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 > Your search for posts made by 'burningman' found 49 matches.

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RE: Help for Unreliable combo brake turn signal light on trailer

Most lights set in a rubber gasket are simply held in by that gasket. You just pry it out.
burningman 09/01/21 06:52am Tech Issues
RE: It's been fun

the blown out cracked into 5 pieces escape hatch currently unable to locate parts so going to put a couple layers fiberglass over it.. Been there done exactly that. It works great, ends up stronger and more durable than a new plastic hatch cover.
burningman 08/30/21 11:32am Truck Campers
RE: 30 amp plug assistance needed

Isn’t it easier and cheaper and better to just replace the bad breaker?!!
burningman 08/28/21 04:45pm Tech Issues
RE: Anyone with 12v Air Conditioning Experience?

It’s similar with campers. They come with seemingly oversized units for a reason. Don't know about oversized. My 12' Lace had 13.5 k BTU unit and when we camp in 120's the AC running all the time was just on the edge of keeping us in comfort. We were good in the center, but close to the walls you felt the heat. Opening any cabinet was like opening working oven. We had afternoon shade, so with night cooling down to 105F made the cabover good enough for sleeping. Yep, that’s exactly what I’m sayin’! If you go by a residential BTU needed for how many cubic feet chart, it seems like campers have oversized ACs, but… they don’t! The reason is what you described.
burningman 08/28/21 04:38pm Truck Campers
RE: Anyone with 12v Air Conditioning Experience?

I’ve tried using a 5000 BTU “window shaker” in desert heat in an 11.5 footer, it was totally inadequate. Cars have low square footage but their AC systems are extremely powerful, usually somewhere around 30,000 - 40,000 BTU. That’s because vehicles have less insulation, and people want them to cool off quickly when super hot. It’s similar with campers. They come with seemingly oversized units for a reason.
burningman 08/27/21 10:56pm Truck Campers
RE: 96 F-250 diesel, campers under 2300?

I have a 1996 Dodge 2500 6B Cummins, 2wd, with a manual transmission. I bought this truck new and have performed all minor and major service myself. It’s it great shape to this day. However, a 3/4 ton truck has limitations. My GVWR is 8800 lbs with the front axle at 4400 lbs and the rear axle at 6084 lbs. My truck weighs 6453 lbs full of fuel with me in it on the landfill scale. Wife says I can’t weigh with her in it! I bought a brand new Northstar 8.5 Adventurer in 2012 very nicely optioned. On the same landfill scale the truck/camper combination weighs 8789 lbs. This weight includes two full 20 lb propane bottles, full cassette flush tank, two group 27 Lifeline batteries, tie downs, etc. However, my 20 gallon water tank, grey water tank, black tank for the cassette, and hot water tank were completely empty. And, I had no supplies or food on board. My point is I’m barely below my GVWR but that works for me because I travel very light. Your truck has a Dana 80 rear end. It’s the same one the one ton duallies used (except it’s 2” narrower) and it’s the same one that Ford was putting under the F450 at the time. It’s rated at 11,000 pounds. Your limit is your tires, not the truck. Put heavier duty wheels and tires on it and it’s physically the same hardware as one that had a higher number on the door sticker. And as mentioned earlier, factory gvwr stickers are not legal max numbers. If you are a worried about that take the sticker off. There’s a huge misconception around here that 2500 and 3500 trucks are way more different than they really are, and that those payload sticker numbers are engineering limits on al the components. They aren’t, the most glaring example is the late model F350 and F450. Same GVWR. The F450 actually has a LOWER payload “rating”. Some lost sounds even buy F350s rather than F450s, just because they think they’re doing the right thing to be safer with a heavy camper.
burningman 08/26/21 10:42am Truck Campers
RE: Center of gravity

You really need either a long bed truck or a short bed camper. There’s gonna be no right answer with the combo you’re describing. The camper center of gravity is still going to be pretty far behind the rear axle, like it is now. If you weigh your axles I’ll bet you’ll be alarmed at how much each rear tire is carrying. Probably too much.
burningman 08/26/21 10:21am Truck Campers
RE: Tag axle for truck camper rigs

Note that tandem axles are placed right next to each other, and the tire sizes are equivalent. These are widely separated from the rear axle and so small there's little flex in the rubber to allow the side movement. You can see how tire flex helps here. No they aren’t. Big truck tandem spacing is about 5 or 6 feet, and trailers often have over 10 foot tandem axle spacing, to take advantage of bridge law formulas. A lot of tire scrubbing happens. It’s just cheaper and lighter and simpler than making them all articulate.
burningman 08/21/21 01:45pm Truck Campers
RE: Stable Camper anti-rocking system

A couple 4’ 4x4s and a set of jack stands will make a camper way more solid and secure than these jack braces ever can, for way less money and no waiting.
burningman 08/21/21 01:10pm Truck Campers
RE: Remove/replace onboard generator

Oh yeah, it’s too hard to go outside and pull the starter cord.. I wouldn’t ever want to go outside when I’m in the camper. I mean, who would ever want to go outside? It’s definitely a deal breaker to have to go outside to start the genny.
burningman 07/21/21 10:55pm Truck Campers
RE: Custom truck camper tie down mounts?

All it takes is a little fabrication skill. You could build L-shaped brackets from square stock that attach inside the bed if you want, that reach over the sides and grab the factory camper attachment points. Bed floor strength isn’t an issue, you can add mounts below like they do on fifth wheel hitch mounts. I mean, how do you guys think those attach to bed floors? You can also just build your brackets so they attach at the same points as the bed does. But really it’s a lot easier to just use conventional tie-downs. I didn’t like any that are available so I built my own, but the usual Tork-Lifts look pretty stout. Then it’s super easy to access the turnbuckles to set the tension. There are good reasons it’s usually done the way it’s done.
burningman 07/21/21 10:29pm Truck Campers
RE: Airbags.

The weight listed on the tag for your camper is not how much it weighs. You can add roughly 1000 pounds to the “dry weight” to estimate the real-world weight, loaded up to go. Better yet actually scale it… but that listed weight is pure fantasy.
burningman 07/21/21 10:20pm Truck Campers
RE: Onboard Air Systems (Updated w/ Pics)

A paralleled pair of Honda EU2000s won’t start my pancake compressor when the tank is above around 50 psi, you have to dump the air to get it to even start. What’s wrong with your Hondas? You surely aren’t saying one small pancake compressor draws more power than a AC. That’s exactly what I’m saying. And that’s a perfect condition set of Hondas running at full throttle with Eco setting Off. My roof air will run on just one of them. Maybe my pancake compressor isn’t the lightest model they make, but it’s nothing extraordinary. It’ll start when the tank doesn’t have much pressure in it and it’ll keep running, but if it’s got 80 or 90 psi in the tank already when the compressor kicks on, the Hondas won’t start it.
burningman 07/14/21 01:42pm Truck Campers
RE: Onboard Air Systems (Updated w/ Pics)

Yeah right, run a compressor from your inverter. A paralleled pair of Honda EU2000s won’t start my pancake compressor when the tank is above around 50 psi, you have to dump the air to get it to even start. Sure it’s possible but I doubt anyone really has a battery and inverter setup that will handle an air compressor, and run it long enough to air up a set of truck tires.
burningman 07/14/21 06:59am Truck Campers
RE: Onboard Air Systems (Updated w/ Pics)

On my last truck I used one of the old Ford piston style air conditioning compressors, belt driven off the engine of course. That thing made air like mad. And it cost me nothing but some time setting it up and some fittings and such.
burningman 07/13/21 01:38pm Truck Campers
RE: Parallel 2 2200s and a 1000

I’ve paralleled EU1000, 2000 and 3000 sets in various combinations. You’d think the smallest one would just overload, but it doesn’t.
burningman 07/13/21 07:35am Tech Issues
RE: 2 way radio in RV????

Well try GMRS to do that… ain’t really gonna work either. CB is probably still the best bet, but it’s nowhere near as popular or used by truckers as much as it once was.
burningman 07/12/21 10:42pm Tech Issues
RE: 2 way radio in RV????

I don’t know that any real number of people are switching to GMRS. You probably have a better chance at reaching someone on Facebook or Instagram with your cell phone than on any radio.
burningman 07/12/21 06:34am Tech Issues
RE: 2 way radio in RV????

19 was traditionally the east-west highway channel. 17 was the north-south channel. 3 is the dump truck and similar vocational truck channel. 6 is the skip-shooter channel. Most big-trucks don’t even use CB anymore. Dump trucks use it mostly for talking to the loader and scale house when they’re at a yard.
burningman 07/11/21 01:48pm Tech Issues
RE: Finally made it to the Cat scales

Random tangent about holding tanks; My first few campers were a ‘67 Security 8’ then a ‘69 Security 10’. The sinks had their drains connected to a hose that just dumped straight overboard, there were no waste tanks. That’s how they were into the early ‘70s. The first one I had with holding tanks rather than dumping right overboard was a 1976 Western Wilderness. The ‘69 10’ had a bathroom with a “recirculating” toilet, fairly common at the time. When you flushed it, it just swirled everything around but it didn’t go anywhere. I had a 1972 Caveman 11’ that had a toilet that slid out of a closet up forward… it was literally just a stainless steel can with a toilet seat on top of it.
burningman 07/11/21 01:32pm Truck Campers
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