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 > Your search for posts made by 'craz z' found 12 matches.

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RE: Allison Transmission leak

Another hint as I thought mine was leaking and went through the entire process of changing everything. Turned out there was no leak on the pan. Check closely at the shift shaft those seals are very common leak points and go out all the time especially when sitting for awhile as the fluid slowly raises up to that seal and migrates all over giving an illusion of leaky bolts and pan gasket. Allison is so proud of the gasket they claim they are infinitely reusable and after changing mine I see why. This is on a 1000mh
craz z 08/28/21 04:01pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Dry as a bone,…again

Here is a thought. So you fill up the tank and drive ever notice wet spots where the overflow is? I had a tank that would ALWAYS lose 1/3 from sloshing around from driving. get to your spot and your automatically 1/3 down. Try checking your gauge at certain intervals and especially from the time you fill to the time you get to your spot. if its down you have your answer. several other things can contribute keep your pump off unless using if you hear it run up every once in a while. You have a leak or drain on the system. The solution I came up with was a pen cap and a one way valve like what is found on a dirtbike gas cap. Air can come in but no water can escape. When filling water you simply remove the cap. THIS COMPLETELY stopped the 1/3 drain from the overflow as they are nearly level and the sloshing will let it run out the overflow losing not just a little but 1/3 before you start using water. I've moved on to a new to me rv that has the same problem as i think ALL of them do this. The overflow says your full when water pours out but it doesn't magically stop coming out when your going up hills and sloshing around Filling slow is not necessary once it shoots water out the overflow you know its full but only temporary until you come up with a solution to stop the over flow from siphoning off 1/3 of your tank. a 30 gallon tank should EASILY last a weekend and longer being somewhat conservative a single person can be wasteful with water and a shower and still go 3-4 days Overflow draining your tank is the answer you can't see it happening but it is when your driving. air needs to push out filling with water and air needs to come in using the tank nothing is stopping the water from running out the overflow tube or better yet the air inlet/outlet tube. its necessary to have this or the tank will rupture from suck or blow. The only way to fix this is get the overflow significantly higher then the tank as most are level or even lower then the top of the tank or put in a one way valve that is removable only allowing air to come in when using the tank but also can be removed when filling the tank with water. On my old rv the back where the water hatch was was ALWAYS wet then I finally figured out what was going on. On my new rv it has 3 overflows and i can literally see spray or mist when it rolls yaws or wind hits the rig in the mirrors. I just got it an this is on my list to fix right now!
craz z 05/27/21 11:15am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Newbie with questions

Q1 best warranty? A savings account full of cash. 2nd best warranty YOU! rvs really should be owned by handy people if not its a really expensive hobby. Don't get picky about issues if you buy new they will hold the rig forever without fixing things (after you take delivery, ONLY be very picky prior to delivery!!). extended warranties have so many exclusions if your patient and stay on them and love the stress of dealing with them then you might collect 1-10% of what you paid. Q2 best wheel and tire. Again YOU. A harbor freight jack and some powertools is all you need. This may or may not always be feasible so AAA is a good option. Some insurances also have these attached to their plans. Check your date codes and LOAD range on the tires all manufacturers use the cheapest rubber money can buy. 5-7 years from the code change them rubber rots from the inside out. Look at a TPMS system, avoid extensions on the stems check your air pressure regularly, look at single piece long valve stems such as tireman or borg dually valve. Q3 AAA, some insurances also provide this free. If you maintain and inspect regularly all 3 of these questions can be avoided somewhat. Really for the money saved from not purchasing any of these you will have more then enough to cover any problems that will come up along with the tools to do the work. AAA, insurance freebies are cheap enough to consider. With all the youtubes available anyone can fix anything.
craz z 05/26/21 11:32am Class C Motorhomes
RE: RV Tech recommends new Inverter (@ $2,500 to install)

Sounds like it might be dead. Obviously he could go deeper and check behind the gfci or open it up and look for burnt mosfets. but typically if a inverter has gfci's on them they are cheap to start with. Its hard to say with out more info. If it is a MSW upgrading to PSW is highly recommended and would certify the old one was a cheap inverter to start with. modified sine wave is the cheapest of cheap inverters The real question is what are u getting for 2500$ hopefully a magnum, victron multiplex, or other really really high end DIRECT wire no gfci psw inverter otherwise total ripoff for say a cheapy gfci 500$ amazon special. the blinking light and other weird things are just side effects of a failing inverter. shore might not correct it as certain circuits are dedicated from the inverter. The "right inverter" can easily cost 2k or in that neighborhood. depends on what all your inverter is running
craz z 05/01/21 08:02am Tech Issues
RE: Dead Onan 4000 generator

Took the plunge with drew e link and went through the password process to get some of the info. so the wiring diagram you need for spec k is 611-1267 By the looks of it fuses are not there for 12v side. the breaker on the gen is only for 120v as u probably already know that. on the diagram it looks like J1-8 on the pinout is bat+ J1-6 is bat- J1-16 is starter wire that goes to solenoid that allows starting to happen. looking at the diagram you need 12v on the large lug on solenoid and you also need 12v+ on the small pin on the solenoid while push the start button. this energizes the coil and ignition With a test light lead connect bat+ and check ground on outside of frame lug. I would also check if possible J1-6 with a pin or paperclip to verify results that you have good ground light should come on if it doesnt BAD ground. next would be move test light to bat- and check solenoid which i think you did. i would also check the signal wire or J1-16 which is small pin on solenoid WHILE push the start button if light comes on bad solenoid if nothing problably bad board as long as grounds check ok. Then I would call the board now there also could be pin fitment issues as well as corrosion so i would take a careful look at the J connector on the board and the pinout to rule this out pin fitment can be as simple as unplug replug or spray contact cleaner if you see any green crusties. as your board is 327-1413 and is approaching 500$ your solenoid is 307-2586 theoretically you could add a small 10amp fuse to a jump wire and jump from bat positive to the small wire on the solenoid to verify your starter turns this might even be the quicker way to verify board however pin fit and corrosion can still be the wild card.
craz z 03/26/21 12:20pm Tech Issues
RE: Dead Onan 4000 generator

I'm struggling to find the documentation on the spec K it sucks cause this particular spec is on like every motorhome made in the last 20 years. I tore one of these down but its been a couple of years. There is a possible fuse to the control board maybe F1 is number. You could try to take out the switch panel where the start stop is on the genny it could be hiding behind it. early models (not spec K) did have this fuse near the switch in plain view. Option 2 is to start taking out the stuff around the control box as there could be another fuse hiding near it. Bat+ comes direct to starter solenoid ground is on the outside of the frame where all the wires enter the genbox. that solenoid also has the signal to fire the starter I would trace any smaller wires to see where they lead hopefully to a fuse. there is a pinout to the J1 P1 connector you could backprobe to verify voltages to the control box. After that control box could be a possibility just cover all your basis as those are silly expensive. the fact you have already replaced it once indicates a short could be hiding in the wiring somewhere. Onans are great until they are not and if it wasn't for the fancy switch in the cab i would rip it out and use the space for a portable gen as for the cost of the control box alone you can buy any cheappy genny on the market.
craz z 03/25/21 04:30pm Tech Issues
RE: mounting my solar panels

A good studfinder helps find cross beams if air is a concern airdam the leading edge of the panel with eternabond Lags sika dicor all work well together rivnuts in 1/4 Luan is marginal at best I like to find the best anchor points first then drill holes in the panel frame for mounting as the predrilled holes never end up where you want them
craz z 03/24/21 10:44pm Tech Issues
RE: Dead Onan 4000 generator

A few questions On prime does the fuel pump hum like normal? Checking 12v input is fine what about output to starter? Can u take out plug to release compression maybe reach in deep an bang on starter? I'm thinking starter the bendix on the Onan is plastic trash that locks up an falls apart a current meter on the output should help. I had a bad starter that would work half ass then finally nothing the starter needs to wind up to throw out the gear into the flywheel once locked out nothing happens and seems to go when you least expect it. If you don't have a slideout Gen it sucks to get to the starter as it's on the back side. Another option is to see if you can gain access to the fan an turn the flywheel it may unlock the bendix you may get a few more starts but will indicate its time to change the starter.
craz z 03/24/21 10:22pm Tech Issues
RE: E-450 16" tire valve size?

I would lean 453 however if u get the dually valve kit it should include both grommets otherwise they are super cheap to order both size grommets separately. The size refers to the rubber that fits the stem hole the actual valve an lock nut fit either or
craz z 03/24/21 01:14am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Metal tire valve replacement

No you shouldn't worry. 453 an 625 are not interchangeable they either fit the hole or they don't. An no you don't use both only one that fits The grommet is what seals when squished the plate below is large enough for compression on 453 or 625 Metal is good to 120 or higher as all semi trucks have metal stems as well I've only had problems with rubber stems rarely with metal. On a ranch truck I made the mistake of putting on rubber an cranking the tires up to 80psi loaded. flats galore an sheared off stems due to overpressure I think there is literature out there stating 50psi is max for a rubber but then there is the hybrids that do go higher pressure which I have never used but can be an option.
craz z 03/24/21 12:51am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Metal tire valve replacement

Order up the dually valve set. I would be extremely concerned if rubber stems are installed on a load E 80psi tire. Blowout is quickly on the horizon. I too have heard of hybrid rubbers that can take higher pressures but metal is cheap an simple to install 453 an 625 grommets are available too. There is a torque spec which is to not over squish the rubber. Usually if you buy a new stem both grommets are included this is also the case if you spring for the dually valve kit I don't know what it is with tire companies but if it's metal or tpms don't know don't touch or heaven forbid replace with rubber. There are good ones out there but they are rare. I bought my own machine for tires out of pure distrust of incompetent tire shops
craz z 03/24/21 12:37am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Any option for re-filling MH Propane Tank from Small Tank?

I've studied this subject extensively and have finally come up with solutions to filling the on-board tank. 1 filling Station easiest most expensive way to fill. 2 extend a stay easiest for Mobil use still very expensive as the 20 pounders are not filled all the way so 20$ gets you 70-80 of max fill for liability. 3 diy liquid transfer need a pol to pol fitting with acme 1 3/4 adaptor. liquid forklift tanks are ideal. 20pounders need to be upside-down for liquid and expect delays with opd device. boiling water is necessary for creating pressure differential. this can be super cheap if filling your pounders off a bulk tank otherwise not worth it extend a stay still wins. Cost is 60 for acme fitting 60 for pol to pol. 120 total 4. The ultimate cheap way buy an adaptor that attaches to the wetleg of a huge tank still need to buy the acme 1 3/4 adapter. Boiling water poured on bulk tank starts the transfer. Open spitter til liquid comes out done. And yes if it's a modern propane tank with a rego valve it will dispense liquid propane as long as hot water is applied to the bulktank to start the transfer. Wetlegs are on all tanks to pump out liquid for large tanks to be transported safely. The bobtail trucks that fill your house are built to withstand a major impact in a crash your home tank is not thus the need to empty them. Propane is moved around in its liquid state only.a pump is ideal if your a propane dealer only as they are easily 10k for a pump setup. Now for safety. Obviously this can be dangerous but most injuries are not from explosions rather from frostbite. propane boils to a gas at -44f so gloves an glasses are necessary. Pent up vapors are clearly an accident waiting to happen wind is your friend congested areas like a campground not the best idea. No electronics or hot rigs as u do need to release a little vapor. The wetleg kit is 200$ plus 60 for the acme adapter. Being remote with access to a bulk home tank an limited filling stations over an hour away have forced me to find an alternative that works. You always run out or low when it's hard to find a station. 20pounders are everywhere and are probably the easiest safest way but absolutely u can fill your on-board tank with bulk fuel for a fraction of the cost. I did this more out of convenience then cost as there is a minimal risk an upfront cost but to be able to fill any propane container at any time without having to plan an carry tanks an hour to a station is priceless. This isn't for everyone an certainly comes with risks, but if you do your homework and follow safe procedures it's very safe.
craz z 03/23/21 11:47pm Class A Motorhomes
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