning fabric from the sun while it’s rolled up.
Njmurvin 07/12/21 02:21pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Tire wear

$613.17 latter I have 4 new tires on the 5vr. The date code for the tires is 4920 . I had metal valve stems put in so I can use a TPMS system with the tires. I plan on having the axle checked when I put the camper away at the end of the season. 5 years old - they were needing replacement anyway. I had a similar wear pattern on mine after a long trip via I5 from So Calif to Oregon and back. The roads were very torn up in places and under construction in others - I believe to this day that trip kicked the axles out of alignment. I noticed the uneven wear (also inside wear) when we got home. I replaced my tires (like yours, they needed to be replaced anyway). And, I took the trailer to a commercial trailer alignment place and had the axles aligned. I think it cost in the neighborhood of $300 or so.
Njmurvin 07/01/21 01:03pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Capture plate?

OP, if you live in the So Cal area I have a couple of different capture plates to choose from that I'd be willing to give you. One is a universal mount type that attaches to the pinbox with allen set screws (which I replaced with stainless steel to avoid rust). The other requires that you drill holes in your pinbox and connects with small nuts/bolts. It was fitted to an older Fleetwood Terry 5th wheel trailer. I would need some dimensions of your pinbox's kingpin plate to determine if either is a fit.
Njmurvin 06/29/21 02:52pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Turning a FW around in a Culdesac

I have a similar setup as described. I can manage the turn if no one is parked on the loop I have to make. Last time I attempted this, there were two cars parked and I gave it a shot anyway. Big mistake. I got it around. But it tested my nerves and skills to the hilt. Next time that happens, I'll be trying the back-in method.
Njmurvin 06/14/21 12:31pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: King pin lock

No worries here ,the Andersen hitch with the adapter just about eliminates my fifth wheel getting stolen. Haha. My thoughts exactly. Thieves would have to carry a big a$$ed wrench and allen wrench to remove the adapter. That's only IF they realize there's a king pin hiding inside.
Njmurvin 06/05/21 12:27pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Landing gear 911

Either one of the above will probably work unless you have a two motor setup and need the RPMs to match the other leg. Try to get the faster one that matches your OEM but if it's an emergency, you can probably get away with the slower motor and upgrade later if desired. I recently upgraded to a dual motor setup and I highly recommend it. It's a fairly simple job to replace the motor. Lots of videos on youtube explaining the process.
Njmurvin 06/05/21 12:18pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Electrical problem with front stabilizers. Update.

Assuming there is a circuit breaker in the path between the battery and switch as MFL pointed out above, your direct wire from battery to switch is bypassing that breaker. If I had to guess, I would say that the circuit breaker is tripping as soon as it senses a load. I would start by replacing that breaker. And definitely put a fuse or CB in your temporary circuit as pointed out because it's possible that there's a short somewhere in or after the switch that could be causing the existing breaker to trip.
Njmurvin 05/29/21 12:34pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: 5th wheel or gooseneck?

Andersen vs "TOG"(The Other Guy) threads tend to become pretty contentious at times. I'm a B&W fanboy, but IMO if you stick to 5th wheels of 10,000 lbs. or less, the Andersen is an adequate hitch. But as I said, JMO. The Andersen is rated at 24000lbs trailer/4500lbs hitch. I probably would look for something beefier at those numbers. But, I feel very confident pulling my 12K lb AF with it.
Njmurvin 05/02/21 02:13pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Standard hitch vs. gooseneck hitch

I do have a dog in the hunt (sort of) in that I own an Andersen Ultimate Connection. I think the letter from Keystone is pretty clear that they no longer support these hitches. It's nice that they've grandfathered in existing owners. In my case, my trailer's frame warranty has long expired. I'm not particularly concerned as so many of these hitches are pulling much larger trailers than mine with no issues and because of the fact that Northwoods (Arctic Fox) has a reputation for building a very stout frame.
Njmurvin 04/12/21 05:30pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Breakaway Cable on Andersen Hitch.

Apparently, there is still some debate about this. From etrailer.com's FAQs ... Question: Should the cable be slightly longer than the safety chain not applying the brakes until after the chains broke or slightly shorter applying brakes if hitch came off ball but still attached by safety chains Expert Reply: The best length for the cable of a breakaway system like the Tow Ready Trailer Break Away Kit # 50-85-315 that you referenced will be slightly longer than the safety chains. The breakaway cable should be longer than the safety chains according to RVIA Recreational Vehicle Industry Association. This will activate the brakes in the event you lose the trailer connection and the safety chains fail.
Njmurvin 03/26/21 02:41pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Breakaway Cable on Andersen Hitch.

I guess it's the "Secondly ..." point that I'm a still bit fuzzy on. I get that you don't want the trailer to collide with the truck. Having the trailer brakes suddenly and completely engage like that will put an immediate stress on the chains and their mount points. If they don't hold, well I guess you're into the "First ..." scenario above. If they do hold, you're asserting that you have more control over a trailer with its brakes fully locked up than you have by feathering the brakes using the brake pedal and manual control on the brake controller (assuming your 7 pin cord is still connected).
Njmurvin 03/26/21 01:43pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Breakaway Cable on Andersen Hitch.

I'm looking to be educated here. My trailer 7 pin cord is much longer than the chains. If the hitch lets go and the chains hold, then the trailer cord would still be attached and I would still have control of the trailer brakes. Is that better or worse than having the breakaway cable pull and automatically lock up the trailer brakes? I always thought the breakaway cable was there for when a trailer becomes completely detached from the tow vehicle.
Njmurvin 03/26/21 12:58pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Breakaway Cable on Andersen Hitch.

Safety Chains are required for the Anderson Hitch as it is considered a Gooseneck connection - ball. This from Andersen's website .... "This is kind of a grey area. We were tested as a fifth wheel hitch and are approved as a fifth wheel hitch. According to DOT regulations because it is a fifth wheel hitch we does not need safety chains. However we do utilize a gooseneck ball to secure the fifth wheel hitch into place creating a solid base with no moving points. On conventional gooseneck trailers chains are required due to the latching mechanism on the gooseneck trailer. The Andersen Ultimate Connection does not utilize a latch nor does it pivot at the point of the ball. Our unconventional setup is much like the OEM puck system that is utilized to accept fifth wheel hitches sold in the newer trucks today. Unfortunately it is up to the DOT office to interpret the regulations and laws. We have only heard of one case, out of the 35,000 units that we have on the road today, where the DOT officer insisted on having the customer add safety chains to his setup. For this reason we do offer safety chains (part # 3230) for our Ultimate Connection." For the record, I prefer not to have a conversation with LE on the matter. So, I use safety chains.
Njmurvin 03/21/21 12:08pm Fifth-Wheels
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