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 > Dometic RM46E 3-way RV Refrigerator Over Cooling

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bentSpaceTime

Reno, NV

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Posted: 02/11/18 02:41pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Chris Bryant wrote:

Because the thermostat is modulating the flame, I doubt it has lost its charge, unless it only modulates at the very bottom of its range.
Have you checked the lip pressure? I would sure start with that.
I'm pretty sure I have several of those v35 thermostats, if I can find them.


How do you check the lip pressure?

bentSpaceTime

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I was trying to check the operation on 120 volts, but the knob that switches from gas to electric is missing. It's the kind where you turn it the the right for electric and then push it in and turn it further. Any idea if 120 is all the way turned to the right vs. 12 volts?

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Posted: 02/11/18 04:59pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Does moving the capillary tubes up and down on the fresh food evaporator fins do anything, as far as adjusting the temperature in the cabinet?

dougrainer

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Posted: 02/12/18 05:42am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

bentSpaceTime wrote:

Does moving the capillary tubes up and down on the fresh food evaporator fins do anything, as far as adjusting the temperature in the cabinet?

No. Those metal tubes get VERY brittle over time and you have to be extremely careful when moving them. It does not take much to crack one and then the tstat is useless. Doug

dougrainer

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Posted: 02/12/18 05:43am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

bentSpaceTime wrote:

Chris Bryant wrote:

Because the thermostat is modulating the flame, I doubt it has lost its charge, unless it only modulates at the very bottom of its range.
Have you checked the lip pressure? I would sure start with that.
I'm pretty sure I have several of those v35 thermostats, if I can find them.


How do you check the lip pressure?


You connect a Manometer and when it goes to bypass causing the LP pressure to drop. That is how a bypass LP tstat works. Doug

Chris Bryant

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Posted: 02/12/18 07:31am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks Doug- darned autocorrect!

The easiest thing to check is, with the refrigerator down to temperature (cold), does the gas thermostat modulate the flame in the middle of the travel, or just right at the very bottom? If it only makes the flame smaller right at the bottom, it's bad. If it is in the middle of the range, we can work with it.


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bentSpaceTime

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Posted: 02/12/18 06:52pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Chris Bryant wrote:

Thanks Doug- darned autocorrect!

The easiest thing to check is, with the refrigerator down to temperature (cold), does the gas thermostat modulate the flame in the middle of the travel, or just right at the very bottom? If it only makes the flame smaller right at the bottom, it's bad. If it is in the middle of the range, we can work with it.

What do you mean by travel?

Chris Bryant

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Posted: 02/13/18 01:00pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

bentSpaceTime wrote:

Chris Bryant wrote:

Thanks Doug- darned autocorrect!

The easiest thing to check is, with the refrigerator down to temperature (cold), does the gas thermostat modulate the flame in the middle of the travel, or just right at the very bottom? If it only makes the flame smaller right at the bottom, it's bad. If it is in the middle of the range, we can work with it.

What do you mean by travel?


The range between full counter clockwise ( warmest), and full clockwise (coldest).
The thermostat will modulate the flame to low at full counter clockwise, even if it has lost its charge, but we want to see if it will modulate at "working" setting, right in the middle of its range.

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