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wnjj

Cornelius, Oregon

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Posted: 10/08/18 09:23am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

enblethen wrote:

Genset is not an inverter style so the neutral should be tied inside.
I would start over with nothing plugged into genset and verify it is wired correctly.
Also be aware the 30 amp receptacle could be 240 volt!!! That is according to reading but genset is marked 120 RV.
Something is definitely wrong with specs!


Tied inside makes sense, but what I meant was that the 20A receptacles selected one of the output legs as neutral and the 30A receptacle selected the opposite one. Since it is unbonded neutral vs hot is arbitrarily but once one of them hits a receptacle it isn’t anymore.

Check for continuity between the upper left pins on the 20A receptacles and the lower right one on the 30A. If they are not connected the genset is wired wrong and I would fix it.

I’m guessing there are pairs of like colored wires that just get connected to the receptacles without regard for hot/neutral.

185EZ

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Posted: 10/08/18 10:36am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

There's continuity between all of them.
upper left on the 20A and lower right and left on 30A
same with upper right pins on 20A and continuity between lower right and left on 30A
also continuity between all grounds

Yes it's a misprint of 240V in the specs.
There isn't even a switch for it.
The old Durostar had the 240V switch and that was one of the reasons I wanted the EMS in case the switch was accidently turned on

enblethen

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Posted: 10/08/18 10:46am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Did you start and test the output of the genset? The little plug in tester works good for this. Use an adapter to test the 30 amp TT receptacle.


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185EZ

Lake Havasu City, AZ

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Posted: 10/08/18 10:52am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ordered tester yesterday because I can't find mine.

pnichols

The Other California

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Posted: 10/08/18 05:32pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

This thread reminds me of a similar problem in our RV.

When drycamping sometimes we fire up our small 650 watt Honda non-inverter generator to charge the batteries and run/charge small items, instead of using the large built-in generator.

When doing this, the propane/120V refrigerator will not switch to electric - it stays on propane.

Could this be that the Norcold refrigerator's control board is sensitive to the little generator's output not having it's neutral bonded to it's ground ... as is being dicussed here?


Phil, 2005 E450 Itasca 324V Spirit

wnjj

Cornelius, Oregon

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Posted: 10/08/18 07:02pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

185EZ wrote:

There's continuity between all of them.
upper left on the 20A and lower right and left on 30A
same with upper right pins on 20A and continuity between lower right and left on 30A
also continuity between all grounds

Yes it's a misprint of 240V in the specs.
There isn't even a switch for it.
The old Durostar had the 240V switch and that was one of the reasons I wanted the EMS in case the switch was accidently turned on


This makes even less sense. Of course when I say "continuity" I'm assuming an ohm meter that's reading near 0 ohms, not a handful or more through a coil. I should have been more clear.

Also, without your bonding plug in there, the grounds should connect to nothing but each other and the ground lug.

185EZ

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Posted: 10/08/18 07:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

wnjj wrote:

185EZ wrote:

There's continuity between all of them.
upper left on the 20A and lower right and left on 30A
same with upper right pins on 20A and continuity between lower right and left on 30A
also continuity between all grounds

Yes it's a misprint of 240V in the specs.
There isn't even a switch for it.
The old Durostar had the 240V switch and that was one of the reasons I wanted the EMS in case the switch was accidently turned on


This makes even less sense. Of course when I say "continuity" I'm assuming an ohm meter that's reading near 0 ohms, not a handful or more through a coil. I should have been more clear.

Also, without your bonding plug in there, the grounds should connect to nothing but each other and the ground lug.

Correct
grounds connect to nothing but each other
I think I said it wrong.[emoticon]
I should have left the "ground" part out now that i look at it

road-runner

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Posted: 10/08/18 09:26pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

pnichols wrote:


Could this be that the Norcold refrigerator's control board is sensitive to the little generator's output not having it's neutral bonded to it's ground ... as is being dicussed here?
Anything is possible until it's tested. I'll just say I've had 2 dometic fridges that didn't care about the bond, and I've never noticed a report of any RV fridge caring about it.


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185EZ

Lake Havasu City, AZ

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Posted: 10/11/18 11:27am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

quick recap
The generator works fine plugged into the rv without the EMS
The EMS is plugged in by itself to the generator and won't let current through due to an open ground

Plugged in the outlet tester to the 15 amp and 30 amp outlets and it shows open ground same as with the EMS.
Plugged in the bonding plug to the 15 amp outlets and the tester says it's correct or good with 15 amp outlets
But the 30 amp rv outlet shows hot/neutral reverse and the EMS shows code reverse polarity

Optimistic Paranoid

East Nowhere NY

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Posted: 10/11/18 11:41am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I'd be opening that genny up and tracing the wiring to that 30 amp socket, personally. Something ain't right in there. You can't assume that just because something is new, that the factory didn't screw it up.

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