Good Sam Club Open Roads Forum: Tech Issues: Slow/ No Cranking
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Dave H M

IL

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Posted: 10/26/19 07:41am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I seriously doubt that hooking up the starter after it ha been removed will prove anything.

theoldwizard1

SE MI

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Posted: 10/26/19 11:56am Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Rolling Condo wrote:

If you haven't. Definitely clean battery connections.

Not just the battery connections, but ALL connections between the battery and the starter ! This does mean removing the cable at the starter (AFTER removing the cable at the battery) and thoroughly cleanly all connections with a wire brush and/pr sand paper.

If you don't have a meter, buy one, even a Harbor Freight cheapy. With someone else behind the wheel, put your leads on the battery and have them start it. Record the lowest voltage. Repeat the same test when hot.

SidecarFlip

SE Michigan

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Posted: 10/26/19 12:17pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Rolling Condo wrote:

If you haven't. Definitely clean battery connections.


Better yet, clean ALL the connections, battery terminals, starter cable ends, starter solenoid terminals, all bright and shiny. It's a 2002, things get corroded and 12.6 volts static is an almost dead battery.


2015 Backpack SS1500
1997 Ford 7.3 OBS 4x4 CC LB

Chum lee

Albuquerque, NM

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Posted: 10/26/19 01:44pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

It is possible that your chassis battery can have a dead/weak cell when at rest (it still generates rated voltage) and fail the voltage/current test(s) horribly when you put a load on it.

What is the battery voltage when you crank the engine? It should stay above about 9.5 volts, when cranking, if the battery is fully charged and working properly. If it drops below that, consider having the battery load tested. Auto Zone (and others) will usually do this for you for free if you can get there.

How old is the battery? Is it the correct battery (size) for the application?

Of course, as others have mentioned, cleaning all the connections is the next step if the battery maintains voltage. Look for overheated/fried wires in the starting system.

Chum lee

colliehauler

Mc Pherson KS USA

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Posted: 10/26/19 03:24pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

covered wagon wrote:

Sometimes a starter can fail in such a way that even the jumper batteries can be depleted in short order. Best to replace the starter motor after double checking the condition of your batteries under a load test. That is the right way to test them.
Just ran into that with my old Diesel. I replaced both batteries and it still turned over very slowly. I replaced the starter and couldn't believe how fast it turned the motor over.

RJsfishin

Winston Or.

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Posted: 10/26/19 06:51pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Quote
and 12.6 volts static is an almost dead battery.
What a stupid statement ! It is actually nearly full charge


Rich

'01 31' Rexall Vision, Generac 5.5k, 1000 watt Honda, PD 9245 conv, 300 watts Solar, 150 watt inv, 2 Cos 6v batts, ammeters, led voltmeters all over the place, KD/sat, 2 Oly Cat heaters w/ ox, and towing a 2012 Liberty, Lowe bass boat, or a Kawi Mule.


Charley67

Fulton, MS

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Posted: 10/26/19 08:06pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Thanks for all the replies. I will check the cranking voltage. I haven’t removed all the connections and brushed them, but I have made sure they were tight, and I visually determined the wires were in good condition. It is a Ford Chassis with 68000.miles. After I do this final battery test the first of next week, if it checks out okay, I think I’ll put a new starter on.

ernie1

Sacramento,California,USA

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Posted: 10/27/19 12:46pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

Charley 67: I've been down your road many times and it is almost always a problem with the starter being shot or a low quality "life time" guaranteed rebuilt unit from an "xyzzy Auto Parts Store". This is, of course, assuming your battery isn't shot. Bite the bullet and buy a new quality built starter or a Ford factory rebuilt unit. Make sure , of course, that it's actually a Ford manufactured rebuilt and not some off branded thing that Ford sells.It's going to cost more but it'll be worth it.Just wanted to also say that you bought the rv used and the PO might have had starter issues previously and changed the starter and replaced it with some low quality unit.

Chum lee

Albuquerque, NM

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Posted: 10/27/19 02:13pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

ernie1 wrote:

Charley 67: I've been down your road many times and it is almost always a problem with the starter being shot or a low quality "life time" guaranteed rebuilt unit from an "xyzzy Auto Parts Store". This is, of course, assuming your battery isn't shot. Bite the bullet and buy a new quality built starter or a Ford factory rebuilt unit. Make sure, of course, that it's actually a Ford manufactured rebuilt and not some off branded thing that Ford sells. It's going to cost more but it'll be worth it. Just wanted to also say that you bought the rv used and the PO might have had starter issues previously and changed the starter and replaced it with some low quality unit.


Yep! I've seen this too many times. "Lifetime Guaranteed" whitebox rebuilt no name parts with a "lifetime" of a week or less. Oh sure, they'll gladly exchange the part for another piece of junk just like the last one. But, whose time and aggravation gets spent replacing the part, . . . . . again, and . . . . . . again. No thanks. The bitterness of poor quality lingers long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten.

Chum lee

Charley67

Fulton, MS

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Posted: 10/28/19 08:01pm Link  |  Quote  |  Print  |  Notify Moderator

I’m thinking I’ll turn on the ignition and get underneath and cross the starter terminals and see if still turns over slowly. I expect it will, but am I right that if it turns as it should, it will be something back up the line? Would I need to go to the Ford dealership to get a Ford starter?

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