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 > Your search for posts made by 'larry cad' found 125 matches.

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RE: Looks like electric trucks and RVs may be delayed...

For those of you who DO NOT live in the Youngstown Ohio area (i.e. Lordstown Ohio), virtually every project that comes into this area promising great things including lots of jobs, and lots of money turns out to be a scam. The "Promiser" ends of rich and invisible! Ask anyone in this area. The list of "snake oil" salesmen is long in Youngstown Ohio. Lordstown Motors is just another example. Wealthy CEO and Finance VP have both resigned and are now invisible. Panic has taken over. Don't hold your breath.
larry cad 06/21/21 04:36am General RVing Issues
RE: Generator/Inverter Mounted over Propane Tanks??

Propane for a generator burns up very quickly. Problem? Yep! You can't carry a spare can of propane so be prepared to drag up, and drive around until you can find a propane dealer to refill the cylinder. (frequently)
larry cad 06/21/21 04:28am Travel Trailers
RE: Lexington KY to Dayton Ohio

I-75 thru Cincinnati has been completely repaired and when I came thru there in late April was very smooth.
larry cad 06/21/21 04:18am Roads and Routes
RE: No power to Start 4K Generator in Fleetwood Terra 31C ClassA

Are you batteries all dead? You probably have two battery banks, one for starting the engine, and one for supplying the DC power to your coach accessories. It is possible that the bank which starts your generator is dead. However, typically, the coach manufacturer supplies a switch on your dash to connect the other battery bank to the generator for starting purposes. I is labeled different names by different manufacturers, but look for something labeled, "EMERGENY START" or something like that. It is a momentary switch, so push and hold while attempting to start.
larry cad 06/21/21 04:13am Tech Issues
RE: Aqua Hot & Residential vs. non-R - seeking Info, Dinette too

Residential refrigerators solve the many problems in propane types. Propane types are slow to cool, and have difficulty keeping cool in very hot weather. Also, propane types demand you keep the frig level when parked. If you read enough posts, you will read about many "fixes" to attempt to correct these faults. Residential frig does not have these faults and work in an RV the same as they do at home, and do not use any more energy. RV refrigerators are primarily Ammonia Absorption cycle, not LP. LP is used to power the cycle in the form of heat. So is 12v power. When it comes to actual energy consumption (power used to cool) the Absorption systems are way more efficient than compressor based residential units. But the trend is now to go toward safer technologies for RV's like residential refrigerators with inverters, and large battery banks. The OP referred to his current frig as "my current fridge is elec/propane." I was using his reference to what powers the frig, rather than what circulates inside the cooling tubes, to avoid confusion. I suppose I could have referred to a "ammonia/electron" frig. Wait, NO, that would be wrong too.
larry cad 06/21/21 04:08am Tech Issues
RE: Monitor panel inverted

Can't help you, but this is an ideal opportunity to see if Tiffin still provides good customer service after the buyout. Call the factory and get tech support to see if they can help you.
larry cad 06/20/21 05:06am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Aqua Hot & Residential vs. non-R - seeking Info, Dinette too

Aqua Hot is a system, typically used in diesel RVs, that does 2 things, first, it uses diesel fuel to heat a circulating fluid around the coach to various radiators in the coach. Fans on the radiators blow warm air into the rooms, providing heat during cold weather. In addition, the Aqua Hot is used to heat fresh water, in place of a traditional water heater. This feature provides you with almost unlimited hot water. It would be near impossible to install such a system after market due to the elaborate plumbing involved. Residential refrigerators solve the many problems in propane types. Propane types are slow to cool, and have difficulty keeping cool in very hot weather. Also, propane types demand you keep the frig level when parked. If you read enough posts, you will read about many "fixes" to attempt to correct these faults. Residential frig does not have these faults and work in an RV the same as they do at home, and do not use any more energy. A few years back, one maker, Norcold, had a design problem in their propane frig that allowed the propane flame to start fires in the coach, causing a number of RVs to burn to the ground. That single possibility is enough to cause me to switch to a residential. No flame! Finally, if you want more room, you will need a bigger RV. 45ft diesels are very roomy as are the really large 5th wheels.
larry cad 06/20/21 05:03am Tech Issues
RE: Anyone using a Curt Echo brake controller?

Product Expert Kathleen M Is this right for you? Product Expert Kathleen M says: Yes, if you: Alternate towing vehicles or trailers - plug-and-play design makes this very versatile Are unable or unwilling to make changes to your tow vehicle's wiring/interior Have a BMW, Land Rover, Volvo, or other vehicle with multiplex wiring No, if you: Are towing a trailer with an RV or similar vehicle - your phone must be less than 50' from the controller or they won't connect Would get annoyed using a mobile app to operate the controller, especially if you use your phone for maps or music while towing Haul a trailer with more than 2 axles Found this. could help The Echo does not require you to have a phone connected in order to operate properly. Turn your phone off, or use it for other things and the Echo works fine. You can use the phone to program sensitivity and brake strength, but after that it is not necessary. I leave my phone on to the Echo app so I can monitor brake activity, but don't have to.
larry cad 06/20/21 04:44am Towing
RE: Anyone using a Curt Echo brake controller?

I got one last year, and love it! I have a 20' trailer with electric brakes, and wanted to be able to move it with my Jeep GC which had the right plug, but no trailer controller. I got the Echo, and it works great, particularly regarding the trailer brakes. I can monitor brake operation on my Iphone, and control the amount of braking with it also. Saved me from having to wire in a controller and I can use it with any other vehicle I may have to use.
larry cad 06/19/21 05:28am Towing
RE: Can you buy in one state and register in another

Florida is one of the best places to start. They have very few restriction in place regarding the virus which makes doing things there much easier. Florida also has a number of large RV sales locations which should make it easier to find the fifth wheel you want. Since you have internet access, check out Lazydays RV in Tampa Lazydays RV And also General RV near Tampa General RV Tampa Those are two of the largest dealers in the USA. They also have used RVs so maybe check those out also. There are others in Florida but that will give you a start. Regarding the legal requirements for purchasing, call one of the places listed above, or maybe someone living in Florida can comment. Should not be terribly difficult. Welcome to America! Hope you have a wonderful time here.
larry cad 06/19/21 05:10am Full-time RVing
RE: Can I use any 50 amp extension cord?

This is the female I used: https://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/electrical-plumbing-lp-gas/rv-electrical-systems-and-accessories/plugs-connectors/power-grip-replacement_55-5002 Al Good choice, and simple to get hold of. Price is right also.
larry cad 06/18/21 07:35pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Seeking refrigerator tips... in AZ and heat is hampering...

Propane refrigerator MUST be level also.
larry cad 06/18/21 08:11am Tech Issues
RE: Buying an AC online??

Check with PPL Motorhome Parts online. PPL Motorhome parts They usually have good prices, in-stock, and good support in selecting.
larry cad 06/18/21 08:07am General RVing Issues
RE: Can I use any 50 amp extension cord?

Nine in stock here for a population of 30,000 in the entire county. They just made it a little hard to look them up. 14-50R at Home DepotEverybody has those. Not really for making an extension cord. Need to add a J-Box. Which is why I suggested using a NEMA 14-50C rather than a NEMA 14-50R. The "C" version connects directly to the end of the wire without a box. https://i.imgur.com/1IgG3wMl.jpg
larry cad 06/18/21 08:01am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Radio

The black wire on the new radio is the same as the black (negative) wire on the old radio. Hook them together. The Yellow and Red wire on the new radio can both be connected to the red (positive) wire from the old radio harness. The green/white, orange, brown, blue, and pink are not necessary. The rest of the hookup is just speakers. Both the original power wires should be suitable for powering the new radio. The yellow wire on the new radio is to retain your new radio programming, such as which channels you want saved, etc. The red wire is for you to switch the power to the new radio off and on. Since you probably have an off/on switch on the radio, you really don't need another switch so just connect red and yellow together and hook them both to the positive wire from the old harness. If you want to use the red wire to shut down power to the new radio, insert a switch into the wiring. This may save you some battery power when you aren't using the RV. You can also insert the same switch into the yellow wire which will remove all power to the new radio, which may also cause it to lose memory but will save battery power when not in use.
larry cad 06/16/21 05:56am Tech Issues
RE: Radio

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larry cad 06/16/21 05:55am Tech Issues
RE: Radio

The black wire on the new radio is the same as the negative wire on the old radio. Hook them together. The Yellow and Red wire on the new radio can both be connected to the positive wire from the old radio harness. The green, orange, brown, blue, and pink are not necessary. The rest of the hookup is just speakers. Both the original power wires should be suitable for powering the new radio. The yellow wire on the new radio is to retain your new radio programming, such as which channels you want saved, etc. The red wire is for you to switch the power to the new radio off and on. Since you probably have an off/on switch on the radio, you really don't need another switch so just connect red and yellow together and hook them both to the positive wire from the old harness. If you want to use the red wire to shut down power to the new radio, insert a switch into the wiring. This may save you some battery power when you aren't using the RV. You can also insert the same switch into the yellow wire which will remove all power to the new radio, which may also cause it to lose memory but will save battery power when not in use.
larry cad 06/16/21 05:50am Tech Issues
RE: Looking for a ground wire

Ground is ground. 2 amps is not a concern, but higher amperage might burn out the little tiny thermostat wire, not a concern here. Ground is ground, so if ground is issue with your pwm then any ground will be an issue. The steel camper frame is ground also, the entire frame of the camper is ground, all the ground wires are ground, they are all connected to the frame and to the negative post on the battery, ground is common to everything. The only concern, as stated, is how much amperage will be flowing through your chosen ground wire. I dont think there would be concern with your thermo wire, but try it, if it works then it works, job done. Ground WIRE is not always "ground". Yes it is! That would be a blatant disregard of proper electrical wiring and a violation on NEC rules. Can you please list the specific "NEC rule" that would be violated? 120V ground wires must terminate in the 120V breaker box on the ground buss. Yes, the ground buss must be bonded to to trailer frame but the 120V wiring has the potential for 120V currents which can cause voltage potentials on any of the ground wires that can cause issues like GFCIs false tripping or even higher voltage potential than 12V on your 12V system. Gibberish! Voltage and Potential are the exact same thing. Voltage is potential. The remainder of your comment makes no sense. 120V systems ground WIRE and 12V systems ground WIRE should never be exchanged or substituted or mixed. We are back to "ground IS ground" I would also not recommend using the furnace T stat wires for 12V ground as the "ground" you find there goes through the furnace control board and will no longer be at ground potential when the T stat calls for heat. Wrong Since there is no real 12V ground available OP will need to get creative on pulling an extra wire for the ground. If the location is close to wall trim you might be able to remove the trim carefully and carve out or drill a hole to thread the wire through the wall stud. Check at floor level to see if you can fish a wire from the floor up. Often you can drill holes just large enough to thread the wire but not too big to cause major damage that can't be hidden with some trim. This is the closest you came to a sensible comment
larry cad 06/16/21 05:35am Tech Issues
RE: New again, remind me

Most new RV's off the assembly line come with little to no quality control. So even the expensive ones with the good reputations are pushing them out the door as fast as they can. That being said, Tiffin and Newmar have a reputation for good customer service and will try and fix what they should have built right, better than most. Keep in mind that both Tiffin and Newmar have been sold and it is yet to be seen if the new ownership will maintain the previous good customer service.
larry cad 06/16/21 05:12am Class A Motorhomes
RE: Can I use any 50 amp extension cord?

Building a 50A RV extension cord can be a bit tricky, mostly because the "receptacle" part is not easy to find.https://www.progressiveindustries.net/14-50r Like I said, not easy to find. Go out to Home Depot, and search for one. Not there. They exist, but you have to look for it.
larry cad 06/15/21 04:23am Class A Motorhomes
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