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RE: Samsung RF18 Fridge

OK thanks all. I will try what opnspaces posted from the Samsung website. I tried flipping the circuit breaker to the fridge, but that did not work. Don't know how the wiring works, but the invertor sent power to the fridge and it kept working. Its wired someway that the fridge works while driving down the road. The tow vehicle keeps the battery charged and the invertor keeps power to the fridge. I assume to make that stop, I need flip the circuit breaker to the Invertor and then pull the 15 or 20 amp fuse to the invertor. To complicated. I just want to shut off the fridge and still have power in the rig... Interesting about the inverter. Turning the breaker off should kill the refer weather the inverter is on or off. Maybe check that the refer breaker actually controls it. Wouldn't be the first time the factory monkey screwed something up. How about just unplugging it if the plug is accessible? Probably not the way most of the factory inverters are installed. They act kind of like a computer UPS. The breaker feeds the inverter and the inverter feeds the refrigerator and possibly a few other outlets. When the AC from the breaker cuts off either by the breaker being tripped or turned off or from the shore power being disconnected, the inverter switches over to battery and keeps things working.
happy2rv 05/28/20 09:05pm Tech Issues
RE: Samsung RF18 Fridge

Unfortunately, I'm not familiar with the Solitude, but if the inverter is installed behind a panel, there is almost certainly a remote on/off switch somewhere inside. I saw a post on a Grand Design forum that the switch for other models is located "under the cabinet where the main panel is located". Not sure exactly what that means though. Also unfortunately, they don't always label them real well. It's usually a toggle switch and often has the brand name of the inverter like MAGNUM ENERGY or XANTREX on the surrounding faceplate. Hopefully someone more familiar with the Solitude will chime in.
happy2rv 05/28/20 09:01pm Tech Issues
RE: Samsung RF18 Fridge

The inverter should have an on/off switch on it or a remote on/off switch. You may or may not need to flip the breaker in the load center in addition to turning the inverter off. What model of RV? Our Hemisphere has the inverter installed in the "outside" compartment (really just under the bed). It has a button on it to turn switch it on and off. When its on, it will automatically switch between 120V AC when it is available and providing inverter power from the battery when it loses AC.
happy2rv 05/28/20 06:56pm Tech Issues
RE: Neutral lines reversed

As time2roll suggested, please post the model of surge protector and exactly which lights or message it was providing. Bottom line, if your surge protector isn't "happy" with the power, yes it's a big deal. Some problems have more potential to do great harm than others, but all issues should be resolved. As others have indicated, 50A service has 1 Neutral, 1 Ground, and 2 110V lines. It's not possible for both to be reversed, but it is possible for L1 and neutral or L2 and neutral to be reversed. If this is what was being indicated, it is a potentially dangerous situation, in terms of threat to life and damage to equipment, for several reasons.
happy2rv 05/28/20 06:39pm Tech Issues
RE: Battery isolation switch

The battery disconnect is used when you put your RV in storage. There are always "parasite" (some intentional, some not) that will drain the battery when its not hooked up to shore power. For instance, you should have a propane alarm and a carbon monoxide alarm. These will always be on if the battery is connected this is by design. Other things like the radio if its equipped, monitor panel, etc... can also drain small amounts of power. If you are storing the RV without shore power, you definitely want to switch the battery off. Even if you have shore power available, you may want to switch the battery off and hook up a battery maintainer instead of keeping the entire RV powered up when its not being used. There are several reasons for this. First, the stock power converter / chargers tend to be poor battery maintainers and tend to over charge the batteries. Second, unless you flip the breakers off, when you hook up to shore power, everything is powered up. This means more wear and tear and chance for surges or lightning strikes hitting all of your appliances and TVs. Does it have an impact when having my fridge running off electric, then disconnecting electric and have the fridge automatically run on propane? Thanks. I just don't want the fridge to try to run on 12v dc This really isn't related to the refrigerator specifically. Depending on what type of refrigerator you have, it may or may not be able to run entirely on 12V. Given you referenced propane, I will assume you don't have a residential compressor type refrigerator. So, that leaves 2-Way or 3-Way RV refrigerators. A three way can run entirely off of 12V, but typically not very efficiently. The refrigerator will have a switch on it to select a specific mode of operation AC/propane/Auto for 2-Way or AC/DC/propane/Auto for 3-way. If you set it to Auto, it will run on propane when AC isn't available. As WayneAt63044 indicated, these types of refrigerators always need 12V for the control board to function. This is typically a small current draw compared to actually running the heating element on 12V. As Wayne also indicated, when you plug into shore power, the converter will provide 12V to power everything that operates at 12V and charge the battery.
happy2rv 05/28/20 05:49pm Travel Trailers
RE: Respond to posts

There are some issues with the moderators closing and deleting posts. I'm sure the moderator closed your post due to some of the responses you received that have nothing to do with you. Please start a new thread. You can link to the original thread, as long as the moderators don't delete it, by clicking the hyperlink labeled "Link" in your original thread, copy the link, and paste it into your new thread. As I said in my response to your original thread, there are some issues here with grumpy trolls (some of them moderators). There are also some issues with technical difficulties. Try not to take it personally, those trolls are just that trolls. There is also a wealth of useful information and a community of helpful and wise people willing to share.
happy2rv 05/28/20 05:37pm Forum Posting Help and Support
RE: Electrical Issues on new travel trailer

First, welcome to the forum. Hopefully all the negative responses don't scare you away. There are many people here who are genuinely interested in helping but there are many others who look for any excuse to put others down or show their "superiority". As others have said, some in less polite ways, if someone else provided an RV plug that fit your trailer, a campground for instance, they have some explaining to do and possibly some liability. If you installed it yourself or used an existing plug of unknown origin, you've probably learned a valuable lesson. We all make mistakes and hopefully learn from them. So, now to tackle some of your questions. There will almost certainly be damage to the electrical system, especially if you saw/smelled the "magic" smoke escaping. The extent is the question. The full extent may take a while to know because some damage will show up as immediate failures and other failures may be delayed. Methodical testing is the best path forward. If you're not comfortable testing, you may need to get a technician to check things out. You indicated that "much later there was another pop and then the microwave, A/C and TV turned on." That being the case, they don't appear to have suffered instant failure. How were they being powered when they came back on? The microwave and A/C are almost certainly not powered by an inverter, so you must have moved to another outlet? Proper troubleshooting will require opening the main breaker panel in the RV and checking voltages with a voltmeter as well as some knowledge of electrical system. You can do limited testing without doing that. Start with turning off all of the circuit breakers in the RV's electrical panel. Hook up a surge suppressor with indicators to a known good/correctly wired power source and verify the indicators show proper wiring. Turn off the breaker at the hookup and connect the trailer with all of the circuit breakers still off. Once the trailer is plugged in, turn the breaker at the hookup point back on. Assuming it stays on and the surge suppressor still indicates good power, go inside the RV and turn on the main breaker in the RV panel. Check the indicators on the surge suppressor again and verify they are still good. Then one by one step through each circuit breaker turning them on and verifying whether the appliance or outlet they control works. One of the circuits will be your DC converter. This is usually installed behind the RV electrical panel or sometimes it's part of the electrical panel. This converts 110V AC to 12V DC. This is what powers your lights, refrigerator control board, and furnace among other things. When this is not plugged in, these things run off of the battery. You may or may not have an inverter that provides 110V AC from the batteries for a few plugs and/or refrigerator, depending on the style of refrigerator. The inverter would not power things like the microwave or air conditioning. Damages could be as simple as blown fuses, but if there was smoke, the damage is probably deeper. Verify what works and what doesn't.
happy2rv 05/28/20 11:51am Tech Issues
RE: How do I reach these clearance lights?

You could rent a bucket lift, but it would be costly. Probably cheaper to pay someone to do what you need done unless you have other needs for the lift. Given the angles, it would probably still be an awkward reach.
happy2rv 05/15/20 09:14pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: New and looking for a generator

I would have to say, at first blush, that venerable NT Powerhorse 3500 looks almost EXACTLY like that throw away HF Predator 3500. I believe they are exactly the same units, one in red, the other in blue. The difference is in the support. Northern Tools claims to support their stuff at any NT location, Harbor Freight AFAIK makes no such claim. I don't have personal experience with NT actual service because I haven't needed it yet. I have tried to get parts for HF products in the past with little success. Lots of people like the HF Predator and I considered one. NT claims of service availability and a friend's advice that they did stand behind their products pointed me to the NT. When/if I ever actually need service, I hope the claims hold true. There was a time that buying a Honda virtually guaranteed a high quality, trouble free experience. Reviews of late seem to indicate that might not be the case any more. Even if it were still the case, many people, me included, based on positive long term reviews of the "inferior" alternatives would rather gamble on the less expensive alternatives. I could buy two 2K PowerHorse for the price of one Honda or three of the Powerhorse 3KW for the price of one 2.8KW Honda. I'll take the chance that 3 Powerhorses outlast 1 Honda...
happy2rv 05/15/20 09:27am Travel Trailers
RE: New and looking for a generator

... The only thing that would concern me is parts availability if you should have a issue beyond warranty. Maybe the people at Harbor freight / Northern tool can clarify the availability of parts. My post in an earlier thread, here, addressed this. That was my primary reason for going with the NT Powerhorse over Harbor Freight or Champion. Northern Tools has in store service on all of their small engines and they have extended service contracts that cover unintentional damage as well as failures. I've only had mine about 6 months and have had no issues, but I haven't used it heavily either. I don't have personal experience with the service they provide, other than the advice of a friend I trust. I do have some experience trying to track down parts for Harbor Freight items. Lets just say if you buy it from HF, its a throw away when it breaks. That's OK for some things. It looks like the NT Powerhorse 3500 Surge/3000 rated is on sale right now...
happy2rv 05/14/20 05:13pm Travel Trailers
RE: New and looking for a generator

Look for inverter generators. I've made several posts about why I chose Northern Tools PowerHorse inverter generator. Honda is considered the "gold" standard. Operative word being gold. Predator by Harbor Freight is basically the same generator as the PowerHorse, but without the in store service availability. Champion makes several models that have good reviews and choices between gas only and gas/propane. There are several other brands to choose from. Inverter generators should be quiet. With respect to size, as others have already said, you will need around 3KW to start and run the A/C. This can be achieved in a couple of ways. The least expensive is a single 3KW inverter generator. Inverter generators of that size usually weigh somewhere between 100 and 130 pounds. You can also get 2 smaller generators that support parallel operation (most of the inverter models do). Most of the 1.6 - 2KW inverter generators weigh between 50 and 60 pounds. This has the benefits of not having to heft the single heavy generator around and only running one of them when you don't need the A/C. One of the smaller generators will be quieter and use less fuel than the larger one. The obvious downside is twice the maintenance, more stuff to keep up with, slightly more complicated to set up, and two smaller units will likely be (slightly?) more expensive than one larger one. The smaller units also tend not to have electric start while the larger ones do.
happy2rv 05/14/20 06:19am Travel Trailers
RE: Electrical issues

Not to point out the obvious, but the OP hasn't been back since 4/26 and never posted any additional information to help understand his problem. Too many questions and conflicting descriptions of the problem to hazard a guess about what's really going on!
happy2rv 05/08/20 12:09pm Beginning RVing
RE: Turn on my hot water!

Yes, the water heater should still work on propane even if the electric element is burned out.
happy2rv 05/04/20 07:18pm Travel Trailers
RE: Turn on my hot water!

Not familiar with that brand, but most RVs have a gas water heater switch inside the coach. Some are on the monitoring panel with the gauges for tank level and others are located in a variety of places from the bathroom wall to the living room wall. They will usually either be labeled "Water Heater" or have a picture of a flame like the right side of the control panel referenced below... Not all RV water heaters have electric and those that do may or may not have an inside switch. If they do, they will usually have the gas and electric switches side by side like in the referenced control panel. Some, usually RVs with 30 amp service, will have a toggle switch that will switch between the electric water heater and some other high load appliance like the second air conditioner or microwave. Water heater controls If it does have an electric heating element, regardless of whether there is a switch inside, there is usually a switch inside the outside access panel for the water heater, often tucked away at the bottom left corner back behind all the plumbing, that turns the electric element off at the heater. As already mentioned, whenever the tank is drained that switch at the heater should be turned off to prevent damage to the element. Running the electric element without water in the tank causes a near instant failure of the element. Once you locate the switch(es), if you are running on gas, make sure there is propane in the tank and the tank is on. When you switch the heater on, you should hear the burner try to ignite. If there is air in the gas lines, it may try several times and then go into "lockout" where it simply stops trying. Switching it off and then back on will reset the lockout and try again. If it doesn't light and stay lit after several cycles, you may have other issues.
happy2rv 05/04/20 06:11pm Travel Trailers
RE: Vintage Winnebago Star of the Movie

I don't recall power being a problem. Brakes and suspension was something else though...
happy2rv 05/03/20 09:11pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: New Truck 4x4 or 4x2 ??

I've owned multiple 2 wheel drive trucks of various sizes over the years but never towed anything of consequence with them on a regular basis. Our current RAM that we bought with the thought of towing a trailer is 4x4 with air suspension. I can't recall ever towing in 4WD, but I use 4WD Auto regularly when not towing. Without anything in the bed, 2WD trucks are notorious for losing traction on anything other than dry pavement. Better tires might help. The last 2WD truck I had I carried 100lbs of bagged playground sand in the back end all winter. For towing, the air suspension has been more important to me. It keeps the truck level and provides a comfortable ride...
happy2rv 05/03/20 02:03pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Which TPMS system to buy for truck and trailer?

Good to know. I will have to pay closer attention to my TireMinder but I suspect it is probably the same. I agree, it's a serious failure in design.
happy2rv 05/03/20 01:47pm General RVing Issues
RE: Which TPMS system to buy for truck and trailer?

I did just that ,wired in a 12 volt switch for my repeater, right next to it in my battery compartment of my fifth wheel. Plenty of 12 volt sources there to hook to. I want to turn it off when not in use. My fifth wheel is plugged in 24/7 beside my house . As said before TST seems to be the brand to get. I have been happy with mine ,not sure what else you could ask for on a system. Mine supports more tires then I would ever have. Simple to program, easy installation etc. I noticed one not happy with their website, not sure what more there is to know about TST, but I have never been on their website, so not sure what one needs to know that they don't provide . In a nutshell, the TST 507 monitors as many tires as you could possibly want, it has low pressure warning, high pressure warning, and high temperature warning . I don't know what else there is to want on a TMPS.The only issue I have with the TST system is the very long delay between when the monitor loses contact with a sensor, and when it notifies you that it has lost contact. It takes an hour for the monitor to alarm for signal loss from a sensor. Way too long IMO. Plus if the monitor regains contact, you'd never know that it was running without updating because it will keep showing the last known reading. Conceivably you could lose contact with a sensor for 50 minutes, then regain contact, then lose contact for another 50 minutes. You would, in reality, only be connected to the sensor for maybe 10 minutes in 2 hours. I've never understood why they don't change the notification time to less than what it is. Have you verified that it works that way while in motion? I've wondered that about my TireMinder as posted above. I know that once the trailer stops moving, the sensors stop sending normal periodic updates and as indicated can sometimes go for hours (maybe longer) without indicating a loss of signal. I kind of assumed that if it was getting regular periodic updates, and updates from the other sensors that it would alarm loss of signal much sooner, hopefully within the 4 minute "normal" update period, but I haven't actually tested that and haven't seen anything that tells me how its supposed to work... I can't recall what I was seeing before I put the repeater in other than it "indicated" it was working about 80% of the time and alarmed loss of signal around 20% of the time.
happy2rv 05/03/20 11:45am General RVing Issues
RE: Which TPMS system to buy for truck and trailer?

We have the TireMinder TM55c system for the trailer. This model only supports 5 sensors and a max of 80 PSI, so not appropriate for the OP's needs. They do make models like the TM-77-6, which I believe is very similar, that are appropriate though. TPMS was one of the first must have items for me when we bought the trailer. The TireMinder is the only aftermarket system I'm familiar with, but when it comes time to replace it I will do more research. Overall, I'm happy with it, but there are a few issues, probably common to most, maybe all, of the systems. We did try the system without the repeater. As far as I could tell, it worked about 80% of the time. The other 20% of the time, it would report signal loss. Adding the repeater fixed that problem. We installed the repeater on the A frame near the tongue of the trailer and tied it to the trailer battery. So, here are the the issues I see: Notice I said "As far as I could tell" about the signal loss above. The literature for the TM-77 indicates that the sensors check the tires every 6 seconds, but the system only updates every 4 minutes. As far as I can tell, the system doesn't have any indication of when updates are received. I assume if there is a problem detected, it will update immediately, but I'm not certain of that. If not, 4 minutes could be a long time to wait for notification of a sudden pressure loss.The sensors only transmit, at least regularly, when they detect motion. This conserves battery life. However, we often park the trailer and leave the TM display/receiver in the truck. Some time later we will take the truck to do sight seeing or errands and at some random interval, sometimes hours later, the display will wake up and alarm with loss of signal.Turning the display on and off is kind of quirky and not intuitive. Now the good things: Never had a problem with loss of pressure around the screw on sensorsIt's nice to have the temperature of the wheelI like that the display has it's own internal battery and I can put it wherever I want without having to worry about wires. Battery life is excellent as well.
happy2rv 05/03/20 08:24am General RVing Issues
RE: Vintage Winnebago Star of the Movie

I believe that was before the P Series chassis. My family had a 1970 Winnebago when I was growing up. I believe it was an Indian, 23' maybe. It was on a Dodge chassis. The first time I watched the movie RV, I knew where many of the gags in the movie came from. Not as common in modern RVs, but just a few years ago... From my earliest memories, the Winnebago had no working parking brake and putting the transmission in park really just put it in neutral. If I recall correctly, the parking "brake" shoes were separate brake shoes that engaged the drive shaft, so you can imagine how effective they were just based on the size. I usually had the duty of jumping out and chocking the wheels when we parked so it didn't roll away... Dad always said he had the transmission fixed multiple times and it always failed quickly. In the later years we owned it, the master cylinder leaked and you had to top it off and pump up the brakes before driving it. Then there were the poorly designed exhaust manifolds that always cracked. Not to mention I'm pretty sure it was severely overloaded before you put gas in the tank. There were a lot of things to hate in that motor home, but I didn't know any different back then. Not sure if there were "better" alternatives at the time. But we loved that RV. We traveled all over the country in it sometimes tying it together with literal bailing wire (or coat hangers) and duct tape to make it back home. Ah, those were the days ;).
happy2rv 05/03/20 07:36am Class A Motorhomes
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