fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Joined: 12/14/2003
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Here's the final pic from the bottom with the drain just sitting there.
![[image]](https://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/sinkrecess7.jpg)
If you want to do something, you will find a way.
If you don't, you will find an excuse.
-------------------------------------------------
Good judgement comes from experience.
A lot of experience, comes from bad judgement.
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stripit
Prescott
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Joined: 02/24/2004
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Now that was pretty smart to use that hole saw that way. I would never have thought of that.
Stacey Frank
2016 Tiffin Allegro Bus 40AP
2019 Tesla Model X
2015 Cadillac SRX we Tow
1991 Avanti Convertible
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Joined: 12/14/2003
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stripit wrote:Now that was pretty smart to use that hole saw that way. I would never have thought of that.
I figured for a one time use, this would suffice. I only used mild steel for the extra cutting, and will probably never have a use for this size situation again.
It didn't take long to grind the angles and it worked well enough for what I needed.
Since I had coated the hole with Por 15 inside, the hole saw was a nice snug fit without wobbling around.
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Bruce Brown
Northern NY
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Joined: 06/01/2001
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Good Sam RV Club Member
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stripit wrote:Now that was pretty smart to use that hole saw that way. I would never have thought of that.
Agreed - that was pretty slick.
There are 24 hours in every day - it all depends on how you choose to use them.
Bruce & Jill Brown
2008 Kountry Star Pusher 3910
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Joined: 12/14/2003
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Something I want to mention about the cutting of the recess for the sink drain.
Here is a pic of the "cutter" I made for the hole saw. If you notice, the red arrow points to an area on the edge that is ground off on an angle.
All 4 sides of this "blade" were ground like this. I wanted to make sure that the "blade" fit the slots in the hole saw snugly.
![[image]](https://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/sinkrecess8.jpg)
The big hole was already there. This had been a piece of steel that came off of a chair and just happened to be the correct thickness to fit the slot.
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Joined: 12/14/2003
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The cutter itself was an snug fit that required some finger pressure to get in there. The screw was to apply side pressure to keep it from moving sideways, and it worked.
I am sure it's not really recommended.
![[image]](https://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/sinkrecess6.jpg)
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Joined: 12/14/2003
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Not sure how well this will show up in the pic, but the plywood around the window frame is not the same thickness as the steel framing.
The passenger side window and the drivers side window frame area. I used 3/4" plywood to hold the frame of the window in place.
The steel is 1" thick. Since 3/4" plywood is not 3/4", it will take an additional 1/4" plus 1/8" piece of plywood to make a 1" thickness.
Pet peeve of mine. 3/4 inch plywood is not 3/4 inch, 1/4 inch plywood is not 1/4 inch, and 1/8 inch plywood is not 1/8 inch. Go figure.
Ok, done with that.
I am gluing up pieces to fit around the window frame, so I can add 1/2 inch insulation, and then 1/8" plywood on the inside.
![[image]](https://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/passengerwindowframe6.jpg)
![[image]](https://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/driverswindow6.jpg)
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Joined: 12/14/2003
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This shows the area below the window, and after I get the area around the window frame to match the thickness of the steel framing, I can add 1/2 inch insulation and plywood on the inside. Wahoo!
![[image]](https://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/copilotsidewall.jpg)
Yes, both the passenger side and the drivers side need to be finished.
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Joined: 12/14/2003
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Things that make you go hmmmmm......
While doing some cleaning and re-arranging inside the moho today, I discovered this.
This is the pilots chair when the back is laid back as far as it will go.
![[image]](https://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/pilotschair.jpg)
I did not know that it would go basically all the way to a flat position.
On the other hand, this is the co-pilots chair laid all the way back.
![[image]](https://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/copilotschair.jpg)
Before you say anything, the seat was laid all the way back before I turned it to it's current position, so the dash is NOT preventing it from laying back farther.
That is as far as it would go, and then I turned it about 90 degrees clockwise to it's current position.
Therefore, I don't know if one of them has a problem, or exactly why one goes farther than the other.
Somewhere down the road, I'll have to have a closer look.
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fulltimin
Home is where we Park It.
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Joined: 12/14/2003
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This is over the pilots seating area. When I took the framing apart, I had to cut some of the fiberglass, to make sure I could remove and replace and weld the new steel in place without frying the fiberglass.
As such, I just put the first layer of fibbberglass in place tonight, in preparation to close that hole up, and be able to do a final finish of that area on the outside.
![[image]](https://paddleupstream.com/mohorebuild/driverssidefiberglass.jpg)
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