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 > Your search for posts made by 'laknox' found 65 matches.

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RE: Awing repair

Thanks for the info! Have passed it on. Lyle
laknox 10/25/22 12:04pm Travel Trailers
Awing repair

Daughter and son-in-law picked up a really nice, and well cared for, 1995 Nash 22H travel trailer from my sister-in-law. The awning was replaced about 2 years ago, but was never used until this year. Nick (son-in-law) was maneuvering it and managed to scrape a tree branch and put a couple small holes in the awning, near the front edge. I see a lot of different repair products, but wanted to get opinions from others who may have used one of them. Both good and bad. Thanks, Lyle
laknox 10/11/22 12:48pm Travel Trailers
RE: Yuma

Guys, we're not talking Quartzsite. There's a lot of water in Yuma via that little ditch called the Colorado River, and I've been through there enough to know that most of the older RV parks have mature landscaping. I'm just looking for some nicer places for a couple nights that has at least =some= shade. Lyle
laknox 05/11/22 09:12am RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
Yuma

Heading to San Diego for a few nights at Campland in late June. DW has a good friend who lives in Yuma and we were thinking of stopping to see her. Wanted to get recommendations for a place to stay for 1-2 nights, preferably on the AZ side and that has lots of shade. Also, places to =avoid=, too! TIA, Lyle
laknox 05/10/22 11:10am RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
RE: Fresh water dump inside help

Go to Home depot and at the order desk order a 50 foot roll of 2 inch pool drain hose. Hose Once your order is complete go into the store and buy: A 64 qt plastic storage container. This is your funnel. Container Some threaded ABS fittings. Link 1 and Link 2 A tube of caulking If needed go to Harbor Freight and buy a hole saw kit. Hole Saw Very carefully drill a 2 inch hole in the end of the container near the bottom. If you press too hard the container might crack. Use a boatload of caulking and screw the two fittings through the hole in the container. Now let the caulking dry for a couple of days while you're waiting for the drain hose to arrive. For use: Place the storage crate under the drain on the trailer. Attach the drain hose to the fitting using the included hose clamps. If the hose will not fit over the fitting you might have to buy a short piece or 2 inch pipe and glue it into the fitting. Then attach the Pool drain hose to the fitting. Pipe and some PVC glue PVC glue When finished disconnect the hose and hang it from a tree or something outside to drain dry. Then roll and store the hose. Put the storage container in a corner somewhere. Exactly what I was thinking. Cheap tub to catch the water and add a hose to drain it. Lyle
laknox 05/05/22 10:12am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Slide design by Grand Design

laknox, the post directly above yours has a link to a video that shows how to adjust the valves in this model RV to re-order the slides As I said, I was posting without reading. Personally, I think it's just another cheap-out on the mfrs' parts instead of having separate valves and switches. Lyle
laknox 04/25/22 09:05am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Slide design by Grand Design

OK, posting without reading to the end. My experience with sequential hydraulics is that there is often a control valve that may, or may not, be adjustable. Basically, it provides resistance to the oil flow so the the first cylinder you want to cycle has to complete its stroke, then pressure will build enough to override the sequencing valve, allowing the next cylinder to cycle. I don't know enough about these systems to know if they even =have= sequencing valves or it's just "free flow" to all cylinders at once and when one set hits the stops, it allows more flow to the remaining cylinders. I'd talk to a =good= hydraulic shop and see if they have a solution. The =simplest= solution would be to literally put separate valves and controls to each slide. Lyle
laknox 04/24/22 06:35pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: New Outside Stairs

I've come to the conclusion that the Mor Ryde step have become so popular. Because they eliminate the stair box in the building process. THe steps have a debris issue,they block the door way,and cannot be deployed in tight spaces. But overall by eliminating the stair box the units are easier to build. The steps can be a last minute attachement vs. being part of the frame assembly. It allows the door to positioned almost anywhere which creates more floorplan flexibility. It allows similiar floor plans to share more construction techniques. In the end they have become popular not because they are good for the consumer, but because they are good for mass production and the RV builders. I'd pay for the option to have the old-school steps. Lyle
laknox 03/29/22 10:42pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: New Outside Stairs

If your talking about the "Solid Step" I wouldn't have them, RV came with them it would be a deal breaker. They fold inside so any debris, mud, water, snow or ice goes inside. They do make a mat to catch it all inside. Then there's the space issue can't open in parking spaces they hang over to the next spot. Try opening in a storage area with another right next to you, how do you load for travel without taking it from the storage? I'm with Edd505 on this. As long as they all use those idiotic steps, I won't buy a new RV. If an option was offered for folding steps, I'd be interested. I'd =really= like to know how much MorRyde paid the mfrs to =all= change over in < 3 years. Lyle
laknox 03/29/22 10:39pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Generators for 5er

One thing to mention about my cousin's solar setup is that the Nissan Leaf battery was wired for 48 volts and the solar charges at 48 volts. Power is stepped down or up, from there. A =lot= more efficient. IIRC, Michelle had the older kids double-check all Dad's load calcs as part of their "homework". :-) Lyle
laknox 03/08/22 11:05am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Generators for 5er

A generator carried on a rear rack needs substantial reenforcement. Much simpler...and better to bolt a mount to the pin box. The pin box is very sturdy, so no worries about it falling off...unlike the typical rear trailer bumper. If you can live with 1 Air/Con at a time, something in the 3000-4500w range is ideal. If you are careful, the 4500w unit likely can accomodate 2 air/con units but you will need the right adapter and you have to limit the other stuff you run. Yes, in theory you can use solar battery but by the time you build a system that can let you run air/con any reasonable amount of time, it's a whole lot cheaper and simpler just to get an appropriate generator and pay for the fuel. My cousin and her husband did a bus conversion that's 98% electric. Propane is used for their tankless water heater and they have diesel heaters. They have 8 435W solar panels on the roof and a Nissan Leaf battery for the coach. You can see their build at www.beginningfromthismorning.com. Videos also on YT under the same name. For anyone contemplating solar, check local companies selling used panels. Cousin used all used panels on their bus and they tested all panels with a meter before buying. All tested 430+ watts. Lyle So if you want to buy a system like that: - 8 panels at 435w ~ $3000 PANELS WERE USED AND 3 YEARS AGO FOR ABOUT $2500. THEY DID ALL THE MODS THEMSELVES. - Inverter capable of running everything ~ $1500 VICTRON INVERTER USED; I HAVE NO IDEA OF COST. WATCH THEIR VIDEOS. :-) - Installation ~ $3000 FREE, AS THEY DID ALL WORK ON THE SOLAR, ELECTRICAL/DIGITAL WIRING, PLUMBING, TILING, INTERIOR (WHICH INCLUDED BUILDING ALMOST EVERYTHING), AND A LOT OF OTHER STUFF, THEMSELVES. I can buy a generator and keep it maintained and fueled a lot cheaper than $12,500 (feel free to tweak the numbers but it's a big chunk of cash). THEY ARE FULL-TIMING WITH THEIR 4 KIDS, SO THIS IS THEIR HOUSE, NOT AN RV. WORK SPACE FOR JUAN AND SCHOOL HOUSE FOR MICHELLE AND THE KIDS. So your average RVer who isn't an electritian...you proved my point that it's technically possible but not practical. MICHELLE USED ALL THE BUILDING AS EXERCISES IN MATH AND BASIC ENGINEERING AND DESIGN FOR THEIR SCHOOL WORK. THE 2 OLDERS LEARNED WELDING, BASIC MACHINE WORK, WOODWORKING, PAINTING, TILE INSTALLATION, PLUMBING, ELECTRICAL, ETC. THAT'S ON TOP OF ALL THE AUTOMATION THEY INSTALLED, AND THE KIDS HELPED WITH. Also, that's just shy of 3.5kw of panels and can be expected to produce around 14KWH per day on average. Assuming the air/con pulls 1500w...assuming no other loads, you have around 9 hours of air/con in a 24hour period, so with a massive system, you still aren't independent of the grid/generator. ACTUALLY, IF TEMPS AREN'T > 105F, THE 8 PANELS WILL MAINTAIN EVERYTHING AND STILL CHARGE THE BATTERY. EVEN DRIVING DOWN THE ROAD, THEY'RE PUTTING NEARLY 2000 WATTS OUT. ONLY TIME THEY HAD ISSUES WAS DURING THEIR BUILD WHEN TEMPS WERE > 105F. JUAN ADDED 2 GROUND DEPLOYED PANELS TO KEEP UP. ALSO, ANY TIME THEY'RE ON SHORE POWER, THEY'RE CHARGING. Lyle
laknox 03/08/22 10:55am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Generators for 5er

How often and how long you dry camp is a huge fctor in all of this. A built in Onan is without a doubt the most convenient way to go. LP installation is the siplest way to use a built in. If you want the efficiency of gasoline, than you need to provide a gas tank which adds to the complexity. Portables are fine but will require transport and handling as well as gas can etc.. Portables are not as user friendly vs. the push button convenience of a built in If genset is in truck, than truck will need to stay with RV in order to have power. If truck leaves electricity leaves. With that in mind a portable on a rear rack is doable, but it requires a more complex installation. THere is no simple answer, the correct method is a direct reflection on how you intend to use it. A final decision/method should not be made without seriously investigaing a large solar package. I've seen a number of really nice genbox setups, most of them right here on rv.net. A permanent setup, mounted on the back of a rig, with storage for fuel, fans for cooling and auto-transfer sweitch wired in, just as if you had the genny in the front storage. Lyle
laknox 02/22/22 10:14am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Generators for 5er

A generator carried on a rear rack needs substantial reenforcement. Much simpler...and better to bolt a mount to the pin box. The pin box is very sturdy, so no worries about it falling off...unlike the typical rear trailer bumper. If you can live with 1 Air/Con at a time, something in the 3000-4500w range is ideal. If you are careful, the 4500w unit likely can accomodate 2 air/con units but you will need the right adapter and you have to limit the other stuff you run. Yes, in theory you can use solar battery but by the time you build a system that can let you run air/con any reasonable amount of time, it's a whole lot cheaper and simpler just to get an appropriate generator and pay for the fuel. My cousin and her husband did a bus conversion that's 98% electric. Propane is used for their tankless water heater and they have diesel heaters. They have 8 435W solar panels on the roof and a Nissan Leaf battery for the coach. You can see their build at www.beginningfromthismorning.com. Videos also on YT under the same name. For anyone contemplating solar, check local companies selling used panels. Cousin used all used panels on their bus and they tested all panels with a meter before buying. All tested 430+ watts. Lyle
laknox 02/22/22 10:11am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Possible short ? A/C affecting 12V lights

Glad you found a fairly minor problem and, hopefully, it won't be a problem going forward. Another thing to consider would be adding a Soft Start on the A/C to help reduce the start-up load. Lyle
laknox 02/22/22 09:56am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Fifth Wheel Hitch issue - How to correct?

Instead of band-aiding this, since you have the pucks, why not sell the current Patriot and replace it with a Patriot OEM? Either used or new. Most B&W hitches in good condition sell for 50%, or more, of MSRP. Lyle
laknox 02/09/22 01:20pm Fifth-Wheels
RE: Gooseneck Extenders

We have a gooseneck extender for our fifthwheel as we have needed for pulling other gooseneck trailers that we don’t have anymore. We have a 2018 39’ Jayco North Point and pull it with a 2005 3500 Dodge Diesel. The actual Lippert hitch is rusting in the seem and they are replacing but it but will not pay for labor. Anyway, my question is regarding the extender vs a fifthwheel hitch at this point. We have the fold down ball and the extender is not very long but I have read negative comments about them. Camping World installs them all the time and has had no problems. It would be a big expense for us to change at this point but if we were going to do it, now would be the time. My husband feels that no longer than the extender is that it is no more likely to cause a problem than a regular fifth wheel hitch. It tows so smoothly you rarely know it’s back there. Can anyone give me a really good reason not to reinstall the extender when they replace the hitch? I am very disappointed in Lippert. This unit is not very old and has been used very little. I’m not having luck posting a picture. Unless you have a very light weight FW, as the others have said, DON'T. Almost all mfrs will void the warranty if you do add a GN adapter. Camping World sells them because they know that, if something happens, they run a good chance of getting to "fix" the problems, which warranty won't cover, but the owner will pay for. All about the $$$! The GooseBox is a good alternative, as LCI will warrant its use on most, but not all, their frames. Personally, I went with the B&W Turnover Ball and Companion, and couldn't be happier. Since you already have the folding GN ball (I had one and hated it), you =could= use an Andersen Ultimate FW hitch that pins to the GN ball (check out their site for how this works). You =will= need to put safety chains on your FW, as the Andersen is considered a ball hitch, like a GN, in many states. Lyle
laknox 02/07/22 10:21am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Need help narrowing down 5th wheel

Once the truck and/or trailer leaves the scene, they have no way to prove the payload rating was exceeded. And yes, the law requires proof, speculation doesn’t work. You can however prove failure to stop in time. That is were the lawyer is going, somewhere he can win. So you have to ask yourself, why would they try and prove you exceeded your payload rating when all they got to do to win their case is prove you failed to stop in time. Much in the same way. Experienced RV'ers can spot a combo that is likely over its ratings. An experience truck chasing lawyer (the guys running the commercials) can spot a combo that is likely over its manufacturer's ratings. Once it's determined you were over your ratings,even if you are within those sacred axle ratings. There is an amount of negligence involved. The lawyer will push the idea that you were unsafe the moment you left the driveway. You chose to exceed the manufacturers ratings and were involved in an accident.It becomes an easy case to sell. The thought that once the truck and trailer leaves the seen no one will ever know is really silly. In today's world I trust there will be lots of pictures maybe even canera footage...LOL Frankly, not real hard to do. Wrecked truck is a 250/2500. Wrecked trailer is a triple-axle TH with a placard that gives the mfr, model # and, likely, the GVW. No-brainer that the trailer was =way= too big for the TV. As others have said, civil "proof" and criminal "proof" are way different. How many criminal cases where the defendant gets off but then gets hammered in a civil trial? Lots! Lyle
laknox 02/07/22 10:13am Fifth-Wheels
RE: What is the dumbest things about your fifth wheel?

Lights with no wall switches. How is a vertically challenged person, like a 4 y.o., supposed to be able to turn on a light if she needs to go potty in the middle of the night? Lyle
laknox 02/07/22 09:26am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Need help narrowing down 5th wheel

I want to stick with a srw. As of right now im leaning towards a grand design reflection or a KZ durango either used or new. Since my trucks is going to be a short bed what 5 wheel hitch do yall recommend, also slider or non slider? If you already have the RAM, realize that it has the shortest bed of the Big 3, so you =may= need a slider. My '02 D'max will NOT hit my cab turning R or L at full lock. Even my old, square-front Komfort, wouldn't hit. Having 4x4 probably does affect my turning radius. That being said, ALL will hit in reverse; a slider just gives you more time before you DO hit. Ask me how I know. :-/ Lyle
laknox 02/04/22 08:51am Fifth-Wheels
RE: Need help narrowing down 5th wheel

Ken, the maximum payload capacity will be from about 3800lbs to 4000lbs. It will most likely be at 3900lbs from the videos I've seen with people with the same trim level. The 5wh GVWRs I've been looking at have been no more than 11500lbs therefore, having a max pin weight of 2300lbs (using the 20% rule). So I would have around 1600lbs not including passengers, extra cargo, 5wh hitch etc. Yes, I agree we only plan to have 3 to 6 people when using our camper but the capacity of 8 would only be a just in case situation. Victor If that's the case, then I'd look at rigs that comfortably sleep 6 but have open floor space where a blow up mattress(es) could be laid out in a pinch. Lyle
laknox 02/04/22 08:47am Fifth-Wheels
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