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blofgren

Surrey, B.C.

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Posted: 04/24/18 10:21pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

SDcampowneroperator wrote:

Lifting the trailer will add a lot of lateral stress to its frame. Weld in a substantial X member between the rear axle shackle hangers to negate those forces.
Its the 'wag the dog' flexing effect as well as fatigue in your frame that could lead to frame failure of the spring hangers breaking away from the frame.


This is exactly right. I ended up with a poor handling trailer and some cracks in the frame where various items were welded to it. Had a welder weld in 3 - 2"x3" boxed steel between the sping hangers with 2" square tubing welded from them up on angles to the frame with fishplates, and weld up the cracks in the frame. Problem solved and the trailer handles like night and day.


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Super_Dave

Harrisville, UT

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Posted: 04/25/18 07:08am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

What is driving you to feel you need to raise the trailer? My trailer sits a couple inches nose high. I was told it wasn’t a big deal. Is it?


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Ski Pro 3

Placerville, CA

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Posted: 04/25/18 10:45am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

A couple things come to mind Dave;
1. From your signature photo, I can see that the tail of the 5er is much closer to the ground than if it were level. Could cause a drag going over drive entrances, and such I suppose.
2. On level ground, the 5er is not level. All other things considered, a leveled 5er is instantly usable without need to unhook to level.
3. I've seen the bed rails of a few trucks damaged from a 5er that was low. In fact, that's why my buddy and I lifted his.


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lee worsdell

elmvale

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Posted: 04/25/18 12:35pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I did it on my rushmore had a spring shop put in a 2 inch block to level up. works good

mtofell1

Oregon

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Posted: 04/26/18 08:23am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I looked into it and would be comfortable going 1-2" with blocks if that's all you need. More than that and I think you need sub-frame. Mine does tow a bit nose high which I'm just living with. I have plenty of bed rail clearance. My main issue is the back end dragging sometimes.

Blazing Zippers

North Idaho

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Posted: 04/28/18 11:18pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We raised our Cougar--a trailer manufacturer nearby raised it 3 inches with a boxed frame. It cost about $1200.00. It handles well, but does require an after market step for my bride to get in and out.
One side note--we are just about max height (13'2") and need to be aware of obstacles.

JIMNLIN

Oklahoma

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Posted: 04/29/18 05:50am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Having pulled trailers for a living I've seen the results of adding suspension blocks to trailers. Some were disasters down the road. I've raised three rv trailers....one was a axle flip.......another a subframe lift.....and adding 3/8" X 3"wide X 12"long steel gusseted plates with adjustable holes to both sides cross braced on a stacked tube frame tandem axles.
I don't know of any trailer mfg or axle mfg who uses suspension blocks or recommends them nor are they offered as a option on multiaxle trailers.
A 1-800 to Dexter engineers and Rockwell American axle mfg says they don't recommend suspension blocks because of side stresses while turning.

For those that don't understand the difference in a trailers suspension stress vs a trucks suspension a google on that subject can enlighten you on those differences.


"good judgment comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgment" ............ Will Rogers

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meadows

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Posted: 10/11/18 06:05pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Update, I found a spring shop that can take 3 short springs that are for lift only total 1 1/2 inches and re arch my current springs for a total of around 4 inch drop of the rear of the truck. May not need a modification to fiver. The spring shop is the go to place in our area and work on everything from 1/2 tons to cement trucks. Estimated cost $300.

Ski Pro 3

Placerville, CA

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Posted: 10/11/18 10:23pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

A four inch drop is going to have to reconfigure a lot more than just suspension. Brake lines, drive lines will need to be shortened. Shocks will need to be resized for the shorter suspension travel. How much space between the axle and the rubber stops anyways? If it's, say, 6 inches and you just lowered the rear 4 of them, you are left with 2 inches of travel.
In order to balance the front, you'll have to lower it as well, affecting some steering components. Think this option all the way through before going forward.

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meadows

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Posted: 10/12/18 07:21am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Ski Pro 3 wrote:

A four inch drop is going to have to reconfigure a lot more than just suspension. Brake lines, drive lines will need to be shortened. Shocks will need to be resized for the shorter suspension travel. How much space between the axle and the rubber stops anyways? If it's, say, 6 inches and you just lowered the rear 4 of them, you are left with 2 inches of travel.
In order to balance the front, you'll have to lower it as well, affecting some steering components. Think this option all the way through before going forward.
truck has 8-9 inches of travel. 4 inches will have no effects on the systems you mentioned. Squating my truck to bumper stops would take well over 6000 lbs. my pin weight is less than 2000 lbs and only squats the truck 1/2 inch. Thanks for the advise but the modification will have no effect on the other systems and In fact will level the truck. These new trucks are way to tall imho. Thanks

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