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 > Your search for posts made by 'swimmer_spe' found 51 matches.

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RE: Solar power

OP here. I plugged it back in. It rebounded to 11.9V I now know. Do you mean you were charging it? Or just measuring the voltage (at the battery posts would be preferred. 40% is a bit too low. I was reading off my panel in the trailer. The rebound I am assuming was due to the solar panel. Not bad, but definitely not good. I'm still not following. - What did you plug in? If you mean shore power, that just means the charger (aka: converter) kicked on. In that case 11.9v is not indicative of the state of charge. In that case, the charger is likely trying to push somewhere north of 13v but the battery is sucking it up pulling the voltage down because the battery is dead. Using voltage to estimate state of charge only works if there is no charging or loads and the battery has been left to sit for a while. - What were the sun conditions? Mid-day it might be the panel but same issue with it not being representative of the state of charge. Shore power was disconnected for the test. It dropped to 11.5v. I then checked it a few hours later and the panel read 11.9v. Then I plugged shore power back in. It was actually cloudy.
swimmer_spe 11/02/22 12:44pm Tech Issues
RE: Solar power

It was close to freezing. I do not know how often it was on, but when on, it was only for a few minutes. Fridge was off. No other power draws. Lights were off. My hope was that the existing solar panel could allow me to last 1 week in these weather conditions. Since i can't, I will be bringing a generator and running it for a few hours to recharge and have extra batteries to parallel or swap in/out. How often/long it's on is what counts. Down into the 30's, ours doesn't run much. Realistically boondocking, you will have the fridge, lights and other draws to add into the mix. Best to do an energy audit and estimate everything (what is the wattage and what percent of the time is it running to calculate total w-hr), then work from there. For a day or two of boondocking, you can cheat and let the battery run down with the idea of plugging in at the next campground or when you get home to fully top it up. For longer time periods, you basically, need to plan on replacing what you consume each day (or at least close to it). While you need at least 2 batteries (maybe more with a realistic energy audit), your big issue is sufficient charging. It's borderline running the fridge in cool conditions (when the compressor on-time is low) but once you add in the furnace, lights and other uses, not even close. Best to parallel rather than swap batteries if at all possible due to the Peukert Effect. The basic idea is the larger the wattage draw relative to the total watt-hours of a batter bank that you draw, the fewer watt-hours you can pull from the battery bank without depleting it. Example: Let's say you have 2 - 1200w-hr (rating) batteries (aka: 100amp-hr) and are drawing 240w - If you parallel them, you have 240w out of 2400w-hr which is about 10%. - If you swap them, you have 240w out of 1200w-hr which is around 20%, then you swap and are still at 22%. Even though the ratings are the same, you might get 2600w-hr at 11% vs 2200w-hr at 22% once you are done (you would have to get the manufacturers specs for specific impacts but the principal holds) Easy enough for me to do as I have a good second deep cell and was planning on getting a new one as I have another that is bad. If the good battery is the same, I'll use it, otherwise, I'll get a new one to match the one the trailer came with.
swimmer_spe 11/02/22 12:43pm Tech Issues
RE: Solar power

OP here. I plugged it back in. It rebounded to 11.9V I now know. Do you mean you were charging it? Or just measuring the voltage (at the battery posts would be preferred. 40% is a bit too low. I was reading off my panel in the trailer. The rebound I am assuming was due to the solar panel. Not bad, but definitely not good.
swimmer_spe 11/01/22 10:41pm Tech Issues
RE: Solar power

Op here. I am doing a test. Just the furnace on, started with 12.7V. 24 hours later and now it is 11.5V What was the weather and what percentage of the time was the furnace actually operating? Running for 3-5min out of each hour in mildly cool weather is wildly different from running 30min out of each hour in colder weather. Did you turn off the fridge? Were any other 12v draws in operation? Regardless, take the battery down to 11.5v (90% discharged) frequently and it will quickly lose capacity and need replacement. Generally, you don't want to go below 50% (around 12.1v after the load is removed). A second battery would likely keep you up around 50% after 24hr but I'm not sure if it was a valid test (not knowing the full conditions). The next question would be how are you replacing the energy consumed. We don't boondock a lot, so a bit of generator time in the morning & evening along with the 50w panel does fine. If we were boondocking a lot, we would want bigger panels. It was close to freezing. I do not know how often it was on, but when on, it was only for a few minutes. Fridge was off. No other power draws. Lights were off. My hope was that the existing solar panel could allow me to last 1 week in these weather conditions. Since i can't, I will be bringing a generator and running it for a few hours to recharge and have extra batteries to parallel or swap in/out.
swimmer_spe 11/01/22 10:40pm Tech Issues
RE: Solar power

OP here. I plugged it back in. It rebounded to 11.9V I now know.
swimmer_spe 10/31/22 07:21pm Tech Issues
RE: Solar power

Op here. I am doing a test. Just the furnace on, started with 12.7V. 24 hours later and now it is 11.5V
swimmer_spe 10/31/22 02:10pm Tech Issues
RE: Solar power

Thank you. For some reason, I thought the panel was a 250w one. Maybe they upgraded for the 2023 models. It would certainly make more sense except, 250w of solar is a lot for a single 12v battery. How big is yours? Ours is around 18" x 18". I haven't been on the roof yet, but the end at the front that I can see that it looks about 2 feet wide. I figured it was rectangular.
swimmer_spe 10/31/22 08:12am Tech Issues
RE: Solar power

We have the same model but a 2021. With a single battery and the fridge, expect it to be running low by morning. We picked up a second battery and that handles the fridge overnight usually at 50-60% state of charge by morning. The 50w panel won't replace that so if you are stationary for multiple nights, plan to break out the generator in the morning to top up and the panel can do the last few %. You will likely need around 150w of panels if you want to run the fridge. If you are also running the furnace and it's running a significant percentage of the time at least double that. This assumes you are judicious with other power consumption. Thank you. For some reason, I thought the panel was a 250w one.
swimmer_spe 10/30/22 10:23am Tech Issues
RE: Solar power

OP here. Many of you are posting without knowing what my trailer is equipped with. The questions about the battery, panel and other electrical questions do not help. I am not looking for someone to do math. I can do that.I am looking for someone who has one and knows what it can and cannot do.Unplug and check what works. Fridge should work best on propane. (Probably has 12v controls and ignition) Lights will work. Maybe not the ceiling fan Water pump works Water heater should work on propane. (probably has 12v controls and ignition) Electric front jack should work. Possibly the leveling jacks. Furnace should work burning propane. Has 12v fan and electronic ignition. Cooktop and oven should work on propane. No microwave No air conditioning No electric water heat No electric outlets What did I mis? Fridge is only 12v. The stabilizing jacks are crank. The lights are all LED.
swimmer_spe 10/29/22 06:02pm Tech Issues
RE: Solar power

Join the Forest River owners forum where you may get your answer and probably find someone with the same trailer. You won't get it here. There are a hundred + threads about solar here, and all are a mashed up pile of back and forth arguing about things where the participants are mostly wrong to begin with, basically BS. I just posted this there. Thank you for the advice.
swimmer_spe 10/29/22 06:00pm Tech Issues
RE: Solar power

OP here. Many of you are posting without knowing what my trailer is equipped with. The questions about the battery, panel and other electrical questions do not help. I am not looking for someone to do math. I can do that.I am looking for someone who has one and knows what it can and cannot do.
swimmer_spe 10/29/22 10:44am Tech Issues
Solar power

My 2023 Cherokee Wolf Pup 22RR has a factory installed solar panel. Realistically speaking, can the trailer be used with the single battery installed without it dying? I am thinking of installing a second battery. Except for the AC, what would I need for solar panels to not need a generatorfor the heat and 12V fridge(and lights)?
swimmer_spe 10/28/22 11:04pm Tech Issues
RE: RV Cell booster

If I were spending the money again, and needed to have service. I'd just pay for Starlink. But Starlink is just "internet". It doesn't boost a cell signal, which is what it seems like the OP is seeking to do. Every phone I am aware of allows WiFi calling, so Starlink will give better phone service than any of the boosters. OP here, While it may bean an option, I would rather not have a monthly fee.
swimmer_spe 10/23/22 11:27am Technology Corner
RE: Cold in the bedroom.

Get a cuddle bunny to keep you warm. I prefer 2. Otherwise my backside gets cold. Unfortunately someone vetoed that option...but seriously. Leaving the door open is the simplest option. We have a 22RR. I can't find the 22BP but I assume it's a similar situation. The furnace is mounted under the oven and there is one heating vent pointed toward the back and one toward the front, with both coming out of the main kitchen cabinet. There is no heating duct to the bedroom. Honestly, we rarely use the furnace as a 1500w space heater is usually plenty down to around 30F. When it is cold, if we close the bedroom door, yes, almost no heat goes to the bedroom and there isn't room to put a space heater in the bedroom. A simple solution assuming you have shore power is to turn the air/con fan on (fan mode not cooling mode). This will circulate the the warmed air from the back up to the bedroom as the air/con is ducted with a vent in the bedroom. One item that might help clarify answers: Why do you not want the door open? It is the 22RR. I misread it.... I did not know I could run the fan on the AC unit. It does not have a separate panel. If that is all I need to do, then that would work for some places. It also means that for others, I'm investing in a Honda generator.... You might need to get someone to wire the thermostat to allow it. The digital thermostats combine the air/con, heat and fan functions and automatically select which fan (furnace or air/con) is run. But it shouldn't be anything complex to wire in a switch for the air/con fan. The fan by itself doesn't draw a lot of wattage, so should be no problem for the electrical system to run both air/con and furnace fans. Alternatively, you could check if there is a heat strip option for the air/con. As mentioned, a 1500w space heater does quite well down to around 30F, so a heat strip should handle things unless you do really cold weather camping. Sounds like a bit much for this year, but I will definitely look into that. Generally, I tend to camp in to November. I'd say -10C is about the worst that I'd expect. (by then our water lines are winterized.)
swimmer_spe 10/11/22 08:07am General RVing Issues
RE: Cold in the bedroom.

I had a similar issue and solved it with a pair of 4” square 12 volt muffin fans intended for computer cooling. I put one at the top blowing in warm air off the ceiling and one on the floor blowing cold air out. They are nearly silent and draw very little power. The key is they run non-stop, not just when the furnace is cycling. Do you have a picture of that set up?
swimmer_spe 10/11/22 07:57am General RVing Issues
RE: Cold in the bedroom.

Get a cuddle bunny to keep you warm. I prefer 2. Otherwise my backside gets cold. Unfortunately someone vetoed that option...but seriously. Leaving the door open is the simplest option. We have a 22RR. I can't find the 22BP but I assume it's a similar situation. The furnace is mounted under the oven and there is one heating vent pointed toward the back and one toward the front, with both coming out of the main kitchen cabinet. There is no heating duct to the bedroom. Honestly, we rarely use the furnace as a 1500w space heater is usually plenty down to around 30F. When it is cold, if we close the bedroom door, yes, almost no heat goes to the bedroom and there isn't room to put a space heater in the bedroom. A simple solution assuming you have shore power is to turn the air/con fan on (fan mode not cooling mode). This will circulate the the warmed air from the back up to the bedroom as the air/con is ducted with a vent in the bedroom. One item that might help clarify answers: Why do you not want the door open? It is the 22RR. I misread it.... I did not know I could run the fan on the AC unit. It does not have a separate panel. If that is all I need to do, then that would work for some places. It also means that for others, I'm investing in a Honda generator....
swimmer_spe 10/11/22 07:56am General RVing Issues
RE: Cold in the bedroom.

https://d17qgzvii7d4wm.cloudfront.net/s3/img.rv/3718/i/3443282/o/1_3718_3443282_230011121.jpg width=700 - Furnace under the stove in main living area - No ducting to the bedroom - Door needs to stay closed for privacy. (I assume that includes the bathroom door.) Those are pretty hard constraints. I camp a lot in the winter in sub-freezing temps and our furnace is ducted but it isn't great in our front bedroom. So I think I'm pretty familiar with your situation. We leave the furnace set to somewhere between 55 and 60 to keep the main areas warm and keep the enclosed belly warm enough to prevent freezing. This doesn't keep us warm in bed though. Our strategy is: - Extra blankies - Sleep as close as practical (including sometimes a dog on top of the bed) - A portable buddy heater set to low. Depending on what time we go to bed, it will usually run until about 4:30 or 5:00 before the fuel runs out. Looking at your floor plan, you have room for one. - Get up around seven and put on sweats and move around until it's practical to go outside and start a fire. - If we're super cold and nobody is near enough to be bothered by the sound of a gen, we'll fire up the gen after seven and run the electric fireplace to heat the place up to 70 so we can run around in cutoffs again like fools. You just have to be creative though. There are lots of options, but you can't say no to all of them, or else you'll still be cold. From your suggestions: - Extra blankies That works for the interim. - Sleep as close as practical (including sometimes a dog on top of the bed) What if I am sleeping alone? - A portable buddy heater set to low. Depending on what time we go to bed, it will usually run until about 4:30 or 5:00 before the fuel runs out. Looking at your floor plan, you have room for one. No where to put it safely without it touching something. - Get up around seven and put on sweats and move around until it's practical to go outside and start a fire. The main area stays warm, so that's not an issue. - If we're super cold and nobody is near enough to be bothered by the sound of a gen, we'll fire up the gen after seven and run the electric fireplace to heat the place up to 70 so we can run around in cutoffs again like fools. Wish we had a fireplace.
swimmer_spe 10/10/22 06:42pm General RVing Issues
RE: Cold in the bedroom.

You have given a negative response to every suggestion given, so looks like you might have to grin and bear it. Being from Sudbury, you should be used to chilly winter temps. Lol. If privacy is an issue, and you don't want the door open, you are done. If not, then crack the door or leave it open and get a 12v USB fan for $20 from Canadian Tire. Maybe hunting in winter is not in your future; at least with what you have. I am considering the vent through the door.
swimmer_spe 10/10/22 06:37pm General RVing Issues
RE: Cold in the bedroom.

It seems strange that the bedroom does not have it's own vent? If you ever take a tour of one of the Indiana RV factories, any of them, it would not seem strange. They look for the cheapest, fastest way to do anything. If it would take 5 extra minutes on the line to run a piece of 4" flex duct to the bedroom you're not getting it. It's good enough. And even if you did get one chances are it would be crushed, ripped, unsecured, or full of sawdust and other debris. https://www.rvusa.com/2023-forest-river-cherokee-grey-wolf-22rr-toy-hauler-3443282 That is my layout. The furnace is under the stove. There is no way duct it to the bedroom.
swimmer_spe 10/09/22 07:22pm General RVing Issues
RE: Cold in the bedroom.

Add a large grill in each door. I was thinking of doing that. How big did you do? Did it work? I did it for my pantry for the exact opposite reason. I wanted it to stay cool. There is one grill at the bottom and another at the top. Bigger is better. Consider electric heated carpets from Tempurtech. https://www.tempurtechmanufacturingllc.com/ Problem with the heated carpet is that I tend to be on battery power for the coldest times. So, anything electric is not a good option.
swimmer_spe 10/09/22 09:46am General RVing Issues
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