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JohnnyGood

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Posted: 02/09/18 07:51pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:

When the new alternator arrives, count the ridges in the serpentine belt grooves. Five or six.

They have to match the rest of the pulleys and the serpentine belt. The pulleys are interchangeable. The nuts are removed and replaced with a pneumatic impact wrench. Use a 15/16" standard socket as a black impact tool socket will not fit in a tight area.

Prepare the power cable.

Use eight gauge wire. It will in essence parallel the existing wire that runs from the alternator battery stud to the most convenient connection point near the battery positive terminal. To clarify, this adds a 2nd wire and two eight gauge wires equals 5 gauge which will pass 140 amps no strain. The eyelet terminal on the alternator stud is 1/4" ring terminal. Use zip ties to bond the new wire adjacent to the existing wire harness. Remember, this wire is always alive so disconnect the negative cable at the battery before starting work.

If the rear alternator housing half is "clocked" to the wrong position, making the voltage regulator plug inaccessible or difficult, you can rotate the housing yourself.

Get a paper clip and straighten a full inch length. It's got to be reasonably straight -- use pliers.

On the rear of the CS144, find the pin hole very near to the rear bearing.

Carefully worm the paper clip into the hole. Try to leverage the tip of the paper clip toward the bearing while gently pushing. There are two brushes to fit through plus the brush holder. A total of about once inch. If the paper clip does not worm it's way the full inch, stop.

If successful, the four housing bolts can be removed. They use a 5/16" wrench and are usually tightened pretty tight. Remove them.

Using a medium flat blade screwdriver approach the crack in the case halves. Leverage the case halves apart. The center laminated steel ring assembly must stay with the rear housing -- opposite the pulley side.

When it appears that it is loose pull the case halves apart. Look inside the rear half. Do you see the white plastic block? Is one or both of the brushes popped out of the brush holder? Use a "L" shaped tool to push the deepest brush down until the paper clip finds it's way through the hole in the brush. Not too deep with the paper clip -- you don't want to block the last brush spring from being pushed down.

When assembled be certain to pull out the paper clip.


Thanks for the description, Mex.

To do this conversion, it sounds like I need

1) impact wrench - I have a cordless 18 volt makita impact driver - will this work?

If not, how do I get what I need? (I also don't have a compressor)

2) a length of 8 gauge wire - how much?

Any other tools or supplies I need? I'm a contractor - so I have tools, but not mechanic's tools.

L

JohnnyGood

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Posted: 02/09/18 08:01pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Final update today (I think). I am postponing purchase of solar. I want to send y'all pics on Sunday. I'm looking at about $220 for items below.

Grape Solar Zippity Feet Z-Mount for Small Off-Grid Solar Panels

Grape Solar 15 ft. Extension Cable
Model #GS-MC4-15

Grape Solar 40 Amp PWM Solar Charge Controller with Bluetooth

Renogy 100W Watt Solar Panel Mono 12V Volt

MEXICOWANDERER

las peñas, michoacan, mexico

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Posted: 02/09/18 08:31pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Fully charged electric impact will work OK.

A breaker in the engine compartment for the house battery is a good idea. Try to locate the breaker reasonably close to where the new intertie cable branches off of the vehicle connection block where the house cable originates from.

Use nylon 1/4" rope and duct tape to hold the rope in place (you can use nylon tie wraps or whatever else works for you).

Trace the path from the alternator battery stud and use the original harness path to wend your way around to the battery positive connection point. Of course the new breaker gets installed near the connection point so end the long run of rope where you want the breaker to go.

Then continue on with a 2nd length of rope to the battery positive connection point.

Breakers have 1/4" studs, so now your count is up to (3) 8-gauge by 1/4" ring terminals. Your connect-to-the-harness at the battery terminal size is unknown to me.. Genuinedealz can make up completed cables for you. Eight gauge cable from circuit breaker to new house battery is plenty big enough


http://www.genuinedealz.com/circuit-brea........ussmann-185-series-surface-mount-100-amp

[image]

Note this style of breaker can be clicked off with the push of a button so the wire leading to the house battery can be removed at the house battery without danger of sparks. Bussman, is a dependable brand of circuit breaker.

full_mosey

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Posted: 02/10/18 06:03am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

L;

Wire sizing for battery draws can be confusing when there is an inverter involved.

An inverter is a constant Wattage device where the Watts drawn from the battery are determined by the 110VAC appliance making the draw. What happens is that battery Volts drop and Amps rise over time. Both of these factors dictate wire size and both are changing in opposite directions.

Using your cooker's 580W draw, let's see why your inverter is alarming. With a 10.5V low Volts alarm, your inverter is saying it can't get 580/10.5 = 55Amps input. That is the worst case ignoring any alternator contribution.

Alarm situation - Voltage drop percentage: 3.73%.

Shorten the wire to 16"(1.33').

Voltage drop percentage: 0.33%.

If you draw the full 2000W with 4Ga, 2000W/11V:

Voltage drop percentage: 1.09%.


Here is mine at 1000W/11V 2/0Ga 3.5' one-way:

Voltage drop percentage: 0.45%.

Try another test with best case 14.4V as you might see with the alternator where Amps would be 580/14.4 = 40A.

Since cables are a one-time cost there is good reason to go for lowest loss% in worst case situations.

HTH;
John

JohnnyGood

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Posted: 02/11/18 08:20am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thank you kindly Mex and John for the help. Hope to buy cables & components later today. I also have a new idea on the solar. Will update you/respond more later.

L

JohnnyGood

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Posted: 02/11/18 10:02am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My lifeline will be here in 2 days (ordered from Battery Guys). Any suggestions on how to care for the battery when I first get it?

(I have a voltmeter. I do not have a battery charger, although I could get one)

L

MEXICOWANDERER

las peñas, michoacan, mexico

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Posted: 02/11/18 11:14am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I'll try to condense this...

Use a meter and measure new battery voltage right-out-of-the-box

What do you see?

This is for a specific recipe for a specific battery...

JohnnyGood

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Posted: 02/11/18 04:50pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

MEXICOWANDERER wrote:

I'll try to condense this...

Use a meter and measure new battery voltage right-out-of-the-box

What do you see?

This is for a specific recipe for a specific battery...


OK - will do.

Should I abstain from using it right away (after I've measured it)?

I probably won't have the new alternator in until Friday.

If it takes me a while to get my alternator/solar setup up to speed, maybe I get a charger and charge at work once a week for a while ...

L

full_mosey

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Posted: 02/11/18 05:32pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

L;

At this time you might want to READ Chapter 5. Section 5.4 Charging.

HTH;
John

MEXICOWANDERER

las peñas, michoacan, mexico

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Posted: 02/11/18 08:05pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Page 14 second paragraph down might be more applicable when commissioning...

It would prove to be irrational in this case to wait until a charger is available. Install battery then before or after work, take it for a one-hour drive. Good enough.

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