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 > Your search for posts made by 'craz z' found 11 matches.

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RE: need help with electrical

If you want to check if its charging from the tow vehicle and have a modern 7 way plug. open the flap on the vehicle. with voltage meter check top right blade (12v+) and other lead in bottom left blade (12v-) If 12v is present your good if not most trucks have a spot somewhere in the distribution panel for a maxi fuse 40-50amp. On the converter side if your comfortable working with live voltage check your input 120v for present voltage (breakers can go bad) Listen for a high frequency noise or fan spin If good move over to the output side. 12v some go out directly out to a circuit breaker before continuing on to the battery. (these also can go bad) they look like this breaker Your batteries are shot new or not they are gone. you might think you have some capacity left and they may very well have some but they are goners. If possible add a LVD to the system to prevent future damage to expensive batteries. this is my favorite one you can control with a smart phone. LVD Converters dont run when not plugged in to a 120v source. so your truck if equipped will supply voltage. A even faster check then the one i mentioned earlier. is check battery voltage not plugged into the truck. say 6-12v then plug in the truck and start it and do another voltage check on the battery. should be 13.8-14.1
craz z 07/07/20 03:06pm General RVing Issues
RE: Replacement for Onan 4000

I have a 5500 Champion for the house that has never let me down other than stupid Ethanol gas eating up stuff , carb was $35 for it. My conclusion is the only reason to have a ONAN is its onboard and it has a remote switch. That stupid little convenient switch is the only reason I replaced mine! Total waste of money and i only use it for Air conditioning which in Montana is like 3 hours a day for a month. everything else on my C is powered by lithium and solar or as a backup for winter camping 1-2 weekends per year. There are remotes on newer portable gens that can be used but then its not onboard something you gotta carry around with a hitch rack etc. gas tanks that's why they get the price they do. With a ONAN your paying 3000$ for a switch and a place to suck gas out of your motorhome gas tank not a generator. they are great when the magic switch cools you down in the summer and finicky as a ferrari with almost no serviceable parts when the magic switch decides not to fire it up. I can see why some would not take one even if given for free.
craz z 04/17/20 03:57pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Replacement for Onan 4000

I got very intimate with my onan before finding a deal on craigslist for a hardly used one for 1300$ I did call a ONAN service center only 1 in the state. They laughed at fixing it saying its cheaper to buy a new one then for them to look at it if you are still are interested we have a 3 month wait. Its been awhile since I worked on the project. I did dive deep into testing and gave up. In the end I was faced with throwing an addtional 50$ in the pot for a last resort guess. Then the craigslist deal came up. took the old one to the dump. It had 1300 hours on the house gauge and seemed like it lived its life. the engine was near perfect when i dived in to see how it worked. new starter (not related to its death) just needed a new one. new carb (don't know why just throwing parts at it.) I think at the time plug was wet spark was present. fuel was present. no start. no run. bench tested with fuel and starting fluid. pops but no run or run at low speed and never keep running. checked the timing key on the flywheel. (all good) new plug x2 codes were related to no current output (duh it wont run up to speed thus no voltage current runup) checked commutators on gen. didnt have any shorts not that it matters cause the engine wouldn't run. compression was just fine. piston valves adjusted properly no issues. thought about the control board but it doesnt do anything that i can see for spark or timing. My conclusion that i gave up on was I think the magneto failed even tho it had spark. I never threw the 50$ to confirm. there was nothing left to test. I exhausted all the cheap options from bojack parts. even took what you can apart on the oem carb all clean as clean can get. It was middle of summer and just wanted to be done messing with it and took the deal on craigslist. The new 4000 was never used is like brand new way cleaner then the old one. was dismantled out of an rv and seldom used. i'd look on ebay and craigslist. these are dime a dozen. Oh and P.S. NONE of the newer 4000 ky microquiets have low oil sensors. so you can cross that off the list. air conditioning is the only use for having a generator everything else can be dealt with lithium and solar and a high quality inverter for close to the cost of a new onan.
craz z 04/17/20 12:24pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Lithium Upgrade - Converter charger

So you could drop any BMS equiped LI battery into a common, converter charger designed system for standard wet-cell batteries and it would do fine on its own? With a drop in lead acid replacement lifep04 battery the short answer is yes the bms will take care of the rest. Ideally solar is the best way and only turn on the converter as needed. With any solar charger that is programmed to not absorb or float and cut-off at 14.4 ideally 13.7 I see NO advantage whatsoever in investing in a lithium specific charger. Without solar I would not just leave the converter on 24/7 plugged in 365 days a year. then i would consider a lithium charger but if your a rv park person lithium was kind of a waste of money.
craz z 02/29/20 08:21am Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Lithium Upgrade - Converter charger

This question depends on what batteries you have? drop in replacements or home built lithium cells. Drop ins you can use anything you want to charge them. BMS controls all functions as to how they are charged LVD HVD LTD especially if we are talking about battleborns. Other brands do not have low temp disconnect. NEVER charge below freezing. Since you have solar let the solar do its job on the highend and you can monitor any charger for the "bulk" for fast charging. If you want to maximize cycle life end the charge at 13.6-13.7 for LIFEPO4 Lithiums don't like to be at 100% at all times they live much longer at 80% SOC even Tesla recommends this on their NMC batteries. They don't mind 100% but not forever cell degradation happens at very low cell voltage and at very high cell voltage of their charge curve. The advantage of Lithium specific chargers are high amps for fast charging and complete cutoff at the 14.4 level. You wont find this in a regular charger as the absorb, float and equalize are all functions lithium does not want or care about. Again if its a battleborn the BMS will take care of everything for you without a thought of damaging the cells. Also if you are hooking up to utilize the charging off your alternator disconnect the battery or buy the battery isolation manager. You will toast the alternator eventually as they weren't designed to run wide open all the time. you start your car alt is asked to replace the amps then goes to a sleep mode where as if lithium is involved it will ask for anything the alternator can put out amp wise. dramatically shortening its life. Now if its a home built system without BMS you need to monitor the voltages per cell and don't go over 3.65v per cell. Victron LVD with bluetooth will handle the low voltage and you can cut the power anytime you like with the phone app. Solar charger must be programmed if you can't program your solar charger dont use with lithium. without a bms Morningstar is harder but works, victron is the easiest with a lithium charge alogorithium built in plug n play. BMS's are coming online with ebay and aliexpress, battery hookup if you don't want to monitor your batteries basically turning it into a battleborn. If you look at the charge curve of lithium they live happily between 12.0v and 13.3 once you go outside of that they either charge rapidly or fall rapidly if you go past 14.4 or under 10.6 those are the only times you risk doing damage to a lifepo4 cell whether its prismatic or cylindrical.
craz z 02/27/20 04:53pm Do It Yourself Modifications and Upgrades (DIY)
RE: Thinking a Battery Monitor.............

1) Shunt is required for a "good battery monitor" Hall effects work fine but require manual monitoring if your electrical bay is in a difficult place putting in a manual monitor will be difficult to use. I'm sure you can extend the wiring to place things where you'd like but Bluetoothing is the way to go for convenience. 2) Battery monitors are their own system within the system you don't have to be married to any brand of controller some may talk better within their own systems but certainly not necessary. 3)Bluetooth is great as you dont need to waste time putting your monitors in a place that is accessible and useable to be able to see whats going on from the battery monitor. signal is usually good for a 10-15 foot circle around the rv. Victron connect password is 000000 this will connect you to their devices immediately on startup. 4) Battery monitors are a pretty quiet usually misunderstood piece to the electrical puzzle, but absolutely essential to fully understanding and Knowing instantly if you have a battery problem. There is no one place to learn but this is where I would start. solar Solar education is ongoing and I started with Bob the solar guy and have moved on to Wills stuff that is pretty rock solid along with other forums including Wills to understand everything that is going on. 4-6 years ago trimetrics was all there was minus the marine market for rvs that is slowly changing. 5)Low cost hall effects and the picture above in the post of the Chinese BM are low cost for a reason. They do not bluetooth and require alot of chineglish to setup and get working correctly. They also require Manual monitoring to see whats going on. some not all dont record your day to day and only spot check whats happening right now. Its a hard pill to swallow but you did want the best and the bmv712 with bluetooth is it right now. My own personal opinion is I wish I was doing my system today rather then 6 years ago when I started. Like em or hatem Victron solar controllers and all their gadgets like the bmv 712 and low voltage disconnect all registering in a nice handy little app on a smart phone is unparalleled with any other brand on the market. The data these provide is unreal its on demand its programmed with your fingers and you can switch to lithium as you wish without any further purchases. My morningstar charge controller required a special cable that i had to rip out the bed to get to my controller and custom program the dip switches then download a program to program the custom settings that i had to sit and watch until i fine tuned it for several days with a laptop for lithium the Victron once installed is all done in the app. To my knowledge Morningstar does NOT have a battery monitor only a small feature on the remote solar controller monitor that records AH in that is manually resetable for the day and TOTAL ah Only available with the higher end solar controllers. MSVIEW was a easy program to learn but the victron is a million times easier doing it on the PHONE APP! Voltage based monitoring in solar applications is NOT accurate at all. Especially when the sun comes out and having no idea amp hours coming and going you can only rely on amp hours harvested through the morningstar remote meter to guess whats going on with actual SOC. Especially with SLA's or FLA's lithium is a little more accurate as they have little to no internal resistance. All RV's with batteries are never fully disconnected from the load unless you pull the disconnect switch and wait 24 hours for the static charge to dissipate to find out your "real SOC" for this reason alone voltage based battery monitoring is a waste of time, but it is light years ahead of the really crappy 4 lights of death the rv manufactures put in. Aside from super expensive highend marine monitors like the rv Tito one or the old school bogart trimeteric monitor the Victron is the lowest cost one. If you dont care but want to dabble or on a low budget then the cheapy chinese BM or even the Hall effects will serve a better purpose then voltage monitoring your batteries. be prepared to spend time to learn how they work as the cheap droks monitor one way and you have to have 2 to monitor both ways in and out.
craz z 01/02/20 12:23pm Tech Issues
RE: Converter Panel "Latch"

If u read the reviews on the first link especially the 1 stars you'll quickly see how hard inserting the lock into the latch even if using a hammer. one guy bought 7 sets and broke most of them amazon is good at returns but even at 6$ if you break 7 sets that's 42$ not that you'd pay all that but still. All I can say is take your time and take a break when your ready to smash it.
craz z 12/10/19 01:22am Tech Issues
RE: Converter Panel "Latch"

I picked the cheapest one. here is a name brand one with a price that's out of this world but hey it's got great reviews! U might even get 2 based on the great reviews haha it's one of those items with great profit margins Latch
craz z 12/10/19 12:21am Tech Issues
RE: Converter Panel "Latch"

Latch Here is what your looking for. They are off the charts expensive so be careful when installing. for whatever reason they mold the catch and lock together separating and mating the 2 together can be where the frustration begins. I think i bought this one too as i will use tape or something else then buy a name brand one 20$ these are worth less then 10 cents. I use caution when ever using these whether on the fridge or converter panel. Up is unlocked sideways is locked. carefully make sure the latch is all the way in before locking. NEVER FORCE they will always break as do they degrade over long time periods. take your time separating the 2 and even more time pressing the lock into the latch or you will break the new one. They make them tight so the lock cant jiggle back out. I dont have any great tricks to get them in i think i pressed it in until my finger bled probably broke one of them an somehow got them to go in. Good luck. mine has been in service for a few years after you figure it out
craz z 12/09/19 12:47pm Tech Issues
RE: Recommend a sealant or caulk

literally anything but dicor buytl caulk sag or non-sag or silicone. neither should be put on a rv ever. If you watch even a few of these videos of brand new like not even a year old rv's you will quickly change your mind about dicor. Its no secret that rv's are made like total garbage RV roof install His famous line is dicor wants you to put more on the only one that puts more on is a MORON. if you dig deep into dicors more industrial side of rv products even they are recommmending polyurethane extrusion for rv makers mostly on the framless window side. for a more positive longer lasting seal. similar to the windshield industry which very few of those leak or ever need to be replaced until you crack it. haha:) silicon sticks to nothing. dicor shrinks and cracks and requires reapplication up to 2 times a year. Polyurethane is rated for 20-25 years is often cheaper more pliable and is also an adhesive. two good brands are chemlink m-1 and sikaflex 1a as well as many many others. these are applied to commercial roofing that doesn't need reapplication constantly and are subjected to the same forces of nature as an rv numero uno being sun damage. caulks are not intended to "waterproof" anything just to keep the majority of the water from getting to the actual seal. rvs are made so terrible this is often the only line of defense in most places as there is nothing below the caulk except raw wood to rot. So buy the best you possibly can and look into eternabond under corner seals or even dicor's seam seal tape for a first line and follow with polyurethane only as a 2nd line of defense. If i had the chance to drive all the way to Georgia i'd be putting on a roof with these guys and having curbs built and everything heatwelded. Very high quality work. for now its sika, and chemlink.
craz z 09/04/19 12:26pm General RVing Issues
RE: Need to buy replacement battery

I have a CA majestic. I went down the battery rabbit hole big time. I'm now 100% convinced I would not put anything but lithium in my rig. Now the question to ask is what is your lifestyle with your RV? Mine is 100% boondocking rarely if ever do i go to a hookup unless at my house only to keep the fridge going. my convertor is disconnected because i have solar and dont need it anymore. not to mention the convertors ruin perfectly fine batteries unless upgraded to 3 stage charging with temp compensation. If you are in the occasional use buy what u can afford if you are like me using the rv every weekend or more buy lithium dont look at the cost as it doesnt mean anything. They are not 1300$ battleborn starts at 949$ and is the top of the lithium food chain right now with many many others prices way below that in the used market they are cheaper then agms. The math works out in your favor each and everytime with lithium so long as you follow lithiums rules.(rules only apply to diy lithium cells) no rules apply to highend bms integrated lithium like battleborn, ruixu never overcharge never undercharge and never charge in extreme cold 30f or below discharge can go as low as -10. they prefer to be half full or less for storage. If you spring for the BMS intergrated ones especially battleborn you worry about nothing it does it all for you. I built my own so i have it on its own special program. As you know the majestic is super tight on space they come with one battery that doesnt do anything helpful other then to get you to the next hookup. there is no space to build a bank for 2 six volts or even add more then one group 31 which is equivalent to 100amp hours 50ah are useable. Idling with nothing on except the fridge you will blow through that in 1-2 days. My system on my majestic (yours is more likely different) power center is under the bed. I added a invertor to power up the 110 outlets and tv so the only place to add additional batteries are under the bed. I bought 2 very expensive vmax solar agms at 300$ a pop times 2 im in those batteries almost 600$ for 250ah total 125ah useable. they charge slower and the capacity i know is on its way downhill and have only had them for 5 years. an expensive mistake but had no choice as agms were the only option other then lithium for indoor use (no toxic off gassing like lead acids) My lithium i built was used and cheap i paid 300$ for the used cells and they are still at 80% capacity and will stay there for the next 10 years. my solar system is now actually doing something rather then dumping the power as lithium sucks up every available amp that it can get whereas the agms bulk quickly to 70-80% and basically float the rest of the day wasting the available harvest in the panels. Lithium is 100% the ideal choice for any rv large or small. On first glance it looks ridiculous expensive but after actually using one i'd never look at a agm or lead acid ever for any rv i would own. real world experience tells me they charge faster, keep a constant voltage zero sag great for all onboard electronics, keep my back healthy if i need to take it out or put it in as it weighs 20-30lbs, i can waste as much power as i want after midday until dark, no fear of dropping below the dreaded 50% level. 3-5 years is probably the average ownership of most rv's with most getting used maybe 20-30 times in that time period. if thats u then lithium totally doesnt make any sense. nor if you are hookup rv park type. If you are a bigtime boondocker lithium is the only choice that makes not only financial sense but comfort of enjoying your outdoor time without a care in the world about battery anxiety coupled with a solar system of course. (sounds like a used carsalesman but its true you can't damage them like you can with regular batteries.) one time with any agm/lead acid below 50% starts tearing down capacity. it gets smaller and smaller even when doing the right thing until you are faced with shelling out another 300-600$ for another 1-2 more batteries here is an example of affordable lithium that wont break the bank.As you can see this is smaller foot print with way more capacity then 2 monster heavy vmax group 31 70lbs a piece lead bricks. 138ah is whats useable at 80% in 300cycles which i doubt more like 90% or more at 300cycles is still around 110ah useable in a GROUP 27 unbelieveable! Valence lithium
craz z 09/04/19 10:59am Class C Motorhomes
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