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 > 2016 Ram 3500 not disengaging 4 wheel drive low gear

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FireGuard

Ventura, Ca

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Posted: 01/12/18 03:19pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Grit dog wrote:

If you can get it in and out of 4 low, there is no problem other than a combination of not following directions, possible pressure on the drivetrain components and/or your lack of knowledge of 4wd components/operation.
So good news, nothing wrong.
Cold, wet, left in 4 low for 6 months, doesn't matter.
You don't need to rotate tires to make it work and driving it down the street for a little bit in 4 low isn't going to hurt anything (unless maybe you have 2 totally different sizes front and back).
Other good news, you're not hurting anything by using 4 low frequently, or by leaving it in 4 low overnight. There is also no need to use it to get up on a couple boards to level out the camper. So do whatever works for you.

FWIW, in my absence and my wifes apprehension during an emergency, she shifted one of our trucks into 4 low to climb up and out of our snow covered driveway (like 3' deep) and didn't shift it out of 4 lo until she got 200 miles away, half of it on dry pavement. "Honey I drove as fast as I could, but there's something wrong, truck will only go 55 mph and the engine was at 5000rpms the whole way!" Truck was fine afterwards.

Real trucks with real transfer cases and using 4 low are one of the few things that the mfgs haven't been able to idiot proof from millenials and others. They don't go in and out of 4 low with an Iphone app!

You're not hurting anything, read the directions and shift in or out of 4 low in neutral, rolling slowly, foot off the brake, totally freewheeling the drivetrain. And it will work better. Remember though, it's not a system that has been perfected. If you hear grinding kill the engine immediately, shift trans to neutral or park and re start.



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FireGuard

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Posted: 01/12/18 03:20pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hope that wasn’t your CTD she ran at 5000 RPM for 200 mi. LOL

Grit dog

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Posted: 01/12/18 05:30pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

FireGuard wrote:

Hope that wasn’t your CTD she ran at 5000 RPM for 200 mi. LOL


LOL, no. It's her truck anyways, all the vehicles are..., I get a plain brown wrapper company truck and I get the privilege of repairing and driving her vehicles on the weekends!

It was a 2001 Ram 1500 and I was stuck out of town when she got the call for a baby to adopt and subsequently blew through road closures right after the Colorado Front Range got a 3-5' dump of spring snow!
She dropped the hammer in Park County and didn't let up until Grand Junction!


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Grit dog

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Posted: 01/12/18 05:35pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

FWIW, didn't mean for my previous post to be snarky. In short, most trucks, some of the time, require some "messing" with the shift to get in or out of 4 low if not perfect conditions.
Combine that with a servo doing the shifting, it won't "muscle" the T case into another gear like a shift lever can.

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Posted: 01/12/18 06:15pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ScottG wrote:

.....
I prefer the old style lever for XFER case duties. If it doesn't come out of gear, the the only weak link to blame is the guy pulling on it.


^^^^^^ This. Knobs, frilly and fancy, suck. When they don't work, solenoid breaks, etc, which is a matter of when, not if, it is expensive and most often...extremely inconvenient.

Three trucks currently with 4x... all have levers, nary a problem in 550,000 miles combined on them.


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covered wagon

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Posted: 01/12/18 07:00pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ScottG wrote:

Picture this; the gears are gnashed together hard - lots of tension and pressure on them. Then this little electric solenoid give it a little pull. Yeah, nothing is going to happen. That solenoid just isn't strong enough.
So letting off on all that tension by either backing slightly or just letting the truck coast releases all that pressure and the wimpy solenoid can do its job.
I prefer the old style lever for XFER case duties. If it doesn't come out of gear, the the only weak link to blame is the guy pulling on it.


Yes, but that doesn't mean you shouldn't wait till the bind goes away. You shouldn't pull like Arnold, just go back or forward till the bind is neutralized. That is the right way to treat equipment.

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Posted: 01/13/18 06:33am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

covered wagon wrote:

Binding has happened to me on every 4wd that I've owned. It normal till you drive back or forth to unbind. Binding happens because the front is designed to spin a little fast than the rear differential. This affords better control in icy conditions and are all supposed to be this way.


I think you will find exactly the same ratio front and rear in any modern 4x4 truck.
But I have seen an old electric company pole truck with different ratio in front so it could steer in mud


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covered wagon

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Posted: 01/13/18 07:17am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Might be the same call out numbers for front and rear gearing to help with factory references and proper builds, but the front has to spin a wee bit faster to help control the vehicle in icy conditions.

I think it is accomplished inside the transfer case gearing.

bobbolotune

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Posted: 01/13/18 01:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

old guy wrote:

most say to back up at least 6 ft to make it easier to get out of 4 low and into 2h

I realize after reading through all of the responses again that I am still unclear on one point. Should I do this back up before or after turning the knob inside the cab from 4WD low to 2WD?


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wnjj

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Posted: 01/13/18 01:50pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

bobbolotune wrote:

old guy wrote:

most say to back up at least 6 ft to make it easier to get out of 4 low and into 2h

I realize after reading through all of the responses again that I am still unclear on one point. Should I do this back up before or after turning the knob inside the cab from 4WD low to 2WD?


The 6 feet thing is for auto hubs which is an older thing. You should switch back to 2wd when in neutral, then put in in drive and pull forward while turning the wheel a little. If it’s still in, shift to reverse and back up a bit. Usually 2-3 feet is enough.

Moving with the wheels turned means the front driveline turns further than the rear. In 4wd, that’s what causes the binding. Trying forward and reverse will unbind without knowing which way it was bound.

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