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 > Your search for posts made by 'Rick Jay' found 115 matches.

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RE: Tips on asking friends for mootchdocking?

By the way, I got a chuckle out of "mootchdocking". I never heard that before! LOL I'm not sure if this was mentioned yet, if so, I apologize. You have to make sure that the place that you want to stay does not have restrictions about having an RV in the driveway. Other than that, I guess it depends upon your relationship with the people. We went up to visit my brother in another state. We're a family of 6. With a group that size, you can't just "drop in". LOL Anyway, their driveway was long enough to handle our 36' motorhome. The first time we went up there, we used a 20A 120V line to power the RV. We survived, but I've always said "Roughing it, for us, is not being able to use both A/Cs!" LOL. Next we went up (we were invited back, by the way! LOL) I asked if it would be OK to install a 50A 240V/120V on that side of the house. They said "Yes", I did, and that made future visits a piece of cake. A side story...they now use that outlet, with the addition of a GFCI, for their hot tub. ~Rick
Rick Jay 09/01/21 11:09am Beginning RVing
RE: Fuel leaking from within the generator

I don't believe the fuel line is a gravity feed. I say this because I believe the pickup tube comes out the top of the gas tank. I know it does on my rig (Class A, so it might be different.) That said, it IS a siphon issue. If there is gas in the line and you open the line (or a leak develops), the siphoning action will allow the gas to continue to flow until either the siphon is broken or the level of gas drops below the pickup tube. Which will also break the siphon action. Please be careful as your troubleshoot this problem. Make sure all of the leaked gasoline is cleaned up before you try to start the generator. Good Luck, ~Rick
Rick Jay 08/27/21 04:18pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Fuel leaking from within the generator

Whataday, WOW!!! THAT is a LOT of fuel to leak out. I'm not sure if your Onan 400 shares a similar design to our Onan Marquis Gold 7kWatt (also gas). I'm going back a number of years here, so hopefully my memory isn't too far off. I can tell you that originally my generator had two fuel filters: one right on the generator and another before the generator fuel pump. It was kind of strange, but that's the way they did it. Well, getting the fuel lines on the filter on the generator tight enough so they wouldn't leak was a bit of a trick. It was behind the air cleaner housing. If you completely removed the air cleaner housing assembly, you could generally get things tight enough. But if you tried to take a shortcut and not remove the air cleaner assembly, you couldn't get the connections tight enough and it would eventually vibrate loose and leak. I noticed mine leaking one time. This was a couple of weeks after I did the fuel filter change. It didn't leak immediately after I changed the filter. When I went to the local Onan parts distributor, he sold me a "new" filter kit. It only had the one filter that went down by the fuel pump and a little doodad (technical term) which permanently replaced the filter mounted on the generator. It was a short length of tube which had six sides (like a nut) so that it could easily be tightened with the air cleaner assembly in place. Apparently, the leaking was a very common problem, so they removed one of the filters from the system and replace it with this new part. Since this new "doodad" didn't have to be serviced, it minimized that leaking issue once it was installed properly. Here's a link which talks about the Onan gas fuel filters. Again, this was for the Onan Marquis Gold generators. Again, I have no idea if your 4000 series is similar, but if it is, perhaps that's the problem. Check to see if there is a filter mounted on the generator and if it's leaking fuel, or looks like the source of the leak. Perhaps your generator never got the update kit. Good Luck, ~Rick
Rick Jay 08/27/21 01:32pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: 2008 Jayco M-28 Quality

Snomas, This is a seller's market for RV's. I've heard of people of selling their RV's for what they paid NEW for them 2 years ago. That's unheard of!!! I don't think the NADA numbers mean much for anyone selling who has a pulse on the current market. I think things will get much better in a year or so, hopefully, when the many people who recently bought RV's for the first time realize they're a lot of work, and not any cheaper than other types of vacations. So if you can wait this out, it'll work in your favor. Remember that if you DO pay their asking price and the market softens up dramatically in a year and you need to sell it, you might have to take a substantial loss by selling it in the NADA range. You're the buyer, make a fair offer with the proverbial "cash in hand". It's up to the seller to accept it or not. Be prepared to walk away. If the rig is still for sale a week or so later, try again. Good Luck, ~Rick
Rick Jay 08/25/21 05:34pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Winnebago High beam replacement

Two travelers, The water is getting in from elsewhere. :) Perhaps a failed seal on the lens? Are the front lenses plastic like most are now? If so, the brute force way of dealing with the issue is to put the vehicle on level ground, use an 1/8" drill right in the center of where the water is collecting and drill through it from the outside. That should allow any water to drain out. Good Luck, ~Rick
Rick Jay 08/25/21 05:23pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Workhorse W24 (8.1L) fuel filter

init6, Hopefully you don't NEED the fuel filter. Is the rig still running? If so, that takes a bit of the pressure off. I ordered a couple to keep on hand...just in case. I like to carry spare filters of all types as I travel, and I don't want to be stuck someplace because my adapter failed. Or perhaps somebody removed and disposed of my filter/adapter combo without my permission. Hopefully they'll be available soon and you can "get 'er done!". Those of you who have Workhorse motorhomes might want to check to see which fuel filter you have on your rig and/or whether an adapter has been installed. If you have an adapter installed and bring your rig in for service, make sure they don't toss out the adapter. If you have an original style fuel filter with the 3 ports on it, you should order one of these adapters as the original style fuel filter is no longer available. ~Rick
Rick Jay 08/19/21 01:49pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Workhorse W24 (8.1L) fuel filter

init6, October should be about right. Here's the email I just received from their customer service: "Good afternoon, WHG481FK, filter kits are still on a national back order. Per the vendor, the delivery time has been pushed back to the end of October. We are trying to do our best to get these expedited for you. We apologize for the inconvenience but will continue to update you as we learn more. Thank you" I guess we just sit back and wait! LOL :) ~Rick
Rick Jay 08/18/21 01:19pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Workhorse W24 (8.1L) fuel filter

init6, My apologies, I didn't follow your first link. THAT is the part you need. I just went to the link in your post and that seems to be to a company where you can buy it. I was able to put an adapter in my cart. I will say, from memory, that it is quite a bit cheaper than what they were going for back in the mid-2000's. You might want to purchase a spare, just in case someone accidentally throws away. Heck...I may order one...just in case. :) I apologize for not following your link before I made the post above. Good Luck, ~Rick ON EDIT: I am going to order one for a spare, the shipping for under orders under $199 is $19.99. A bit steep, considering the size of the part. From what I remember, though, that plus the cost they're asking for the adapter is just about what they cost back in the mid-2000's. On second Edit: OK...this post cost me about $150! LOL I HATE paying more for shipping than the cost of the part, so I added some filters and miscellaneous items to the cart to balance out the shipping charge somewhat. Weird, I know. Pay $150 instead of under $40. But that's how I roll! It's the principal of the thing! LOL
Rick Jay 08/17/21 03:09pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Workhorse W24 (8.1L) fuel filter

Hi, (ON EDIT: You can probably skip this post and read my next one. :) ) Have you tried these folks: Luberfiner Click on the W18/W20/W21/W22/W24 link and scroll down to the WHG481FK part link. I'm not sure if you can buy it from the website though. You might have to call. But if you type in your zip code, it'll show distributors nearby. Turns out, I have one in the next town over. This company was mentioned from Oemy's Performance. Oemy's has been a long standing source of many Workhorse parts. Unfortunately, Oemy no longer makes his adapter, but does drop a name for Luberfiner above. By the way, the original Workhorse/GM filter did have three ports on it. The adapter, which became available soon after someone figured out that the cheaper filter could be used if someone made an adapter, was available for purchase by Oemy by the time I needed my first fuel filter change. So I purchased it way back when (2005?), and I've been using it ever since. Just make sure that IF you ever have someone else change the fuel filter to make sure they SAVE the adapter and use it on the cheaper fuel filter!!!! Good Luck, ~Rick
Rick Jay 08/17/21 11:23am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Can I rent your RV?

And during the COVID era I personally know everyone sleeping in my bed. LOL Just during COVID? My, what a saucy bunch we RV'ers can be! LOL ;) :) ~Rick
Rick Jay 08/16/21 03:05pm General RVing Issues
RE: Enhancing RV security

...I am going to take a number of steps to harden the security profile.... I really chuckled when I heard this. You sound like Robert De Niro's character Jack Byrnes in the movie "Meet the Fockers". Describing his new Class A RV called "The highlight of their twilight" to his prospective son-in-law Greg: Well, in these uncertain times, Greg, I opted for a Kevlar-reinforced hull with two-inch thick Plexiglas windows, just like the ones they designed on the Russian Widowmaker submarines. Jack used to be in the CIA! LOL I hope all of your efforts pay off, but if I was THAT worried about what I had in my RV, I don't think I'd leave the house. Computers & things can be easily replaced. Your data, however, not so much. So keep multiple backups of everything, updated daily, and if you're on the road, then that will include Cloud storage. But if they cause major damage to your motorhome trying to gain entry, you're going to be in for a lot of heartache trying to make things right. Even if you discourage them from entry, they can key the sides in seconds and cause thousands of dollars of damage on a rig with or without full body paint. If they do get in and get PO'd 'cause they don't see any "loot" to grab, they can plug your sinks and turn on the water pump to flood the RV. Or throw all sorts of things down your toilet. The bottom line is there are probably hundreds of ways to mess up one's motorhome. You're probably not going to think of all of them. Most of us don't do well trying to outsmart the criminal element. They'll do nasty things we wouldn't even think of. I think your catalytic converters will be the primary target of choice in these "uncertain times". I saw a pic the other day of a Hertz (I think) Rental truck in which they had welded a rebar cage all around the cat to prevent theft. Apparently they had numerous thefts of their cats from their fleet of vehicles. With a sawzall thieves could still get it out eventually, but it would take A LOT more cutting. It's probably enough so they move on to the next vehicle. I also remember back in the 70's when gasoline was being rationed and very difficult to get. Thieves siphoning gas became a common occurrence. So some people smartened up. Or so they thought. They purchased a LOCKING gas cap. THAT would show the prospective thieves! NOPE. The thieves just used a drill or a hammer & punch to put a hole in the tank. Now the vehicle owner not only came back to a vehicle with an empty tank, they also had to have their tank repaired/replaced. Good Luck, I hope you're successful in your attempts to keep things safe. I'd probably opt for minimal security (sure, have cameras if you wish), but just keep some cash or something else that looks valuable so that IF they break into the rig, in an easy to find place, so they can grab it and run. It's sad we have to think about these things, but if we spend all of our life worrying about them, we're going to miss a lot of life! :) ~Rick
Rick Jay 08/14/21 06:22pm General RVing Issues
RE: List some RV movies

"Lost in America" (1985) with Mel Brooks? I guess we all missed that one. Just so people don't get too excited, "Lost in America" starred Albert Brooks, along with Julie Hagerty from "Airplane". Mel Brooks would've been an improvement. ;) Of course, "RV" is always great. Gets better each time we watch it. I was a bit disappointed the first time I watched it, but now it's definitely a keeper. "The Long, Long Trailer" is just classic Lucy! "The Leisure Seeker" is an excellent movie, but not a comedy. However, I think its message would resonate with many of use here. Have tissues ready. "Meet the Fockers" is pretty good, but it's best if you watch "Meet the Parents" first, to get a sense of the family dynamics going on. And who doesn't LOVE Cousin Eddie? LOL “Clark: So, when did you get the tenement on wheels? Eddie: Oh, that uh, that there's an RV. Yeah, yeah, I borrowed it off a buddy of mine. He took my house, I took the RV. It's a good looking vehicle, ain't it? .... But, don't you go falling in love with it now, because, we're taking it with us when we leave here next month. ~Rick
Rick Jay 08/14/21 05:23pm General RVing Issues
RE: Opinions on diesel vs. gasoline

...BTW I AM the wife!! LOL Ok, my apologies. But now I have to ask...are you Billy or Kris? LOL ;)
Rick Jay 08/12/21 06:26pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: abbreviation lookup or glossary

There is a long list of multiple meaning TLAs' and though I won't post them here.... Ah yes, those in technical fields are inundated with TLA's and FLA's. Just to make sure we're all on the same page, those would be Three Letter Acronyms and Four Letter Acronyms! :B LOL ~Rick
Rick Jay 08/10/21 05:07pm Beginning RVing
RE: Opinions on diesel vs. gasoline

Will we be sorely disappointed in a gasoline engine or should we stick with diesel? Will YOU be sorely disappointed? I suspect from the framing of your post that the answer to that is quite possibly "Yes". ;) Would I? Probably not. It's a pretty subjective question that I believe only you can answer accurately. As is often stated here and I concur, THE most important part of a motorhome is the floor plan. Find a floor plan which your wife find livable, both on the road and while parked. Well, mostly your wife...but it's OK if you like it too! LOL :) Also make sure that it is on a chassis that can carry the intended weight and have adequate tow capacity without exceeding the manufacturer's ratings. If you can find all of that AND get the diesel and it is within your price range, then go for it. But if finances require that you are given a choice between a gasser with the ideal floor plan and a diesel with a less than optimum floor plan, I'd take the ideal floor plan with a gasser. Good Luck in your search, ~Rick
Rick Jay 08/10/21 05:00pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Dash AC not cold

I always just used a good temperature probe in the AC duct and added refrigerant very slowly and watched the temperature. As soon as it got to the lowest temperature and started to retreat, I stopped adding refrigerant. This worked well for me with my Classic cars with Freon 12 as well as with the R-134a. Then again, I'm no expert and was only interested in cold air from my AC unit. Agreed. Even though I had the gauges and (usually) have the graphs as well, the procedure I followed is what you state. Take your time and it works well. Obviously, the few times when I filled the system after it's been evacuated I just fill it to the proper amount by putting the refrigerant tank on a proper scale while charging the system. buystockinfun, as for the shut-off valves, I just put a standard hot-water shut-off valve from the hardware store on the input heater hose to the heater core. JRscooby, you were right, the original mention of cutting off the hot water into the heater core mentioned using vise grips. I agree, probably not the best practice, especially with older hoses which might be more brittle and subject to being damaged. I was just referring to the idea of stopping the flow of hot coolant into the heater core. :) ~Rick
Rick Jay 08/09/21 07:25am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dash AC not cold

JRscooby, I agree, and this was mentioned in the first page of posts. It would be relatively easy to add a manual shut-off valve on the inlet hose of the heater core, if there's not one already installed. It doesn't take much hot coolant leakage to overpower the cooling ability of the A/C. Buystockinfun, if there is already a manual valve installed, try shutting it off to see if that helps. Though, that wouldn't account for your low pressure readings being on the low side. Good Luck, ~Rick
Rick Jay 08/07/21 11:07am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dash AC not cold

buystockinfun, I'm sorry to hear of your A/C woes, hopefully things will be fine soon. I do have to say, though, as I read through this thread, that there are parts of your posts which suggest that you know "just enough to be dangerous", as they say. LOL A/C is not difficult work, but it IS precise work. And you can cause some expensive damage to components if procedures aren't followed properly. Proper equipment, gauge set, accurate thermometers and if possible, having the pressure/temperature/humidity charts for the system you're working on, make it easier to properly diagnose the system. As has been pointed out, too much refrigerant decreases system efficiency, so it's a very delicate balance. I believe you mentioned several times about "draining" the system. It's very important that the system be evacuated in a controlled manner. Not just "drained" as the term implies. If you just open a schrader valve and let the refrigerant out, it'll take a lot of the system oil with it. The proper oil charge in the system is very important as well. Each component that is removed will remove some of the oil with it. That oil should be measured upon removal, and an equal amount installed upon assembly. If you're going to flush the entire system anyway, then it doesn't matter much as you'll be starting from fresh with the oil charge. IF you think the system is overfilled now, I'd put some gauges on it, try to find the proper charts for your system and see how it performs based on the charts. Check the air temp leaving the vents in the moho. While releasing R-134 into the atmosphere is prohibited by law, IF you can figure out a way to slowly release some of the refrigerant, then you can stop and watch the temp in the vents. If it goes down (colder), you probably do have too much refrigerant in the system. If it goes up, you might not have enough. If it stays the same, try releasing a bit more. Of course could have other problems. But seeing as it might be overcharged, the cheapest and easiest route at this point is to slowly reduce the charge while watching the effect on outlet temps. This will take a while as you need to give some time for the system to stabilize. Even before you start doing anything, you have to let the system run for a while to stabilize the temperature of the ducting/vents etc. If all else fails with no improvement, then you'll be where you're headed now. Opening the system, replacing some common components, flushing the system, adding oil and recharging. Again, keep everything clean. Once the system has been flushed and reassembled, pull a vacuum on the system and let it stay for a couple of hours to make sure there are no leaks. Good Luck, I hope you find the source of your problem. ~Rick
Rick Jay 07/31/21 12:18pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Convection oven - phooey, Switched to Toaster oven

Thanks Alex and Tee!
Rick Jay 07/30/21 04:43pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Convection oven - phooey, Switched to Toaster oven

Alex and Tee, Would you mind supplying a bit more about the exact model you purchased? It sounds interesting, but a quick search show lots of models with "Ninja XL air fryer" in thier name. Thanks, ~Rick
Rick Jay 07/29/21 07:25pm Class A Motorhomes
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