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RE: Roadside Assistance Programs
I've had Coach-Net since 2010. I've used them twice to tow the truck/rv combo and once to tow the truck only. In addition, they've come out to replace a blown tire, or one that was about to, 3 times. All it has cost me was my annual premium and the cost necessary to replace the damaged tires. Each time the service guys were quite capable and did things properly. I just don't have anything but good things to say about the service I've received from them; it's been well worth the cost of the premiums. Hope this helps.
My research show comments of folks that have recently had bad results with Coach-Net being responsive or not paying the claim. Who knows......could just be their unusual situation. Apparently the company sold a few years ago, and not operating in the same manner.
It's just that I don't get any better overall opinions for the other companies out there.
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pulpwood007
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09/19/20 05:39pm |
General RVing Issues
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Roadside Assistance Programs
I have purchased Coach-Net for years, but have never really had need to use their assistance. My subscription lapsed and when I went to renew the price had gone up substantially. In addition I read many comments on a deterioration of their service.
In addition, I read many negative comments on Good Sam service.
That leaves FMCA. Priced in the middle and comments no better or worse.
I know there have been many threads on this subject over the years, but since these companies change quality frequently, I'd appreciate any comments or thoughts on which might currently be the best value. Thanks.
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pulpwood007
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09/19/20 11:19am |
General RVing Issues
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RE: Correcting flipped shackles
I too would pull a bolt, flip the shackle and put the bolt back in.
That would be my preference, and particularly since I need to reposition a wet bolt that won't take grease.
Problem is I really don't have large enough jack stands to support the trailer. That concerns me.
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pulpwood007
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09/13/20 12:00pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Correcting flipped shackles
I helped a friend get their shackles un flipped and it helped to jack the trailer back up a little and use bars, like you did. Craig
I have never used a bar. What is the process? That's what my question is.
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pulpwood007
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09/12/20 11:07pm |
Tech Issues
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Correcting flipped shackles
While trying to grease wet bolts by lifting the trailer I accidentally flipped the shackles on one axle. I've read of the various ways to correct, but usually involves putting pressure on the axle and forces the shackles back into the correct position, accompanied by a "loud bang".
Is there a less intensive way to do this not putting so much stress on the springs/shackles?
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pulpwood007
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09/12/20 06:42pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Just about dropped it!
What's going on??? Sixteen responses and haven't seen "BedSaver" mentioned. :B
OK, I'll confess. I have a Bedsaver and it has saved my bed twice.
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pulpwood007
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08/06/20 08:04pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: Wheel Bearing Repack
I just got an estimate from the local Goodyear dealer for $275 including seals. He is old school and honest. If they're Chinese bearings, I'll have him replace them with Timkens if they're available.
JK
Just updating my own post. I had it done and it was $437. $165 labor, and $272 for double lip seals from NAPA.
It's really difficult for me to imagine a wheel bearing seal costing $70 each. I'm pretty diligent concerning maintaining my bearings, using Timkens, which I check annually. I have used no-name double lip seals, probably made in China for 12 years with zero issues. I pay $6 each and replace them every 2 years when I pull and clean bearings. I have never had an issue or a grease leak yet.
This is just my experience and your results may vary.
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pulpwood007
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06/27/20 09:25pm |
Fifth-Wheels
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RE: digital temperature controller
To answer the original question, most of those digital temperature controllers do have the ability to set the temperature differential between their turning on and turning off. The first one linked, for instance, apparently can set that to anywhere between 1 degree and 25 degrees.
Thanks for all the great suggestions. The instructions for those digital controllers make little sense to me. Also checked Youtube and found vague info. I'm going back and do more research.
The snap disks may be the most reliable solution. Also, the mechanical switch in these may last longer. Big question now is what temp I need to cycle ON and what temp OFF??
Another possibility I thought of involves a fan that is already on the fridge. Even though I can't see it because of the tight install, there is a small fan that cycles on and off. It's kinda loud so I assume it's probably a 60 or 80 mm muffin fan. If I can find a relay that controls it, I could come off that for the extra fans.
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pulpwood007
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06/23/20 06:37am |
Tech Issues
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RE: digital temperature controller
Can you provide link to a snap disk? I don't know what they are. I'm not interested in over temp applications at this time.
I'm still interested if the controllers in my OP will work???
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pulpwood007
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06/22/20 08:33pm |
Tech Issues
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digital temperature controller
I want to add a couple of 140mm fans to the back of my refrigerator to cool the coils. Instead of manually turning the fans on and off I would like to control them with a thermostat.
I found the 2 controllers below, but it looks as if you can only activate the built in relay at a designated high or low temp, but I can't see that a specific temp range can be designated to cycle the fans on and off accordingly.
Hypothetically, I'd like to turn the fans on at 80 degrees and off at 70 degrees. Any suggestions on what to use?
https://www.amazon.com/bayite-Fahrenheit-Digital-Temperature-Controller/dp/B011VGAPOC/ref=sr_1_8?dchild=1&keywords=12vdc+inkbird+programmable+thermostat&qid=1592862705&sr=8-8
https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Temperature-Controller-Fahrenheit-Thermostat/dp/B019I3YCFS/ref=sr_1_10?dchild=1&keywords=12vdc+inkbird+programmable+thermostat&qid=1592862751&sr=8-10
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pulpwood007
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06/22/20 04:01pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Refrigerator cooling question
In order to get the most accurate information on the ARP controller, I e-mailed the engineer who designed/manufacturers it. Here is his e-mail back to me. His answers in bold:
The ARP device shuts your fridge off if the boiler gets too hot.
This is correct.
Not exactly the best thing for keeping the beer cold,
This is incorrect, the boiler overheats because it is no longer producing refrigerant. Restated, ammonia is the refrigerant, and when it does not get back to the boiler to drive the system, the heat of the boiler actually heats your beer in the fridge.
but it might keep your RV from burning down. My temp sensor is right above the upper fins in the back. Right near the bottom of the baffles that lead to the roof vent.
This is incorrect, the ARP (aka Fridge Defend) boiler sensor goes on the boiler when one installs according to the instructions.
PS. what burns down an RV is NOT a overheating cooling unit.
This statement is totally inaccurate, it is the destruction of the corrosion inhibitor that results in a leak. The corrosion inhibitor is what protects the cooling unit from a leak, and overheating of the boiler is what destroys the corrosion inhibitor.
What burns them up is a LEAK in the cooling unit and the LP flame "may" ignite the Ammonia.
This is also totally inaccurate, most absorption fires happen at around 2am to 4am in the morning when on shore power.
Also a dirty LP burner will cause a flame flash and ignite areas around the Cabinet and cause a fire.
______________________________________________________________________
So the ARP unit will not necessarily guard against fires in the refer, only against overheating in the flu.
This is not true, the ARP boiler sensor is mounted to the boiler tube, not the flue tube.
WRONG WRONG WRONG on most points.
1. An overheated Cooling unit does NOT catch fire and burn. It DESTROYS the CU but does not leak. Can leak but rarely
2. I state flue which is welded to the BOILER tube. Sorry, but just a mistake in term.
3. WHERE do you get the info on 2 am to 4 am???????????????? What would THAT time have anything to do about the failure of a CU(leaker). NOT A THING.
4. I will back my statements after 41 years as an RV tech. Doug
Doug, in your previous post you sounded like you were favorable to the ARP unit. It almost sound like you and the ARP company are saying the same thing when it comes to the leaking ammonia causing the fire. He states "it is the destruction of the corrosion inhibitor that results in a leak". This apparently results from the boiler getting too hot. So either way the leaking ammonia is the cause.
I appreciate your opinion. Regardless of the possibility of fire, and how it originates, it sounds like cutting power to a hot cooling unit may have several benefits.
I know there may be some difference of opinions here but this is really interesting hearing how these RV fridges work, as well as how they malfunction. Thanks for your input.
Chip
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pulpwood007
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06/05/20 09:50pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Refrigerator cooling question
The ARP device shuts your fridge off if the boiler gets too hot. Not exactly the best thing for keeping the beer cold, but it might keep your RV from burning down. My temp sensor is right above the upper fins in the back. Right near the bottom of the baffles that lead to the roof vent.
PS. what burns down an RV is NOT a overheating cooling unit. What burns them up is a LEAK in the cooling unit and the LP flame "may" ignite the Ammonia. Also a dirty LP burner will cause a flame flash and ignite areas around the Cabinet and cause a fire.
So the ARP unit will not necessarily guard against fires in the refer, only against overheating in the flu. If I remember correctly the advertisement eludes to the fact it will prevent RV refer fires.
How frequent does an ammonia leak occur in a propane refrigerator that is not of advanced age?
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pulpwood007
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06/05/20 08:32am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Refrigerator cooling question
Mitch,
Looks good. I like the kit, however just found a nice 12vdc controller with temp sensor on Amazon that's cheap. It simply turns on/off fans based on the temp range you set. By going with a stand alone controller like this I could use muffin fans or squirrel cage blowers and get the specs I want.
Exactly where did you place the sensor for your controller?
I also just found a system called the Fridge Defend by ARP that actually controls the fridge if it gets too hot, as well as fans, but it's a lot more expensive than a DIY fan system.
Chip
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pulpwood007
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06/04/20 05:20pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Refrigerator cooling question
MitchF150:
Great looking install! Please tell me about the fan control with temp sensor. Did you purchase this as a unit or did you make it? What are the specs on your fans?
It looks like this is in your top vent so I assume it is pulling air over the coils and out. That was the way I had mine rigged on previous trailer except I had a top vent in roof of trailer. My new trailer is like yours, side vents only top and bottom.
What is the pool noodle for, and do you really like your beer cold?
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pulpwood007
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06/04/20 04:15pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Refrigerator cooling question
Thanks for the good information. I'm aware of correct installation procedures and venting. As per the OP I'd really like to hear about running fans continuously or intermittent.
My previous trailer had 3 X 140mm computer fans pulling air out of the exhaust continuous and it worked pretty good. I'm interested if "only" using fans during the cooling cycle would be better.
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pulpwood007
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06/04/20 01:03pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Arkansas State Parks to open...
I've never stayed in a state park in AR, but I want to go to Cotter to do some fishing. I don't need a fancy resort just to spend the night. What's the best deal in the area? Thanks
Bulls Shoals State park is right below the dam and offers good tailwater fishing when they are not running water. It's about a 30 min drive down to Cotter. There is a nice private RV park at Cotter right on the river. Denton Ferry RV Park.
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pulpwood007
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06/04/20 09:56am |
RV Parks, Campgrounds and Attractions
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Refrigerator cooling question
I have followed all the threads involving improving cooling on RV refrigerators. My Norcold is a constant problem to keep the temps at around 40 degrees.
My question is in regards to installing additional fans, both blowing across the coils and inside the fridge to circulate the air. There are controllers sold to only activate the fans when the refrigerator is running (in the cooling mode). They turn off after the cooling cycle is complete.
Other folks just simply install fans that blow across the coils, and circulate air inside the fridge and control them manually. Either leaving them running continuously or turning them on when the fridge will not maintain correct temps.
Are there any issues in letting the fans run continuously? Less efficiency?
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pulpwood007
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06/04/20 09:45am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Improving Fridge Cooling
The RV fridges I’ve seen with a factory installed fan inside them has been at the very top, with the air blowing towards the fins. The one I’m thinking of was in a Norcold fridge, and it looked like a centrifugal fan laying flat against the top of the reefer compartment. It was inside a plenum box that directed the air across the width of the fins.
I made one for my fridge with a small 12v fan that was in my junk pile. I used it because it’s small, and it’s the right voltage. I tapped into the power going to the interior light, and it runs full time when the fridge is turned on.
https://i.imgur.com/nTlibLAl.jpg
:):)
Since you are using the interior fridge light as a 12vdc power source I assume the light does not go off when the fridge door is closed?
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pulpwood007
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05/27/20 09:32am |
Tech Issues
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RE: Improving Fridge Cooling
First, absorption units do better on propane and 110v than they do on 12v. The 12v is only there to try an maintain temps while traveling.
Second, minimize putting warm things in, so limit the number of times and the length of time you have the unit open and try not to put a lot of things in at the same time that aren't already cooled down.
Third, they all work by transferring the heat to the outside via the cooling coils in the back of the unit. For most installations that uses just normal airflow over the coils - since hot air rises it brings in cooler air at the bottom and exits at the top. Units installed with a top roof vent work better than units with the top vent on the side. Most manufacturers don't follow the recommendations for clearances in the back where the coils are and usually allow too much space. Limiting the space to the recommendations using baffles and such helps with the airflow. Adding fans can help, but be careful. Just moving a lot of air may not be as effective as moving the right amount of air over the coils. Faster air can create a turbulent airflow and a laminar airflow is what you want for maximum heat transfer.
Finally, since the unit's performance is based on the ability to transfer the heat outside thru the coils, the temp difference between the air at the coils and the outside air is important. Try not to park your RV in such a way that the sun is heating the area where the refrigerator is located. And remember that at most the unit can probably create about a 40 degree F temp difference, so it will work better when the outside temps are around 70 than it will when the temps a pushing triple digits.
I cannot tell a lot of difference in performance on LP vs. 120VAC. I try to achieve laminar airflow by using the same amount of CFM at bottom of coils and at top (exhaust). Within reason, I'm not sure why having more air passing over the coils would be a negative issue.
Living in Texas, I sure need more than a 40 degree differential from the ambient outside temps. I've been able to achieve that at times but not always. Humidity seems to play a large role.
My previous trailer exited at the top, and required me removing the fridge and building new baffles. My new Grand Design trailer exits on the side of the slide, and looks as though they followed manufactures specs so I don't feel that's an issue.
I'm definitely going to add some fans but also looking at the ARP Fridge Defend system. I may use my muffin fans and not their squirrel cage type.
I have yet to determine if the add on fridge interior fans do that much.
Thanks for all the replys.
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pulpwood007
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05/25/20 02:16pm |
Tech Issues
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RE: Shore power plug conversion?
I used PVC pipe and made a support stand that cradles the 50 amp cord right at the connector. It is adjustable for different heights based on campsites. Takes all strain off the screw on electrical connector. Cheap and easy to make.
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pulpwood007
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05/25/20 10:18am |
Fifth-Wheels
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