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 > Your search for posts made by 'bobndot' found 336 matches.

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RE: Class C steering stabilizer

It drove nice but a semi would push it every now and then Regarding passing trucks . You might want to research rear track bars. Experiment with tire PSI too. After asking about passing trucks, I was advised by the supplier that a rear track bar would stabilize side to side movement of the rear axle, reducing the dancing that we feel from turbulence.
bobndot 07/13/19 03:17am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Class C steering stabilizer

Research E450 caster alignment before investing in steering stabilizers. x2. When I called the company researching to buy one and explained my class c symptoms, I was told the steering stabilizer had a lot less bang for the buck than the alignment described above. I operated medium duty ambulances all my working life on highways at 80 mph and never had to add any of this aftermarket stuff. A correct alignment was always most helpful.
bobndot 07/12/19 03:06pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: 1976 Dodge Sportsman Motorhome

If it was for a battery , you would have cables going into it. It could be a box for anything that a previous owner added to it. Have you seen "Breaking Bad" ? Remove it to investigate what it is.
bobndot 07/12/19 02:53pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: slow drain of freshwater tank

Sometimes when they cut out a hole for something they don't remove the plastic part that they cut. They let it drop into the tank and that will possibly block the drain. I had access to the top of tank which was under a bed. I cut a large 8" hole in the top of the tank to allow me to reach inside. I removed the cut out plastic parts and cleaned the tank by hand. I sealed the 8" hole using a marine deck plate. In the future, all I have to do is unscrew the deck plate and reach inside to clean.
bobndot 07/10/19 07:50pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Location & Changing fuel filter Ford E 450 V10

there is more info within this thread . a link by j-d within this thread.
bobndot 07/10/19 10:12am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Jayco slide out seal replacement

I have never done that but I would think you have to identify the type of seal and identify the mfg. of the slide. Put the slide out about 1/2 way and look at it. Like a two sided bulb seal with a squeegee . It installs over the framework. or a double bulb seal, with a bulb inside and one outside, those I think glue on . 2 places to start looking :
bobndot 07/06/19 10:06am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Decisions

Personally, I would rather buy a Chev/Ford chassis due to the broader network of dealers. The Ford E450 will offer you a GVWR of 14,500# and Chevy just a tad less but the Chev will offer a little better ride and little more foot room for the passenger. I had to spend some money to upgrade the ride of my Ford where I might have been able to save that if I had bought a Chevy. But, I wanted the floorplan, so I bought what was avl. at the time. I'm not sure about M.Benz Sprinter chassis. Having the cars in the family , I have learned to lease them so I don't have the expense to repair them. Don't Sprinters have to go to a Sprinter or Freightliner dealership who have the necessary software to clear codes etc. Reading the forums, certain parts of the country can be spread a little thin for Sprinter service. I have heard of owners being stuck hundreds of miles from a dealership. Don't know how true or not . Just something to look into, maybe things have improved over the last year or so. Regarding the floorplans: How do they run the lines when you have a kitchen built into a slide ? I would be concerned about what plumbing or gas lines move or what has to flex in order to deploy and retract the slide. Try to keep things as simple as possible, to limit potential problems that will mean down time for you. I would only buy a slide floorplan that can be used 100% when retracted. You might have live that way until you can get an appointment for a slide repair. Make sure your queen bed is really a queen bed 60x80, if that's important to you. Unlike 5th wheels, some "C" floorplans can be a little sneaky if your not paying attention to bed size.
bobndot 07/05/19 03:48pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Recommended Tow Set-Ups (Brands) for the Toad

You need to find which company makes a baseplate for your vehicle then match the tow bar to it. Towing procedures are vehicle specific.
bobndot 07/03/19 08:44am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Recommended Tow Set-Ups (Brands) for the Toad

Chevy Sonic except the RS model can be flat towed with the automatic. @ 2700-2800# I have the 5-dr hatchback which offers a lot of storage or seating for 4 if needed . If you use the ignition in the "ON" position to release the steering wheel it will NOT record towed mileage. If you click one more click the "RUN" position then it will record mileage. You have that option. Tow bar : Blue Ox Alpha 6k with baseplate. Brakes: Brake Buddy II, sits on the floor , attaches to the pedal. Works well and the $1200 cost can be transferred to any vehicle down the road. Lights: hardwired a 7 way plug under the hood to accept a separate charge from rv to car. Also ran separate wires thru it to the rear taillight housing where new holes where drilled to accept 1157 bulbs for brake/tail/running lights. That way I avoided cutting into the cars electrical system. When I run at night I turn on the cars running lights to offer more amber illumination. my DW says it tows real smooth allowing her to do her needlepoint in peace n quiet. :E:B
bobndot 07/02/19 02:32pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: battery

That's the resting voltage with zero draw.
bobndot 06/30/19 09:26am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Satellite TV SET UP

Im not sure about wireless things in general. For my Dish Tailgater , I use a flat cable thru my kitchen window . You can still close the screen/window and it performs perfectly. Find it Amazon $9.99 , its the gold and brown cable. " Ghost Wire Flat RG6 Coax Jumper Cable Extreme Slim Flat Window Cable,1ft"
bobndot 06/28/19 07:15am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Dewinterizing issue

I took a look under the Moho. My levers etc are under my mattress in corner of Moho It drains/leaks when I turn the water pump on and it is coming out underneath. I am unable to attach the pic but it is two tubes/hoses directly under my bed area that drains the water tank when I put the pump on. I realize it is a valve or plug but I just can’t find it or figure it out. There might be a petcock (valve) that you can turn on/off next to the water pump. The ends of the tubes: If one has an open end and one has a capped end that can unscrewed, then the open end tube should have a valve somewhere above that tube. If your water pump is near that location, that would my guess for its location. You would just to remove the cap off the capped tube to drain that one. That's usually the hot water drain. The other open ended tube is the cold line and it can sometimes also be the low point drain for your freshwater tank. If your system is designed that way , that line will take longer to drain than the capped line because of the volume of water being drained out of your water tank.
bobndot 06/24/19 08:15pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Installed a new damper

Reiterating that the replacement Bilstein HD shocks I installed last year 2018 have been awesome. Yes, I like my front Bils upgrade as well. Just completed two 1000 mi roads trips and my rig was a pleasure to drive.
bobndot 06/24/19 02:12pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Quality Class C 24’ for towing boat

60” wide bed, secondary sleeping area. Not a big fan of the Sprinters/ Mercedes platforms. 24 ft bumper to bumper , 2350LE Sunseeker , F450, full QB 60x80 in the rear corner and a full QB 60x90 in the cabover, dry bath and large water tanks. The U-shaped dinette can sit 4. If you rotate the pedestal table if gives you more room. The freshwater tank is under the QB with its weight supported by the floor allowing full water to be carried. This model has a full spare tire and a full large pass-thru storage area. 7500# tow rating plus you will roll down the road very much under the 14,500 GVWR . I roll at 12,500 - 12,700 and I tow 3000# cargo trailer. I hardly feel the trailer back there. At 58 mph I get 9.0-9.5 mpg. at 65 mph, I get 8.0-8.5 mpg. My 2018 Sunseeker has a limited slip rear 4.56, which is nice to haul a boat up a ramp. I have towed boats with it.
bobndot 06/24/19 08:03am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Installed a new damper

What brand did you install ?
bobndot 06/23/19 09:18am Class C Motorhomes
RE: House batteries

Make sure you have a 3 stage converter with some kind of charge wizard to monitor the charge rate. Look into a PD-4000 or PD-9000 series, they each worked flawlessly for me.
bobndot 06/20/19 06:52pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Minnie Winnie 22R vs Jayco Redhawk 22J

Jride, from what I read while researching all this last year is more hype than anything else. I was under the impression that all driveshafts were balanced. Many owners of Jride have to install aftermarket items just like any other brand. Regarding your floorplan slide choice, I do not like a bedroom slide that extends out the side because we sleep in a lot of rest areas with limited space. In order to use the bed, you need to deploy the driver side slide into a possible lane of traffic. That's where most of us rest our heads and that worries me in a rest area with vehicles whizzing past me with distracted drivers. None are built like tanks, all brands have issues . I really do not think there is enough differences between them to make a difference, good or bad. I would not spend thousands on something because it appeared nice or looked more polished . I would buy the floorplan I wanted from a good dealer that remembered my name at least. I also went with a 24ft unit for the same reasons as you. My choice was the non-slide 2018, 2350LE Sunseeker on a E450 . If that interests you , I will be glad to offer you more detailed info why I passed up the J and W's. It extended my season . Its the best heated rv I have ever owned because all the tanks, water lines, pump and valves are in heated areas like cabinets and sub floor with 2" of solid foam. Non of the water lines are run in outside walls and it had a full size pillowtop queen 60x80 not a 54x whatever .
bobndot 06/20/19 06:44pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Towing Minivan with car dolly

I am cringing as I am writing this for fear of opening a can of worms, but state laws on braking related to towing is pretty specific to trailers, not cars. State laws will vary slightly . Not 100% sure but I think most of the towing/braking laws use the word 'vehicle' not so much 'trailer'. Trailers are vehicles and vehicles with motors/engines are considered motor vehicles. Therefore, it might be worded as such. If it states "a vehicle over 3000# must have an individual braking system while being towed behind an RV" ………...then that would include a car or trailer.
bobndot 06/14/19 09:04am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Replace 12-volt Costar CO Alarm

Yup, I wanted to install a hard-wired 12 volt "RV-type" CO alarm but battery powered ones are a lot cheaper. I get the impression that there was something special about CO alarms designed for RV use(?) The 'something special' is that they use 12v battery power to the tune of up to an amp per hour. Its also RVIA code to have them hard-wired AFAIK. I installed a toggle on mine and flip it on/off as needed. I also have a battery type that I use when boondocking for multiple days, to save my battery power. The only 12v draw I have is my fridge running on gas.
bobndot 06/14/19 08:48am Class C Motorhomes
RE: 30 & 50 amp

At this point you now know that you use 15/30/50amp service in your rv. Try your best to protect your rvs electrical system by researching surge protectors and Autoformers. Test the CG's circuits before you plug into them. Some older or state campground electric pedestals use 15/20amp GFI outlets and they don't change them often enough. They trip like crazy, they become beat up by weather and use. The GFI's trip not necessarily the breaker on the pedestal.
bobndot 06/11/19 05:08pm Class C Motorhomes
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