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 > Bedroom slide breaking shear pins

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Diplomat_St_Poodles

Vancouver Island BC, Canada

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Posted: 09/27/18 01:23pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

enblethen wrote:

I would look to see if the slide(s) are not adjusted correctly. When they get nearly closed the systems jambs up and breaks the shear pins.
You need to locate the make and model of the slide mechanism.


The slide goes in and out very easily. When the shear pin breaks I can push it without much difficulty. It has no gaps showing on the outside of the MH when it is in.

I did some measurements and both side seem even.

I think the slides were made by RBW Industries but there is nothing on them that says that. Just going by what I have seen on other forums.

Nothing seems obvious except it doesn’t stop when it gets to the end. The other 2 slides work fine. This one did as well till now.

* This post was edited 09/27/18 01:47pm by Diplomat_St_Poodles *


2005 GB Cruise Air XL DP
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enblethen

Moses Lake, WA

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Posted: 09/27/18 02:20pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Does your shear pins look like these Roll pin
RBW indicates that you have a Brake motor. This could be coming on for some reason while the slide is still moving in.


Bud
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fairway2002

Michigan

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Posted: 09/27/18 02:54pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If I was trouble shooting. I would start with the plug marked signal. Maybe a open and closed sw. with using the body as a ground. Should be an easy test.

Good Luck

Diplomat_St_Poodles

Vancouver Island BC, Canada

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Posted: 09/27/18 03:02pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

enblethen wrote:

Does your shear pins look like these Roll pin
RBW indicates that you have a Brake motor. This could be coming on for some reason while the slide is still moving in.


I have tried two types of shear pins. The roll type and the solid type. Both have failed.

I had to remove the motor to replace the pin so we bench tested the brake. It comes on and off as specified. When you press the override button on the control panel you can hear the click of the brake release.

Great ideas though. Thanks for responding.

As you can see we have investigated many things and are still stumped. Being careful not to hit the limit when we are putting it in and out works but there must be something we are missing. I can use it this way but would like it to work correctly. Frustrating to say the least.

Diplomat_St_Poodles

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Posted: 09/27/18 03:13pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

fairway2002 wrote:

If I was trouble shooting. I would start with the plug marked signal. Maybe a open and closed sw. with using the body as a ground. Should be an easy test.

Good Luck


Our next step was to check the control module wiring. But before doing so I contacted the manufacturer American Technology and they are saying that there is nothing built into their controller that limits or stops the slide. They thought it might be a switch in the motor but as far as we can see the only thing on the motor is the brake. Odd though because other controllers similar to mine say dual slideout current controller. They look very similar to mine.

fairway2002

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Posted: 09/27/18 03:33pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

signal probably just control switches after looking closer

J-Rooster

Port Orchard, Wa. / Lake Havasu City, Az.

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Posted: 09/27/18 06:48pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

DSP; I don’t believe that I can help you! But I did break a shear pin one time in 2003 I was retracting my slide out in my 1999 Fleetwood and the slide out roller went over a small thin children’s book. I was going up that steep hill just before you get to Yosemite and my slide out extended out when I went around a corner. I didn’t have my slide out lock in place. After locking the slide into place I went to a RV repair shop and got the shear pin replaced. The RV Mechanic told me that the slide out has to be perfectly level with no obstructions in the way of the rollers, rollers free from debris and no binding in the slides (alignment). Good Luck, Rooster

Rick Jay

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Posted: 09/27/18 08:40pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have that same control module on our dual slide GBM motorhome. If you made it this far without that module acting up, you're doing well. Mine started acting up after about the 3rd year of ownership, but part of that was because the GBM techs didn't adequately tighten the ground connections for the module and about 6 inchs of the copper ground wire charred up.

Then, a couple of the relays started becoming intermittent. When I went to replace them, the printed circuit board looked like it had been soldered by a complete newbie to a soldering iron. I replaced all of the relays and resoldered every connection, PLUS cleaned up all of the wires at the connectors. It's been working great for about the last 8 or 9 years, and just the other day started acting up. I think it's another cold solder joint issue 'cause when I slam the controller, it worked.

Now, as far as it having a current sensor, I AM and electrical engineer and if it doesn't have one, I would be very, very surprised. The system acts EXACTLY as if that module senses over-current conditions when the motor begins to load down. When the slide motor reaches the end of it's travel, the motor starts slowing down and the relay in the module cuts off the power. I've NEVER broken a shear pin on one of my slide motors. (I have had a mounting boss on one of the motors break off...because the tech at GBM mounted it with a screw that was too long and bottomed out in the boss...but I digress! :-) )

I ordered one of their "replacement" modules before I tried to fix mine, but while waiting for it to arrive, I got mine working, so I just put their replacement away. Well, just for ha-ha's a couple of years ago, I tried connecting it to see if it would work. NOTHING! And the replacement is a potted assembly so you can't tamper with it. Grrrr!!! Oh well, I ate that expense.

I'll try to pull my controller out this weekend and take a closer look at the components on it, but I'm pretty sure it DOES sense current load. I'll verify that it has the circuity in it this weekend.

As for the people who designed that controller? I wouldn't trust them as far as I can throw 'em. My plan for this winter is to replace my aging controller module with a little 12VDC PLC.

Not sure if ANY of this helps, but I DO think that module should disconnect the power to the motor when the motor reaches the end of its travel BEFORE any pins break. Of course, it is possible the wrong grade shear pins have been installed. Then I guess you would experience broken pins before the module cuts off the power.

Oh, I almost forgot...did you say you have to push two buttons to operate each slide? The motors on our motorhome have electric brakes on the shaft of each motor. Our control panel has one switch for IN/OUT and one for BRAKE RELEASE (or some such) for each slide. You should only have to press the brake release button when you try to crank in the slides manually. It will release the brake so cranking can be done more easily. The brake SHOULD release automatically by the controller when you extend/retract the slide with the IN/OUT switch.

At least, I'm pretty sure that's how they worked. Give me to the weekend to take a closer look and refresh my memory a bit.

Good Luck,

~Rick


2005 Georgie Boy Cruise Master 3625 DS on a Workhorse W-22
Rick, Gail, 1 girl (21-Angel, Lexi96.org), 1 girl (16), 2 boys (18 & 15). Two Chinook dogs, 14 & 12.
2001 Honda Odyssey, Demco Aluminator tow bar & tow plate, SMI Silent Partner brake controller.


Diplomat_St_Poodles

Vancouver Island BC, Canada

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Posted: 09/27/18 10:48pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for all the info Ruck. Looking forward to finding out if this controller has a current sensor.

dougrainer

Carrolton, Texas

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Posted: 09/28/18 06:29am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

This is what I posted to you on a private message. Doug
There are 2 types. A Shear PIN and a Shear BOLT. BOTH have to be hardened steel. The Bolt has to have a non threaded shaft that engages the motor shaft and gear. The Shear PIN, must be steel with the strength to handle the force of the drive. If they use standard Pins, they will shear off. The design is, when the room is fully extended or retracted, the Shear Pin will handle the stress. But, yes, it is best to monitor your operation and STOP the second the room is fully extended or retracted. Does your motor/trans assbly make the Ratchet noise when fully extended or retracted?
Now, I don't understand why some seem to insist that the controller has some type of limit. Some do and some DON'T. The ones that do usually have an adjustment POT on the board with an access hole to adjust it. MOST slide rooms have either a Mechanical STOP or a Rachet clutch in the Motor/Transmission to keep from over torqueing the system and shearing off pins and bolts. Another thing that shears bolts and pins is, if you have ANY slop when installing the bolt or shear pin, that will cause a Shear action to cut the pin/bolt. Can you post a pic of the Motor/drive where the shear pin is located? Doug

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