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 > Your search for posts made by 'Teleman' found 76 matches.

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  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Keeping a charge on AGM batteries

A 2000 Airstream likely has a dumb converter...doesn’t go into float charging. I would just disconnect them, remove the negative cables. AGMs can sit for 6 months without loosing enough voltage to hurt them unlike lead-acid. There's a switch inside the doorway that operates a relay that disconnects the house batteries. Wouldn't that suffice?
Teleman 02/28/21 02:17pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Keeping a charge on AGM batteries

If they are AGM then they need a correct charger. I have one vehicle that has it and it stays on the charger 24/7 if not on the road. I use a Cteck brand. My OEM lasted 9 years doing this. As stated every time you take them off they start over, just not as long as if they not been on in a while. https://smartercharger.com/ Are we talking about the same thing? Honest question. When plugging in to shore power the converter supplies the charging current. I'm not even sure yet where it is (2000 Airstream Land Yacht) and it's not something I can check right now, but is it likely to have different charging settings?
Teleman 02/28/21 12:59pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Keeping a charge on AGM batteries

As long as the charger has the ability and is set to the correct AGM profile they will be fine. Did you adjust the charger or double check it’s settings ? I bought the RV unaware it had AGM batteries. I'll take a look at the converter. Thanks.
Teleman 02/28/21 10:00am Class A Motorhomes
Keeping a charge on AGM batteries

Keeping my previous coach connected to shore power for extended periods of time required monitoring the water levels in the lead acid batteries but my new coach has AGM batteries. Am I correct in assuming it's okay to leave it connected to shore power for several months at a time between trips and the batteries will be fine?
Teleman 02/28/21 09:43am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Cost of engine replacement or rebuild

A good thing is that I haven't seen the temp climb at all even in first gear on steep hills. I haven't driven in hot weather yet though.
Teleman 02/21/21 08:56am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Cost of engine replacement or rebuild

My 8.1 Vortec had 93,383 miles when it blew. Why? The catalytic converter created so much back pressure it blew the seals out and pumped the oil out at 55mph. It was just short of $10k to have all the work done. Ouch! Was there a way to know that your CC was malfunctioning? I've never heard of this.
Teleman 02/19/21 05:04pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Cost of engine replacement or rebuild

Totally irrelevant and off-topic, but may provide some relief of the shadenfreude sort for the OP: my son in law recently blew the engine in his Porsche: a rod came through the block. His new engine is going to cost him $40,000. Be glad your RV isn't powered by Porsche. My mechanic told me he'd kill me if I bought a German car lol
Teleman 02/19/21 03:45pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Cost of engine replacement or rebuild

Good to hear. 3k oil changes for sure.
Teleman 02/18/21 07:54pm Class A Motorhomes
Cost of engine replacement or rebuild

I have a 2000 Airstream Land Yacht with a 7.4 Vortec motor with 90k miles on it. It runs perfectly and I have no reason to think it's going to need to be replaced anytime soon but should that day come what should I expect it to cost, roughly?
Teleman 02/18/21 06:52pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Furnace runs but blows cold

Remove 4 screws that hold the plastic fan housing to the furnace. The sail switch is attached to the inside of the plastic fan housing with 2 screws. The limit switch is behind the blower fan/motor. The coach is parked in the bay next to my house now with insufficient room to work on the furnace but as soon as I pull it out I will check it out. Thanks.
Teleman 02/07/21 01:48pm Tech Issues
RE: Furnace runs but blows cold

Can of air with the tube works pretty good! I got into the blower with compressed air and cleaned all the contacts but it didn't help. I watched this video which explains the procedure for taking the furnace apart to replace the motor, igniter and burner. My motor is good but I'd have to go through all of this to access the sail switch. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=oaTW0oNf6Qw From what I can tell the blue and white wires of the multi pin connector on the board go to and from the sail switch and high level thermostat. Using tap connectors and shorting those wires would get the furnace working IF either the sail switch or high level thermostat were the problem right? If so I know I have to pull the motor to get to them. If not then it could be the igniter or the board. I guess checking the igniter would be the next step. You do not have to remove the motor to check replace the sail switch. But on a 22 year old Furnace, I would replace BOTH the Sail Switch and the Hi limit switch since they can be intermittant and just messing with a sail switch may make it start working. For a few times. They are cheap so replace both. The Hi Limit can be the cause of your problem. Doug Are you sure? They are located behind the blower and motor and I don't see how I can get at them with the motor in place. What about my idea of shorting the blue and white wires going to the board to see if the sail switch or hi limit thermostat are in fact the problem? The furnace in the video I linked to is very close to identical to mine. RV Furnace Motor Squealing - Remove & Replace ... - YouTube www.youtube.com › watch › v=oaTW0oNf6Qw
Teleman 02/07/21 08:54am Tech Issues
RE: Furnace runs but blows cold

80% of the time, it's the sail switch I was afraid of that. Are you familiar with this unit and what is involved in replacing it? Unfortunately no but I have a friend that has had a lot of trouble with his furnace and when the tech came to repair it, I happened to be there. He told me about the sail switch being the issue 80% of the time. I just relayed what I was told. There are RV repair techs that have youtube channels and they have done videos on furnaces. You might try looking them up. I linked to a youtube in the comment above.
Teleman 02/06/21 10:43pm Tech Issues
RE: Furnace runs but blows cold

Can of air with the tube works pretty good! I got into the blower with compressed air and cleaned all the contacts but it didn't help. I watched this video which explains the procedure for taking the furnace apart to replace the motor, igniter and burner. My motor is good but I'd have to go through all of this to access the sail switch. RV Furnace Motor Squealing - Remove & Replace ... - YouTube www.youtube.com › watch › v=oaTW0oNf6Qw From what I can tell the blue and white wires of the multi pin connector on the board go to and from the sail switch and high level thermostat. Using tap connectors and shorting those wires would get the furnace working IF either the sail switch or high level thermostat were the problem right? If so I know I have to pull the motor to get to them. If not then it could be the igniter or the board. I guess checking the igniter would be the next step.
Teleman 02/06/21 07:15pm Tech Issues
RE: Furnace runs but blows cold

Thanks for all the info. Low battery isn't the issue as they were fully charged. I'll see if I can get compressed air to the sail switch. I did try unplugging and re plugging the contacts on the board terminals. I'll try some contact cleaner too.
Teleman 02/06/21 12:43pm Tech Issues
RE: Furnace runs but blows cold

80% of the time, it's the sail switch I was afraid of that. Are you familiar with this unit and what is involved in replacing it?
Teleman 02/05/21 11:28pm Tech Issues
RE: Furnace runs but blows cold

Propane full? Do you have a propane leak detector that is past its expiration date? All the other appliances work...stove, fridge, hot water heater. I don't think it's a propane issue as it just stopped igniting. I don't hear the igniter either.
Teleman 02/05/21 11:27pm Tech Issues
Furnace runs but blows cold

Part way through our two week trip our furnace stopped working. It's an Atwood Hydro Flame 8500-IV, in a 2000 Airstream Land Yacht. Does anyone have experience with these furnaces and if so can you suggest how I might proceed to troubleshoot this problem? It would be great if just replacing the board solved the problem as its readily accessible. I think the igniter and sail switch might be difficult to access. Any helpful info would be greatly appreciated.
Teleman 02/05/21 07:59pm Tech Issues
RE: Looking for inverter installation in SF Bay Area

Inverters don't like heated and messy engine compartments. Maybe you have enough protected space and ventilation. 3000 watts really should have 6+ batteries to drive the thing. Might get by with 4 but I can't recommend just 2. Romex is generally fine and commonly used in RVs. Although not designed to be run in conduit so maybe just use the wire loom to protect in critical spots that might rub. Can also get marine triplex stranded wire if you want something more flexible. Custom made battery cables are available too if you are considering DIY. https://www.genuinedealz.com/products/custom-battery-cable-marine-grade-by-the-foot It's a class A so "under the hood" is isolated from the engine and very well ventilated. I don't need that much power so I'm returning it in exchange for a 2000 watt unit. Mostly it's for our coffee maker and small vacuum cleaner. TVs are 12v.
Teleman 01/15/21 09:55pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Looking for inverter installation in SF Bay Area

Another question...my house batteries are under the hood and I plan to mount the inverter there in close proximity. Would Romex wire housed in automotive split wire looming be a good choice to run from the inverter output for 30' back to the trunk where the shore power cord (or transfer switch) is located?
Teleman 01/15/21 07:43pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Looking for inverter installation in SF Bay Area

Sounds like you know what you want. Plugging shore into it is easy, that way everything works. Mine is hard-wired directly to the panel, which accomplishes the same thing. Do you have a transfer switch?
Teleman 01/15/21 07:12pm Class A Motorhomes
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