Trailer Life Magazine Open Roads Forum: Class A Motorhomes: Winterizing
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rayleepotter

Montana

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Posted: 10/09/18 08:14am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have a 2015 Winnebago Journey with a 360HP Cummins diesel pusher engine. I live in Montana and am putting my RV away for the winter in a storage lot where I can't plug it into power. I am going to remove the (6) 12 volt AGM house batteries and store them inside for the winter. My thought for the RV engine was to fill it with diesel, add diesel fuel stabilizer and run the engine as well as the generator and then remove the engine batteries and store them inside as well. Any other thoughts in things I should/shouldn't do for the diesel engine prior to leaving it unattended for the winter?

Thanks for your suggestions.


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2oldman

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Posted: 10/09/18 10:38am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

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DutchmenSport

Between Anderson, Pendleton, & Lapel, Indiana

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Posted: 10/09/18 01:45pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I have a diesel pick-up truck and someone advised when I got my first diesel to always keep the fuel tank as full as possible, especially in the winter months, even if using the vehicle all winter long. I asked why? They said, a full tank will reduce the possibility of water condensing on the inside of the fuel tank, and the very last thing you want happening to your engine is to have water in your diesel fuel.

Well, I certainly never understood how a tank with a closed cap can attract water vapor, if it didn't exist inside the tank to begin with. But, being much greener back then and he was one of those old timers that had been around the barn a few times, I always took his advise and never had water problems inside my diesel fuel tank. I keep mine full all the time. Ten gallons low and I fill up. Sitting in the garage for any length of time (like 2 or 3 days planned no driving), always filled full.

Needless to say, I've never experienced water in my fuel. So, I don't know if the old man was on-to-something, or full of BS. But, I've never had watery diesel fuel. So, who knows?


DutchmenSport

2019 Montana High Country 375FL Fifth Wheel
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cekkk

California

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Posted: 10/09/18 04:15pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

We used to live in the Rockies at very high altitude. Each time I filled up my diesel tank, I used Power Service additive. Never had a jelling problem. Often that truck would sit for a month or two without being fired up. And I kept the tank full. Tried to not let the fuel get too old.


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old guy

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Posted: 10/09/18 04:16pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

don't forget to drain the diesel filters since they get water in them also. you should drain them every now and then year round

1492

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Posted: 10/11/18 03:56pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

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Blaster Man

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Posted: 10/11/18 05:37pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

When putting a diesel in long term storage, a biocide should always be added.

https://www.westmarine.com/biobor


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wa8yxm

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Posted: 10/12/18 09:14am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Before you remove the batteries do two things.
1: Using red (and optionally black) paint or nail polish
Paint all the POSITIVE wires RED.. (if using black as well that's the negative side DO THIS before you disconnect. if you get a bit of paint on the batteries not a bad thing.

NOTE with six volt pairs ignore the battery to battery jumper. Take it with you when you move to storage.

Then PHOTOGRAPH the batteries as installed.

Once paint/nail polish dries

Disconnect NEGATIVE wires (if more than one tie them together with string)

Then the Positive (likewise tie if more than one) and insulate.. A styrofoam cup. may work well for this. or a sandwich bag (double bag) with a rubber band or bungee tie

Next: There are many myths about storing batteries on something like a garage floor.. DO not believe them.. Oh they were valid say 50-80 years ago but not today.> Still set the batteries on some scrap wood (plywood is good) the reason THE REAL REASON is often there is a little acid on the outside of the battery and this can damage whatever they sit on. SCRAP wood is very very very inexpensive (FREE) and thus the preferred surfact to destroy.

Six volt pairs.. Pair them (WHy you took the jumper(s) with you

Hook up a Battery tender or .. however many you need (Get one that can handle say 4 banks) and see you come spring.

My battery tender can do 20 amps.. or <2 amps (less than) Depending on the mode 70 if I need to give my car a jump.


Home is where I park it.
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DrewE

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Posted: 10/16/18 08:02am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If the batteries are fully charged, you can just disconnect them and leave them be for the winter; they will be fine in the cold (finer than in moderate temperatures, in fact). If they're stored inside, they should be on a maintenance charger of some sort, at least sporadically, to keep them charged.

Of course, if you're concerned about theft, removal is not a bad idea. It's hard for a miscreant to steal something that isn't there.





10forty2

North Carolina

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Posted: 10/16/18 02:23pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

DutchmenSport wrote:

.....Well, I certainly never understood how a tank with a closed cap can attract water vapor, if it didn't exist inside the tank to begin with......


Think about it this way....if the tank wasn't properly vented, it would collapse as the fuel pump pulled suction to get the fuel to the injectors......so since the tank is vented to prevent that from happening, it also allows atmospheric air, and consequently moisture, to enter as the air replaces the former liquid volume space, and hence the condensation that forms when the temperature varies. If the tank is full, there is little to no air space where moisture can enter through the vented cap.


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