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 > Your search for posts made by 'willald' found 69 matches.

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RE: Rear Fiberglass Cap Damage

TechWriter, While I can't offer any better advice than you've already got on repairing this, I'd like to compliment you on how well you documented on your other page how this happened, all the details, etc. And, how you documented how your tow bar is set up correctly, instantly silencing all the folks that tried to suggest this happened due to a faulty setup. I can see exactly how, why this happened, though, and see it was a case of several factors all conspiring together at the same time and place. It was the one time your toad braking system wasn't functional, and you were on a trip to address that very issue. And, on that trip, you came across those road trenches. And, right when you were hitting them, you were on the brakes hard. You were probably braking heavily right when rear axles of the motorhome went over one of those trenches you talked about, so back end dropped, briefly making the jeep's hitch point higher than the Motorhome while braking heavy. Heavy braking with no braking on the Jeep, right at the split second that Jeep's hitch point was higher up than Motorhome because of the trench rear axles were hitting, resulted in the Jeep 'jumping' over the tow bar and into your Motorhome. Was a case of a half dozen things all going wrong at the same time, same place, resulting in this. Could've happened to any one of us that flat tows a vehicle, regardless how well we think we have our rigs set up. Anyway, sounds like you have a good plan on how to fix this. Good luck with it, and thanks for posting back, and giving us more insight on just what happened. Definitely a few things I think we can all learn from this. :)
willald 08/08/22 09:06am General RVing Issues
RE: Waste water totes for fresh water

Here's one more vote for the water bladder, instead of a tote. Tote would definitely work, but would be more expensive, and be much more of a pain to store and move around when empty than the bladder would. Not to mention the funny looks you'd get from your neighbors when they see you emptying water into your fresh tank from a tote that is typically used for waste water. I've thought several times of getting one of those water bladders as a way to refill the fresh water tank when we might need to. Might just do it one of these days. Would you really need a pump to transfer the water over? As long as the water bladder is sitting up higher than your fresh water tank, I'm thinking you might could gravity feed the water into the RV fresh water tank. If your RV is one that has a switch you can throw that will transfer water into the fresh water tank, and you have a winterizing kit on it, then you could just hook up the bladder (or tote) to where you would normally suck in antifreeze when winterizing, and use the RV pump to bring the water ito the fresh water tankn. Thats probably how I'd do it, if gravity feed didn't work.
willald 08/05/22 07:48am General RVing Issues
RE: Bronco

I have looked at the Broncos, too, and like them a lot. Used to own one of the old Broncos back in the day, and had a lot of fun with it. However, for various reasons, I like our current Jeep Wrangler much better, especially when it comes to flat towing. As already indicated, only the bigger, heavier Broncos are flat towable, the small Bronco sport is not. Heavier means, pushing closer to the 5k hitch limit of the Motorhome, and closer to the 26k GCWR limit of the motorhome. Jeep is a good bit lighter than a Bronco, making it better for flat towing. Easier for the Motorhome to tow it. Also, as already indicated, the Bronco transmission, transfer case is almost all electronically controlled, very complicated. And, has not been on the market long, hard to know how reliable it will be long term. Jeeps OTOH, have been flat towable and people been flat towing them for a very, very, very looooong time, with no real issues. I prefer Jeep's proven, simple shift lever operated transfer case over the high tech, untested electronically controlled unit the Bronco has. And, to sum it all up...A a Jeep, and there's nothing else quite like it. Not much else to say, Jeep owners know what I mean. :) They've been around forever, and are just cool, have their own character, and are a lot of fun to own and drive. The Broncos are cool, too, and they do cost less, but they just....aren't a Jeep. My vote....Keep the Jeep, at least until the Broncos have been around a few more years and have had some time to prove themselves.
willald 07/28/22 02:17pm Dinghy Towing
RE: Jump Statt Battery Pack

I strongly recommend option #1 - Use a charge line from Motorhome to your towed vehicle. Will be sooo much cheaper and easier in the long run. No extra battery to have to purchase, wire in, keep charged when not in use, etc. Let the Motorhome's 12V system keep your car's battery charged so it can run the brake system, and don't worry about it. I did this with the last two vehicles I towed, and it worked great all the years I towed that way. Just plug in the red 6-way cable and forget about it. Nothing fancy is needed, either, just have to make sure you put a fuse on the charge wire right before it goes to your battery. Current towed vehicle (Jeep Wrangler) does not need this, so did not wire in a charge line when we set it up to tow. The last two did, though, and if the situation ever changed and I needed to keep the battery charged, would be very easy to run the wire to do such.
willald 07/28/22 02:00pm Dinghy Towing
RE: 2014 Ford V-10 Dropped plastic cap down oil fill tube

The filler tube on V10s in Motorhomes, I believe in most cases is pretty long and has a turn or two in it. is it possible, the cap is still stuck in the filler tube, and didn't make it down to the engine? Ify ou can confirm somehow using the methods already suggested that the cap is in the filler tube, and you can't pull it out with a grabber tool of some kind....Then I'd just pull the filler tube off, then you should be able to push the cap out. If its not in the filler tube and is already down in the cylinder.....Then like already said, you need to go ahead and pop the cylinder cover off and try to get it out before it does serious damage. Oh, and like already said.....Running the engine now, before you get that cap out, would be a very, very BAD idea!
willald 07/11/22 02:12pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Where have all the members gone on this forum?

I still on, been here since 2002, over 20 years. :) During that time, have owned 4 different RVs, and learned soooo much from this forum and all the life experiences I've gone through. Have seen and been through a lot during that time, too - been divorced once, widowed once, now, third times the charm, happily married to the right one should've married all along. Have moved 4 times during all of that chaos. Through all of it, though, have always owned an RV of some kind - first two were trailers, last two (including present) are Class A motorhomes. Have always enjoyed camping/RVing no matter how crazy rest of life got. There were many times that owning an RV proved very useful (a lifesaver!) in getting through some of the tough times. Yes, a lot of members have disappeared, for various reasons. I think that just goes with the territory, with online forums like this.
willald 06/21/22 02:30pm General RVing Issues
RE: House AC went out can I hook up to 20 amp gfci

Yes, you should be able to. But, as already said, don't run anything else when running the A/C, and be very careful about what extension cord you use, if any. If regular RV cord won't reach the 20 amp outlet without an extension, instead of using a typical household extension cord, I'd recommend getting a 30 amp RV extension cord, and using that. That way, you can be pretty sure that voltage drop over the cord won't be a problem, and you'll also have an extra RV extension cord you can carry with you in case you need it at a campsite later on.
willald 06/14/22 01:01pm General RVing Issues
RE: What's up with CGs?

I agree with most above posters, they are just " covering their ARSE " BUT..... There are a ton of newbie campers since COVID hit and they couldn't wine and dine in their fancy hotel.. They HAVE NO CLUE that there is camping etiquette... I think this sums up what the main reason is that campgrounds are getting more 'aggressive' in communicating their rules. They are experiencing more and more folks that don't understand common camping etiquette, or just don't care or think the rules apply to them. Way too many folks are out there with RVs now due to COVID, fresh out of their 5 star hotels they are used to. Hopefully once COVID is gone, most of those people will dump their RVs (making a great used market for the rest of us), and go back to their 5 star hotels. Then maybe campgrounds won't have to be like this.
willald 06/01/22 09:17am General RVing Issues
RE: Bad sway from Toad

I won't argue that an F150 pickup is probably a bit too much weight for this Motorhome to handle. However, I'm wondering if some of the setup here is the bigger issue: ...he needed to install Rough Country coilovers in the front of the F-150 for a 2" lift to get the baseplate and associated stuff to fit OK... THIS, sounds like it may be more of the issue. Lifting a truck 2" just to set it up to flat tow? That seems strange, and not something I've ever heard of anyone doing. Could he use a drop bar with his tow bar to bring the tow bar down to the right height, instead of lifting entire truck up? I'd think that would make more sense, and would make for a much more stable towing setup. Sounds to me like he wanted an excuse to lift his truck up, haha. Which I can definitely understand, nothing wrong with that (we may one day put a lift kit on our Jeep, too). However, between the lift and the weight/size of the F150...It probably just ain't the best choice for a towed vehicle with that Motorhome, and getting something like the CRV like he is talking about doing is probably the best choice.
willald 05/31/22 09:02am Dinghy Towing
RE: Self Install vs. dealer/technician install

The page 316 of the owner's manual for the 2022 Escape says ONLY the hybrid can be towed 4-down and it's very easy to do: simply go into the onboard menu and select "Neutral Tow". No other equipment like lube pump or driveshaft disconnect required. Interesting that hybrid has this feature but the gas-only AWD and FWD versions say no towing ever unless on a full trailer. The hybrid must some sort of transfer case that combines gas and electric power that you can select into a neutral position like on 4WD trucks. We flat towed a 2013 Ford Fusion hybrid for several years, was one of the easiest cars to flat tow and was designed very well for it. I miss that car, would buy another one if Ford hadn't quit making them, haha. For the Fusion and Cmax hybrids, Ford used a CVT transmission that for whatever reason worked very well for flat towing. Just throw it in neutral and go, basically. Really cool thing as well was, power braking assist stayed on all the time with the Fusion hybrid (even when ignition off and flat towing). Sooo, auxiliary braking system I use (ReadyBrake) worked really well with it. Not sure if the Escape hybrid uses a similar hybrid drivetrain or not, but glad to hear there are still a couple good options out there for flat towing other than the good ol' trusty Jeep Wrangler.
willald 05/31/22 08:39am Dinghy Towing
RE: Travel Trailer Towing Recommendations

I gotta say...didn't read all 9 pages! However, seems pretty simple to me! No one has just one vehicle anymore. Let the Op get their SUV, load kiddos till full. Let Granny drive this one, hook Gramps old truck to camper, load remaining kids, and get on the road! When passenger list is light, use whatever vehicle works best. Jerry True, most folks have multiple vehicles. However, I'm betting the OP, like many, does not want to have to drive two separate vehicles when going camping. Takes a lot of the fun out, when can't all ride together. Then again.....If one was going to be taking 10 grand children on long road trips when going camping....Maybe separate vehicles could be a very, very good thing. :)
willald 05/24/22 08:17am Tow Vehicles
RE: Travel Trailer Towing Recommendations

... The strange behavior is making a recommendation that doesn't accommodate the OPs needs. That's what I am saying too! See, we agree!.... I'm not sure you are, Grit dog. You illustrated with your long, elaborate post that the SUV is overall a better vehicle than a van, when you look at everything. And, if you ignore the 10 people requirement the OP has, I don't think anybody would disagree with your points there. However, as already said, no SUV can (safely) carry 10 people. Sooo, it really doesn't matter how many more 'points' the SUV has over the van, because it will not meet the OP's needs. The van will, albeit at a cost in many other areas you mentioned. This has been a challenge for a very long time, and hasn't got any better over the years. How does one safely bring a large family (too large for a pickup) and tow an RV trailer? Back when I was in that boat years ago, I had one of the few 3/4 ton SUVs (Ford Excursion) to do the job. Loved that truck, it was great. It worked great for what we needed at the time. Unfortunately, they are no longer being built. Neither are the other options that used to handle this well (3/4 ton Suburban, Ford E350 passenger vans). I guess now, the 1 ton GM van is the only realistic (new) option. If I was in this position, needing to bring that many people and tow an RV trailer....I think I'd be looking for a used, older E350 Ford Van with a V10, and would just plan on spending the $$ to fix up whatever needed fixing up with it.
willald 05/24/22 07:06am Tow Vehicles
RE: Almost ready to full-time.

I'd recommend before that 3,000 mile shakedown, you take the MH and your truck to a big empty parking lot nearby, hitch it up, and turn a few laps around the parking lot. Hit brakes a few times, watch it as you make turns, etc. Make any adjustments needed, then. Once all looks and feels good, drive it on home to test it on the road. This way, you'll have a chance in a more controlled, relaxed setting (parking lot and roads close to home), to iron out any issues with the towing setup. If there is some adjustments, corrections, etc. needed, the time to make them is in a more relaxed setting *BEFORE* you leave on a long trip. This way, when you do leave for that 3,000 mile shakedown trip, you'll already have a lot of confidence that all is working as it should. We did this when we set up our Jeep to flat tow recently. Very glad we did, too, as there were some things that needed initially tweaking with the brake setup.
willald 05/19/22 08:12am Dinghy Towing
RE: Water Pressure Regulator

...we never use the pump when we have full hookups. I'd much rather use the silent water service from the camp. We've probably logged a few hundred nights with FHU and I've gone through a bunch of cheap pressure regulators, but we've never had a pressure related failure. I wouldn't hesitate to keep using a regulator and take advantage of the silent water hookup and give the pump a vacation of its own.. Good points as well. Only thing is, the water service from the campground in some cases isn't necessarily 'silent', either. On some RVs I've owned in the past, the city water inlet valve can make a buzzing noise whenever it lets water in. I'm surprised you didn't mention the other good reason for using campground water service instead of the pump - Water pressuring fluctuating up/down when pump cycles on and off. With just about every RV I've owned, if you run water continuously (like when taking a shower) with the pump, you will notice the water pressure frequently fluctuate a little every few seconds - goes up slightly when pump cycles on, pump cycles off, it goes down a little, then back up when pump cycles back on, etc. It is typically more consistent, not back and forth like that when hooked up to the campground water supply. I know some people upgrade their water pumps to models that don't do this as much, or add an accumulator tank that helps with this also. Anyway....I think this (using water pump vs campground water pressure) is one of those '6 one, half dozen the other' kind of discussions, and everyone will do it their own way, and neither one is necessarily right or wrong. :)
willald 05/19/22 08:03am General RVing Issues
RE: Water Pressure Regulator

I haven’t used one in near 20 years of RVing. Everywhere from the Rocky Mountains to the east coast and Canada to the Gulf! Always left my water on. I have one I bought along time ago because I was told I needed it. Never found a need for it. It now just sits in the bin in the water bay. Hmm....Interesting approach. All it will take is one time, for you to hook up to water at a campground with very high water pressure (like the one I was at last summer in Kentucky, where water pressure was right at 70 the whole time). By the time you realize your 'need' for it, it may be too late, as you may learn that need in the form of repairing a busted pipe and cleaning up a big mess. Seriously, dodge guy, you've been dodging a bullet there for an awful long time. I wouldn't tempt fate any more...
willald 05/18/22 09:42am General RVing Issues
RE: Water Pressure Regulator

Well, using water pump and fresh water tank all the time and not relying on campground water pressure and a pressure regulator wasn't really the original topic here, and I apologize for hijacking the thread some to discuss such. However, from reading everyone's experience with this (water pump and FW tank) approach, sounds like I may have been a bit too paranoid about water pumps wearing out, and that isn't really much of an issue. I may well just switch to using water pump, fresh water tank all the time and not worry about it. There's definitely several advantages to this, not the least of which is like already said, you can switch off the pump whenever you leave the RV and not have to worry about a pipe bursting and causing a huge mess. Consistent water pressure is nice, too.
willald 05/17/22 09:11am General RVing Issues
RE: Water Pressure Regulator

^^I agree, there is a reason the Watts regulator costs more. The RV Guard model looks like the Valterra regulator. Bad thing about a cheap model, just more expense, when you decide to toss it, and get a proven high quality one. Myself...I quit using any, just fill my 60 gal fresh tank as needed, and have a great, consistent water pressure. Nice too, in case you ever have a water leak, you catch it right away. Jerry I curious....How long have you used this approach, and how many water pumps you replaced? I like this idea, but am always hesitant to, as I'm concerned that the water pumps they put in RVs, like many other RV components, aren't meant for prolonged use. I'd be concerned that if we used the water pump all the time for everything water related like you are advocating here, we'd be replacing a lot of water pumps. How has your water pump held up under this kind of constant use?
willald 05/16/22 12:59pm General RVing Issues
RE: Black tank not draining!

Ahhh, yes, you have come across 'Poo mountain'. :) Happens when too much 'solid' is pushed into black tank and not enough liquid, resulting in said 'solids' piling up and blocking things up in the tank. Typically, the blockage takes the form of a mountain of poo right where it dumps into the black tank from the toilet. Hence the name, 'Poo mountain'. Just had a visit to Poo mountain last month myself when we were camping at the beach. Was first time in 22 years of RVing that I had such happen. Ended up having to find a pole/stick (old squeegee handle no longer needed) to 'sacrifice' and use to poke down in the toilet, to stir up and break down Poo mountain to get things flowing again. Stir/push some, pour a bunch of water through, then stir some more, more water....Did that a couple times, and eventually poo mountain 'collapsed', and dumped on out. To prevent that in the future, encourage those that use your facility that when dumping 'solids', Please make sure you run plenty of water through as well. I had to re-educate my gang on such after that incident, haha. :)
willald 05/10/22 01:55pm Class A Motorhomes
RE: Residential Fridge battery run time

The nice thing about a residential fridge is they only take a couple of hours to cool down. B.O. Another nice thing about a residential fridge is that it isn't as fussy about leveling like an absorption unit is. That, and it’s much less prone to become a fire hazard like absorption refrigerators are known to when they get a few years on them.
willald 04/30/22 04:51pm General RVing Issues
RE: Residential Fridge battery run time

...Bottom line, resi fridge unless the camper is parked at a power source 99% of the time is an effort in futility...and warm beer and soggy freezer! As one thats owned a total of 5 RVs over the course of last 22 years, 4 of which had absorption style frigs, the last of which has a residential refrigerator.....I have to respectfully disagree with this. On the contrary, a residential fridge, when set up correctly with the right battery bank, an appropriate inverter to run it, and a generator to recharge when needed....Works very, very well for someone not planning to be near electrical hookups very much (boondocking). As noted previously, I am able to run the frig up to 2 days without electrical hookup, off just batteries without ever cranking up the generator or burning any fuel. Run the generator for a few hours each day, I can run indefinitely, as long as the 80 gallon fuel tank holds up. And, when I do finally need to refuel, I just need to get gasoline, not LP gas that can be more difficult to find. With an 80 gallon fuel tank, and the generator only using 1/2 gallon per hour maximum when running full power....I could camp for almost 2 months before we would need to break camp and refuel at all. I doubt that any RV with the older absorption style frig running on LP gas could go that long without refueling. That doesn't sound to me like 'an effort in futility'. Sounds to me more like a very good setup for boondocking. I prefer this setup muuuch better over the previous RVs I had with the older absorption style refrigerator.
willald 04/29/22 12:31pm General RVing Issues
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