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RE: F 250 vs Ram 2500

A lot depends on what you are pulling and how often you are pulling. If it's a small 6000lb trailer and a couple thousand miles flatland towing per year, I wouldn't pay for diesel, it's not needed and you will never recoup the up front cost in fuel savings. Heck diesel is now typically more than gas per gallon, so you may get better MPG but not better MPD(ollar). On the other hand, if you are looking at a 15,000lb 5er, lots of miles including towing regularly in the mountains, jumping up to a 1ton diesel, starts becoming much more appealing. It's not as bad as the 1/2 ton trucks but there still is a fair amount of variability in the payload and towing specs for a 3/4 ton, so a blanket statement about 3/4 ton doesn't mean much unless you are way overkill for the trailer and any 3/4 ton will do.
valhalla360 04/16/21 12:31pm Tow Vehicles
RE: Roof Replacement

Using that "logic" one would want to get rid of the fridge vent, the A/C unit(s) and the black and grey tank vents, then you have zero holes to deal with. That would be awesome and would result in trailers that last much longer. It's nice to say if you are scrupulous about sealing it's not an issue...but reality is a large percentage of RVs go to the junk yard due to leaks, so clearly it is a problem. Retrofitting an existing RV would be difficult as you would need to figure alternatives out. But if you have good mood lighting already, skipping some or all of the roof vents would not be a bad option. For new construction, it's not nearly as bad: - Skip the vents and skylights and add LED strips around the ceiling. Actually a lot of RVs have already done the LED thing and with power consumption so low, it's really not an issue running them to compensate for the lost natural light. - Fridge...they are already going there with 12v fridges that require no external ventilation becoming the new standard. - Air/con units could do minisplit with the condenser on the rear bumper and no roof penetrations. - Tank Vents could be done with small wall mounted outlets. - A frosted side window in the bathroom, potentially with a fan would handle shower humidity. None of this would be particularly expensive to implement on a new production unit. Side benefits: - Slightly lower profile to get under low bridges/tree limbs. - Maybe a touch more aerodynamic for better fuel economy. - It would make one piece fiberglass or aluminum roofs a cheaper option which would again increase long term water tightness.
valhalla360 04/16/21 12:22pm Travel Trailers
RE: Rving in New Zealand

Have fun and doable even at present with low Covid cases. Did NZ change their rules in the last few days? Last I knew, NZ was closed except to residents and essential travel...which likely wouldn't include a vacation.
valhalla360 04/16/21 10:07am Full-time RVing
RE: Outdoor latches

The cheap barrel locks aren't great but we hit them with some WD-40 a couple times a year and corrosion hasn't been an issue.
valhalla360 04/16/21 05:20am General RVing Issues
RE: Help! Hitch stuck in ball mount.

Wow, thank you everyone. I have never used a forum like this and had no idea so many people would reply with suggestions. To the person who asked, no, I'm not in Texas, but thanks so much for offering to help; I wish you could come help me! Thank you also to the person who posted the vocab list. To try and clarify the situation: 1) The truck is no longer attached; I drove it away after removing the hitch pin. 2) The torsion bars/sway bars/spring bars (can these terms all be used interchangeably?) have been removed. 3) The ball and ball mount are dangling from the trailer's coupler. My main objective at this point is to get that ball mount out of that coupler without damaging anything. I will check again to see that I properly opened the coupler latch. The trailer is old and the latch did not open so easily like the demos I watch on youtube! I will get some WD-40 to spray up in there. Several people suggested hitting the coupler with a hammer or mallet. This is also what my boss suggested to me today. I will review the comments again, and if anyone has suggestions w/ the more clear description, please let me know. I will try again tomorrow morning. I don't know how to post a photo to the forum; first time forum user here. Can you rotate the ball at all if you grab the shank or is it just completely immobile? If you can rotate it and shift it around, it's probably the latch. It might be as simple as apply 40-50lb of upward pressure so the latch can operate. Just be careful as it's pretty heavy if it falls out. If the ball is trapped and completely immobile, you have a bit more of a challenge. (be very careful and triple check that the trailer can't roll of drop) - If you can get it back into the receiver on the truck, you can use the truck and the trailer jack to try and free it but that will be difficult to get perfectly lined up. - You could try chocking the tires very well and then use a jack to try and push the ball up. Be very careful not to lift the front of the trailer off the ground. That might pop it free.
valhalla360 04/16/21 05:19am Beginning RVing
RE: Help! Hitch stuck in ball mount.

Not enough info to say for sure. Maybe try taking some pictures and post them. If the torsion bars (or one) is still somehow in place, be very careful as it's like a strung bow. But unless I'm missing something, when the hitch was pulled out of the receiver, that should have released the tension on the torsion bars but again, it's hard to tell what's happening based on the description.
valhalla360 04/15/21 01:41pm Beginning RVing
RE: First Post - 2012 Ram 1500 Laramie - What can I pull??

“Greatly exceeding” we’re not talking 1000lbs here. We’re talking a couple hundred pounds. I for one would not worry about that. There are MH’s out there with smaller CCC and the same amount of storage as my class A with a 4200lb CCC! OP was asking about a 7600lb empty trailer...so likely north of 9000-9500lb ready for the road with a hitch weight roughly equal to the trucks payload. That's before putting people or other gear in the truck (that all counts against the payload). If he was over by 100lb, I might agree that the OP can use his discretion...but he's likely going to exceed his payload limits by 50-75%. Now if he drops back to 4000-5000lb fully loaded weight, that's probably viable if he is careful to limit what gets loaded in the truck.
valhalla360 04/15/21 07:44am Beginning RVing
RE: Dangerous Pranks

It's been posted as a potential problem before: 2013 post And there was a blog about it before that: 2011 blog Yep, urban legends tend to have long lives.
valhalla360 04/15/21 04:23am General RVing Issues
RE: F350 SRW Enough Truck

Us diesel guys tend to think there is no other option than a diesel for towing. But there are a lot of other guys out there towing with gassers and are perfectly happy with them. :Z I've had both gas and diesel. I have a Ford V10 currently but we are down around 7,500lb with the current rig. Same truck towing a 12,000lb 5er and it did it but every overpass it would downshift. Never overheated or felt we couldn't make it up the next hill but you really felt it as testing the limits. The 7.3 might do a little better but 14-15k, I would be looking for a diesel.
valhalla360 04/14/21 11:04am Tow Vehicles
RE: Black tank leaked. What to do?

No rot no stink...it doesn't need to be replaced...unless you need to cut it out to remove the tank. Unless you are trying to repurpose the space the tank sits in, you might just leave it if you were able to fully drain it. We had a composter on our boat. For a full size RV (with functional tanks), I would not recommend it. For a truck camper with a small tank, it's a good option. Easier to deal with than a cassette, which we've used on rental RVs and the solids tank on ours could handle a month with 2 people using it. The big thing is the smell. Other than a slightly earthy garden smell when emptying, no smells. The urine can be disposed of in any toilet. The 2 gallon tank is easier to carry and pour than a cassette. Thanks. Eventually I'd like to replace the black tank with a second fresh water tank but that can wait. Glad to hear your experience was overall positive. We don't have a dump site that is terribly convenient to our house, we frequently go winter camping and I hate dealing with the black tank during winter so I'm dead set on the composter. It literally cannot be any worse. It might not compost in the winter as the process slows way down when cold but dump it in a compost bin at home in the spring and let it set for a few months. Even without it decomposing, you should have plenty of space for 2-3 months of weekending on the solids tank. You do still need someplace to dump the urine but that's generally easier. We had a Natures Head and it needed to be dumped every couple days.
valhalla360 04/14/21 11:00am Truck Campers
RE: First Post - 2012 Ram 1500 Laramie - What can I pull??

Update. I just called the Dodge dealership. Told them what I had and he looked it up by my VIN. He says my towing capacity is 9850. It has a "392 rear end?" and he said the GCWR?? is 15,500. Tongue weight should be 10-15% towing capacity so as long as i stay around 1400 or preferably below on tongue weight I'm solid. I'm confused about what you said anyway @Valhalla360 because the manual says towing from 5000 to 9850. I don't know where you got 5000 being max. Maybe you thought (and it says) 5000lbs could be the limit but thankfully apparently mine has the highest possible limit of the different versions of my truck. Sound right? Idk. SO new to this. I know it pulls my pontoon boat quite well. HAHA Sorry, your first post wasn't clear. There isn't typically a minimum tow rating, so I thought the 5000lb was the tow limit you found. But regardless, you run into payload limits before you would ever get close to the 9850 tow rating. If the payload is 1180lb, 1400 tongue weight would already be over by 320lb without you even in the truck.
valhalla360 04/14/21 10:56am Beginning RVing
RE: First Post - 2012 Ram 1500 Laramie - What can I pull??

I only have one sticker on the door jam. it says combined weight of occupants and cargo should never exceed 1180lbs. Then it has tire pressure stuff. Says see owners manual for additional info. The owners manual just says exactly what i posted in original post. I'll check out that site. Ewww...that's even worse. You basically have pretty much the worst options in a 1/2 ton for towing. I take it back that the salesman was being slightly conservative. He's dead on correct that 4000lb (fully loaded trailer) is probably about the most you could do and stay within spec on the truck.
valhalla360 04/14/21 08:25am Beginning RVing
RE: First Post - 2012 Ram 1500 Laramie - What can I pull??

Salesman is being quite honest with you. Maybe a touch conservative but not much. The manual states straight up 5000lb limit, so 7600lb dry is already way over before putting anything in the trailer. Even 5000lb is going to be marginal due to payload of only 1600lb. At 5000lb fully loaded, you are looking at around 700lb hitch weight, plus the 3 of you (wild guess...400lb). That leaves only 500lb for everything else in the truck including anything bolt on like running boards, bed cover, etc.... If you get the 7600lb trailer, you are probably looking at 9000-10000 when loaded with a hitch weight on the order of 1200-1400lb. Payload is going to be a major limitation and 1600lb is towards the low end of 1/2 ton pickup payloads. Figure 12-15% of the GVWR (ignore the empty weight as you won't travel empty) when looking and don't forget all the stuff already in the truck plus passengers.
valhalla360 04/14/21 08:23am Beginning RVing
RE: WD Hitch or not?

Need? Not in the absolute sense. A good idea? Yes. Especially if you already have a WDH. Note: a WDH won't fix a hitch weight that is too low. Redistribute the weight so it's at least 10% and preferably 12-15%.
valhalla360 04/14/21 08:12am Towing
RE: F350 SRW Enough Truck

I would presume the full GVWR since you are buying both trailer and truck. There's no reason to buy a marginal setup. So you likely need 3000-3500 for the pin weight and a 15,000lb tow rating. There are some combinations of truck that will hit north of 4000lb payload and 15,000lb tow rating which should do the job with a gas engine but make sure you check the specs and get confirmation first as there are some truck combinations that only have 2900lb payload and 12,700lb tow rating.
valhalla360 04/14/21 05:58am Tow Vehicles
RE: Black tank leaked. What to do?

No rot no stink...it doesn't need to be replaced...unless you need to cut it out to remove the tank. Unless you are trying to repurpose the space the tank sits in, you might just leave it if you were able to fully drain it. We had a composter on our boat. For a full size RV (with functional tanks), I would not recommend it. For a truck camper with a small tank, it's a good option. Easier to deal with than a cassette, which we've used on rental RVs and the solids tank on ours could handle a month with 2 people using it. The big thing is the smell. Other than a slightly earthy garden smell when emptying, no smells. The urine can be disposed of in any toilet. The 2 gallon tank is easier to carry and pour than a cassette.
valhalla360 04/14/21 05:45am Truck Campers
RE: F150 and Reflection 150 series?

20-30mph crosswinds are no fun. We've done it in both bumper pull and 5er. Have you taken the trailer to the weigh station to find out the real weights? If you've tried multiple hitches with no luck, good chance it's a weight issue. What's the payload of the truck? It's fun to say you will travel light but realistically if the trailer is 10,000lb GVWR, you are probably going to be up around 2000lb pin weight. By the time you add passenger, hitch and other stuff in the truck, not many 1/2 ton trucks will have sufficient payload.
valhalla360 04/14/21 05:38am Fifth-Wheels
RE: effects of / protection from undervoltage

A key formula to remember Watts = Volts * Amps. Electric motors generally pull the same wattage, so if the volts go down, the amps must go up to compensate. Items like a toaster draw a steady amperage, so if the voltage goes down, they just don't get as hot. That formula is actually not complete. and before you think I'm critical of you. I am college trained and it took me 40 years to figure it out :) One of the interesting things about teh Kill-A-Watt meter is the folks who designed it.. Figured it out For things like a space heater.. Or an electric Skillet.. YES Volts*Amps=Watts For motors not so easy as there is one more variable (Power factor) the Kill-a-watt computes both Volt-Amps (Volts*amps) Watts (Almost always less) and power factor (The relationship between the voltage and current sine waves) I've heard of one case where the power factor was near zero and the motor would not run.... I know the "Engineer" who fixed it (ok so he does not even have a high school diploma but he's very well self taught) Yes, I over simplified but figured the OP wasn't interested in the intricacies but the general idea.
valhalla360 04/14/21 04:28am Tech Issues
RE: 5050 miles in 9 Travel Days

My record, though not towing a 5th wheel was about 1450 miles ( Baton Rouge to Cheyenne, Wy. ) in 24 hours. But, I was inspired, much younger and in an automobile! :) memtb Leapin' lizards. :E That's one heck of a day. He did say NOT TOWING, which can easily bump up range by 25-30% as you can run faster and stop for gas less...plus it's less tiring not towing. Did similar back in highschool for spring break Michigan to Daytona Beach in one shot. We just finished an 8900 mile trip, Only took around 7-8 months. We did do a 420 mile day but that was to get clear of the fiasco during the Texas power outage.
valhalla360 04/13/21 02:35pm General RVing Issues
RE: So different now

One word. "Reservations!" Planning ahead relieves stress and frustration. Reservations are a love/hate thing. Around holidays for specific parks, sure. For the next stop, 2 days from now, sure. For 2 weeks from now, 4 travel days, it creates stress as you feel obliged to travel even if the weather or something else is not conducive to travel.
valhalla360 04/13/21 11:17am Full-time RVing
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