Motorhome Magazine Open Roads Forum: Travel Trailers: Water Leak, Repair Update Feb 12th
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 > Water Leak, Repair Update Feb 12th

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Dirtpig

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Posted: 02/07/18 05:11pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I am shocked to see OSB used in place of plywood in that trailer, what was the mfg thinking!! unreal.


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BurbMan

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Posted: 02/07/18 05:42pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The mfr was thinking it was cheaper...LOL....at least they glued and stapled the OSB to the 2x3 floor joists so it stiffened it up quite a bit.

John, I used the rubber spray on my slide out repair from 2013. On the outside wall of the slide, there is a 2x4 that attaches to the slide frame and the wall sits on that. The factory had it wrapped in Darco and stapled to death...water got in there and rotted it out. I replaced that 2x4 and sprayed it the rubber coat and it's holing up well, not peeling or showing any signs of cracking or failing. I'll post a pic when I get back to this project. I have another issue I am dealing with on the slide and will post pics on that as well. It' supposed to warm up this weekend, and I should be out of the woods with this flu by then.


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JBarca

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Posted: 02/07/18 07:04pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Dirtpig wrote:

I am shocked to see OSB used in place of plywood in that trailer, what was the mfg thinking!! unreal.


Sadly, OSB is used in floor in a lot of brands. I would venture to say, most. Your Northwood may be the few left using plywood in a TT.

Oh and I like your truck!!! You may have more low end torque, but I have more cylinders.... [emoticon] And trust me she has a drinking problem. Just not a pulling problem. Yeh!


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BurbMan

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Posted: 02/12/18 09:42am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Well, more progress last week. Got the skirt back on, the baggage door in and everything re-caulked and (hopefully) water tight. Had some torrential rain here this weekend, so I rolled the slide in for that....no sense tempting fate LOL.

[image]

I was getting some water running under the tarp so I used blue painter's tape to put some cardboard over the baggage compartment when the door was off, so word of caution, don't get blue tape wet!!

As an aside, I need to find out where I can buy one of these pneumatic guns that shoots these 1-1/2" x 1/2" staples...

[image]

On to replacing the bottom sweeper seal for the slide. The bulb section on the bottom of the seal closes against the edge of the slide to keep the water out when traveling, but when the slide is open it's job is mainly to keep out the dirt, bugs, and drafts.

Taking the seal off reveals another issue...the slide floor is designed to ride on plastic blocks about 1" square. The blocks hold the slide floor off the main floor by about 5/16"and allow the slide to close with minimal friction and abrasion to the main floor. Last year we noticed that the main floor was getting quite scratched up in one section and here's why:

Here you can see one of the plastic blocks at the front of the slide. There are 5 or 6 of these blocks along the 13' length of the slide floor

[image]

Here's a close up of the next one headed toward the rear

[image]

Here's looking toward the back of the slide. You can see the scratches in the slide floor where sand got on top of the plastic block

[image]

Note looking back toward the rear of the wheel well, the slide floor is sitting directly on the main floor. Here's a closer look

[image]

You can see the gap open up again and the plastic block is intact at the rear of the slide. The framing looks straight enough, so I'm thinking maybe I either lost a plastic block in that location of the slide floor is beginning to sag? I re-did the slide floor in 2015 and the scratches just started to appear on the main floor last year.

Looking inside, I measured from the top of the slide trim to the ceiling to get an approximate idea of where the slide was, and it's sitting at 3-5/8"

[image]

Here is the rear is a different story, it's more like 4-3/8", or 3/4" lower than the front

[image]

At any rate, I could not find the little plastic blocks, so I bought a 1' x 1' x 3/8" thick piece of HDPE from Interstate Plastics. I originally thought the blocks were nylon, but it looks like like this hi-density polyethylene has replaced nylon in applications like these.

The OEM blocks are screwed into the floor with recessed screws. I had easy access with the slide floor out but not now, so I'll need to make some aluminum brackets that hold the blocks in place and attach to the frame from the side. Instead of a small block, I may do one 1" wide and 6" long since I have the material.

Plastic will be here Wed so stay tuned for next round of pics, as always comments and ideas welcome.

JBarca

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Posted: 02/12/18 05:34pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Hi Don,

Your HDPE will work for what you are doing with it. For future if you need something, UHMW will work well on that application too.

Your slide setup is a bit different than ours. Ours has a cam that lifts the slide up off the carpet on the way in. Yours looks like it slides straight in and out.

Regardless of type, the ends of the slide where the walls are takes the brunt of the load. The walls being more rigid is where the weight loads are. Ends walls and the long side wall. The center does carry some load but not like the ends.

The staple gun, When I did my slide back when, I bought an air stapler from Home Depot at the time to staple the siding back on. They may have different brands now. They change often.
[image]

Mine is not the 1/2" wide but they make them in different widths. Mine is 1/4". But it will shoot 1 1/2" long no problem. It's an air stapler and it will shoot staples through 0.70" aluminum no problem. I was amazed...
[image]

I run mine on an air regulator as with 80 psi from the compressor it will blow the staples in way to deep. You can set some of the force adjustment at the stapler for fine tuning, but for coarse adjustment you have to tone down the pressure. Just do a test piece and get to set right for what you are stapling.

If you need a little extra room to get you block in, you may be able to jack up that end of the slide 1/4 to 1/2" to allow you to put the HPDE block in easier. Let the slide out a ways to a point you can get closer to put the block in. That might be all the way out.

Get up on a ladder and look up top above the slide for how much room there is to lift before you touch slide ceiling to the side of the camper. There is generally some amount of room you can go up as the rubber seals take up the gap. Mine has a good 3/4 to 1" of room.

If you are going to lift it, put the jack at the end walls, again that is where the strength it.
[image]

Jack stands to hold the slide after jacking
[image]

Hope this helps.

John

BurbMan

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Posted: 02/13/18 10:51am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Our old Sunnybrook had a similar set up, they called it a "flush floor" slideout, so when it extended it dropped down and made a flat floor with the inside. When you retracted, it used a cam mechanism to raise the slide floor back up away from the main floor. This slide is straight in/out, was disappointed that the cheaped out on this feature.

I have a couple of staplers too, one shoots T40 staples but those only come 9/16" long max. The other is a narrow crown stapler that will shoot 1" long staples but they are only 3/16 wide, mainly used for carpet work. Will have to look in HD for the one you have.

Good pics on the slide support, that's exactly how I jacked the front of the slide up when I replaced the rotten part of the main floor. Bottle jack and a 4x4, I can go up almost an inch to get the new blocks in there.

Your are right about the front/rear of the slide taking the load from the slide walls, and I thought it was interesting that the gap in the back was still there but the floor seemed to be sagging in the middle.

Forgot to post, this is the new flooring that's going in, vinyl click lock plank from Costco LINK.

[image]

JBarca

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Posted: 02/13/18 03:58pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

BurbMan wrote:

Our old Sunnybrook had a similar set up, they called it a "flush floor" slideout, so when it extended it dropped down and made a flat floor with the inside. When you retracted, it used a cam mechanism to raise the slide floor back up away from the main floor. This slide is straight in/out, was disappointed that the cheaped out on this feature.


Yes, that's it. I forgot you had the SunnyBrook. Yes, they used that same concept. It costs a little more to build them that way, but they work well.

Your flooring looks nice.

Your gaining... Keep up the good work.

John

beemerphile1

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Posted: 02/13/18 05:58pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Harbor Frieght is a good place to get tools like a stapler that won't get used much.

As to the repairs; Been There Done That. Twice!

Water gets in and is trapped while it turns the OSB to powder.


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