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Forum
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RE: Awning Blowing Fuse
Remember, you should have a 4 or 5 wire switch. That switch REVERSES the 12 volt polarity to make the motor turn one way(extend) and Reverses when you retract. So, you can have a short on 2 wires and not just 1. When the switch reverses the Neg wire is now positive and when reverses the other way the OTHER negative wire now becomes positive. So it appears you have drilled holes into the 2 wires coming from the switch to the motor. You may just have to go inside and cut an access hole in the interior wall behind where you drilled and installed the new screws. Just make the access hole smaller than a 4 by 4 blank wall plate. Doug
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dougrainer
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08/09/22 11:40am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Help with identifying delamination / water damage
He is asking C37,000 which is about $29000 US. 160,000 miles, NOT kilometers. This is truly a pig in a poke. The fact that he wants $500 NONREFUNDABLE PAYPAL within 24 hours of sale would mean he does not want a independent chassis and RV inspection? This RV is truly a BAD buy. Doug
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dougrainer
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08/08/22 02:55pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Help with identifying delamination / water damage
It is never a good idea to buy a commercial rented RV Trailer or Motorhome. Especially if you do not have the skills to do your own repairs. It will have 10 times the use of a normal private owned RV. Also, a LOT of RV renters have never rented an RV before so, they will inadvertantly cause damage on various systems. You don't state price but regular NON rental models like yours(year and brand) are selling between 22k and 30k. Comparing Car rentals with RV rentals is truly apples and oranges. EVERBODY that rents a Car, knows how to drive and use most of the basic systems. So breaking things is very rare. AS I explained above RV rentals, very few really know how to use them correctly. So, they get abused a lot more. Your pics of the motorhome show a Motorhome that has been rode hard. The seller is probably firm because like you he thought he got a good deal and wants out of it without losing money, which he will do, unless he finds a sucker to buy for his price. Is there a reason you do NOT want to list his asking price? What is the Mileage? Doug
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dougrainer
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08/08/22 02:48pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Norcold cooling problem
Thanks Doug.
I get it. I have also had a probe in the freezer at the same time I had a probe in the fridge. It shows the temp to be 0-3 degrees.
How would I check to see that the AC heating element is seated properly?
I had a "technician" change it at great expense but it didn't improve performance. I do have a control board ordered.
You have to pull the refer to release the clips that hold the round metal tube that holds the insulation. Sometimes if the OEM gave enough room you can release the clips without removing the refer. You will see the tubes and if you can move the heat element and it moves inward and outward from the flue, it is loose. Do not confuse movement with up and down. Before you do this, wire the 120 element direct to 120 volts for 24 hours and see what the refer does. Doug
BTW, what was the great expense? It takes less than 1 hour to replace the 120 element. The only problem is, IF the old element is rusted/gauled and cannot be removed. Then you just insert a new element in the 2nd 120 element tube.
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dougrainer
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08/08/22 01:06pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Propane fridge not working as good
1999 is pretty old fridge. When you give up completely and if you can get to Indiana, check our National RV Refrigeration North of Shipshewana. They know their stuff. They rebuild units, install scratch and dent units, or install new units all at likely less money than anywhere else. They also do AC.
not that old, mines a 1991 and runs like a top. take care of an adsorption fridge and they last forever. its when people run them out of level and so on they have issues.
BINGO. RV refers WILL last forever. Unless it breaks a weld and leaks. BUT, the main thing is OFF LEVEL running that ruins refers. I know, people will state they NEVER run off level. But they are fooling themselves. They always forget that time they were traveling and stopped for an hour or more and left the refer ON parked slightly unlevel. THAT starts the very small blockage. Do that scores of times and then 1 day when it is hotter, the refer fails to perform as needed. It is because it has a small blockage. NOT enough to not cool at all but enough to not cool the lower section as when new. The system is VERY SIMPLE. As long as you have level operation the Ammonia will go to vapor and reform to liquid and cause cooling. The only thing that stops it is that blockage that starts out small and eventually gets large enough to impeded correct cooling. This is why burping NEVER works. The blockage is as hard as a weld and attached and cannot be broken loose or removed. Burping just realigns the ammonia in the CU and once the blockage stops the normal flow again the cooling stops. Doug
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dougrainer
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08/08/22 08:50am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Norcold cooling problem
The freezer cools great and usually to 0 to 10 degrees because IT is the first evap plate the CU tubes run thru. Then it goes down to the lower evap plate. The Lower evap plate is where the tstat regulates lower cooling. There is NO regulation of the freezer cooling. AND, any CU blockage is AFTER the Freezer coils. That is why people think they have a good refer, because the freezer does so great. BUT!!!!! Freezing is anything below 32 degrees. Unless you get an accurate Thermometer reading on the freezer, then HOW would you be able to tell 15 degrees as opposed to 22 or 10 or 26 degrees> It ALL seems cold. AND, Frozen items in the freezer will KEEP the freezer temp a long time, even if you have a control problem. Doug
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dougrainer
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08/08/22 08:41am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Norcold cooling problem
The glass of water is NO TRICK. It is the ONLY way to verify lower refer temps. In EXTREME cases(I have only seen one in 43 years) the 120 element sleeve is partially detached. BUT, on a Norcold there are 2 sleeves and you just insert the element in the other sleeve if this is the case. Your Line voltage is great. Doug
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dougrainer
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08/07/22 08:11am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Propane fridge not working as good
Doug, and what advice do you have have that is maybe helpful to the situation? I did say some like it and some dont? And i believe I said to do it as a last resort? At least now we know where you stand. Almost like we needed the helpful advice. Oh, no , we didnt. Lol.
I am just stating a FACT. After 43 years as a RV tech, I think I would know what works and what does NOT work. If a person wants to take the time to remove the refer and then spend a couple of days rotating the refer and then reinstalling. Then do it. A LOT of work for something that will not work. Years ago People with a blocked refer would burp when selling and the refer "appears" to work when they sell it, but a few days later it is blocked again and the new owner is stuck. Newbies have no idea how much RV refers cost and cost to replace a cooling unit. Blocked refers, the freezer will work, THAT is what gets buyers to think the refer is OK. Doug
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dougrainer
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08/07/22 08:07am |
Tech Issues
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RE: HWH 210 series HYD pump motor not working
1. The ONLY place you will find the correct part is HWH.
2. There is an AP number on the existing pump/reservoir. Can you read and get that number?
3. The BEST way to contac HWH is (retail customer) is by E mail. They respond to Emails quicker. Phone calls are reserved for Service Centers. I e mail them all the time and get a response within 48 hours with the Part Numbers I need. I only call when I have a Technical problem. But as a Service Center, I get thru.
4. E mail them with the AP number and tell them you need either a RAP number for the motor and if the motor is obsolete, the RAP number for the replacement Tank/Reservoir/Motor assbly. Make sure you state Year model and that it is a 200 series system. Doug
[email protected]
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dougrainer
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08/07/22 08:01am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: Propane fridge not working as good
https://www.rvtravel.com/does-your-refrigerator-have-indigestion-burp-that-baby/
Thank you. I'll look into it and maybe give it a good burp.
Burping NEVER fixes a partial or completely block Cooling unit. Waste of time. Doug
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dougrainer
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08/06/22 08:51pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Norcold cooling problem
How and what are you using to monitor the Temp? The ONLY correct way to monitor the lower refer temp is to take a digital thermometer and insert in a small glass of water after 24 hours. The freezer should be 0 to 10 degrees and the refer below 38 degrees. Doug
You cannot use a IR thermometer.
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dougrainer
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08/06/22 08:50pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Norcold cooling problem
The reason may be as simple as the 120 is INOP. The freezer will NOT really lose cooling but the lower section will after you stated time frame. Doug
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dougrainer
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08/06/22 02:37pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Norcold cooling problem
The BTU's for both 120 and LP are the SAME. 120 will cool just as good as LP. BUT, if the LINE VOLTAGE is below 114 volts, then the 120 element(also BTU) will be less to cool correctly. When you have marginal 120 line voltage then go to LP until the line voltage is above 115 volts. Doug
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dougrainer
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08/06/22 02:36pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: stuck slide
You'll need to access the dead motor from the outside, loosen a set screw, and lift the motor up to be able to push the slide in if it's a Schwintec.
Yes, but Schwintec will manually push in or out once no power at the controller. It is easier, but you have to lift up BOTH motors. But if you lift the bad motor up, you can then go to override and the good motor will retract and you have to have someone pushing in the dead motor side. Doug
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dougrainer
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08/06/22 02:32pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: stuck slide
OK, I tried the override button. The answer is that the back of the slide moved, but the front did not. This afternoon I will get some friends together and try pushing.
Instead of pulling the connectors on the controller, would unplugging from 110 and disconnecting the battery have the same effect?
This happened while I’m home. We planned to head out camping on Monday. If we can push the slide in, we may do some cramped camping (slide stays in) anyway. See what else foes wrong before taking it in for service. I was also worried about how to get it to the dealer for repair.
You would think so, but, Schwintek states that you must disconnect from the controller. I would try disconnecting the battery and the 120. I always just disconnect at the controller because it is quick and easy. This link is a video that will help you. Doug
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cxEYSstvICI
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dougrainer
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08/06/22 07:35am |
Tech Issues
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RE: stuck slide
Thanks for the suggestion about pushing it. I saw the mode button, but I assumed that if the line is shorted, that won’t work. It is a smaller slide, so pushing it shouldn’t be too hard.
Does the slide stay in well enough that it is safe to drive?
Once the room is retracted, reconnect the motor connects on the control module. THAT locks in the motors, but Schwintek's rarely will move. The force to retract will be the same force to cause extension in transit. So, the room will not move in transit. Doug
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dougrainer
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08/06/22 05:19am |
Tech Issues
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RE: stuck slide
How do you override a Schwintek slide?
Press the “mode button” six times quickly, then press a seventh time and hold for approximately five seconds (Fig. 1). C. The red and green LED lights will begin to flash, confirming the override mode.
The Mode button is inside that hole in the controller where the Red/Green LED lights are. Use a flashlight and you will see the small black button. Once you are in override, go inside and push to retract. Hopefully the room(both motors) will retract. This procedure removes the motor counters and just supplies 12 volt pos and neg to both motors. IF the POS and NEG wires are shorted or cut, then this procedure will not work. If this does NOT work, disconnect both Motor 1 and motor 2 quick connects on the controller. Then 3 or 4 people can then manually PUSH the room to retract. It will be hard but the room will move. Doug
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dougrainer
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08/05/22 06:11pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: HWH 210 series HYD pump motor not working
When in HWH site the pump is a Monarch. There are motors available on Amazon. I didn't find a motor number listed on my paperwork.
found motor number. RAP90415. Replaced by AP14608
They make 3 inch and 4.5 inch motors. So you need to make sure the diameter is the same. Doug
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dougrainer
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08/05/22 04:45am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: HWH 210 series HYD pump motor not working
Hi Doug, two auto places said Norcore might do it. It must be Norkor clutch and brake in New Haven that you referenced. I will call them tomorrow. The last place asked what the HP was, the rpm and which way the motor turned cw or ccw none of which I new. The only info on the motor itself is Made in Slovenia. Do you know any of these specs or know where I could find them?
No I don't. The Alternator/Starter rebuild shop in Fort Worth, Texas, never asked for those details. They just rewinded and rebuilt the various Pump motors we sent to them. I just did a Google search for your area for rebuilders and those came up. When HWH motors are obsolete, You just purchase a NEW Tank/Motor system from HWH. This has the reservoir tank and the Motor connected to the aluminum manifold. You just trans fer the existing hose connections which fit. Doug
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dougrainer
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08/05/22 04:21am |
Class A Motorhomes
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RE: HWH 210 series HYD pump motor not working
,];tbs:lrf:!1m4!1u3!2m2!3m1!1e1!1m4!1u2!2m2!2m1!1e1!2m1!1e2!2m1!1e3!3sIAE,lf:1,lf_ui:10]https://www.google.com/search?q=New%20Haven%20CT%20alternator%20rebuild%20shops&sxsrf=ALiCzsZM73RMOubv92KMZLK1OVPlkaAIGg:1659639449538&source=hp&ei=ixbsYrSsFomliLMPqIyD8A0&iflsig=AJiK0e8AAAAAYuwkm8Na4s4RQY6b7Z1H5kLvv3MV5Z1G&ved=2ahUKEwiE4ODe7q35AhWpMlkFHVtvCxUQvS56BAgVEAE&uact=5&oq=New+Haven+CT+alternator+rebuild+shops&gs_lcp=Cgdnd3Mtd2l6EAM6BQgAEIAEOgoIABCABBCHAhAUOggIABCABBDJAzoFCAAQkgM6BQgAEIYDUABYiF1gw19oAHAAeACAAfUDiAGKG5IBCjM1LjMtMS4wLjGYAQCgAQE&sclient=gws-wiz&tbs=lf:1,lf_ui:10&tbm=lcl&rflfq=1&num=10&rldimm=13573598440769894415&lqi=CiVOZXcgSGF2ZW4gQ1QgYWx0ZXJuYXRvciByZWJ1aWxkIHNob3BzSKWntuu1rYCACFo1EAMQBBAFGAAYARgCGAQiJW5ldyBoYXZlbiBjdCBhbHRlcm5hdG9yIHJlYnVpbGQgc2hvcHOSARdhdXRvX2VsZWN0cmljYWxfc2VydmljZaoBIBABKhwiGGFsdGVybmF0b3IgcmVidWlsZCBzaG9wcygA&sa=X&rlst=f#rlfi=hd:;si:13573598440769894415,l,CiVOZXcgSGF2ZW4gQ1QgYWx0ZXJuYXRvciByZWJ1aWxkIHNob3BzSKWntuu1rYCACFo1EAMQBBAFGAAYARgCGAQiJW5ldyBoYXZlbiBjdCBhbHRlcm5hdG9yIHJlYnVpbGQgc2hvcHOSARdhdXRvX2VsZWN0cmljYWxfc2VydmljZaoBIBABKhwiGGFsdGVybmF0b3IgcmVidWlsZCBzaG9wcygA;mv:,];tbs:lrf:!1m4!1u3!2m2!3m1!1e1!1m4!1u2!2m2!2m1!1e1!2m1!1e2!2m1!1e3!3sIAE,lf:1,lf_ui:10
None of these shops can rebuild? Doug
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dougrainer
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08/04/22 12:58pm |
Class A Motorhomes
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