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TNGW1500SE

Oliver Springs TN

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Posted: 06/13/19 03:36pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I'm replacing the caulking on my roof where it meets the gutter on my 2003 Itasca Sunova 30B. The roof is fiberglass and the gutter is aluminum. Removing the old calk is a pain. I'm using picks, razor blades and scotchbright pads. I'm going to need to re-caulk. What should I use? Also why wouldn't I use some Eturnabond (spelling???) tape over it as well after I caulk it? Any reason not to? I never want to do this again!!!

gbopp

The Keystone State

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Posted: 06/13/19 04:28pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

gbopp wrote:

It's not necessary to remove all the old caulk. Just get the loose stuff, clean well and apply the new caulk. Dicor self leveling works great on the horizontal areas, like you are planning.
Use a hair dryer or heat gun (on low) with a plastic scraper to remove the old caulk.

After you recaulk, I would apply a strip of Eternabond. Clean well before applying the Eternabond and use a roller. I like a steel roller, some like a wood roller.
Which ever one you chose, press hard and get a good contact. The Eternabond will last a long time.


Caulk under the Eternabond is what I use on our 96 Southwind. I think it's a good idea.
I messed this post up. [emoticon]

Lwiddis

Near DVNP, California

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Posted: 06/13/19 05:22pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Caulk should last almost forever when covered by Eternabond tape.


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23hotrodr

Iowa

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Posted: 06/14/19 04:55am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Winnebago uses caulk called "Manus Bond". You can get it from Winne, Or the proper caulk from a Winne dealer. It is not at all like Dicor. I do think a 2" wide strip installed over this seam keeps the UV light off this seam and greatly prolongs it's life. It does, however, make working on it a lot more difficult in the future, if ever necessary. There are seams at the front and rear of the roof panel that are caulked with this same "Manus Bond" and can be serviced in the same way.

Good Luck-- Mick


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Bruce Brown

Northern NY

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Posted: 06/14/19 06:52am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Winnebago used Eternabond to fix some Vistas and Sunstars, so why not?

Friends had a 2001 Winnie we did exactly what you're taking about doing. That one had a leak we never did find. We Eternabonded it and problem solved.

When I rebuilt our TT I used Eternabond on it to seal it up. I did, however, run a bead of Dicor down the edge of the Eternabond too.

Grab yourself one of these if you want to make the job easier. Having used one of these, I'll never be without one again.

[image]


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Mile High

CO

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Posted: 06/14/19 08:29am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

If it is not a full body paint, the tape is probably fine, especially if you have already used scotch brite pads on it.


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TNGW1500SE

Oliver Springs TN

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Posted: 06/14/19 12:11pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Found this post on another forum so I went to Home Depot and got this Henry brand adhesive to try. After that drys, I'll tape it too.

"According to this posting http://www.irv2.com/forums/f101/roof...tml#post937079 Henry 212 is a US-equivalent of their Canadian Stone Mason brand which Winnebago was using. It's available at Home Depot for about $8.50 a tube."

4x4van

California

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Posted: 06/14/19 12:46pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Dicor is a great sealant, but a lousy "glue". The roof edge seal on Winnebagos/Itascas need "glue", specifically:
Manus Bond 75AM


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mike brez

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Posted: 06/14/19 02:08pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

4x4van wrote:

Dicor is a great sealant, but a lousy "glue". The roof edge seal on Winnebagos/Itascas need "glue", specifically:
Manus Bond 75AM


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Horsedoc

Dixie --- N. Georgia

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Posted: 06/15/19 07:40am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

After a roof inspection (2000 Itasca Horizon) in Forest City several years ago the tech told me the roof needed re-caulking. They would do it for $400 or I could do it myself just for the price of the caulk. I chose the 'do it myself' route. I cleaned the roof and gutter with an alcohol based window cleaner and did the caulk job. Decided I did not want to ever go thru that again and bought a 4 inch wide roll of EBond tape. I split the tape and then cleaned again. Marked a straight line above the gutter edge on the roof. Let the factory edge of the tape follow that line and the width of the tape follow the roof line and lap onto the side of the gutter next to the body of the coach. This was the fiber tape and had to be painted with the UV resistant paint. We kept that coach until 2008 and the EBond was as strong as the day I put it on. Great stuff

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