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RE: Water tank wire mystery

One wire goes to the switch then the other side of the switch goes to +12 vdc. I believe the other wire is for the light on the switch when the propane does not fire up the red light comes on. Don't know which one is which. I dont either, that is the whole point.
ajriding 10/06/20 05:47pm Tech Issues
RE: class c in the smoky mountain national park

no issues driving a big thing there. Even the Dragon is doable by RV, but people will hate you if you drive the Dragon cause u will go so slow and slow everyone down. Pull out and let people pass
ajriding 10/06/20 05:35pm General RVing Issues
RE: Winterizing Ice Maker

likely wont matter with a water line that small. My home fridge water line freezes all the time, as do all the ones similar to mine.
ajriding 10/06/20 05:32pm General RVing Issues
Water tank wire mystery

Need help with wich wire is what. I pulled this out of an RV. Now I do not know which wire is positive. I know the green is neg bc it is grounded to the tank metal. There are two other colored wires, brown and blue. I have the on/off switch. The colors do not match. I had to cut the wires to remove both, and I assume somewhere in the middle, unseen, the wires changed colors. I am selling this and have propane and DC to connect so I can demonstrate it, but I dont want to reverse the DC voltage. Or will it even hurt anything? I do not know what the third wire is, likely feedback to the switch that it is on. https://photouploads.com/images/EcIX.jpg width=900 https://photouploads.com/images/EcIL.jpg The boiler switch is the upper left one, with a little circuit board behind it. White wire is grounded right there at the switch area (not the tank), then green and red wire come out. Red wire goes to the wirenut and to a bigger red wire. Green to green. But there is no red wire on the tank, and the green wire at the tank is grounded to the tank metal. so blue and brown must connect to the switch. But which is which? https://photouploads.com/images/EcIU.md.jpg https://photouploads.com/images/EcI3.jpg
ajriding 10/06/20 05:23pm Tech Issues
RE: Question on charging batteries with Gen

Almost nobody will boondock with residential electric appliances.We camp in the dirt 100% of the time. My friends with good jobs are showing up with new trailers that run residential fridges. Trailer comes with an inverter to power it. They are toyhaulers so its expected to not have shore power. LOL, they will soon find out how expensive batteries are
ajriding 10/06/20 05:15pm Tech Issues
RE: AV gas for the generator

older airplanes were built for leaded gas. Newer ones do not use leaded gas. if you can still get leaded gas it will be ONLY for those airplanes that HAVE to burn it. There are substitutes now, and I can't remember the details. The AV gas is color coded. I doubt u can get leaded gas for your generator, only the modern blends.
ajriding 10/06/20 05:14pm Tech Issues
RE: Accidentally winterized the water heater

The by-pass valves are to keep antifreeze out of the tank so you do not need to flush it out come spring, just the lines. Water freezing in the bottom of the rounded tank will not crack anything. As it becomes ice and expands it just expands up the roundness of the tank and folds back in. No risk, so there is no need to winterize the tank, just the pipes. The pink antifreeze is meant to be used in the water system and to be later flushed out with clean water, tank and pipes.
ajriding 10/06/20 05:10pm Tech Issues
RE: Aluminum or fiberglass trailer

not to chase down the change of subject... but years ago I read that aluminum frame trailers were warrantied for 3 years, and wood for 5 years. Why? Wood can bend and sway and is easy to repair. Aluminum will eventually crack if it is flexed enough times, and is not cheap and is not easy to repair. The 3 and 5 years is specific to one brand, so no need to challenge that, lol. As long as the water is kept out then wood is fine, and keeping water out is the #1 priority of any RV owner. Water damage is almost always why delam happens. Water damage is almost always from degraded sealant at the seams. You have to do maintenance on the caulked seams. We cannot over-stress this enough. Aluminum frames are great conductors of heat. The sun hits the wall, the aluminum conducts the heat to the interior wall and heats up the inside. Wood does not do this. Someone mentioned "gel-coat" No, that is boat construction like Bigfoot campers or the Burrito-style campers. That is fiberglass, but is not fiberglass sheets. Those are two different things. I have not seen issues on a fibegalss panel as the gel coat boat campers have. I would much rather have a boat-like build than a frame and panel build though. I have flipped a bunch of Rvs, and spend time in junk yards scaviging things off old campers. I have kicked, hammered and torn up my share of wood build campers. It is amazing how strong the wood is. They build it with cheap furring strips and use cheap brad nails, no glue, to hold it together and I have to muscle it a lot to break it apart. Wood is plenty strong until it gets wet.
ajriding 10/06/20 11:13am Travel Trailers
RE: Shurflow pump problem UPDATE

it does take longer to suck air than to suck water into the pump. Turn on a faucet and wait. That you let it run dry means you might have gotten some debris in the pump. I have had this. Debris can cause the pump "flaps" to not be able to close fully and this means it is losing ability to pump / loss of pressure or loss of suction in this case. If all else fails, take the head off the pump. The head is the dome shape black part that the pipes attach to. Take it all apart, it is quite simple. You will see 3 circle shapes in a rubber flap like thing. that is where the debris will be. Clean it all. Clean everything you can get to. reassemble. then prime.
ajriding 10/06/20 11:05am Tech Issues
RE: Accidentally winterized the water heater

This is what the pink antifreeze is made for. This is like asking - I put gas in my gas tank, should I leave it in? You just flush the tank out in the spring according the the antifreeze directions. How is this a question even?
ajriding 10/06/20 11:01am Tech Issues
RE: AV gas for the generator

I run 100% gas in all my small engines. The gen is made to run on that ethanol blend, but ethanol still breaks down and makes a mess, so I try to not do it and if I do I run it completly out then add 100% back in for even short storage. You can get quality gas, racing fuel, at a motorcycle shop. They sell it in steel buckets, and in a steel container the gas will store for a lot longer than a plastic container. It is high octane, and easier to get that AV fuel as its just on the shelf at a motorcycle shop. I dont bother. I dont need that extra boost as I am not racing... lol
ajriding 10/06/20 10:57am Tech Issues
RE: Water lines

Why? The RV pipes can take 150 psi of water easily. Water does not compress, air does! 45 psi of air at the nozzle will not be 45 psi of air pressure once in the water pipe system, it will drop way lower because the pipes are way bigger than the air hose. If the water heater tank is empty then psi will drop way way down (maybe 5psi) and as long as there is no blockage on the downstream side of the pipe then air pressure will not build up much at all. I would imagine you could blow in 300psi and nothing would happen, the drop in psi from 300 at the air nozzle to what it would be in the bigger longer water pipes would be enough of a drop to not be an issue. Again, air will compress, unlike water that has nowhere to go, air will compress in itself so need nowhere to go. Very likely your air compressor cannot give enough psi to do any damage to anything in your RV. I do not recommend using a 100 gallon commercial 300 psi air compressor to blow out your air lines, but if you do then just do short burst of air, not a long steady flow of high psi air just to be safe, because i have not done testing with air in pipes, but I do know those same water pipes are used for these 300psi air compressors. I guess the bigger concern is your faucets or the stop-valve on your water pump.
ajriding 10/06/20 10:50am Travel Trailers
RE: Question on charging batteries with Gen

pianotuna... I dont have any parasite loads. Things are either on or off, and when off they are off- not on standby. They get turned off with a switch, so there is no power even available. So, you are right, most RVs probably need power to just sit, But 100 watts is enough if steps are taken to make RV a true boondocker. Good point, that RVs will suck up power for no reason. An audit of what is draining batts is a good thing to do if one plans to do some extended boondocking.
ajriding 10/06/20 10:41am Tech Issues
RE: Question on charging batteries with Gen

time to roll, 100 is plenty for a propane fridge. Almost nobody will boondock with residential electric appliances. You could probably use a few Duracell C or D batteries to run a propane fridge. Propane packs more power than a battery ever will. Gasoline packs a lot of power, but is not efficient way to run a propane fridge on 120v. The propane is just a little candle flame, and that is all that is needed to have a fridge.
ajriding 10/05/20 07:06pm Tech Issues
RE: Water left in Suburban water heater - UPDATE!

You might can replace just the tank. My first one had an anode rod, so I assume it was a steel tank. I never had issues. It is not raw steel, but going to be treated to not rust I would imagine. I only drained it for winter, otherwise I left it full. I think the anode only needs to be replaced when it is too dissolved. As long as it is intact then it should work, putting a new one won't do anything different as the rod is the same material all the way through. It would be like tossing your candy bar half way through and getting a new candy bar. Its the same chocolate. Sometimes even stainless steel or galvanized steel will rust. You just got something that had a defect likely. You will not be owed anything, so I woudn't go trying to get a free replacement. Look for a used tank also, that is super cheap. I have one but doubt you are local. Rust is not going to hurt you, but you dont want the particles in your water system. Pipes in municipal systems all have rust. If water flows enough then the rust will be so diluted that you never see it. Or sometimes you see it in the toilet or sink bowl as rust stains. You can't really drain the tank 100% unless you tip is sideways, so there will always be water in the bottom of the tank, which means the tank will be a very high humidity environment, so even the parts not under water will still be rusting. Just leave it full until u winterize it. By leaving it full the anode can perform its function. Eventually the tank will leak just like house tanks do. Generally your situation is rare, tanks just don't rust that often. Best to get it replaced sooner than later. You will want an aluminum tank this time...
ajriding 10/05/20 10:38am General RVing Issues
RE: dometic furnace problem

Old biscuit good. I had a solenoid valve go bad in mine. It was doing similar while it was in the process of going bad. The burner was not getting enough propane, there would be a little propane at first, enough to light a flame, but then would run out of propane bc there was not enough pressure going to the burner, so it would shut off, then I guess a little pressure did build up in the system by the time it lit again and it could burn for a second but just go out when starved for propane.(Im not sure if this was what was really going on but was just my theory). I replaced the valve. I guess if the pressure feeding the furnaces is too low this could happen too. Unlikely as I am assuming all your other propane things work just fine? How old is all this? Regulators do go bad after a while. 15 years is a long time for a regulator.
ajriding 10/05/20 10:21am Travel Trailers
RE: Prep TC roof for Dicor redo

Anything will work. Lap sealant is very sticky and will even stick to the dirty roof if you don't clean it so well. Do clean it, even if only scrubbing with a dry rag. The leaks will come from when the dicor cracks, not so much from the sealant coming un-stuck. I use rubbing alcohol and get the visible dirt clean and get most of the old sealant off, but I dont bother going crazy trying to perform surgery, I do use the self-leveling on walls, it will run some, so you cannot put big beads on, but when it runs it means it is flowing into areas that the non-leveling might not get into.
ajriding 10/05/20 10:14am Tech Issues
RE: Question on charging batteries with Gen

Wow. What a difference a couple 100w panels makes. None of this will ever be an issue for those of us with even the simplest of solar systems. I just ordered a friend solar panels (200 watts total) and MPPT controller for $178 shipped. He has batts and only needs to wire it all up. Done! For the next 15-20 years he will have batts being charged and maintained. so, 178 divided by 20 = less than $9 per year... In 15-20 years one gallon of gas could be more than that. Generator is only for running the AC now.
ajriding 10/05/20 10:09am Tech Issues
RE: Suggestions for sagging roof

I could still see my pics when I was not logged in to anything. hmm... If it is just always sitting then maybe you can get a 2x4 or something and push the roof up from the inside to take the sag out. It all depends on what is inside. If you do this then you will need a board, piece of plywood about 1 square foot, to more evenly distribute the 2x4 pressure over the ceiling or else you just punch a hole in the roof. Likely you have some water damage, but not necessarily. Things sag over time. You can pull the AC ceiling piece off from the inside without having to move the AC unit. Then you might be able to look at the roof structure at the 14.5 inch square roof opening. Look for rot or wetness or mold or black mold. If there is water in the roof, and you ignore it you can get by a few years. The wet, even if you stop the problem at the source, will continue to rot unless you can dry it out somehow. If you dry it completely and stop the leak then you are fine (as you said it stays parked). Rotten wood when dry is just a step away from saw dust, and it has very little structural integrity, but will not do damage in and of itself. Support the roof with an interior something (2x4 or whatever) and you that fix might outlive the camper
ajriding 10/04/20 12:58pm Travel Trailers
RE: Suggestions for sagging roof

Repair all depends on your skills and available time. Anything can be worth doing... or not. Only you can answer that. Some water-damage projects will be very involved and take a lot of work, some might be easier. To kep water from pooling just crank your tongue jack up so the camper is slanted and the water will just run off. You might still get pooling where the AC dams up water, but should not be as much. I had a very damaged roof on a trailer. I had to pull entire portion of ceiling out. Rusted steel frame had to be reinforced, new ceiling panels put in... Under the AC unit I put a 3/4 inch board all the way across the ceiling, and this was un-necessarily supported by a board down the wall. This board is able to hold up a lot of weight and I could safely walk on the roof there with no risk, and the roof was very solid there. I ended up painting it to match, but these pics are better for illustration. I have a cargo camper that I put a roof AC on and was able to just weld in new 1 inch square tubing to have more supports under the AC unit. However, this was on an undamaged trailer with no rust and no water damage. It also is very stable and can support more than just the AC unit. Here is pics of trailer damage, I think pics speak for themselves. This is just to give you ideas... https://photouploads.com/images/EcBE.jpg width=550 See the brown board behind the AC unit on ceiling. https://photouploads.com/images/EcB5.jpg See brown board running across and sits on top of the brown board running up the wall. I used this camper for a year with no issues, then sold it.
ajriding 10/04/20 10:27am Travel Trailers
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