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RE: Side door latch/lock won't close without assist...

Someone pointed me to this video which shows someone repairing a TriMark latch unit. I think it is just what I was looking for and I'm putting it here in case someone else is wondering about the interior of this latch. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Epq8MrrRF7c About 1 minute into the video, it shows the little white plastic piece and where it goes. That is the main thing I was trying to figure out as I believe it is what is supposed to keep the springy latch from extending too far (and thus making it so the door won't close without assistance). I'm going to check it out on my latch later today to see if I can get that piece to fit in the right place. I'll report back... -Chris
SJ-Chris 08/10/22 01:53pm Tech Issues
RE: Side door latch/lock won't close without assist...

It's a $25 item - just replace it. Which item is $25? A new complete door latch from TriMark is ~$150+. Are you suggesting that just a part of this latch needs to be replaced? If so, I wasn't thinking that was an option but would be good. Please elaborate. Thanks
SJ-Chris 08/09/22 04:56pm Tech Issues
RE: Side door latch/lock won't close without assist...

My original lock broke after about 10 years, and we were VERY careful about NOT slamming the door. It's replacement barely lasted four years. I then replaced that one with the new model and (knock on wood), no problems yet. ~Rick Thanks for your reply and info Rick! Question: Can you share some approximate dates/years that you are referencing? This RV I have is a 2013 model. I'm trying to figure out where that falls in your above timeline. Maybe my lock is one of the "new models" you reference above, or maybe not. On mine, the bolt (springy latch mechanism) is metal and it doesn't seem like it should get much stress so I'd be a little surprised if the metal piece broke. Thanks! Chris
SJ-Chris 08/09/22 12:35pm Tech Issues
RE: Side door latch/lock won't close without assist...

I finally got around to opening up the lock to take a look. First, this is NOT a lubrication issue. The springy part compresses and springs back perfectly fine. The issue is that the latch part that sticks out actually sticks out TOO FAR. Here is a photo: https://i.imgur.com/hQDLFh8l.jpg Because there is a flat part (circled in Yellow) sticking out, it hits the door jam when closing the door and the springy part doesn't get a chance to compress to allow it to close. It should look more like this photos: https://i.imgur.com/RYmpHedl.jpg where the slanted part of the latch will be the first thing to hit the door jam and therefore it will compress that latch and allow the door to close (and then spring back open to latch the door). I took the door latch apart. Here is what it looked like: https://i.imgur.com/30YmkHol.jpg I could see that there was a little plastic piece kind of floating around in the innards (by the springy part). I was able to get it out and it looks like this: https://i.imgur.com/cx06AlZl.jpg Is this something that broke? Does anyone know where this piece is supposed to go? My guess is that when this piece is in place wherever it is supposed to be it prevents the springy part from extending out too far. Any thoughts/suggestions? If this piece is broken and requires a completely new latch, I do think I see what might be another solution... In its "resting position" the latch guts inside the mechanism looks like this: https://i.imgur.com/zeJiG1al.jpg If I manually compress the latch that is sticking out to be at a better resting position (such that only the sloping part sticks out and then when the door closes it will compress and work correctly), the latch guts look like this: https://i.imgur.com/NXJNAfIl.jpg If I cannot find the proper way to fix the lock/latch, I think I could probably glue a small metal block (~1/8th inch x 1/8th inch) on the latch in that space to prevent it from sliding out too far. Does that make sense? Let me know if you have repaired such a lock and if that small piece I found floating around is something that is broken or just out of place. Thanks! Chris
SJ-Chris 08/08/22 06:50pm Tech Issues
RE: A few more questions about solar panels...

You can also test each individual panel separately two different ways.... One way is with a volt meter / amp meter. In sunlight, connecting the meter to the MC connectors of the solar panel you should be able to read the Voltage and then the amps. This way you know your panels are both good. Another way is to hook them up to your controller by themselves (one at a time). Do each of them work (according to your solar charge controller)? If your batteries are fully charged, you will not see a difference if you hook up 100w, 200w, 1000w....your battery can only accept a certain amount of amps and when fully charged that amount is quite low (usually .3 to 2 amps). Are your batteries also hooked up in your rig? If so, you can turn on a bunch of lights/etc to create a load (draw) on your batteries. This will allow more current to flow from your solar panels. Keep us posted and good luck! Chris
SJ-Chris 07/31/22 03:40pm Tech Issues
Side door latch/lock won't close without assist...

On my 2013 23' Coachman Leprechaun 210QB, the side door lock/latch has developed a problem. It is a TriMark brand lock assembly. Here is a photo: https://i.imgur.com/nVFWCyul.jpg The correct operation of "closing the door" is to simply push (or pull) it shut and then it self latches closed (but not locked). Recently, when I did that (pushed it shut) it didn't automatically latch and instead it "rejected" the attempt. Imagine if you accidentally had the deadbolt in the lock position (extended) while the door was open, and then you pushed/slammed the door shut. It would make a loud "thud" and sort of bounce back open because it cannot possible close with the deadbolt sticking out. That is sort of what it is like, however it isn't the deadbolt causing the issue, it is the springy door latch part (circled in red in the photo) that is supposed to compress and then latch when the door closes. It is as if the springy part is extended out a little too far and then when the door tries to close it catches on the flat part of the springy part and not the slanted part of the springy part (which would then force it to spring inward and allow the door to close). LOL....yes I realize "springy part" is obviously not the right name for that part. It is the part that (with the door open) you can push it in and then it will spring back once you remove the tension. It is similar to most standard door latches in your home. It's this part: https://i.imgur.com/bB2PKNel.jpg So....who here has had a similar problem? Is it possible/easy to open up the Trimark lock assembly and make some sort of adjustment? Thought I'd ask here first to see if anyone has any experience with these. Thanks! Chris
SJ-Chris 07/29/22 01:42am Tech Issues
Installed generator stolen?

I've got 3 Class C RVs and they each have an Onan 4000w generator onboard. They are accessed through a exterior compartment that doesn't have a lock on it. (Side note: Even if it did have a standard compartment lock on it, it seems like someone could simply grab the bottom edge of the compartment door and pretty easily just break the compartment lock and open the door if they really wanted to). I had to replace one of my generators recently as it seized up. Cost for a new one is ~$4000 plus installation. My question: Have you or anyone you know had their onboard generator stolen from their RV? Obviously thieves are stealing catalytic converters left and right for a few hundred bucks. Makes me wonder why generators aren't being routinely stolen. Perhaps they are much heavier and harder to steal? Perhaps they are bolted in much better and significantly harder to steal? Perhaps it is harder for thieves to resell? Just curious. -Chris
SJ-Chris 07/20/22 01:33pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: leak at connection to drain pipes and Holding tank

Please let us know the year, make, and model of your RV and I'm sure someone will be able to give you some great/specific info. I have a 2015 Thor Majestic 28a Class C RV. I had a leak recently on my black waste tank line (from the toilet to the waste tank where it connects). I also had to deal with the waste line from the bathroom sink to the black waste tank in the process. I posted a detailed description of the project with photos of every step. It shows the steps involving the sink line going into the black tank so maybe it will give you some ideas. https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/30326133/gotomsg/30326133/p/1.cfm#30326133 In the above link, scroll down to post ~#10 for the detailed description with photos. The key piece of info that would have saved me hours (and might save YOU hours) is that the job required removing the rear wheel well insert. That gave me complete access to all the pipes going to the black waste tank (....maybe YOUR RV will be the same). Step #1: Clean out your black tank as best as you can before you start! Let us know. Good luck! Chris
SJ-Chris 07/10/22 11:15pm Tech Issues
RE: Engine cover (doghouse) removal

I have a 2004 29" Gulfstream on a E450 chassis. It has the V-10 motor. I can't find the interior fuse block, lights AC, etc. It isn't next to the steering wheel next to the brake pedal under the dash. Can anyone help me locate it? There should be a fuse panel under the steering column near the emergency brake. There is also a fuse panel in the engine compartment with lots of fuses for various things. On my RV (e450 V-10) it is located on the driver side front corner (closest to the grill) under the hood. Then of course there is the fuse panel in the RV house section and that is often times located near the rear bed or under the dinette. Good luck! Chris
SJ-Chris 07/08/22 02:24pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Looking at class c questions on maintenance

Oil change specifically is typically a SIMPLE job on Class C RVs. They are high enough off the ground that you can crawl under (or put your leveling blocks/etc underneath...of course be careful anytime you go under a vehicle!). On many Class C RVs, the oil filter is also underneath and simple to get to. It will take you LESS time (and of course money) to change the oil yourself if you consider driving to the shop, waiting your turn (or dropping it off, getting a ride back and forth, etc), waiting for them to change the oil, and driving home. For anything safety related, I want a certified RV shop or mechanic to perform the task (liability reasons). Good luck! Chris Assuming you coordinate it with another trip (the OP was asking about while traveling so I assume there are moves involved), there is negligible drive time involved. Add in that you can typically just show up and get in within 5-10minutes and much easier than making an appointment at the dealer and paying an inflated rate. Never had to leave a vehicle at an oil change place and come back later. Most campgrounds won't be happy with you doing an oil change at the campsite. Here is the original post: Hello, we currently have a fiver but lately have been looking at smaller class c around the 25ft length. My question is having to do with oil changes and was wondering - for example if it was a Ford powered rv do you take it to the ford dealer for oil changes? Are they generally able to work on these types of vehicles without a problem? I don't see anything in the original post about "while traveling". Unless my trip was for 5000+ miles, I'd either change the oil before going or when I got back. -Chris Quote from OP: I know I can change it myself. I was actually wondering where people go when they are out on a trip and needed to have some service done, like an oil change for example. I know if something is rv related I would need to go to an rv shop LOL...OP posted that AFTER I posted what I posted.
SJ-Chris 07/08/22 02:18pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Tornado flush added to black waste tank...

Quick update: I've used my Tornado flush a few times now at the end of camping trips. Here's what I noticed... I have a 6" clear connector on my waste hose so I can see what is flushing through. I start by dumping the black tank. Yuck...Yes you can see all the wonderful contents zooming through the waste hose into the dumping station. Then it stops when the black tank is empty. Then, I turn on the Tornado flush on full blast (with the black waste valve still open). Immediately I can see coming out through the waste line MORE gross waste and toilet paper/etc for about 30-60 seconds. Then it seems to run fairly clear water. If I run it for a minute or two and then turn it off, and then I go and check my black tank sensor, it shows empty (instead of 1/3 or 2/3 full). Mission accomplished! One time when nobody was behind me, I gave the tank an extra flush by closing the black waste valve and turning on the Tornado flush to fill the tank halfway. Note: If you do this, you BETTER NOT get distracted and walk away as your black tank will fill up and overflow your toilet inside your RV if left too long. When I opened the black waste valve, there was a little more waste that came out but not too much. Once I close my black waste valve and I'm done, I use my Tornado flush for 20 seconds to put a little water into my black tank to keep things happy in there for the next usage. Happy flushing all! Chris
SJ-Chris 07/08/22 02:11pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Tank cleaning wand - how much water does it leave?

If you start with an empty black tank, and then used the tank wand for a couple minutes, it should only leave a couple gallons behind. Not a big deal and you can probably live with it for the start of your next trip. As mentioned, you can time how long you use it on your tank, then take it outside with a 5 gallon bucket and run it in a 5 gallon bucket for the same amount of time and you will have your answer. I used to have to use the tank wand to keep my sensors accurate (...I get annoyed when the tank is empty and it reads 1/3 or 2/3 full). I also sometime let family/friends use my RVs and I don't want them to wonder about the tank status (...or I don't want to wonder when they return the RV). I always hated getting out the tank wand plus hose, feeding it through a window and through the bedroom and to the bathroom (and then back out after it was used in the toilet/black tank). Messy and inconvenient. I solved this problem and made tank cleaning 10x easier and faster....I added a Tornado Tank Flush. Total cost was less than $50. Here is a link to the DIY project I did. Now when I dump I just spend 2 minutes at the dumping station using the flush with the black valve open and I can see tons more waste get cleared out after it was emptied once. It also keeps my sensors clean. https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/30315748.cfm Hope that helps! Chris
SJ-Chris 07/08/22 01:55pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: best way to recover a roof

Hi, The RV is from 2004. What is the best way to recover the roof. It is some sort of flexible material. Bed liner over what is there? New material? Remove old material and use bed liner? I won't be doing this myself. How bad is your roof? What issues are you having? Is it leaking, or does it just look old? Not sure if it is beyond this simple life-extending idea, but I have used Dicor Roof sealant on 3 of my RVs. It goes on like thick paint. Filled up cracking old dicor around vents/etc nicely. Total cost was about $250 and a few hours of my time. Important to clean the roof beforehand obviously, but that wasn't hard either. My roof was about 7 years old when I did it. It probably didn't need it, but I figure giving my roof extra protection/life is a good idea since water leaks is one of the biggest killers of RVs. Here's a link to the project I did: https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/30201452.cfm Any pics of your roof?
SJ-Chris 07/06/22 01:58pm Tech Issues
RE: Solar question

If you have space to store them, another good solution is to buy USED solar panels for 50-80% less than the cost of new panels. Then, buy some wiring, a fuse, and a solar controller and you have a very inexpensive portable solar setup. If it ends up growing legs and walking off (stolen), you won't be out much (especially if you can keep your charge controller somewhere safe/secure). I have purchased 250w working panels for as low as $35 each. Check your local craigslist, facebook marketplace, etc. Test the panels before you buy, but there are no moving parts and they should last a long time (20yrs+). And to answer your question, yes, you should be able to hook up separately from your existing solar. Good luck! Chris
SJ-Chris 07/06/22 01:33pm Tech Issues
RE: Looking at class c questions on maintenance

Oil change specifically is typically a SIMPLE job on Class C RVs. They are high enough off the ground that you can crawl under (or put your leveling blocks/etc underneath...of course be careful anytime you go under a vehicle!). On many Class C RVs, the oil filter is also underneath and simple to get to. It will take you LESS time (and of course money) to change the oil yourself if you consider driving to the shop, waiting your turn (or dropping it off, getting a ride back and forth, etc), waiting for them to change the oil, and driving home. For anything safety related, I want a certified RV shop or mechanic to perform the task (liability reasons). Good luck! Chris Assuming you coordinate it with another trip (the OP was asking about while traveling so I assume there are moves involved), there is negligible drive time involved. Add in that you can typically just show up and get in within 5-10minutes and much easier than making an appointment at the dealer and paying an inflated rate. Never had to leave a vehicle at an oil change place and come back later. Most campgrounds won't be happy with you doing an oil change at the campsite. Here is the original post: Hello, we currently have a fiver but lately have been looking at smaller class c around the 25ft length. My question is having to do with oil changes and was wondering - for example if it was a Ford powered rv do you take it to the ford dealer for oil changes? Are they generally able to work on these types of vehicles without a problem? I don't see anything in the original post about "while traveling". Unless my trip was for 5000+ miles, I'd either change the oil before going or when I got back. -Chris
SJ-Chris 06/29/22 09:16pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Looking at class c questions on maintenance

Oil change specifically is typically a SIMPLE job on Class C RVs. They are high enough off the ground that you can crawl under (or put your leveling blocks/etc underneath...of course be careful anytime you go under a vehicle!). On many Class C RVs, the oil filter is also underneath and simple to get to. It will take you LESS time (and of course money) to change the oil yourself if you consider driving to the shop, waiting your turn (or dropping it off, getting a ride back and forth, etc), waiting for them to change the oil, and driving home. For anything safety related, I want a certified RV shop or mechanic to perform the task (liability reasons). Good luck! Chris
SJ-Chris 06/28/22 03:44pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: black tank not venting?

It isn't clear to my why, even if the vent pipe is inserted 1/3 the way down into the black tank, why there would be pressure built up. It isn't a sealed system (because of the vent...even if the tube is submerged) so there shouldn't be pressure. Yes, the toilet might burp a bit, but not actual pressure. The liquid would rise up the vent tube as the tank fills. When the toilet is flushed the liquid would rush back down the vent tube. Causing a release of pressure through the toilet. The liquid would NOT rise UP the vent pipe beyond the liquid level (1 inch? 2 inches? 3 inches?). As more liquid is put into the tank (from the toilet), it would simply flow into the black tank. I agree with the OP that as liquid is flowing into the black waste tank, some air will release back into the toilet. -Chris
SJ-Chris 05/31/22 11:52pm Tech Issues
RE: Low budget furnace thermostat fix -- quick and dirty

Nice work MacGyver!
SJ-Chris 05/31/22 08:45pm Tech Issues
RE: black tank not venting?

It isn't clear to my why, even if the vent pipe is inserted 1/3 the way down into the black tank, why there would be pressure built up. It isn't a sealed system (because of the vent...even if the tube is submerged) so there shouldn't be pressure. Yes, the toilet might burp a bit, but not actual pressure. Question: Does the smell start happening after it goes over 2/3rds full AND you are flushing the toilet (ie. toilet line open directly to the black tank)? Or does the smell just start showing up in the bathroom and the RV in general once your tank is 2/3rd full? If it is just starting to show up in general (not while flushing) then it seems like there is some other problem. The black tank is supposed to effectively be a closed system (except for the roof vent). That means there shouldn't be any smell while the "stuff" just sits there in the tank. Your toilet itself has a valve/seal and a water barrier so the smell shouldn't be coming from there. Shouldn't matter if it is 1/3rd full, 2/3rd full, or 100% full. This may or may not be helpful.... Recently, I had a crack/leak on my black waste tank where the 3" pipe from the toilet connected to the top of the tank. That also meant "smell" could leak out anytime there was "stuff" in the black waste tank. Since that connection is somewhat exposed to the floor/underside/plumbing of the RV, I could smell it. ESPECIALLY when driving as the wind (from driving) would swirl around underneath the RV and push the smelly air up into the plumbing connections area/etc which happened to be underneath the kitchen sink/cabinets. The only solution for me was to drop the black waste tank, fix and reseal everything, and then install it back in place. Here's a link to that job in case it is helpful. https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/30326133.cfm If you go to post #10 you will see the complete job with pictures. It Also shows you what the black vent pipe looks like (for my rig) and might give you ideas. On my 2015 Thor Majestic 28a, my black vent pipe was installed in a way that there would be NO CHANCE to slide it in/out (seemed to almost be glued in place). You can test to see if there is a leak at the top connections to your black tank... The first step is to EMPTY your black tank and give it a good flushing. You don't really want to be testing for leaks with poopy water. Then, simply fill it 90% of the way with water with your flush system. Then, turn off your water pump, get a 5 gallon bucket and slowly start to pour water into your black tank through your toilet. Eventually the black waste tank will fill up (you will kind of be able to hear as it is filling to the top). Then continue a bit more and you will fill the 3" waste line that is going from your toilet to your black waste tank. Then you can even fill up to your actual toilet about 5-10% full (keeping your foot on the flush pedal). If you have no leaks, the water will just sit there and not go down at all. If you have a leak, you will notice that the water level in your toilet starts to go down and the water down in your toilet waste line will go down also. Presumably, you should see a puddle of water underneath your RV if you have a leak (...the water has to go somewhere, right?). If you have a leak in your black waste tank/plumbing, that could be what is causing your smell. Sorry you are going through this...not a fun problem. Keep us posted. It just occurred to me that you could have BOTH problems....the tank vent could be 1/3rd into the tank AND you could have a small leak in the connections to the black tank (either the vent, or the toilet, or maybe your bathroom sink). If it is a small leak, then perhaps when the tank is less than 2/3rds full MOST of the smelly air vents out the vent pipe to the roof. But when it is more than 2/3rds full, maybe the vent pipe is submerged and now the stinky air cannot go up the vent pipe and finds its way through a leaky black tank connection (and then the smell drifts up into your RV). Good luck! Chris
SJ-Chris 05/31/22 07:52pm Tech Issues
RE: Buying a Former Rental Class C. How many of us out there?

2015 Thor Majestic 28a - Black waste tank removal and repair... I just completed a fix on my Majestic 28a. Learned a lot and thought I would post the link here also in case any fellow CA Majestic owners would find it useful or be searching for it... https://www.rv.net/forum/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/30326133.cfm If you scroll down to the ~10th post there is a complete description with photos/etc Happy Camping! Chris IMPORTANT PREVENTATIVE NOTE: My RV only had 2 brackets in the front edge of the black waste tank holding it up to the underside of the RV. Each of those brackets had places for THREE screws, but they only had TWO screws in each. So, essentially it was being held up by 4 screws. I have since added a 3rd screw to each of those brackets AND added a 3rd bracket on the front edge. You should take a look at what you have on yours and you might want to add some extra screws and perhaps another bracket BEFORE you have this problem and then you can avoid it in the first place! I have another identical Majestic 28a and it also only had 2 brackets with 2 screws on each so I also added more screws and another bracket to that RV as well. I also added 2 additional screws on the rear 2 brackets (there wasn't room for a 3rd bracket). Good luck! Chris
SJ-Chris 05/16/22 05:26pm Class C Motorhomes
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