Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Search
Open Roads Forum Already a member? Login here.   If not, Register Today!  |  Help

Newest  |  Active  |  Popular  |  RVing FAQ Forum Rules  |  Forum Posting Help and Support  |  Contact  



Open Roads Forum  >  Search the Forums

 > Your search for posts made by 'opnspaces' found 182 matches.

Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 10  
Next
  Subject Author Date Posted Forum
RE: Custom challenge coin for Truck company impression

Not sure where this is going. But I do notice that his profile contains a link to maxchallengecoins.com So I suspect this might be an advertisement. I notified the Moderator to let them decide if it's legitimate.
opnspaces 01/20/22 05:24pm Good Sam Insurance
RE: How to remove a "pull-over" couch from '96 Lance 990?

Try removing the fire extinguisher and then the bracket that it's mounted to. Look inside with a flashlight and maybe you'll see something.
opnspaces 01/19/22 06:21pm Truck Campers
RE: INCREASING lpg capacity ?

I just looked online and you're right, they only list the 5 pound cylinder. That's a real shame. My local Costco has had the cylinders for years, even the larger 30 pounders for a while. Maybe they got out of the game, or maybe it's too early in the season. But I would think online would be available year round.
opnspaces 01/19/22 08:28am Class A Motorhomes
RE: INCREASING lpg capacity ?

Are you talking the installed tank in your Class A? Or are you talking about propane cylinders like what powers most of the home barbecue's? All I know about tanks is what I read on this forum. Supposedly there is not date code and they are just inspected for damage then filled. Portable cylinders like for a barbecue or the larger one on the tongues of trailers on the other hand do have a date code and are supposed to be inspected/replaced after a set amount of years. If you need to replace one of these cylinders I think Costco has the best deal. Take the 20 lb barbecue cylinder that Costco sells. Theirs has an actual float gauge that will tell you how much propane is left before you start cooking.
opnspaces 01/18/22 06:37pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Calculated MPG

I'm guilty of recording. And being a computer guy I recorded on a spreadsheet that automatically calculated my MPG and such. I would fill up and write the trip meter mileage down on the receipt and then reset the meter. At home I opened the spreadsheet about once a month and entered the date, miles driven, gallons filled and the cost per gallon and if on a trip a note of where I filled. The spreadsheet did the calculations after that. I remember as a teenager I had a ford ranger that I would track this way. One day the gas gauge just quit. I knew that I could drive 169 miles until empty. Knowing that and being a teenager I drove that truck for years with no working gauge and never ran out of fuel. Here's a small snippet of my spreadsheet. https://i.imgur.com/7EhFkhT.jpg?1 height=300
opnspaces 01/17/22 04:24pm General RVing Issues
RE: 3d printers for making stuff for the RV

I have made numerous items for my tow vehicle but not really for the RV's. I have made a few stereo bezels, a replacement tuner knob, a divider for the pocket in the dash to separate my phone from my readers. I do plan to try to create some corner pieces for my popup roof as they are no longer available. Here's a few items. New stereo in the tow vehicle made the rear audio controls obsolete. So I removed the controls and 3d printed a plate that now holds a USB outlet and an inverter powered 120v outlet. https://i.imgur.com/C82x98L.jpg height=300 https://i.imgur.com/nENBT4D.jpg?1 height=300 The previous owner of my Bronco did a horrible job installing a stereo. So I had to custom print a new bezel to fit the new stereo and cover the hole. https://i.imgur.com/5YwruJx.jpg height=300 https://i.imgur.com/DF5pj5R.jpg?1 height=300 But honestly the one item that I have created most often is "chip clips" to hold my potato chip bags closed. Link
opnspaces 01/15/22 10:17am Tech Issues
RE: [email protected] 400 -- comments by those who've seen it??

It looks interesting. I did see the spec shows 79" interior height. I'm sure that's only at the center, but it is 6' 5" I also found a decent FAQ that lists pitched axle. Axle Pitches Each of our axles are little bit different when it comes to the pitch. These pitches help dictate ground clearance in our trailers. TAB 320 – 10 Up TAB 320 Boondock – 22.5 Down TAB 400 – 10 Down TAB 400 Boondock – 22.5 Down TAG 5W – 0 deg TAG 5W Boondock – 22.5 Down TAG XL – 0 deg TAG XL Boondock – 22.5 Down AVIA – 22.5 Down
opnspaces 01/11/22 06:55pm Travel Trailers
RE: Making A Warmer Truck Camper Bed

I think you will find that the foil face insulation directly under the mattress will still condensate , the moisture comes from you body . Better to put the insulation directly on the cab over floor and then the latttice on the insulation for circulation , then the mattress . Thanks for posting. I do agree with Ticki2 about the condensation but with a twist. I would probably skip the lattice and instead substitute the lattice with three or four pieces of 1 x 2 that run front to back. Then I would sleep with no wood and in the morning lift the mattress and slide the pieces of wood in to vent any moisture all day. Run a long strip of duct tape the entire length of the boards so that there are no splinters or roughness to snag on the bottom of the mattress. Actually the more I think about it the more I wonder if that clammy feeling is an actual problem. I mean what's the difference between the mattress on the wood deck as it was from the factory vs. the mattress on the foam? I guess the wood might absorb some moisture. But that seems minimal at best. Just some thoughts that might work better as opposed to the loss of headroom in the top bunk from the wood being there all night.
opnspaces 01/10/22 09:27am Truck Campers
RE: Good battery for Boondocking Palomino Puma 19RL

If there is room for two batteries on the tongue then you should go with two 6 volts. The 6 volts from Costco or Sams club are they best bang for the buck. They are the same size as the standard 12 volt that trailers come with only they are an inch taller. To use two 6 volt batteries you only need to add one wire about a foot long into what you already have. You can buy this wire pre-made at Walmart or Autozone or any other auto parts store. The 6 volt batteries are true deep cycle batteries that can withstand more uses or cycles of draining then recharging without damage than a standard 12 volt marine "deep cycle" that you can buy at the same parts stores.
opnspaces 01/04/22 04:01pm Travel Trailers
RE: I Winterized ............. but then this happened.

I've had to put on a glove and rub around the seal in my toilet. I never felt any debris, but the seal held after. If you have a really slow leak like it holds water until the next flush you can also just ignore it as when in storage there really is no need for water in the bowl. But before working on the valve I would put a tiny bit of water in the bowl and let it sit for a while to seep down and wet the dry seal before you open the valve.
opnspaces 12/30/21 09:27am Travel Trailers
RE: Replacing Elec brakes

I will second or third or fourth agree with checking or just plain redoing the wiring connections first.
opnspaces 12/30/21 09:02am Tech Issues
RE: Advice on replacing my IOTA battery charger for boondocking

Interesting on the 20%c vs .125c (assuming that correlates to 12.5%c) I won't pretend to understand much of this battery charging. But I've read enough of your posts to think that 20%c is probably taxing on the batteries. If there is truly only 15 minutes charging difference between a 45 and 60 amp unit I'll probably go with the 45 amp. So now my decisions are the PD costs $215 from bestconverters.com It charges at 14.4/13.6/13.2. The PD has the pendant that I can use to force into bulk mode for 4 hours if I want to. The Powermax is $170 (on the Powermax website) It charges a 14.6/13.6/13.2. the Powermax does not have a pendant, but I can manually adjust the output up to 16.5 volts to equalize. This is done at home with a multimeter and a screwdriver which I'm more than capable of. The IOTA with IQ4 is $160 from Bestconverters.com. It looks like the IOTA outputs 14.8/13.6/13.4 I think I'm ruling out the IOTA because if the higher bulk and float levels. I know the PD has a decent following as it works for people. But I'm wondering how much of the higher cost is really goodwill or perceived value and not anything to do with reliability or longevity over any other brand. Does anybody recall or have any thoughts on the reliability of the Powermax line? I don't recall any real negative posts on here so it seems good. But at the same time I don't want to buy the Harbor Freight equivalent of the converter world.
opnspaces 12/28/21 05:53pm Tech Issues
RE: Advice on replacing my IOTA battery charger for boondocking

one last question for any of you who run an inverter generator. Currently my Honda 2000i basically idles when plugged in and charging. I assume this is because the charger is stuck at 13.6 volts. If I go to a PD 45 or a PD 60 amp I'm assuming the generator is going to ramp up a bit and make some noise. Does your 60 amp charger cause the generator to really ramp up and put out some noise? Or does it still stay fairly low in the decibel range? And back to dieseltruckdriver. Yes I agree solar is probably the best way to go, but I'm not there yet on it. Thanks again everybody, I really appreciate the input.
opnspaces 12/27/21 06:01pm Tech Issues
RE: Advice on replacing my IOTA battery charger for boondocking

Thanks Dieseltruckdriver. Yes I'm now leaning toward doing the same thing and adding the pendant in a cabinet.
opnspaces 12/27/21 05:55pm Tech Issues
RE: Advice on replacing my IOTA battery charger for boondocking

How much hands on are you willing to do really? (your 6s must be sulfated from never seeing any 14.x) BTW when the trailer is on shore power, the Iota will be at 13.6 and if the other charger is on the batts too at 14.x, it will be doing all the work. No problem. When the 14.x is stopped, the 13.6 is still there carrying on running the rig 12v. So what converter choices for doing the single stage 14.x: 1. PowerMax LK model in single stage mode (least expensive) 2. PD Li model 1st generation that only does 14.x (expensive) 3. PD standard three stage with CW--does 4 hours at 14.x but you have to make it do that (you said that is too much work) (also expensive) If four hours is not long enough time to get to 100 when back home, hit the CW again for another four hour run. Thanks for the input BFL13 and Gdetrailer, you've both given me some things to think about. As it is I'm sure my existing batteries are severely sulfated and I plan to replace them as a just because in the next week or so. As far as hands on, I was originally thinking about just replacing my existing 13.6 amp charger with a PD in the same location. But as many of you have mentioned I could just add a second deck mount in the front pass through. BFL, When you mention CW I assume you are referring to using the PD pendant to put the charger into bulk mode. I was assuming that once I used the pendant to put the charger in bulk mode I would have to remember to turn it back off again or risk boiling my batteries. I see from reading the manual again the bulk will shut off automatically so the pendant is back on the table so to speak. Gde Yes the batteries are on the tongue and I do have front pass through storage on the trailer so relocating there would be easy. And if I only have to add an outlet with 14 gauge romex that is extremely easy and cheap as I already have everything in my garage. Hmmmmm here's my latest thinking now. I'm thinking about BFL's option #3 with a 60 amp deck mount PD in the front pass through. Yes I know I could make it a portable and put it out on the tongue but don't really want to do that. Since it's a 3 stage I'll probably disable the Iota and just run the PD pendant up into the cabinet next to the bed. Then I can just push the button as needed.
opnspaces 12/27/21 05:53pm Tech Issues
RE: Advice on replacing my IOTA battery charger for boondocking

Thanks everyone for your input on this. It appears to me that the only real difference between the Iota and the PD is the frequency of the equalization mode. The PD will equalize every 21 hours of non use of the battery. The Iota will equalize after every 7 days of non use of the batteries. This fact has me leaning toward the PD as my trailer is rarely plugged into shore power for more than a few days before it gets unplugged and hauled back to storage. I know already that the blinking LED on the pendant would bother me when camping. But I imagine I can just leave it in a cabinet or otherwise out out of site so I don't see the blink. @Pianotuna: I agree that SiO2 batteries would be better suited. But they're still a bit too expensive for me. The 90 percent is what I'm targeting while I'm out camping as I know that the charge time from 90 - 100 can be long. In the past I really didn't mind long generator run times out in the desert. But lately I want to just get enough charge back in so that I have the heater overnight and get back to the quiet. The trailer gets plugged in at home for a day or so to get the batteries up to charge before storage.
opnspaces 12/27/21 10:43am Tech Issues
RE: Advice on replacing my IOTA battery charger for boondocking

Thanks for the replies. So the PD will go in or out of boost mode without me having to monitor the charge current and flip it manually? And Gdetrailer, the relocation of the charger is intriguing. My current load center is near the back of my 30 foot trailer. What would be involved if I was to move the charger up front closer to the batteries? Would I be extending the wires from my shore power cord where it terminates at the load center? I'm assuming since I'm extending 120v AC wiring it would be a smaller gauge than 12v DC wiring of the same distance. Are we talking something like 6awg or is that too thick and 8awg would suffice?
opnspaces 12/27/21 01:20am Tech Issues
Advice on replacing my IOTA battery charger for boondocking

I am looking for advice, or maybe just reassuring confirmation that what I am thinking is sound. I'm looking for a three stage battery charger that I don't have to worry about. I just want to start the generator, plug in the shore power cord, let it run for a few hours and get the batteries back up to 90 percent. I have a 2005 Jayco Jayflight 27BH travel trailer with a IOTA DLS-3045 load center (I have verified that IQ4 is not an option on this unit). I almost exclusively dry camp with two 6volt Costco batteries and a Honda EU2000i generator. I was thinking about replacing my charger with an IOTA DLS-45 with IQ4. Not sure why I'm focusing on IOTA except that it's the same brand as the load center. With the IQ4 it is supposed to be a true 3 stage charger. IOTA DLS-45 My other thought based on years reading this form is something from Progressive Dynamics in the 92xx series. But the 92xx series appears to have a remote pendant that I have to use to put it into bulk mode which I want to avoid. Progressive Dynamics 92xx I am thinking 45 amp so I don't need to upgrade the battery wiring. I have plenty of room behind the load center for a deck mount charger. Solar will probably be a few years off. Two postings I found here that mention exactly what I'm thinking about. Link 1 Link 2 What are your thoughts?
opnspaces 12/26/21 01:33pm Tech Issues
RE: Norcold Fridge Depth?

2112 has an 8 cu ft (N8xx) refrigerator, I have a smaller 6 cu ft (N6xxx) refrigerator. For some reason I have a plethora of empty cardboard tubes and scotch tape right now. So I made up a quick depth gauge by scotch taping a toothpick to a cardboard tube and closed the door. Closing the door pushes the toothpick back along the tube so that the length can be measured when you open the door back up. https://i.imgur.com/3gDVfQn.jpg height=300
opnspaces 12/25/21 10:59am Tech Issues
RE: Water pump help----maybe

I can't check right now but when it worked no matter which switch I activated the other red light also came on. The green light at the control panel switch may, I say MAY, have stayed on all the time. It has a bunch of wires to it. The way I have it now when I turn on the light, power, all 3 lights 2 red and one green at the panel come on. It works fine the way I have it now although not correct. Ground seems to be fine at the pump. I see no kind of controller at the pump. Wires go into a harness and disappear up into who knows where. Maybe the problem is at the green switch. Try checking voltage at each of the multiple wires and see if you get one terminal that has 6 volts when the switch is on. If so then temporarily run 12 volts to that wire and see if the problem goes away.
opnspaces 12/25/21 10:09am Tech Issues
Sort by:    Search within results:
Page of 10  
Next


New posts No new posts
Closed, new posts Closed, no new posts
Moved, new posts Moved, no new posts

Adjust text size:




© 2022 CWI, Inc. © 2022 Good Sam Enterprises, LLC. All Rights Reserved.