Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Search
Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  



Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'jshupe' found 47 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 3  
Next
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Portable Smoker Ideas??

+1 Green Mountain Davy Crockett We were traveling with a group a while back, someone had one, and everyone else ended up buying them. We also use the pizza oven attachment all the time.
jshupe 11/13/20 08:57pm Camp Cooks and Connoisseurs
RE: 5th wheel adapter for goose neck

Poor penetration! Welder should go hide under the bed after doing that. Haha, well said. These would have failed eventually regardless of the pinbox/hitch in use.
jshupe 10/22/20 03:47pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: 5th wheel adapter for goose neck

You can damage the frame with any hitch/pinbox. I have two broken welds behind my pin box, but I don't blame them on the Goosebox. Poor welding, bad roads, and off road travel are all part of the equation. The Goosebox may not have helped things, but your individual usage has a lot to do with it. There are thousands of people who put tens of thousands of problem-free miles on Gooseboxes, or even gooseneck adapters, without issue. In the process of welding a bunch of guessets and bracing on now. Keeping an eye on your trailer and looking for small changes each time you hook up will go a long way to prevent major damages. Things happen, and I just happened to think the trailer was sitting a hair closer to the bed rails than normal a week ago. Pulled back the trim to find this: https://imgur.com/0MGi9ea.jpg height=600 https://imgur.com/PFXVdmZ.jpg height=600 In this case, Lippert used inverted angle and only welded one leg. I think the angle is too thin, and the welds needed to be on both legs, to survive what I ask of them - regardless of hitch. This was a ticking time bomb even with the stock pin box and TrailerSaver BD3 I ran before. If anything, the Goosebox just made it happen sooner. Damages, often with unknown causes, are a fact of life when you RV. Some things are quick to be blamed, even when they're not the root cause - there are multiple intertwined factors at play.
jshupe 10/22/20 12:22pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: 5th wheel adapter for goose neck

We use a Goosebox. Main reason, is we use the bed to haul water around in bladders when disconnected and need as much space as possible. We do use safety chains, and they marginally increase hookup time. There is a small learning curve to getting the ball right under the connection point - most of the time now, I can get it on the first try. Wasn't always so quick and easy. If my toolbox didn't block the view from the backup camera, it probably wouldn't have ever been an issue. They allow more articulation than a fifth wheel hitch - which is both good and bad. You can easily make contact between the overhang and the bed rails if you aren't careful off-road, but can also use the increased articulation to get further out there. Just something to consider. Not likely to make much difference if you primarily go park to park or stay on pavement. I think that because they allow for more articulation, you are less likely to torque your frame, but as a final note on this, I'm not exactly comfortable with getting the trailer so off camber that this becomes important. Fort Knox Locks makes a great lock that fits over the coupler. I'm not aware of any comparably secure pin locks, but I haven't looked in a while and they may be out there. Another thing to note is that it's a bit more difficult to screw up the hitching process. If it's on the ball, it's on. No improperly closed jaws or high hitching. If you're careful and double check everything, probably not an issue one way or the other. I dropped a trailer once because someone started talking to me during the hitching process and I forgot to check that the jaws were actually locked. A little more difficult to have that happen on a ball - but I wouldn't use this alone as a reason to go this route. I've had probably half a dozen fifth wheel hitches. They all tow a little differently. The difference between a cheap Curt and a TS BD3 is far bigger than the difference between a TS BD3 and a Goosebox - so to answer your towing different question, not really any more significant than the differences between other fifth wheel hitches and pinboxes.
jshupe 10/06/20 11:22am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Wheelbase question

Last truck was a CCSB with 19.5" commercial tires, new truck is CCLB but DRW with the standard LREs. Much prefer the current truck - how much that has to do with the wheelbase, I'm not sure. All that being said, go for a long bed for storage space alone. You can put a standard toolbox in it and still have a lot of usable bed space. We have a 60 gallon aux tank/toolbox combo taking up the front part of the bed. The hitch doesn't have to take up much room either. You can use an easily removable one such as the Andersen or Pullrite SuperLite, or a gooseneck pinbox like the Reese GooseBox. All have naysayers but the majority of people who actually use them, love them. That being said, I'm currently running a GooseBox. 59' end to end.
jshupe 09/22/20 04:38pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Bed rail clearance

It sounds like you have plenty for your use - but YMMV if you ever leave pavement. I have a couple more inches of rail clearance than you, and have hit a couple times on BLM/USFS roads.
jshupe 09/17/20 11:51am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Your Rig

Rig specs in sig. Had it a few years, been working on our ideal build. Full-time going on a year now. https://imgur.com/tQWcL9n.jpg width=640 WY - a few weeks ago, typical setup. https://imgur.com/Uc3qtvw.jpg width=640 UT - up on the mountain during the snow last week. We're still here, but I don't have a drone photo. Not a whole lot of interior shots in this thread, but we love the way some of our changes came out, so have a look. Taken while at a park in SD. https://imgur.com/PmrmXQb.jpg width=640 https://imgur.com/dkQ0L6l.jpg width=640
jshupe 09/14/20 03:21pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: replacement air conditioner

Chewydog, There are 48 volt dc air conditioners. Some are mini splits. There are two importers (as of a year or so ago) of these units in the US - I really, really wanted to go this route as I have a 48V system. For the OP, unfortunately neither import cassette units but one could probably be imported via Alibaba/Ebay or a similar source. But that brings me to my second point - because I wanted these units but couldn't find reviews on them, I went on Instagram to do hashtag searches and PM'd users who had installed them. The overwhelming majority of responses I received were to "stay away" because they seemingly all had issues. Just relaying the word of warning. I went with a LG 240V multi-split, so that I can get parts if needed and because they had the most efficient condenser unit in the class. With the same 30K of advertised capacity as my rig came with, these cool and heat much better, and use a third of the energy in day over day comparisons. It's still possible to see them pull a combined 2.5kW at times (heating), but they do so for much shorter periods and typical draw is closer to 700W per 15K indoor unit, when running on high cool or less than half that once the room is close to the desired temp.
jshupe 09/14/20 09:34am Travel Trailers
RE: replacement air conditioner

Hi, I vote for the 240 volt inverter. Mini-Splits are the bomb! Here is a 115 volt Mini Split. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Pioneer-Low-Ambient-12-000-BTU-1-Ton-20-SEER-Ductless-Mini-Split-Wall-Mounted-Inverter-Air-Conditioner-with-Heat-Pump-110-120V-WYT012ALFI19RL/314096172 120v: https://www.amazon.com/WYS012-17-Air-Conditioner-Inverter-Ductless/dp/B01DVW6G06 Both of those are wall units - the OP is specifically requesting a cassette unit, which only comes in 240V as far as I've seen.
jshupe 09/14/20 07:29am Travel Trailers
RE: replacement air conditioner

The biggest problem I see using a 12v to 220 inverter would be when I'm using a generator or plugged into 120v. The converter would have to charge the batteries at a rate the inverter is pulling from the battery. Doesn’t sound like a good idea. Is the best thing to get an inverter charger with auto transfer with an attached autotransformer. Is there an all in one unit that can give me split phase 240 and 120, auto transfer and charge? I know I’m asking a lot for a single unit to do, but would make my life simpler. The best solution, at least in Victron world, would be a single MultiPlus or Quattro and an Autotransformer - assuming you have a 30A rig. If you have a 50A rig, you have the option of a 240V MultiPlus or Quattro with an Autotransformer to handle your 120V loads, or a pair of 120V MultiPlus/Quattros and an Autotransformer would only be necessary if you want to be able to run your air conditioner on any input source without inverting and charge using the full capacity of the inverter/chargers. Magnum makes a MSH3012RV that you'll probably run across, but I'm pretty sure both legs are in phase with one another, so it won't actually produce the 240V you are looking for. And there would be a host of other issues you'd have to work through with it.
jshupe 09/13/20 10:55pm Travel Trailers
RE: replacement air conditioner

I would go with a 240 volt sine wave inverter dedicated to the mini. I like separate components but get a combo unit for the 120v if you must. Yes Victron makes inverters that can be connected to make 240/120 split phase service. I think in the end this would make it more complex. Yes, Victron makes inverters that can be stacked to make 240V split phase. They still recommend an Autotransformer on the output side to load balance 120V loads across both inverters (though most RV installs seem to skip this - I don't recommend doing so) and if they are stacked, then if you plug into single phase service the second inverter will reject the input because it isn't out of phase and thus, only one inverter will be used for charging. If you run ESS, then both inverters will reject the input. To work around this they make - guess what - an Autotransformer. In the end, the best solution for the user here (assuming the rig is 30A) is probably a single Victron inverter and an autotransformer in the role I initially explained. Everything else is over-complicating things for no benefit. The Autotransformer consists of a couple windings and a breaker. Not much to go wrong with one and the MTBF is >100 years.
jshupe 09/13/20 10:50pm Travel Trailers
RE: replacement air conditioner

I’m a little confused on what a victron auto transformer does. Does it only turn 120 into split phase 240 or does it also turn 12v into 240. Would I need a inverter to feed the auto transformer? If so it sounds like a lot of efficiency loss. Thank you First, the Autotransformer only deals with AC current. So yes, you will need an inverter - ideally for your whole rig. Second, autotransformers are incredibly efficient - in the high 90s, up to 99%. You will find the overall system, with a quality inverter, far more efficient than the rooftop unit you are looking to replace. Finally, it's by far the cleanest solution as it will allow you to run a 240V AC unit both disconnected, and when plugged in to single phase 120V electrical sources, directly from the source rather than always using your inverter.
jshupe 09/13/20 07:24pm Travel Trailers
RE: replacement air conditioner

In your case, I would use a Victron Autotransformer. You can wire them to step up 120V input to 240V split phase. If wired inline after the load center and before the disconnect box, it will be used regardless of the power source. It also will have its own secondary breaker. No need to bother with a separate inverter, as long as your primary inverter has sufficient capacity.
jshupe 09/13/20 06:20pm Travel Trailers
RE: Thought on suspension equalizers

I upgraded from the Lippert Equa-Flex to MORryde SRE4000 with X-factor crossmembers. This trailer always had an equalizer, but the change in models made a huge difference - not all of them are created equal.
jshupe 09/10/20 09:42pm Travel Trailers
RE: Requesting your thoughts on Montana Super Solarflex system

So, I talked to the Super Solar designer today and learned a few more details; for those who may be interested in this solution... -the AC units are not just a soft start added. They draw 9 amps when running, so much more efficient than normal roof top units -they are now adding 300 watt panels for a total of 1200 watts (noted earlier) -they will be upgrading the MPPT charge controllers to dual 40 amp models -there is a panel to remove to add another 500ah of lithium; this could be other manufacturers as long as the charge profile matched -they are working on a drop in package from Keystone with dual DragonFly GC3 batteries for those who want a turn key 510ah upgrade to a total of 1020ah -the design goal was that this would serve to run the entire coach and in many conditions would fully charge the batteries each day -for those who may think their usage may tax or exceed the design, they do have the upgrade path as above, but also are suggesting that a portable generator could be used. For example, in situations where a solar only solution would be taxed, such as cloud, forest, etc, then even a larger system may not be enough. Of course, one could just keep overbuilding with more panels and battery storage to account for worst case scenario... or carry a small 2000w generator to charge the batteries for those times I do hope this information is helpful for those considering this solution. We placed our order including the Super Solar Flex and will be trying it out later this year. I will update all once we are able to test it. Brad Coleman Mach only makes one large unit that pulls 9A, the Mach 3 PS. It's a 13,500 BTU/ 12.5 EER unit that draws 9 to 11A when cooling. Datasheet here. Assuming you require two of them to cool your rig, that doesn't change the math all that much. In the heat of the day, with near perfect solar, you would at best break even on the AC alone (over the course of an hour) with 1200W of panels if running only one unit full out, or two on a 50% compressor cycle. It doesn't matter how efficient they are - they're not efficient enough to make the numbers work for running the AC any length of time with that amount of panels. Assuming you're pulling 9A or 1075W as the datasheet says, and either running two units at 50% compressor or one unit full out to cool your rig, you're pulling 1075W, plus inverter losses. The Magnum MSH3012 series datasheet shows an efficiency of around 87% at 1kW (datasheet here, see P44) which means you are pulling at least 1215W just for AC alone. This is another reason why 24V and 48V are great options - you have much lower inverter losses at higher voltages, especially as loads increase (as exampled on the same chart on P44, for the 24V MSH4024M). If you are running nothing but your air conditioning - you can expect to harvest enough energy to run your AC for 4.9 hours. Or if you average a 100W load throughout the day without the AC, 2.9 hours. That's figured with the conventional figure of 5 solar hours * 1200W panels, or 6kW collection per day. Also worth nothing, most 18-20cu ft residential fridges consume 1.6-2.0kWh per day, depending on conditions. If you account for only a 50W base load, and 1.8kWh for a residential fridge, you collect enough solar to run your AC for under 2.5 hours in ideal conditions, not accounting for the inverter losses of the additional loads. This system just doesn't seem like a serious attempt by Keystone to offer solar, in my opinion. Also, 1200W of panels will collect around 500AH per day on a 12V system. Doubling your batteries to 1020AH gives you a rainy day, but your panels alone will not be sufficient to fill them back up. What that buys you is the ability to decide when to run your generator, or wait until you get home to plug in if you're only vacationing. If you go into it with the appropriate expectations, then I'm sure you'll enjoy it. I just think saying it will "run the entire coach" is a big stretch as most people will buy it expecting to actually be able to run the AC, especially with all the marketing they push about soft starts and high efficiency units. That's going to leave many people sorely disappointed. You wouldn't be able to run the AC all day, with off the shelf components, for $20K -- but you could get a lot closer than what they're providing you assuming you do the install yourself. -- We rarely run our generator, by the way - even in cloudy or shaded conditions. 15 hours this year, including an hour each month for maintenance and a few hours for testing when we had some issues with it. With an adequately sized system, you can avoid them for the most part.
jshupe 08/27/20 10:38pm Tech Issues
RE: Requesting your thoughts on Montana Super Solarflex system

Maybe... but I feel like they should market it for what it is. A system that will run most of the systems, most days, but clearly state what the limits are. People are going to buy it, not knowing what they are getting into. I know of at least a couple people in the fulltime community who do installs like mine either on the side, or as a full-time job now. You could probably have it installed at a rally (well, not with COVID...) for fairly cheap. Almost everybody serious about this seems to go Victron. I've seen two Magnum installs at over 2kW of solar, and both were because they already owned the inverters.
jshupe 08/25/20 10:34pm Tech Issues
RE: Requesting your thoughts on Montana Super Solarflex system

Ok, now that makes sense. You've really given a lot of great information here! Interesting how Victron seems to have been long known in the marine world, but now more popular in RV as well. I really didn't see much info on them 3 years ago when doing my last RV. And, your panels and batteries are names I've not seen before either. Thanks again! Brad There are a lot more options once you look at higher voltages. 24 and 48V are the common residential, commercial, and industrial voltages. REC and SimpliPhi don't really try to compete in the niche 12V market - and in that market, your choices are limited.
jshupe 08/25/20 07:58pm Tech Issues
RE: Requesting your thoughts on Montana Super Solarflex system

BTW, this video seems to be the most thorough I can find so far... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m9RD4qmud0s There is a section in there about the power management... I think it will help in other situations besides just straight battery power; examples could be 30amp and want to run both ACs, or AC+microwave. Or, 15amp power and want to run 1 AC... Brad I forgot to mention, the Victron inverters already do that. No need for something extra. They actually have a few different ways to configure it. Check out their PowerAssist and ESS documentation. Ok, so does that mean you have eliminated the factory charger/converter? But, I'm still not sure I get it... with the precision power management, it is replacing the entire output side of the power grid independently of any of the input sources. I think that it so that it can monitor all of the inputs by being in the middle? How would 1 or both of the Victron's monitor all of the outputs from all of the possible inputs? (trying to wrap my head around it...) Brad Correct - my 48V Victron inverters have chargers as well, to charge the 48V bank. Then I have Victron Orion DC-DC converters charging my 12V battery, and supplying up to 60A of 12V load on their own. Or you could just go all 12V for a smaller system and eliminate the separate systems. The factory 12V converter is gone. Everything passes through the Victron inverters. They are your power management. They have AC inputs (for shore power, generator, etc) and outputs for your loads. In a 50A configuration, you have two legs, each inverter physically handles one leg. If you use an autotransformer it gets a little complicated, but effectively it load balances the loads equally across both inverters, regardless of which leg the load is on. If you have a 32A load and have shore power capped at 24A, for instance, the Victrons will supply the additional 8A via inverter/battery. Not mine, but a nice schematic I found on another forum. https://community.victronenergy.com/storage/attachments/6787-rv-inverter-design-end-state-victron-lifepo4-dual.jpg Note that the diagram has an autotransformer, but that is used to step up the generator from 120V to split phase 240V, and not to load balance, in this specific diagram. That's what my second unit does.
jshupe 08/25/20 07:41pm Tech Issues
RE: Requesting your thoughts on Montana Super Solarflex system

BTW, this video seems to be the most thorough I can find so far... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m9RD4qmud0s There is a section in there about the power management... I think it will help in other situations besides just straight battery power; examples could be 30amp and want to run both ACs, or AC+microwave. Or, 15amp power and want to run 1 AC... Brad I forgot to mention, the Victron inverters already do that. No need for anything extra. They actually have a few different ways to configure it. Check out their PowerAssist and ESS (not usually recommended for mobile applications, but it's great) documentation. There are lots of things they do, that you won't find in with the 3kW Magnum.
jshupe 08/25/20 07:18pm Tech Issues
RE: Requesting your thoughts on Montana Super Solarflex system

Thanks jshupe! Do you have an estimate on the man hours to install? Thanks, Brad I took my time and installed everything over a weekend - working probably 12-16 hours each day. It could have been done faster but I spent a lot of time on the details and crimped all my own cables, etc. I'll grant you professional installation - say 30 hours at $100/hr - wouldn't be unreasonable.
jshupe 08/25/20 05:52pm Tech Issues
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 3  
Next


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:




© 2020 CWI, Inc. © 2020 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved.