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 > Your search for posts made by 'memilanuk' found 6 matches.

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RE: Modify top bunk

FIL recently got a little 18' TT to use during the summer months - his big 5'ver stays in storage down @ Lake Havasu. The one he found was a bunk bed model... and he's discovered that after years and years in first a big class A motorhome, and later the big 5th wheel, he's gotten spoiled by not having to watch his head ;) We've been discussing possible mods along similar lines - removing the top bunk entirely, making the top bunk height adjustable, etc. I'd be interested to hear what others might have come up with.
memilanuk 05/04/22 01:35am Travel Trailers
RE: Converting PC laptop to Android tablet

As someone who went sort of the opposite direction for a while (running Linux on a Chromebook for a daily driver, well before it was officially supported), I can certainly appreciate this sort of project for the geeky personal gratification factor... I still think you'd be way, way ahead in terms of time if you just go get them a new Android tablet or possibly a Chromebook. I'm guessing if you managed to make it as far as installing and booting a foreign OS on PC hardware, you've got a reasonable familiarity with making things work. Kudos for you. I just question whether it's worth the effort.
memilanuk 04/20/22 10:06am Technology Corner
RE: Solar Panel Mounts

For me, it was a matter of having the rubber flange on the wrong side of the bracket (strut). I thought I could have it on the top side, and still be able to draw it down tight. When I did, it pulled the whole thing right through the hole. Discarded that well nut, grabbed a new one, put it so that the flange was directly on top of the roof, with the strut channel on top of that, added washers, inserted the bolt, and snugged it down. Adding to the level of 'fun' was that I'd already put a bunch of Dicor around the flange / under the strut, so it was pretty messy the second time around. Took some doin' to get everything cleaned up. That said, there's a point where the bolt head draws down flush, and then where it begins to snug up... which is usually the sign to *STOP TIGHTENING*. There really isn't a hard 'stop' feeling like with a metal-on-metal fastener... so I guess if you just kept turning and turning waiting for it to get tight and stop, yeah, you'd pull the threaded insert right out.
memilanuk 04/16/22 10:01pm Truck Campers
RE: Solar Panel Mounts

I tried well nuts for my solar panel mount (using Z mounts). They pulled right out. Well, 17 years later it's obviously too late to argue about how exactly you did the install... but in my limited experience (putting several of them in last fall/winter), on the first attempt (or two) they *did* pull 'right out'. Turned out it was a mistake on *my* part, and when I went back and did it correctly, they held very solidly. The metal version aka 'riv-nuts' should work at least as well, with the slight difference of not being inherently water-tight. Since most people are going to cover everything in sight with some kind of sealant, it's debatable whether that's worth it or whether it's better to go with some thing that is mechanically stronger like you did. Either way works.
memilanuk 04/15/22 02:33pm Truck Campers
RE: Solar Panel Mounts

With the thin luan on the top of my RV it seems picking the best screw can be challenging. Look up 'well nuts'. There is a rubber sleeve with a flange on it, and a metal (brass) insert. You drill a hole big enough for the sleeve to slip into, so it stops on the flange. Then when you screw the bolt in, the threaded insert pulls it towards the head, mushrooming the rubber body and sandwiching the thin wall material (luan, in your case) between the flange and the mushroom. Think of it like a rubber rivet. Other uses include attaching glass windshields to motorcycles, or providing attachment points on the sides of water craft. They provide a fairly water-resistant connection to begin with, and when utilized underneath a mounting bracket or rail and then covered with additional sealant like Dicor or Sikaflex you shouldn't have any issues with UV degradation either. I'd double check with the manufacturer (Arctic Fox) about the actual construction of the roof. Adventurer has their 'TCC' i.e. 'true composite core/construction' equivalent, but even that has aluminum frame members, and weirdly enough, three additional random wood cross members. That's in addition to the cheap/light white pine stuff they put around the roof openings for screw holding. I'd be shocked if AF doesn't have *some* kind of structural cross members in the roof.
memilanuk 04/12/22 11:39am Truck Campers
RE: Solar Panel Mounts

^ this Another option for roof rails that I used was low-profile aluminum strut 'rail' or channel - also known as 'UniStrut'. Typically used for mounting electrical conduit or boxes, it's available slotted, unslotted, in galvanized or zinc-coated steel, etc. I went with the low-pro (13/16" height) aluminum to save weight - but I had to special order them from McMaster-Carr. Even paying exorbitant shipping for four 10 ft sticks, it was less than half what any of the electrical supply houses around town were quoting to order it in for me. The actual connectors (cone nuts, etc.) are commodity items easily sourced at most hardware stores. I contacted the RV manufacturer (Adventurer) and got a print showing the layout of the roof structure. I confirmed using a stud finder, and was able to sink screws into almost all the studs - both the aluminum tube framing, and the few wood members. There were a few that I couldn't because of location - I used well-nuts for those. Pretty sure it's better attached than most setups using z-clips.
memilanuk 04/11/22 08:32pm Truck Campers
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