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 > Condensation on upper inside walls ral cold morn

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rhagfo

Portland, OR

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Posted: 10/01/18 08:00am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Get a small dehumidifier, not dry-z-air, and electric unit. We have zero condensation in cold damp locations, spent six months at the Oregon Coast.


Russ & Paula
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2001 Dodge 2500 4X4, 5.9 Cummins, NV4500, 3.55's, Pacbrake PRXB, DS Power Puck,RV 275's Bilstein 5100's, 313K miles.
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pianotuna

Regina, SK, Canada

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Posted: 10/01/18 08:01am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

luberhill,

The cause of the condensation is the walls are below the dew point temperature. If the walls can be made warm enough the problem disappears. Running a fan to circulate air may help to raise the temperature on the surface of the wall.

One other solution is to reduce the relative humidity inside the RV.

The easiest way to do that is to open a roof vent a bit, find the furthest window from the vent and open that a bit. An electric heater near the window will improve that and keep you warmer. I'd suggest a low wattage radiant type, or a small oil filled (if the oil filled can be on a shelf so the air from the window passes over the fins.)

I know opening a vent and window when it is cold seems counter intuitive, but it does work.

Another possible solution is an electric dehumidifier--but the cooler it is the poorer they work. They are generally energy hogs, some what bulky and definitely noisy.


Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp hours of AGM in two battery banks 12 volt batteries, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

2oldman

Salton Sea

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Posted: 10/01/18 08:02am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

luberhill wrote:

Has to be a better way
You need to examine the sources of moisture, other than breathing. Cooking, long showers..etc

SoundGuy

S Ontario

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Posted: 10/01/18 08:05am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

luberhill wrote:

So can I just open a ceiling vent in the bathroom to allow movement ?
It just seems opening a window when it’s 49 degs and raining out is adding to it
Having to run the ac fan all the time would have me selling this thing tomorrow.
Running a vent fan all the time would be heating the outside and cause the furnace to run all the time...
Has to be a better way


Well at least you're providing humour to the day with your many posts. [emoticon] As a newbie you've been recently posting quite a bit about RVing issues that may be totally new to you but are old news to the rest of us who have been at this for awhile. Sidecar said it best - "How it works, like it or not." Believe it - you're no different than the rest of us and the solutions to these various issues won't be any different for you than they are for us. In this particular situation actively venting the trailer is the answer. [emoticon]

SageCrispin

Middle Tennessee

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Posted: 10/01/18 08:11am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I just looked back at your profile. We lived south of Syracuse for 50 years. You might want to reduce the fan temp that I mentioned to 75 or 70, or you might not move enough air when you're not around. IMO, real damage occurs when people leave their RV closed up tight when not in use after an outing and they leave all the produced moisture trapped inside.


We've run out in the house, but the RV has two.

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luberhill

syracuse

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Posted: 10/01/18 08:23am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

What do you mean the “fan temp” ??
I have a small elect heater the po left...I turned the heat down last night to 63 maybe I should leave it at 70 ??
I know I’m ocd and the damp I feel is about an inch wide path on the very top of the wall where it meets the ceiling.
Just in the back bedroom and in the shower.
Again it rained hard all night last night but I didn’t have a window or vent open but all the heavy shades were closed
I set the fan on the Dometic stat to low so the ac fan comes on when the furnace does but it doesn’t shut off when the furnace does
It also makes it drafty cold feeling


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ksg5000

Oregon

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Posted: 10/01/18 08:35am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We always crack a roof vent - yeah we lose some heat but two adults and dogs create alot of moisture. We also run an electric heater which has a good fan ... keeps condensation to a minimum.


Kevin

SageCrispin

Middle Tennessee

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Posted: 10/01/18 08:38am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

luberhill wrote:

What do you mean the “fan temp” ??


I have adjustable exhaust fans (thermostat and opening) in the bathroom and living room. I use them to keep the air moving. I set them to automatic when not using the RV. When on a trip I run them manually, moving the moisture laden air out during the day. At night, I leave them cracked open, but leave the fan off, letting the humidity rise somewhat overnight so as not to feel "drafty". Then during the day, open them wide and get fresh air into the RV. For me, the AC has nothing to do with this, and I do not use it at all when the furnace is on. There are many ways to this end, but the upshot is, you must get fresh air into the RV and keep the humidity as low as possible.

TurnThePage

North ID

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Posted: 10/01/18 08:58am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If you're running on electricity, just get a dehumidifier. However, a little condensation overnight is no big deal as long as you are rid of it soon after waking.


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ktmrfs

Portland, Oregon

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Posted: 10/01/18 10:23am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

rhagfo wrote:

Get a small dehumidifier, not dry-z-air, and electric unit. We have zero condensation in cold damp locations, spent six months at the Oregon Coast.


exactly. you've got several things working against you.
1) same amount of perspiration etc. as in a house but less air volume
2) anytime you run the stove for every gallon of propane burned you are putting almost 1 gallon of water in the air
3) even with fans on you get added moisture when showering.
4) less insulation than a sticks and bricks.

All this means a higher indoor humidity than sticks and bricks, combined with lower insulation, much easier to hit the dew point on any cool surface. Windows, walls, ceiling etc.

As long as you have 120V available run a small compressor driven dehumidifier 24/7. When at the oregon coast we will pull 5+ gallons of water out of the air in the first 12 hours, then it drops down. But if we come in with damp clothes or humidity goes up, the amount the dehumidifier pulls out goes up. And still open vents when showering etc.

AND. it keeps the windows from fogging up in the morning as well.

Best $100 you will spend


2011 Keystone Outback 295RE
2004 14' bikehauler with full living quarters
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2004.5 Silverado 4x4 CC/SB Duramax/Allison passed on to our Son!


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