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RE: Anyone using the HD Roadmaster Rear Sway Bar RM-1139-163?

In Elgin, IL is a truck, emergency vehicle (fire truck), bus, ambulance, and motor home suspension shop called Champion Frame Align. Give them a call. If George still works there, he would be able to enlighten you regarding your question on Roadmaster bar choices. CLICK HERE to get their phone number and read up on their capabilities. They set me up 13 years ago with front & rear Roadmaster bars, Koni-RV shocks, Henderson rear track bar, Safe-T-Plus steering stabilizer, and front wheel alignment. The cost back then to me was an expensive $3900. My only regret was going with George's recommendation of Koni-RV shocks. I should have said "NO, I want the heavy duty Bilstein shocks with lifetime warranty". I have the heavy duty Bilstein shocks today and they are the right ones for my 24 foot E350 motor home. CLICK HERE to get to my write-up with pictures covering my evaluation why I feel the Bilsteins are the right shock for RV applications......especially for the bigger rigs like the one you just bought.
ron.dittmer 07/06/20 08:00pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Newbies looking to purchase

Thanks for the informative post Ron!You are very welcome.
ron.dittmer 07/05/20 08:14am Class C Motorhomes
RE: E-450 Spare Tire carriers

We dodged that bullet. Phoenix did great. This used to be standard, now offered as an option. https://live.staticflickr.com/5335/17896320032_22445768b3_z.jpg width=160
ron.dittmer 07/01/20 07:42am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Are all RV's noisy and rattle?

We did real good in quieting down our class B+ SHOWN HERE WITH MANY PICTURES. - Lined cabinets, drawers, and utencil trays with foam mat cabinet liner material - Placed a paper towel in between pots and such - Added thick felt pads under the feet and wing tips of the roof antenna - Replaced wood screws with threaded spiked T nuts and bolts to secure the microwave oven much tighter - Place silicone pot holders over the stove grates before driving - Added thick felt pads in strategic places on the flip-up counter hinges - Opened up the TV and placed thick felt pads to quiet the internal sheet metal - Attached the B+ cap cabinetry better - Put in the proper tire pressure, not any more than required - Carry a full tank of fresh water, it dampens noise fairly nicely Though our 2007 E350-V10 rig drives very quietly, I am not done yet. I have one more thing planned. Our front suspension is light-weight, under-loaded, over-rated, because most of the weight is on the rear axle, much behind the rear axle, the teeter-totter effect. I will be replacing our front coil springs with the next rating less. The front springs on our E350 are the same as an E450. A softer ride up front should make things even more quiet as well as more comfortable, and maybe even level the rig better because the front sits a bit high. Before you say it, I will get a wheel alignment after.
ron.dittmer 07/01/20 07:25am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Newbies looking to purchase

Hi Mlifly, This is a very long read, but it could help in making a better decision. Ron Dittmer ------------------------------------------------------------ New, used, or well used, when shopping for a conventional class B+ or C, the most important consideration is how it is constructed. This post outlines construction methods which are most affordable and methods that cost more, but are built to hold up much better to the elements and also the punishment of the road. Some motor home manufactures offer different levels of quality through their various model lines. Instead of providing a list of brands to consider, it is best to identify what "Better" is. When shopping for a motor home, don't get distracted with "Eye Candy" and "Square Footage". You want to pay close attention to how the house is constructed. Water infiltration is the number one killer of motor homes, rotting them away long before anything is worn out. Once water gets inside, it is like termites. By the time you realize there is a problem, a lot of damage has already occurred. Also consider that mold & mildew can grow inside the walls which then you have a health hazard. My advise focuses on identifying a reliably well sealed motor home. #1 BEST (Very Expensive, Can Be 1.5 times the cost of Second Best) NO structural seam work. The brand Coach House is a fine example. It is seamless, made from a mold. The only places where water can leak is cutouts for windows, entry door, roof-top vents & a/c unit, storage compartments & maintenance access, all of which are in areas of very low stress. Because they have a seamless shell, these motor homes are not common and have a limited selection of sizes and floor plans. #2 SECOND BEST Common, Affordable, & comes in Many Sizes so this is my main focus I own an example of this type. My Rig Here manufactured by Phoenix USA. Made in sections, but assembled in a way that greatly reduces the threat of water damage. Here are the good things you want to look for. a) Structural Seams Away From Corners When a motor home is driven, the house bounces, resonates, shakes, and leans countless times, representing a endless series of earthquakes. Corner seams see greater stresses than seams located elsewhere. Corner seams are more easily split, especially when the caulk gets brittle with age & exposure to the sun. One extremely bad bump in the road can instantly breach a corner seam. Seams hold up much better when they are brought in from the corners in lesser stressed areas. b) A Seamless Over-The-Van Front Cap A huge bed above the van’s roof is the most vulnerable area of a motor home. No matter how well they are made, that long frontal over-hang resonates when the RV is driven making it common for seams to split there, most troublesome with age & exposure to the elements. HERE is an example, one of many water-damage threads I have read. Scroll down in that thread to see pictures of the real damage. The small front aerodynamic cap of a B+ design HERE eliminates the overhang which eliminates most of the resonation, along with the most vulnerable seam work. There are a few conventional “C” Designs (big over-van bed) where that area is seamless. If you absolutely must have that huge bed, then look for a seamless bucket-like design. The Itasca Navion is a fine example. If your requirements are to have a large class-C with a massive over-van bed, the best example I seen was this Fleetwood Tioga model offered around 2008-2009. It is unfortunate all class-Cs don't practice seamless cab-over area construction for it would greatly improve the class-C industry. Increasing in popularity by many manufactures is a shallow bucket design with fewer seams located in less-stressed areas. The Nexus Triumph is one such example. This shallow bucket design is a reasonable compromise. If you plan to accommodate more than 2 people, having that large extra cab-over bed will be extremely useful. c) A Crowned Roof Rain and snow melt runs off a crowned roof. A flat roof will sag over time, then water puddles around heavy roof-top items like the a/c unit. Water eventually finds it's way inside after gaskets & caulk have degraded from age, sun, and change in seasons. d) Rolled-Over-The-Edge seamless Fiberglass Roof Sheathing A single sheet of fiberglass as shown HERE that rolls over the right & left sides of the roof, down to the wall. The overlapping of fiberglass to the wall provides a good water seal and the fiberglass sheathing holds up better than roofs made of sheet rubber or thin plastic called TPO, which require more attention to keep your RV well protected. e) A Five Sided Rear Wall Cap A five sided back wall moves the seams around to the sides to areas of much less stress as seen HERE. The rear wall resembles a shallow rectangular cooking pan standing on it's side. Like the example, some rear wall sections are constructed with an integrated spare tire compartment and rear storage compartment. Not only are they convenience features, but that rear wall/cap offers a solid double-wall for exceptional strength which is more resistant to flexing the adjoining seam work. It helps in keeping the house together. Don't be fooled. Some manufactures add rear wall sectional styling which gives the appearance of a 5-sided pan design. Though not as desirable, they are still an improvement because all the holes for lighting and such are not in the structural wall where water could otherwise get inside the house. You can easily tell by noting the sections & seams between them and the flat back wall that remains exposed. CLICK HERE to see an example. f) Walls Are Either Resting On The Floor Or Bolted Against It Common sense would say the walls should rest on the floor, but some manufactures actually bolt the walls into the side of the floor framing. This means the weight of the roof and walls (and everything hanging on them) rests on mounting bolts. How well will that method hold up when being driven for so many thousands of miles? Checking for this is very difficult. It takes a trained eye for sure. CLICK HERE for an example of it done right with the walls resting on the floor. Bigger Will Be Weaker The size & floor plan you select MUST FIRST meet your needs before this consideration. The bigger the house, the weaker the structure will be. Consider two cardboard boxes made from the exact same corrugated material. The smaller box would naturally be stronger. It will be more resistant to bending, twisting, and other types of flexing. So if you are on the fence between models, the smaller one will be your stronger choice. Potentially Troublesome Construction Entry level motor homes are made with seams in corners and finished off with trim, including the massive cab-over bed. Their roof is flat and finished with rubber or TPO. They are most affordable, and come in all sizes. HERE is one such example. If considering this construction type, keep in-mind they require more regular care with bi-annual inspections. Plan to use a caulking gun now and then. When buying a used one, consider that you really don't know how well the previous owner maintained it. Buying new or used, that construction method will be counting on you to be a good non-neglectful owner. There are also the rare exception of the Lazy Daze which has seam work in the corners, but the substructure and sealing method is of the highest quality that it holds up like a seamless body. It's excellent sectional construction methods are not commonly found in other brands. I am no expert on this, but I'd give it a #1.5 Almost Like Best A Caution Concerning Slide Outs Slide outs are most popular. Everybody loves the extra floor space they provide. There are so few motor homes made without at least one slide out. Unfortunately slide outs can introduce risk of water damage to the main floor around them. Good seals work when the rig is young, but can loose their ability to seal properly as they age. When looking at used rigs with slide outs, closely examine the main floor around each one. If you can lift the carpet adjacent to the slide out and see the wood floor is a gray color, that is a sign that water gets inside. Also, completely open the slide out and step on the main floor adjacent to the slide out. If it feels soft, the plywood or chip board material underneath likely requires replacing. About The Chassis The most popular is the Ford E350 and E450 with the V10 engine, and this year Ford replaces that 6.8L-V10 with a larger, more powerful 7.3L-V8. The Ford Transit diesel and the Mercedes Sprinter diesel are popular alternatives to the E350 in the smaller sizes. The GM 3500 & 4500 chassis are not popular but are a very good choice for the right application. Any of the chassis mentioned made since 1998 are real good, new or used. If you plan to tow a car or heavy trailer, be aware that the Transit and Sprinter will be least powered. People who tow with them naturally take it slower. I am not sure a Transit can tow anything significant. That needs further research. If considering a recent “small” class B+ or C motor home, here is a comparison between the two current main chassis contenders, the Sprinter with the V6 diesel engine and the Ford E350 with the V10 gasoline engine. Advantages Of The Mercedes Sprinter With Diesel Engine - Offers a 35%-50% improvement in fuel economy over the Ford-V10, when both are loaded and driven identically. - More ergonomic driver compartment with more leg room. - Comfort continues with a car-like feel & quiet ride. - A grander view out the windshield - Made by Mercedes which people are attracted to. Advantages Of The Ford E350 with V10 Engine - Given identical motor homes both brand and model, the Ford is around $24,000 MSRP cheaper - The Ford V10 engine has 50% more horse power and torque - The Ford E350 chassis handles 1430 pounds more weight. - The E350 is able to tow a heavier load. - The E350 rear axle is significantly wider which translates to better stability. - In most places traveled, gasoline costs less than diesel fuel - The Sprinter diesel has limited mechanical service shops around North America - The Sprinter diesel is typically outfitted with a propane generator. Propane is a critical fuel for RV operations, and generally needs to be rationed when dry camping. - This Next Point Is Debatable But Still Worth Noting....The V6 Sprinter diesel engine is not allowed to idle for extended periods. This limitation is detrimental when you need a/c but there are generator restrictions, you are low on propane, or you have a mechanical failure with the generator or roof a/c. The Ford offers a great backup system. The V10 can safely idle for hours on end, heating, cooling, and battery charging, all valuable if you have a baby, pets, or health/respiratory issues. You decide what your priorities are, and pick the appropriate chassis. There are some really sweet motor homes being built exclusively on the Sprinter chassis, such as the Winnebago Navion and View. The Ford Transit Chassis This chassis is increasing in popularity in the smallest sizes. According to Ford's website, the Transit DRW chassis is offered in the 156", and 178" wheel base, and is rated as high as 10,360 GVWR. Ford offers a motor home package specific for the RV industry. It's diesel engine compares to the Sprinter in power and fuel economy, but is more affordable and is easily serviced at Ford service centers, just like the E350 & E450. The cab has a lower stance than the Sprinter making it much more friendly to get into and out from for people in their later years. Entering and exiting is more like a mini-van rather than a standard van. The Transit's lower cab also offers roomier over-head bunks that are easier to access. The Dodge Promaster 3500 Cut-Away Chassis This front wheel drive chassis is another recent entry in the RV industry. I am concerned over it's lack of load capability as reflected with single free-wheeling rear wheels. I have been reading posts written by new Promaster RV owners stating they are over-weight with just two people, some personal effects and food. They say they can't carry water and never a 3rd person. I would not be comfortable with such a limited load range in a B+ or C. This chassis does seem to be a good option in the "B" motor home market. The Chevy 3500 & 4500 Chassis Unfortunately this chassis is not more popular, primarily because GM sort-of gave up on competing with the Ford E350 & E450. It offers more interior comfort than the Ford, but not as much as the Sprinter. It's power & weight ratings are a little less than their Ford counter-parts making them a great chassis for all but the heaviest of class Cs. They are also a little better on fuel consumption. One thing to keep in-mind, if you are counting inches in storing your rig, the Chevy is a little longer than the Ford by a number of inches which was critical for us with our garage as seen HERE with our Ford 2007 E350 rig. That could be the reason why the Chevy has a little more interior driver/passenger leg room. The Ford E350 & E450 The majority of class B+ and C motor homes are built on one of these two chassis for a number of very good reasons, and with the changes in recent years to the engine and transmission, the good reasons increase. They have more power and load capability than the others. Ford approves outfitters to modify the chassis to increase or decrease the wheel base which supplies motor home companies a lot of design freedom. Ford has off-the-shelf components that work with the wheel base modification. So if you need a new drive shaft, fuel line, brake line, parking brake cable, wire harness, whatever, Ford has them available. Finally, the E350 and E450 chassis is competitively priced. Engine Power Ratings of Ford, MB-Sprinter, Chevy, and Dodge Ford E350 & E450 - 6.8L-V10, 305hp, 420ft (7.3L-V8 starting in 2020) Ford Transit Diesel - 3.2L-I5, 185hp, 350ft Mercedes Sprinter Diesel - 3.0L-V6, 188hp, 325ft Chevy 3500 & 4500 - 6.0L-V8, 323hp, 373ft Dodge Promaster - 3.6L-V6 (GVW only 9,300 pounds) Now to supply some data as to why I feel our Phoenix Cruiser stands above most other brands. These two videos drag on, but provide lots of data and also clarify critical things to look for when evaluating any brand. CLICK HERE on a comparison between a Phoenix Cruiser and an undisclosed brand. I think it is a Nexus. There is a lot of nit-picking but is notable when adding it all up. It is also educational on what makes a better motor home...of coarse at a higher price too. CLICK HERE for a slideshow on how a Phoenix Cruiser is built. I feel this slide show teaches so much, especially about hidden things that unsuspecting buyers would never think about.
ron.dittmer 06/28/20 04:59pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Fighting local zoning ordinances that hurt RV owners

For the most part, I appreciate covenants and restrictions. But sometimes they can go too far. The neighborhood we live in is a nice compromise, allowing RVs in driveways. Still, when we built our house in 1988, we incorporated one of the 3 garage bays taller and deeper for a motor home we did not own. Little did I know at the time, the provision was not big enough. It was very difficult to find a motor home that actually fit. Clicking on my signature and scrolling down includes a picture of our side-entry garage that is hidden by the street with a retaining wall.
ron.dittmer 06/25/20 05:50am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Rear window exploded!

An acquaintance had the same thing happen to him twice. In his case a rock was thrown forward from a front tire of the Jeep Wrangler he towed all the time. Maybe your trailer tires are doing the same. Do your trailer tires have an aggressive tread pattern? Does one tire have a line-of-sight to the rear window? Does the style of your trailer fenders offer a means to eject a rock forward? Maybe the ejection forward hits the pavement, then ricochets up at the window.
ron.dittmer 06/24/20 12:21pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: slide vs no slide

We special ordered our rig in the spring of 2007. CLICK HERE TO SEE IT, a 2007 Phoenix Cruiser 2350. It is small by motor home standards. It is only 9'-10" to the top of the a/c unit, and is 23'-8" long. My point here is that it is small, yet we absolutely "Love" our rig without a slide out. We have no regrets with that decision. But our rig was selected with just the two of us in-mind for the majority of it's use, and we do plan to own it for a total of 35 years, hopefully more if we are safe enough to drive anything at the age of 85. We looked at the negatives that just one slide out can introduce, especially with age. Here are the things I think about. - One slide out adds roughly 500 extra pounds to what is typically a heavy rig to begin with. - One slide out would have costed us an extra $4000. - There is a massive hole in the wall, weakening the over-all structure. The wider the slide out, the greater the risk of the roof sagging in the middle of the hole, especially if the heavy a/c unit is in the right spot. - The rig is especially sensitive to being level to work the slide out with care. - Wind driven rain can puddle on top of the box. When you retract, in comes the water. You won't know it's there until you brake real hard. - Then there is the water on the two sides. In comes wet dirty walls. - The same goes for bugs. They too come in for the ride. - Slide outs leak in cold when it's cold, and heat when it's hot. - There is more volume of air to heat and cool efficiently, a common complaint in the RV industry when conditions get "testy". - Slide outs are not as well insulated as the main wall - A slide out reduces the size of the window in that position. - A slide out reduces wall space by roughly 8" that would otherwise make a roomier dinette or wider couch. - Slide outs like to rattle when the rig is being driven. - You get significantly less storage with a slide out, from smaller over-head cabinets, to exterior compartments. - If having a dinette in a slide out, head room can be an issue if the ceiling is lower like we have. - There is the maintenance factor required to keep a slide out working well. - Finally, there is the driving experience. Driving our a house without a massive box inside, it simply feels better.
ron.dittmer 06/23/20 06:42pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Small Class C with out tow car

Our B+ SEEN HERE measures 23'-8" over-all, small by class C standards. We went on one big long trip out west without our tow vehicle. Our mobility was fine for general transit, shopping, restaurants, etc, but there were times we missed having our Jeep Liberty for exploring and increased mobility in national parks. We also missed the convenience of leaving the RV at the camp site to avoid prepping it every morning to drive off. We are not the kind of people who hang out at the camp site. I don't hang around the camp site either that is why I asked the question. I have an A now and would not be without a tow car. Noticed most B campers don't tow but many small C campers do, did not know whether the added width made a difference or not because most of the B's are about the same length as yours which is very nice. I looked at the new 2350 models and they only come with a slide and less FW than yours.It might be the way Phoenix spec'd the fresh water capacity at the time. I think in 2007, Phoenix included the 6 gallons of water in the hot water tank. I later added a 1 gallon water accumulator tank, so my capacity is a tad more than when the rig was new. You can "special order" any Phoenix Cruiser without one or all slide outs as long as the floor plan can accommodate the deviation. That is how we got our model 2350 without a slide out. We instead invested in the full body paint job. There is a long list of reasons why we intentionally avoided a slide out.
ron.dittmer 06/22/20 06:33pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: It's official

^^^^^ Roam around Alaska, Canada and MexicoAlaska and Canada - Yes! Mexico? That rig will be a giant sign to the drug cartel and other thugs that "American Money Is Here". As much as I would love to travel south of the border, even to the tip of South America, I would never consider doing so.
ron.dittmer 06/21/20 08:47am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Small Class C with out tow car

Our B+ SEEN HERE measures 23'-8" over-all, small by class C standards. We went on one big long trip out west without our tow vehicle. Our mobility was fine for general transit, shopping, restaurants, etc, but there were times we missed having our Jeep Liberty for exploring and increased mobility in national parks. We also missed the convenience of leaving the RV at the camp site to avoid prepping it every morning to drive off. We are not the kind of people who hang out at the camp site.
ron.dittmer 06/21/20 06:26am Class C Motorhomes
RE: Class C’s with lots of windows

In the 21-24 foot lengths, the only way I know of to have big windows on both sides of the living room, is to have a couch on one side and a dinette on the other side, keeping in-mind that your permanent bed is the cab-over bunk. For many of us older folks, we need to sleep on the main floor. In a 21-24 foot length, that means the need to convert the living room into a bedroom (then back again) daily.....or live in a bedroom as we did with our first motor home which was not good. We replaced that rig with our current one SEEN HERE which measures 23'-8" long end-to-end, a B+ with a permanent main floor double bed. We don't have a slide out so the driver-side has a nice size window. The passenger side does not. As others have mentioned, we open the door often to get the open-feel. Having the extra captain seat is a reasonable compromise instead a couch to keep the rig short. We could have paid more for a window by that captain seat, but the seat itself would have covered it. Here is a stock photo of what it might have looked like, but this has the uncomfortable low back barrel seat that we replaced with the comfortable captain seat. https://live.staticflickr.com/5464/30450130885_186913abcf_z.jpg width=640
ron.dittmer 06/21/20 05:58am Class C Motorhomes
RE: wind

billy1davis, I did not read through the other replies, but here are my thoughts. You mentioned that your rig has heavy duty front and rear stabilizer bars. Our rig has them as well. But I learned that having them does not necessarily mean they are doing their job. Stabilizer bars (heavy duty or standard) require tightening every 20,000 to 30,000 miles. Play from wear develops within the links and so they require tightening to once again respond properly. The life expectancy of shock absorbers is another surprise for many RV owners. People are reporting that their shocks are lasting between 25,000 and 35,000 miles. That is also my own experience. CLICK HERE to read about it. I included many pictures for clarity. So make sure what you have is working properly. One more point. A heavy duty steering stabilizer helps to limit excessive steering compensation.
ron.dittmer 06/11/20 09:51pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Trouble With RV.net Am I Alone?

This past week or two or three, on RV.net alone, I constantly get "Service Unavailable". I have to retry several times to get my posts, replies, and corrections loaded, as well as simply viewing the website. It has gotten so bad that I have been avoiding this forum lately. I was hoping it would clear up, but it has gotten worse, absolutely horrible for me this past few days. Is this my problem alone, or is everyone experiencing the same? Ron ... try coming in all the time through this port and you might not have the problem: https://www.coastresorts.com/boards/OP Here, I will try the portal that pnichols and others have been suggesting. I just reset my bookmark to it. Hopefully the inconvenience is history for me.So Far, So Good. Thanks pnichols!
ron.dittmer 06/02/20 08:44pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Best brand for resale?

tarnold, That is a cool story. You have us beat. In 1983, we bought a brand new Mirage motor home built on a 1983 Toyota chassis. We paid $12,255. 24 years later, we sold it for $7,600. The years in between included $2000 in suspension work. It was a great investment for so many years of good service and enjoyment. The person we sold it to is many states away. Not long ago, I heard he still has it on the road, all decked out better than ever.
ron.dittmer 05/29/20 01:24pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Best brand for resale?

Thanks again, y'all. Whatever unit (B or C) we end up going with, it will be for doing a lot of driving and stopping to see the sights along the way. Maybe even spending 1 or 2 nights a week now and then in a hotel. Me, the wife, and daughter (grown).Ah, the way I see it working best is...... Mom, Dad, and adult daughter = 1) full time main floor bed for Mom and Dad 2) over-head cab bunk of a conventional C for the daughter. This way the living area stays "living". Mom and Dad have their private space with a curtain or door, and the daughter does as well with a curtain. Whoever wakes up first can let the others sleep later. The same goes for early-to-bed.
ron.dittmer 05/28/20 01:41pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Trouble With RV.net Am I Alone?

This past week or two or three, on RV.net alone, I constantly get "Service Unavailable". I have to retry several times to get my posts, replies, and corrections loaded, as well as simply viewing the website. It has gotten so bad that I have been avoiding this forum lately. I was hoping it would clear up, but it has gotten worse, absolutely horrible for me this past few days. Is this my problem alone, or is everyone experiencing the same? Ron ... try coming in all the time through this port and you might not have the problem: https://www.coastresorts.com/boards/OP Here, I will try the portal that pnichols and others have been suggesting. I just reset my bookmark to it. Hopefully the inconvenience is history for me.
ron.dittmer 05/28/20 01:36pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Best brand for resale?

If considering a class B, I always thought the Rialta was interesting. If serious about one, I would try to get a 2003-2005 for it came with the strongest available VW engine. The oldest ones built in the 90's are under-powered.
ron.dittmer 05/28/20 09:59am Class C Motorhomes
Trouble With RV.net Am I Alone?

This past week or two or three, on RV.net alone, I constantly get "Service Unavailable". I have to retry several times to get my posts, replies, and corrections loaded, as well as simply viewing the website. It has gotten so bad that I have been avoiding this forum lately. I was hoping it would clear up, but it has gotten worse, absolutely horrible for me this past few days. Is this my problem alone, or is everyone experiencing the same?
ron.dittmer 05/27/20 09:10pm Class C Motorhomes
RE: Best brand for resale?

A 3 to 5 year old Phoenix Cruiser will closely hold it's value for your intended purposes. I am not sure a 1 to 2 year old will as much because you would be paying so much more to buy it, and the worst of depreciation has not passed yet. Regarding which model holds it's value the best, I think it is model 2551 and 2552. The twin beds in the shorter lengths seem to be most sought after, hence more apt to get your money back after a year or two of serious use. As others have mentioned, "Condition" means so VERY much. We special ordered our PC HERE new in May 2007, paying $67,205, immediately followed by various suspension upgrades and other smaller rig-specifics including two built-in TVs, a 3rd captain seat, leather dinette, and other OEM upgrades done later to bring our investment to around $73,000. Because of how we store and care for our rig retaining it's "Like New" condition, along with it's low ~40,000 miles driven, I think I might be able to get half of that back in resale. I wouldn't really know for certain unless I tried, but selling our like-new PC would be a very dumb idea for us personally.
ron.dittmer 05/27/20 06:41pm Class C Motorhomes
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