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 > New Equal-i-zer Hitch

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WayneAt63044

St. Louis, MO

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Posted: 02/11/18 02:25pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My E4 rated at 1,000/10,000 lbs has cracked and requires replacement. Considering the GVWR of my trailer is 7,800 lbs and 15% tongue weight is nearly 1,200 lbs, should I replace it with one rated at 1,200/12,000 or 1,400/14,000?

I'm leaning toward the 1,400 but seek your wisdom/experience. Will the 1,400 be too much & affect the ride or stress the trailer frame or hitch receiver?

(Dealer installed the 1,000 5 years ago when I purchased the trailer.)


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Dick_B

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Posted: 02/11/18 02:36pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

My wisdom suggests calling Equal-i-zer.


Dick_B
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old guy

Oregon (pronounced Or e gun)

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Posted: 02/11/18 03:10pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I don't know why you think a 1400 is overkill. I used a 1200 for years on my little TT and it did the job just great.

beemerphile1

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Posted: 02/11/18 03:54pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I wouldn't be surprised if the manufacturer recommends the 1000/10000. I bet they would like more info about this cracked one and may replace for free, they should not crack.


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JBarca

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Posted: 02/11/18 04:09pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Have you actually weighed the loaded tongue weight of the camper? Size it according to the actual loaded TW to be equal too or greater.

Unless you weigh it, you really do not know how heavy it is. It could be over 15% or under. My prior 7,000# GVWR rated camper had a 20% loaded TW.

Dealers have been know to supply a WD hitch too small for a loaded camper floor plan. The day it left their shop it may have been OK. Then you start loading it and it can then be too small. Unless they do some kind of study on actual loaded TW campers per floor plan by know their customers who use them, they really have no idea either.

If you find your loaded TW requires an upgrade in hitch size, make sure you check the rating of the receiver on the truck that it can handle the upgrade. Also check the rear axle rating on the truck too.

Every time a camper and truck is weighed there is often a surprize, wow how did it get that heavy? Darn stuff just plain adds up...

Hope this helps

John


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ScottG

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Posted: 02/11/18 05:06pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

That's just about right where i am and I needed to go to a 1400# spring bar.
Even if you don't "need" it, you will be well within the weight range for a 1400.


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WayneAt63044

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Posted: 02/11/18 05:25pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I had the whole thing on a scale a couple of years ago and was over the RAWR by 100 lbs and trailer axles were 1,000 under combined. No load changes since. Thanks for the advice; reckon I'll call Equal-i-zer tomorrrow.

WayneAt63044

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Posted: 02/11/18 05:36pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

The Equal-i-zer "find your hitch size" website indicates I need the 1,400 version. I live near eTrailer so will go that route; cheaper than the manufacturer's website. Thanks all!

TundraTower

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Posted: 02/11/18 06:54pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

15% tongue weight seems high. Mfr suggests 10% minimum and most folks seem to prefer 11-12%. My trailer is about the same weight and I have a 1/10K EQ hitch with 925-975 lbs. tongue wt. by the Sherline scale depending on what we pack. Works fine.

I discovered my "sockets" (the female square tube receivers on the truck part of the hitch) were cracked at the corners. I discovered this 3 days before we left for a 3,600 mile run to Colorado. I called Progressive Industries and sent pictures. They over-nighted new sockets for free, but actually said cracks in that area were not unusual. Then he asked me to go check the length of the shank on my hitch ball and see if it extended below the flat plate.

Sure enough the dealer had installed a ball with a shank too long. In a hard turn, the sockets hit the shank and can't rotate any further, but while the truck/trailer are still rotating further. He said this is what caused my cracks. They see it a lot because the shank length they require is a bit hard to find.

A structural failure on a hitch this heavy would really be alarming. Suggest you see if the shank of your hitch ball extends below the surface of the top plate where the sockets rotate.


2013 Tundra, 5.7FF, TRD, 4WD, tow pkg
2014 Forest River Cherokee 264
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103 nights & 12,700 miles since April '13

ScottG

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Posted: 02/11/18 07:03pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Good to know!

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