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 > The best hand Electric Trailer Dolly for the money & why?

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Gdetrailer

PA

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Posted: 02/12/18 07:13pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

deltabravo wrote:

I still can't see how it's going to be possible to move a long long trailer around in your yard, where you said in your other thread that there's a 90 degree turn shown here:

Blanco1 wrote:

I basically have a 90 degree turn I need to make & the neighbors fence is directly across from my driveway.


[image]


Blanco, I am not trying to be a jerk.

Just trying to point out the flaws in your plans.

Questions about these powered dollys do come up from time to time.

Only a few times someone says they own one AND LIKE IT..

Every one of the ones I have looked at, the designs range from frightening dangerous to just plain deadly.

Number one, they do not provide braking, some offer as an option add on brake control of the trailer.

Most designs are two wheels, requiring YOU to "leverage" the tongue every time you start or stop. Plain dangerous and puts a lot of strain on the ball AND the hitch. Found a couple that have a third wheel to create a "tripod" that might be workable but still I would never consider them.

These movers are light weight, your trying to move 8K or more lbs with a device that at the most weighs 200-300 lbs, seems like a huge mismatch.

I have a great respect for a trailer that weighs even 2K lbs on wheels, they can easily run over you or into other objects or people.

Most are equipped with treadless wheels, a few offer an upgrade of treaded wheels which would be a better idea.

A few use a single 12V battery, doubtful even with a big gear reduction it would move 8K lbs and if it did would be only a couple of minutes at a time between charges.

A few use 36V battery, that would be much better but you will have to maintain those batteries and replacement is not going to be cheap.

Found a couple that use 120V AC, gets past the short comings of batteries cost time and maintenance but now you will need a long heavy duty extension cord (12Ga at a min) and it now becomes a tripping hazard to you and most likely a target of the trailer mover running over it.

There is no "power steering", you can only easily "turn" them when they are MOVING. This WILL affect how tight you can turn unless you have muscles of steel and boundless energy.

To see how hard it will be, try turning your steering of a vehicle with the ENGINE NOT RUNNING AND THE VEHICLE PARKED.. Takes considerably MORE EFFORT without power and not moving.. And that is with a steering gear box with something like 3-4 to one "advantage"..

They are expensive to say the least, looks like $1,800 for a basic model with not trailer braking and standard tires.. Most likely by the time you upgrade everything you will be well over $3K.

Then consider this, to me, they ALL look like some junior shade tree mechanic built them at night with a few basic hand tools (they don't look professionally designed or built).

If the dolly breaks while your trailer is not fully inside your lot, what will you do?

Not sure how you plan to "test" different trailers, if you think the dealers are going to let you "borrow" a trailer, better think again.. They don't need the sale that bad and it would be foolish for a dealer to allow someone to take their inventory just to see if it fits the potential buyers parking space.

From your pix, I am going to point you in a different direction.

I think that you NEED to reconsider your plan.

You need to forget about parking a trailer in your lot and pay a storage place.

YES, it IS an "expense" to pay for storage, but hey, that IS sometimes the cost to play if you really must have a RV. And sometimes you cannot place a price on YOUR or other peoples safety..

Or, if your really don't want to pay for storage then consider a small motor home..

Class "C" or "B" motor homes most likely would be the better choice in your case. Both are typically based off of Cargo van chassis so as long as you can drive a vehicle into your lot you most likely could get a "C" or "B" RV in there. Expensive, yep, they can be but then again, can you put a price on your life?

* This post was edited 02/12/18 07:19pm by Gdetrailer *

Blanco1

Los Angeles

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Posted: 02/12/18 08:14pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My Step son owns a 10K Trailer Valet Dolly & he is going to let me borrow it & I have plenty of access to trailers being I work in the film biz as a Teamster & we all have trailers & trucks & etc.

So I'm sure access to a trailer is not a problem.

I'm going to borrow my sons Trailer Valet & take it to move a few trailers & see what I think?

NO I WILL NOT PAY TO STORE IT!

I've backed hooked up to my Bronco, a boat & a open car trailer into my back yard.
So if worse comes to worse I'll just go with a smaller Trailer.


1997 Dodge 4x4, 5 spd manual trans & HotRod 5.9 cummins.
With '85 Lance.

Lantley

Ellicott City, Maryland

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Posted: 02/12/18 09:46pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Have you considered a used forklift? How much is a beater forklift?

A couple low budget models are available

Ebay forklifts


07Duramax w/hips,12Open Range,Titan Disc Brake
H-head TPMS,BD3,K-Bee exhaust brake,RV safepower
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campingken

Sequim Wa.

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Posted: 02/13/18 02:05pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We have a Parkit 360 electric dolly that is made in Canada. It runs on 24 Volt RV battery (has a built in charger) and the model we have will push 10,000 pounds. We use it to put our horse trailer into our barn. The units work best on asphalt or concrete.

T


Ken & Kris + Heidi the dog
Sequim, Wa.
2003 Dodge 3500 SRW 4x4 diesel
2017 Trails West Sierra Select 2 Horse slant load trailer

brainjetst1

San Diego

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Posted: 08/11/18 03:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Have you tried a Powermover trailer dolly by kaad Engineering

smokamoto

usa

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Posted: 08/11/18 06:34pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I use the $600 Trailer Valet XL with my 4,400# TT and it works well. It is rated for 10k# but I wouldn’t want to go there. I added a switch wired to the trailer brakes for safety as the built-in brake is clumsy to operate.
The new hands-free remote control Trailer Valet looks nice however it’s $1,200!

brainjetst1

San Diego

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Posted: 08/12/18 11:57am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Has anyone used a powermover dolly from kaad

Blanco1

Los Angeles

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Posted: 08/12/18 08:04pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

smokamoto wrote:

I use the $600 Trailer Valet XL with my 4,400# TT and it works well. It is rated for 10k# but I wouldn’t want to go there. I added a switch wired to the trailer brakes for safety as the built-in brake is clumsy to operate.
The new hands-free remote control Trailer Valet looks nice however it’s $1,200!


How did you add the Trailer Brakes switch?
The factory one seems to work well, but does make me nervous considering my Trailer weighs almost 7K Lbs.

I've gotten better at not needing it but do like having it as an option & fits well in my Pass Through storage.

smokamoto

usa

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Posted: 08/13/18 12:06pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Blanco1 wrote:

smokamoto wrote:

I use the $600 Trailer Valet XL with my 4,400# TT and it works well. It is rated for 10k# but I wouldn’t want to go there. I added a switch wired to the trailer brakes for safety as the built-in brake is clumsy to operate.
The new hands-free remote control Trailer Valet looks nice however it’s $1,200!


How did you add the Trailer Brakes switch?
The factory one seems to work well, but does make me nervous considering my Trailer weighs almost 7K Lbs.

I've gotten better at not needing it but do like having it as an option & fits well in my Pass Through storage.


I used a hose clamp to secure a bracket with a switch to the dolly handle, powered from the tongue jack fuse right there up front. Made a wire harness and connected the switch to the trailer’s blue wire for the brakes. Works well and I feel much safer using it. The dolly does take a learning curve to operate but for me it’s more than paid for itself. It stays home I don’t use it on trips, it’s 60 pounds.

Papa Steve

Fullerton, CA

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Posted: 08/13/18 12:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have a Power Caster PC-3. I bought it to pull my 7000 lb. trailer into my driveway (so the door would face the house). My street and driveway are fairly level, and are paved and cement. There is a small "hill" going into the driveway.

The PC-3 pulled it just fine. Takes a while, though. Also, the brakes do need to be hooked up. The PC-3 will not stop a moving trailer. I did have to use quite a bit of muscle to turn the PC-3 with the tongue weight (even when moving).

The PC-3 has a cup the fits your trailer's tongue jack post: I didn't like that, so I built a bracket that bolted and used a ball to attach to the trailer. The bracket had a post that went into the PC-3's cup.

They are pricey, but it does work very well.


Steve

2016 GMC 2500HD duramax 4x4
2018 Cougar 311RES

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